Lexls

You're going to have to pull the cluster out and remove the black plastic cover lens. If the needles rest in the wrong position just gently push them down to where they need to be.

The '04 repair manual does show a timing belt. However, one of the steps says "remove timing chain or belt cover 2." They really need someone to proof read their docs!

The wires just branch off the huge bunch of wires behind the ignition cyliner. As you can see in my tutorial the wires for the bulb just go straight back. The end also should have a plastic holder for the bulb. It really shouldn't be too hard to find. There is a possibility that someone cut your wires, maybe an old battery drain.... To get access to all the wires you need to remove both panels directly below the steering wheel and the panel around the ignition.

Looks really good and sounds like a deal to me. Definitely get the 90k done, you don't want your timing belt to break! Other than that I would remove the dealer sign on the back of the car and enjoy the new car.

It certainly sounds like you need new speed sensors. Try checking for any trouble codes: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Yup, I agree. Your turn signal flasher probably just died. It's located way up behind the ignition and steering column.

Try adjusting the TPS: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/EFI/tps.html

I was referring to the parts from the codes, the #2 tranny solenoid and the speed sensor. I had both installed. Oh and this speed sensor is in the upper front area of the tranny on the drivers side. The exhaust goes really close to it but my mechanic was able to install the new one without removing the exhaust. Both speed sensors are the same part, as well as the solenoids in the tranny, just replace the correct one! This is what I paid for the parts, but it was well over a year ago so expect them to be more. Transmission Solenoid Assy --- 85420-50020 --- $158.90 OD Direct Clutch Speed Sensor --- 89411-50010 --- $50.69

Agreed, check that. Also check the the water temp sensor and water sender gage sensor. Those are really easy to replace and cost less than $100 for both sensors.

I've had those codes before, in fact, you can see them in my video tutorial on code reading: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html The problem symptom I had was that sometimes the car would hesitate and not shift into 3rd gear at the right time. It would just rev up and wouldn't shift until I let up on the gas and then accelerated again. At first this only happened once a month or so, but it got progressively worse to where it happened almost every day. I tried to diagnose the speed sensor but it read within spec. You need to drop the tranny oil pan to test the solenoid and I couldn't get the damn thing off :chairshot: . I decided to just replace both parts and have my mechanic install them since I couldn't get the pan off. I asked him to diagnose but he said it's tricky diagnosing intermittent problems. He recommended just replacing the parts since I had already brought them to him (bought online). Anyway, with the new parts and a tranny fluid change the problem is gone! Good luck!

I'm thinking this plug is the source of your mysterious error code. It doesn't really matter what this plug does, it needs to be plugged back in. Just search in that area until you find the place to plug in, obviously it cannot be far since the wire is short. Also, I see you have a non-US model, correct? Well, if so make sure you look up the code in the repair manual for the correct country. The US repair manual only has code for US model LS's. This may explain why the code is not listed in my US manual. BTW, I looked in my wiring diagrams and it's really hard to see where this plug goes. All I can say is that the other end has to be close and you may need to remove some covers to get a better view.

That's pretty much your only choice. Yeah, you will see it a little but do you want to be able to tow your boat or not? I say go for it and don't worry. Also, towing with an LS is just fine as long as you don't overdo it, a small boat will be fine. Your owners manual should have several pages on towing. I just installed a hitch on my '91 and love being able to tow my 4x8' utility trailer.

Mike, I would just change all the caps while you're at it. It doesn't take that long when you already have the cluster out. I did all the caps in my '91 and it fixed the fuel needle not going up all the way after a fill up problem. My lights were also starting to take a while to light up, especially in cold Minnesota winters. I have extra caps and info somewhere in my house but I would have to dig it all out and that might take a while... :whistles:

I would take some of the plastic cover panels off down there to get a better view of the wires and start to follow the wires. You should find the other ends of the wires somewhere closeby. It looks like this may have been due to a alarm install... Check out TIS info to find all the docs and color wiring diagrams for your car: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/repairmanual.html Also it would help to say what codes you have, then you could pinpoint what system wires are bad. http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/codereading.html

Ummm that would be great if I had an SC :whistles:

Thanks, I'm happy people are using it and learning some new things from my site. I've had them in for about 5 months now. I actually recently received the new sway bar bushing set from TM Engineering and will be installing that soon once it warms up here. By that time Daizen should have their rear control bushing kit out and I will install that one as well. The rear kit is what my car really needs cause the bushings are worn out.

I'm here, just been super busy :) As I said in my tutorial, the ride is more firm without clunks. Even my new UCA's clunked a bit going over big bumps, now that's not the case. I personally love the feel with the new bushings, but they may not be for everyone. It still rides like a Lexus, just not quite as "loose." I didn't get any squeeking until we got in the single digits here...or maybe it was below zero, not sure, but it was damn cold. Yes, I lubed them fully when installing so this may be the big drawback. Anyway, I'm not worrying about it because it's not that cold for very long here. I think most of you are in warmer climates than me so no big deal. It's hard to describe if you'll like the bushings or not, you just have to ride in a car with them installed or risk it. In the end the choice is pretty simple in my eyes though; if you want your suspension a few notches firmer then install the Daizen bushings. There are +'s and -'s to everything.

You said you changed the caps & rotors.......there are lots of wires that get disconnected for that job. I think you forgot to plug a connector back in. Recheck your work in that area. I forgot to plug one back in after doing the same job and no start. Plugged the last connection in and boom, it started.

Looks like it...they say on one of those sites that it's the flagship ;). I can actually see a LOT of similarities to the older LS's. I'm not sure why they changed the name...I thought I heard it was going to be called the LS600h. Thanks for adding those pics. It looks like they did a slight factory tail smoking just for me . Can't wait to see and read more about it! I love the look of this, it's modern and true to older gens at the same time. Kudos to the designers.

Those are aftermarket, the logo looks like a sticker almost.

Download the shop manuals from TIS, or buy the printed ones, it's VERY worth it to have them: http://www.lexls.com/tutorials/intro/repairmanual.html BTW, my 91 manual has instructions on front seat disassembly ;).

I find it a little hard to believe that they're going to totally dump the LS "look." For 16 years you could always tell an LS was an LS, you know what I mean? I'm going to wait and see official pics on the Lexus website. If it really doesn't bear any resemblance to the past LS generations I will be very disappointed.

Most likely it's coolant, the OEM stuff is straight red. Let us know what they tell ya.

I've got a 91 LS and my dad has a 97 RL so I know first hand. What the other guys have already said is very true. However, I think the RL looks good too...but the LS looks better IMO. Also the RL IS about the same size as a first gen LS. LS is a "floaty" drive, RL is more harsh. RL has more road noise. Random warning lights have always seemed to come on on the RL. LS seems more reliable to me. RL sometimes has strange things that need to be fixed. For example, a light is already burned out in the dash, and a window regulator has already broken. Oh, speaking of the dash, the LS is MUCH cooler! The RL does depreciate faster. Both are expensive to repair. That's all I can think of for now.

I'm getting ready to pull my PS pump for a rebuild and looked in the manual for removal instructions but it's extremely vague. What exactly do I need to do to remove it? I've looked at it and it seems like I need to drain out as much fluid in the reseviour, remove hoses, and then maybe I'll be able to see the bolts? I can't see them at all! If you've removed your pump please help with some tips or full instructions. Usually the manual is great but it's pretty bad for this. I'm looking to remove the least amount of items BTW.