Lexls

Yup, #24 is the intake air temp. sensor circuit...IAT. Basically, it's the air flow meter. Check to see that the MAF connector is connected. Your problem sounds like you've just not connected everything.....

Hey, I'm very happy to help you guys out :D I kinda figured that Kicker sub was not available anymore. The guy that submitted that tutorial did it a long time ago.

You can get a new sub but it will be super expensive. You can also get a used sub but I do not recommend that because they are almost always broken or ready to break. See the info here: http://www.lexls.com/subwoofer.html The 4 ohm sub in that tutorial will be better than an 8 ohm sub. Basically, you're just trying to install the closest match possible. An 8 ohm sub is not the closest match ;). Unfortunately 2 ohm subs are very rare so the 4 ohm sub is the ticket.

Yeah, #25 is usually a bad O2 sensor...but it could be a few other things. First, test the voltage on your main O2 sensors...the procedure is on my site ;) The O2 sensors don't last forever, you do need to replace them once in a while. My bet is that one or both of your main O2 sensors have gone out of spec.

Don't believe everything you read on forums....taking the needle out of its assembly is wrong. I did this a while ago so I may be missing some steps here.... -take off the power source board. -unscrew black lens cover, unclip, and remove -unclip and remove the side casing (the plastic ring that sits underneath the black lens.) -flip it over so you can see the main circuit board -unscrew the 6 brass screws that appear to hold the gas and temp gauges on. -unscrew the two screws on each side for the tach and speedo -unclip all harnesses for the speedo and tach and main circuit board -remove main circuit board At this point you should be able to pull off the cluster face, be careful. The gauges will still be attached to it. At this point I've forgotten. I think you just slide the speedo/tach assembly out of the cluster face. They come out from the back. Just don't pull the needle out of the needle assembly!!!

If you have two clusters, yeah, just combine working parts. You can take the needles out and put them in the other one.

I don't know why, but grills cost a TON of cash...here's the one you want (or very similar to it)....seems a bit overpriced though.......... http://www.l-tunedparts.com/product/?id=984

The instructions on my site should help you. The procedure is similar for 98-00 LS's. If you're going to buy pads, get the OEM ones. Front: These are different, 4 pistons. You can replace the pads without removing the caliper. However, you need to remove the pads and caliper to remove the rotor. The pads may be able to stay in the caliper assembly when it is removed. Rear: Pretty much exactly the same as first gen.

Maybe the latch accidentally got knocked shut....it happens on my dad's Acura sometimes.....try unlocking it again.... If that's not it we'll need some more info

I looked in my repair manual for you and cannot find specs on the compressor. You're not sure if it works right... Just hook it back up and see. If it works it works, if not you're car won't rise. No need to replace it if it's still good! You're not going to mess up the system if you do this. You'll either get air pressure or you won't, simple.

Does it make a clicking noise when you're driving?

Wow! I just watched a short video of a guy playing the super mario theme song on piano blindfolded! Check it out.. http://www.fhmus.com/gametv

It takes a lot of work to get to the water pump. As mentioned, the part is not that expensive. So it is replaced as a preventitive measure. The extra labor cost for doing the water pump in addition to the TB is extremely small.

The SBA has a great website with TONS of info: http://www.sba.gov/financing/index.html You're not gonna tell us what the business is? Don't worry, I won't buy it, I've already got a business! Hey man, you're practically the same age as me!

Time takes its toll and so do miles. Your pump probably just needs a rebuild as do all LS pumps at some time or another. I had a sound relating to my PS system a long time ago and it turned out that the rack was bad. Once the rack was replaced the sound was gone. The sound is most likely going to come from the pump but the problem could really be any of the parts in the system.

To get those 2 bulbs out you don't need to remove anything inside the trunk. 1) Pop the trunk, position it so you can see the 2 clear covers for the bulbs. 2) Unscrew the 4 visible screws. 3) Carefully pry the black plate off with clear covers and you'll see the bulbs. The plate is trapezoidal in shape. It looks like you take them out from the inside but that's not the case, the entire black plate comes off. Very simple to do.

He has a 91, it's a different cluster than yours...read my last post above. Different years, different clusters, different caps. Why is this so hard to understand? In the 90-92 I have found at least one cap that's way out of spec...tutorial coming.

thepartsbin.com has the pump for $178 :whistles:

Ok, well you got a normal reading for the fuel pump so that must be ok...something else then. You'll probably have to do what army said and check to see if you get fuel at the injector rails. Other possibilities... fuel pump resistor? Pressue regulator? Once you see if you're getting fuel you can rule more things out.

Why aren't you doing some of that yourself army? You sound well qualified to do some of that....plugs & wires, intake cleaning... Doing the rack is hard though since there are alignment issues. Man, JPI has some very reasonable labor rates, I wish I was close!

Welcome to the club guys! It's always good to see new members :). Check back often here because there's always lot's going on, you can learn a lot here.

Erik, You won't get a reading on the yellow cased wire in the trunk because when it's disconnected there is no power ;) . What you want to do is check for resistance, not voltage. Measure the resistance on the terminals of the yellow cased wire in the trunk. 0.2 - 3.0 ohms means the pump is good, above or below the repair manual says to replace the pump. Tell us what ya get! Sounds like the pump...

Replacing the whole air suspension with a Strutmasters kit will be the smart long run solution. Here's a great article & DIY install of the kit from Lextreme: http://www.lextreme.com/ascon.htm

A brand new LS of course :D

I've got some ebay ones and they were more like $40 plus shipping. Go with Lexuspros.com, good price and very nice people to work with.