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  1. 2 points
    You're welcome. The speedometer needle in my '98 sticks (rarely) depending on the ambient temperature. I have read elsewhere that the problem is the instrument lube that's used in the gauge heads get sticky with age. The only real fix is to remove the cluster and have an instrument repair shop deal with it. There is a chance that he gauge cluster might have a bad connection at the circuit board ribbon cables, etc.
  2. 2 points
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  3. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  4. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  5. 2 points
    I discovered this article today, thanks to a member at ClubLexus. I went and made a scan of my copy, thanks to his discovery. I don't suppose it would hurt to post it here:
  6. 2 points
    Thanks for the posting! We always like new information. Paul
  7. 2 points
    Hi Nathan. I apologize for not connecting with you sooner. I am always amazed at the depth of friendship and caring that can be built with someone you have never met nor never knew what they looked like. The LOC is a place where those who enjoy their hobby can find others who like swapping stories with like minded friends. Landar was a great part of the LOC and was a great source of Lexus info and technical help. Thank you for letting us share your journey. Paul
  8. 2 points
    Incredible shots Steve!!. Looks like a wonderful trip.
  9. 2 points
    Hey guys i made a small video on how to replace the plastic coolant tees that get brittle with age and can crack / leak / break / leave you stranded. Its a fairly straight forward process, everything is covered in the video from tools to parts. If you have any questions let me know. Parts needed for this job: (1) Gallon of coolant - PN# 00272-1LLAC-01 (2) Coolant Tees - PN# 87248-60460 Optional, highly recommended parts for this job: (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A220 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A210 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A190 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A180 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 87245-6A800 (1) Coolant hose - PN# 99556-20155
  10. 2 points
    I have NO connection with this automobile.... just showing others JDM RHD TOYOTA CELSIOR VIP SEDAN V8 LS400 JAPAN IMPORT TEXAS TITLE look: https://easttexas.craigslist.org/cto/6180839156.html
  11. 2 points
    I made the DIY because I couldn't find one specifically for the RX330. Lexus also apparently think no RX330 owner would ever change their own oil because they don't tell you how to locate the oil dilter and drain plug in the owner's manual. I hope others find this useful. Please comment. I have a 2004 RX330 and after 23,000 miles, I've decided I'm going to do minor maintenance myself. You'll need: - 5qts of 5w-30 oil - oil filter (see info below) - drain plug gasket (see info below) - 10mm socket wrench - 14mm socket wrench - oil catch container - oil filter wrench (I used the nylon strap which seems pretty versitile) - either jack stands or ramps - funnel - rags to soak up dripping oil Part numbers: Lexus parts: 90430-12031 - Gasket Oil Drain Plug 90915-YZZD1-01 - Oil Filter - 6 Cylinder Toyota equivalent: 904-3012028 or 3012031 drain plug gasket $1.04 089-2202011 oil filter $4.99 1) Jack up the front of your car on stands or use ramps. The RX330 weighs 3850 lbs so make sure your ramps/stands can handle it. You might be able to get away without raising it if you slide on the floor, but it's tight. 2) Pop your hood and unscrew off the oil cap. I stuck a yellow funnel in mine. Notice the yellow dip stick on the left. 3) Lexus put some cosmetic plastic panels to make the "less car savy" believe the car is a magic transportation pod with no ugly mechanical internals. You'll need to remove two of them to access the filter and drain plug. The orange highlight is the panel that hides the filter, and the purple arrow shows where the panel that hides the drain plug is. 4) Get under the car to look for the drain plug panel (purple arrow in above picture). The panel will look like this. Remove all the 10mm bolts. 5) With the panel removed, the drain plug is revealed. Get a 14mm socket wrench and loosen the bolt. Position your oil catch container and remove the bolt. Lexus engineers did good.. they designed the bolt angle so the oil shoots down instead of to the side. Very nice. Remove the drain plug bolt AND its gasket. If the gasket is not on the bolt, it's probably still stuck to the oil pan. Remove the gasket and discard. 6) As the oil is draining, work on removing the panel to the oil filter (orange). Remove all the 10mm bolts (red arrows). 7) There are two plastic clips (green arrows) also holding this panel on. Using a flathead screwdriver, carefully pry up the center part of the clip just a little. This will loosen the clip and the whole clip can be pulled out. 8) Pull off the panel. The other panels will be overlapped over it, but they flex enough to allow you to remove it. This is what it looks like without the panel. 9) After the oil is done draining, put the new gasket on the bolt and replace the bolt. Tighten the bolt for a good seal but don't over tighten. I don't know the official torque yet. Wipe up the oily bolt. UPDATE: I got the Lexus service info... Torque the drain plug to 33ft-lbs (45Nm, 459 kgf-cm) 10) With the panel off, you can now see the oil filter (orange) and a nice gift from the Lexus engineers: an oil catch (green). Loosen the filter, and residual oil will drip out. The oil catch will guide the dripping oil out the oilpan/drainplug panel so position your oil catch below the catch. 11) On the new filter, dab a layer of fresh oil on the O-ring (the rubber ring around the outer lip of the open end of the filter). Align the threads of the new filter and spin it by hand onto the engine where the old filter was. When it makes contact, tighten by hand another 3/4 turn. Don't over tighten. 12) Wipe up oil drips. For me, even though the catch was there, some oil still dripped all over the exhaust pipe and panels. Wipe this up. 13) Fill the engine with 5w-30 oil, 5 qts. A funnel is helpful here. 14) Replace oil cap. 15) Replace both plastic panels. 16) Shut hood and drive around the block. Park the car on level ground and wait 15 minutes. Check for leaks and oil level. I hope this is helpful to someone. ...
  12. 2 points
    We recently purchased a new 2017, Lexus RX350 and love it. Selling our original, one owner, 1994, LS400, with 88,000 miles. This superior designed and built, Generation 1 Lexus has been faithful to us as we have been faithful to it. We loved it and still love it. Its new owner will be blessed with full maintenance documentation and records from DAY ONE and any responses to any questions regarding its history will leave our hands with full disclosure of only "the truth". We would not hesitate to keep it and insure it with Hagerty Insurance as a "modern classic", BUT we do not have the room. If it should not sell to the right appreciative and discriminating buyer of this superior condition Lexus, we may have to make room! It is in truly excellent condition and will serve its new owner well. An ad is posted with www.ClassicCars.com. Go to the ad directly from Classic Car's front page by entering "979779" in the "cc-" prompt where indicated. Please do not hesitate to contact me with any further questions at woodman486@kc.rr.com.
  13. 2 points
  14. 1 point
    It looks like the crushed gasket of the filler hole caused the mess at the filler hole.
  15. 1 point
    This is the best online tutorial for your car that landar put together. Try to see what you have been missing. 98 1uz-fe Timing Belt And Water Pump Replacement How_to
  16. 1 point
    Greetings, I acquired my SC430 about 2 months ago, I felt the same way a little bit off. After driving the car more (weekends and good days) I have also learned to admire and enjoy it. It grows on you. I'm looking forward to Spring to drive with the top down, I'm sure I will enjoy it even more.
  17. 1 point
  18. 1 point
    I received a letter from Lexus saying they may reimburse people for this if they have painted their cars. My car had gotten so bad that I finally had it painted after I found a place to do it. They did it for $2500 and they painted my whole car from the molding up Looks so much better now. It was awful beforehand
  19. 1 point
    Like everyone before me, I hate the RFT's. I don't have to mention all the abysmal behavior that they cause for this nice car. The big difference with me, and most posts is that I didn't buy this car to win the Grand Prix. I want it to be luxurious first , and very sporty second. Any set of rims that has a 5 bolt holes with a 114.3 MM bolt pattern, and an offset of between 35 to 50 MM will work fine on your SC-430. There is plenty of room in the fender wells. So If you have leaking rims, or don't like the looks of the "Plates, " feel fee to buy just about anything you want with the above spec. 16" through 20" rims are just fine, and will not interfere with your brake calipers. Changing tire size and diameter does not, I repeat, does not adversly effect the handling or tracking of the vehicle. I choose to get not only a comfortable ride, but tires that last about four times as long as the RFT's. I chose the Michelin Primacy MXM4's. These are super quite, very long life, have extremely great handling, and they looks really stylish on the car. The size I got was the 245x45R17. The reason I chose this size is that they have the same tread width for traction, and the same diameter 25.7", so the speedometer stays accurate. Additionally the 45 side wall ratio gave a nicer smoother ride with superb handling. See my Member photo. I bought a set 17" X 7.5" X 40mm offset Velox Borzoi rims from Costco for under five hundered dollars, and the tires under eight hundred dollars. The best money I ever spent on the car! I am just delighted with this choice and strongly recomnd this to anyone who is tired of their SC-430 riding like a truck!
  20. 1 point
    https://lexusenthusiast.com/2016/04/21/sponsor-lexus-rc-f-sport-on-20-inch-vossen-vf-6-wheels/
  21. 1 point
    I have a certified 2016 es300h and updated the nav after purchase bc the nav was already 3+ years old. I bought the chip from dealer with discount and the upgraded myself. The upgrade is started in the map menu, then follow the screen instructions very easy. 10 minotes and done
  22. 1 point
    Hi Lydia, thank you for letting me know! I ended up not getting the car as it turned out to have very rusty brakes and a salvage title. I did get a 2010 Lexus RX 350 though. ( : Thanks again! -Amy
  23. 1 point
    Welcome to the Lexus Owners Club Charles! Pearl white is one of my fave colors.
  24. 1 point
    I would highly suggest replacing the tires so they're all the same. Tires can have a big affect on the ride. Having 3 different brands with 3 different tread patterns is not good and is certainly contributing/causing the problem. Yes, the LX470 is a truck and won't ride like a sedan, but it shouldn't "beat you to death." Good luck!
  25. 1 point
    See if this one works Swigzy Car Cup Holder Expander Adapter with Adjustable Base - Rubber Tabs Securely Hold Large Water Bottles
  26. 1 point
    https://lexusenthusiast.com/2018/10/25/lexus-named-most-reliable-brand-in-annual-co Consumer Reports says no to MB and BMW!!! Paul
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    There is an initialization procedure for those trunks, I can try to find it for you if you'd like, it may be in your owners manual.
  29. 1 point
    I sold my nearly cosmetically and mechanically perfect 2000 LS400 Platinum Series "SF" (heated seats, originally had Nakamichi audio) in Spring, 2014 for $4999. It was at just under 180,000 miles and virtually flawless inside and out - always garaged. The car looked like it just rolled off the showroom floor. The $4999 included flawless chrome OEM Platinum wheels and extra aftermarket wheels with winter tires. All eight tires were in excellent condition. Professionally maintained with full documentation. Synthetic engine oil changes every 5,000 mlles and transmission/differential fluid changes every 30,000 miles. The Nakamichi head unit had been professionally replaced with a modern aftermarket screen based in-dash system with Bluetooth handsfree phone and A2DP wireless audio steaming, iPod control, Pandora interface and many other features including provision for satellite radio and backup camera. The attached photo was taken a few days before I sold the car. What is yours like?
  30. 1 point
    Ooo. Not fun, and yes, it sounds like there's air trapped there in the throttle body and upper hose connection. I'd start with a pair of locking pliers ("Vise-Grip") on the outside of the filler bolt head and see if you can get it off that way. Once there, fill the cooling system from that opening and that should take care of your air bubble/overheat issues. From what I could look up on Lexus parts sites (the diagrams aren't the easiest to read), so it looks like that filler bolt part number should be 90341-20012, and the washer/gasket below that should be 90430-20017. Hope this helps. Best, Paul
  31. 1 point
    The optional LED headlamps of the 2013 GS450h aren't necessarily better than the HID headlamps you have now. As the IIHS has found in their tests, there is no correlation between light source type (halogen, HID, LED) and performance: http://www.iihs.org/iihs/ratings The IIHS found that optional headlight systems were often worse that the standard systems. IMO, your best move is simply to verify that your headlamps are working correctly and aimed properly. Modern headlamps have become too complex to muck with - not like the old days of standard headlamp unit sizes in North America when one could slap a set of E-code Cibie or Hella units into a car and get a vast improvement. I did that on countless vehicles. I wish the IIHS would test the headlights of all vehicles. I'm getting tired of blindly (pun intended) buying vehicles with HID and LED headlights and just hoping they will be good.
  32. 1 point
    Update with a happy ending... So I posted this thread on many lexus blogs and several people responded that I should consider checking all the fuses. One thread suggested looking at the 30 amp AN1 fuse under the big cover in the engine area. That exact fuse was dead. I researched the circuit for that fuse and it controls the ignition including the spark plug coil. I replaced the AN1 fuse and the GX started right up but died in seconds and the fuse was blown again. It also sounded like I had a leaking exhaust manifold on the passenger side. I immediately noticed the spark plug #2 from the firewall on passenger side was coated in soot. I removed the 10mm bolt and pulled on the coil assembly and the top coil box broke away from the coil shaft connected with a tail of copper wire. I pulled on the wire and the rest of the coil shaft assembly came out including the spark plug. Thats right, the spark plug was not screwed in to the head. I replaced the coil pack with a NAPA part, added a new iridium plug, added another 30 amp fuse and it started right up and remained running. This fix ended up taking about 15 minutes and under $100, a big win win. But how in the hell did that plug get so loose. The odor I smelled was the exhaust melting the silicone boot and plastic housing. I ran codes and it came back as a spark plug coil. How awesome is it that I know not a lot about cars and a few hours on the internet and helpful suggestions from people all over got me back on the road - THANKS to all who helped.
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    I just had the same type of issue with our 2001 LS430, i needed to replace the wiring harness for the knock sensors also as there were signs of dry rot and wiring exposed causing additional electrical current draw. Hope that it may help your problem.
  35. 1 point
    Thanks for your response. My husband and I have also seen many on the street. I will begin taking pictures as well.
  36. 1 point
    Hi Dan....welcome to the Club The best bet is to have mooch through the posts on here as I'm sure someone will have had the same problems and there will be many solutions to them. Look forward to seeing a piccy of the IS Cheers, Trevor
  37. 1 point
    This is still speculation, but the the number of pieces needed to make it happen are getting fewer and fewer. This would make a major change in the ES and I for one immediately go to what would my ES be worth if this becomes a reality. This is one of those issues that can run rampant within the auto world and also the international financial markets. With the ES now being made in Kentucky, Lexus could potentially create a more feature rich ES and not have to move changes back and forth across the Pacific. Paul What do you think? https://lexusenthusiast.com/2017/05/01/next-generation-lexus-es-to-replace-the-gs-as-global-mid-size-seda
  38. 1 point
    Well, I strongly doubt your problem is your speakers. Many Lexus cars have more miles than yours and have good, working speakers. With your speaker net work just failing at random it has to be something in the head unit or amplifier. Don't put any more money into speakers. Check with you local Lexus dealer and see if they can at least diagnosis the problem and what it will cost. The sub speaker is 8" inches, and the door speakers are 41/2" inches. The exact size of each speaker can change from model year, and interior lay out. If your IS has the small round tweeter on the top of the door, are 1"inch . Paul
  39. 1 point
    To get access to the engine ECU -- Inside the car, passenger side: 1) Remove the trim kick panel below the lower dashboard (it pops off--clipped into place; either leave in place or disconnect the wiring to the footwell light). 2) Remove the glovebox: First, disconnect the left-hand glove box door check, then using a screwdriver, press in then remove the clips inside the glovebox; pop out the airbag sensor on the LH side of the glovebox. Carefully pry out the glovebox, leaving the glovebox door in place, slipping the airbag sensor out of the glovebox... leave that connected. 3) Unbolt the lower dash pad (five bolts w/ 10mm heads--two at top, three on the bottom). Pull it down/off. On '93-94s, the engine ECU is attached to the back of this. 10mm socket to remove the ECU from the lower dash pad. Otherwise, Yamae's posts on the CL forum (see Trey's link above) will show you where the ECU is placed on the earlier cars. Installation is the reverse, blah, blah, blah. I've had good luck with ECU capacitor replacement kits from the usual online auction sources (there are sellers who have put together kits from Digikey/Mouser, which is the way I went) to replace capacitors in my LS' ECU last summer, which resolved running issues I had at that time. Note that replacing capacitors does require some skill in electronics soldering and repair; don't attempt it if you don't have those skills. Paul
  40. 1 point
    Was it super expensive to have it repainted? I love the car and would love to have it painted but I do think Lexus deserves the free advertising of me driving the car around everyday. Mine has always been babied and taken very good care of. I don't have 1 ding. I plan to keep it as long as it will go. It is definitely my last Lexus though.
  41. 1 point
    Hi Tim and Welcome! Year after year, Lexus owners have discussed the whys and wherefores are the best fuel grades for their model Lexus. In addition, as updated models come out, Lexus has changed some engines to run on different octane blends. Around 2010 several engines were modified to accept 87 octane to 91 octane as well. In my 2010 ES350 it was designed to use 87 or 91 octane. Given this ongoing puzzle of fuel choices I recommend using what the Owners Manual recommends. This helps protect you from any problems that could come from a fuel choice and will give you the best engine performance. Paul
  42. 1 point
    Anything can break at any time. If you happen to be Irish, that means often.
  43. 1 point
    Assume you have AWD since you said 17 (RWD usually come with 18 stock) OEM 17 should be 17x8 +45, with 225/45R17 square all around The 2IS body is really designed for a stagger setup, so the rear fender is much more aggressive than the front I am currently running 18x8.75 +35 with 225/40R18, front is pretty flush but rear is still tucked in (because of statement above) Future plans to go 18x9 +25 to +30 ish, with either 225/40R18 or possibly try to fit 235/40R18 Key is to stay within 3% of total diameter from stock tire size Also, rule of thumb when upsizing wheel diameter is to have tires down by 5% of width Example, in my case Stock = 225/45R17 1 UP = 225/40R18 2 UP = 225/35R19 3 UP = 225/30R20 ***with exceptions for specific cases where you need to go narrower (215, etc.) in order to fit and prevent rubbing A better upgrade from 225/45R17 would be 255/35/R18 (or 255/30R19)...which is closer to stock diameter than 225/40R18 (or 225/35R19)...........however it's hard to fit 255/35R18 or 255/30R19 in the front depending on suspension height and wheel offset Anyways, for an AWD, 18x8.5 19x8.5 18x9 19x9 square setups are the norm Many go for stagger setups on the AWD 2IS as well keeping front and rear rolling diameter within 1%, however this is done at your own discretion (best combinations are 235/35R19 front with 275/30R19 rear, or 225/35R19 front with 265/30R19 rear) EDIT: in regards to bigger/heavier wheels slowing you down Yes heavier wheels not only slow you down due to added weight, but also puts more stress on suspension components due to added unsprung weight. That's why most people when changing wheels go for lighter wheels. This can be offset by added tire weight, but depending on combination most end up with a net loss in weight (which is a good thing). Lowering = lower center of gravity = less body roll and better handling Wider (both width and offset wise) = more stability and better handling But of course there are downsides such as alignment issues which can be corrected
  44. 1 point
    I own a 1995 Lexus ES 300 with 110,000 miles and am located in Northern New Jersey. Recently I replaced all six spark plugs and all six plastic coil connector clips, which is the first time that these items have been replaced on my car. I used NGK OEM Iridium spark plugs from Autozone and OEM connector clips. After finishing the job, the car started OK the first few times but ran extremely rough and would not rev beyond about 3,000 RPM. After successfully starting it 3-4 times, it now will not start up at all. I have rechecked all of my electrical connectors and air hose connections, reset the on-board computer by unpligging the battery, and found no error codes on my OBD II reader. Wouild one bad plug/coil/connecotor set prevent the car from starting up? If so, is there any easy way to diagnose which plug/coil pair is causing my issue? If dirt or grease had accidentally gotten into my air intake manfold or throttle housing, could that be causing my start-up and rough engine issue? Any suggestions on how to further troublseshoot and isolate my exact problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your guidance!
  45. 1 point
    I think it is pretty cheap when a corporation such as Toyota stops furnishing repair manuals. Once again big corporations don't care about us little people
  46. 1 point
    Lexus replacement batteries are interstate . A battery installed at the dealer have a 7 year pro rated replacement warranty. A LS 460 does not have a radio code. There are many systems on a LS460 that may need to be re- initialized upon battery replacement . A LS 460 is fastenating technology .
  47. 1 point
    For anyone looking at this thread Metra finally made a dash kit. They have wiring harnesses as well. I will Post a link to the site so you can get the product numbers. I would recommend just typing in the numbers and find the parts on Amazon or Sonicelectronics. They are much cheaper there than at a best buy or retail store. If the link doesn't work just go to Metraonline.com Good Luck! Hope this helps http://metraonline.com/vfg
  48. 1 point
    2006 ES330 Certified pre-owned $24000.00 roughly insurance? I don't now how much? repairs? Where do I begin! I've had several Lexus cars over the years. What I truly USED to like was the fact I could simply trust the dealer shop, and generally, the shop was never necessary anyway! All that changed with the ES330. So why did I move to the 330 from LS models? Well....downsizing is one answer, and besides I liked the styling of the ES over the LS at that time. We had always had such great results wth pre-owned (well, twice before this one) and the service was...wonderful! The ES has turned out to be one of the worst quality cars I have ever owned. And I've even owned Chevrolet so that should set the standard? The car has numerous rattles inside the cockpit. Not all from the same place, not consistent from any one place, but always somewhere, there is a rattle! The transmission hunts for the gear it likes at various times.....disconcerting to say the least. Heat register coves pop off routinely. We put the back in place, a few weeks later they pop off again. The windshield wiper that senses rain? ^&*&$##* !!! It seems to randomly decide when, and if, it wants the windshield cleared. Often times, just pulling into the garage from a rainless night, it decides to clean the windows? Honestly, it's dangerous at times! Now....the service. Well, I suspect this is simply a case of getting too big and not being able to keep up, or assumning all Lexus owners don't really care what it costs? I was informed the front end needed rebuilding. Loose, worn ball joints, etc. I got the quote from them......went to another shop I've done a lot with in the past and they looked, agreed the parts could be replaced, and quoted about half the price. I had them do it of course. For the next several visits to Lexus, I was informed the front end was getting worse? On the third visit, I advised the service rep. that I had already had the parts replaced at another venue. No apology.....no explaination either. I was just informed the stearing hoses are leaking and need replacing......64,000 miles? I guess I don't expect that from Lexus. New brakes were needed at 35,000 miles......again sort of a surprise! If these things really are wearing that fast, maybe I don't need to consider Lexus for the future. Maybe I'm just a bit miffed at this point because I though what one bought with a Lexus was quality, and assurance of a non-hassle interaction with the company. What do you think Lexus? David
  49. 1 point
    It seems that I might have a similar problem. At speeds of 120/130 km/h the engine seems to hold back when you lift off the gas pedal and than want to accelerate again. You have to really punch it to pick up speed again. Same thing happened on a roundabout at 20/30 km/h when it had to be really kicked to get some speed again. But it happens only every now and then. Now I want to check the pedal position sensor and the connector / multiplug as described in this topic. Can anyone point it out to me (pictures??) because my wife has to look at it since I'm in a wheelchair for the moment. Michel
  50. 1 point
    Hi - just wanted to thank blue06gs for the great bypass for dvd and dialing. only took bout an hour goin slow and it works absolutely perfect. no one should be hesistant to try this bypass. good luck and thanks!



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