Toysrme

dcfish I'm just proud people are putting transmission coolers on LoL!

I wasn't knocking you, just jumping into the end of the convorsation. I never said a filter will restrict the system. I suggested using a stacked plate or racing pipe style coolers over using a tube and fin cooler. They both (tube and fin / stacked plate) have better heat transfer, better heat dissipation, and less pressure drop through the cooler.

Add an aux hayden (stacked plate), or a racing pipe type cooler if you're going to go to the trouble of installing an Aux filter. Stay away from tube & fin tho. They suck at cooling, and hav less flow to boot. :\

Honestly, it doesn't particularly matter. WD-40 will work if you have it, carb cleaner is mostly the same thing. Most of the actual cleaning is done by hand with a brush or a rag. isntead of dissolving stuff. So anything petrolium based, or a solvent will work well.

Use K&N if you want, or anyone else for that matter. None of them offer any horsepower to gain, nor any damaged caused by less filtration, as long as there is filtration. The point of the filter is to keep large, damaging objects from falling into the engine. If you think that small particles damage engines, then the EGR, and blow-by recirculation (head breather & PCV valve) are the primary culprit that must be delt with. Thousands of times more damaging crap from the EGR flows the the system than the intake. (Unless you're just pouring stuff into it LoL!) You can't buy chips, or have the ECU re-tuned currently. However you can install piggybacks like an SMT, E-Manage, SAFC, or if you are not interested in doing, or tuning yourself, have a Unichip installed. Easy 10hp on any stock Toyota ECU from simple leaning

1mz-fe's are a two part oil pan. Steel bottom, aluminum upper. How much have you taken out? You need to have the Y-pipe out, or out of the way. You have to take the flywheel cover off (two bolts). Push & pry the pan off enouhg to get a flat head screwdriver in the gasket material, then pry the steel pan off. When you take it off clean the oil pick up off. Take some pics in the bottom of the engine while your're in there. Let's see the 1mz-fe rods. ;) Ya may need a light under there to get the rods clearly. (You can zoom in on an angled one to see it).

smasood Everyone else will tell you to use Iridium plugs. I tell you to use what the factory uses. Which is the cheapest NGK, or Denso plug you can buy. NGK 6779's can be found for 1-1.50 on sale at most autoparts stores. The simple fact is with the horrible carbon buildup from EGR, you're not going to want to leave them in for 100,000 miles. Platnium plugs always claim to go for 60,000 miles+, then again the cheap NGK's will easily last the same amount of time. So I vote no iridiums unless you just like using over expencive parts, and it makes you feel warm and fuzzy! :D Change the distributor cap, and check the ignition timing. Factory timing is 10*btdc. From memory to get the upper intake manifold off, you need to: 1) disconnect the air box hose from the throttlebody 2) disconnect the throttle cable 3) disconnect the transmission kick-down cable (next to throttle cable) 4) reach behind the intake and remove the EGR pipe (12mm) 5) Remove the coolant line that goes in to the throttlebody (that's the in) 6) Remove the coolant line comming out of the EGR pipe (that's the out) 7) Remove the throttle position sensor cable 8) Remove the Idle Control Valve (ICV) hose (from airbox) and electrical connector 9) Remove brake booster vacuum hose 10) Remove ACIS vacuum actuator hose 11) Unbolt the cold-start injector on the passanger side of the upper intake (10mm) and swivel it out of the way Lastly Remove two 14mm nuts & the two 8mm allen bolts Slowly start lifting the upper intake off the engine. That way if you forget anything (or I did) nothing will be damaged. If you don't have emessions, you can completely remove EGR equipment from the intake & seal the holes (small sheet of wood & sheetmetal, with some RTV sealant does well if you don't have a block of metal). You can also take the EGR pipe off the manifold. The manifold threads are some JIC fitting type, but if you go get a 5/8" brass plumbing cap, that will thread. If you go a few turns - enough to crush the threads together, it will seal the pipe. (Don't keep going, obviously the iron pipe will destroy the brass threads!) While the intake is off, you should throughly clean the inside of it. That'll gain lost horsepower back... You can also remove the throttle body (two bolts two nuts, 12mm I do believe) and take a dremel, or an air grinder and knife edge the top / bottom chamber split right behind the throttlebody. Anyways. =) The intake is easy to take off once you've done it. It doesn't take 5 min if you don't have to deal with the EGR. (It's unlikely you can pass emessions testing without EGR.)

Obviously no good will come from it. You can either take the upper intake and rear valve cover off to get to it, or leave it in there. If you leave it in there it'll do one of the following: stay where it's at go down the return and make it into the pan go through an oil pan return and plug it If it makes it's way *to* the pan, it'll stay there until someone takes the pan off. If it plugs a passage... Obviously you're SOL, and if it fell into a creavase, it'll stay where it's at until someone has to replace a head gasket, or rear valve cover gasket. There is so little oil flow through the heads to begin with, the parts are more than likely to simply never move. if they're on a cam, obviously the cams will throw them out of the way heh. Don't worry. Tho I didn't break mine (I gutted mine when I re-built the engine). I took a poll of 3vz-fe Camry owners I chat with. 2 of them did the same thing you did. A third shattered the entire thing. All of it, that includes the spring, fell into the head. :rollseyes: None of them bothered to dig anything out. The "most likely" scenerio is it's laying in a crevase all ready, or it will be as soon as the engine turns over when you crank it. If you want help talking the valve covers off, I'll help ya. If you want to leave it in there, go for it. Just remember it's your car. Honestly, if it were mine and that car was on it's original head gaskets, I would leave it.

See white plug I painted over on the rear head? That's the PCV valve. It connects to the bottom of the upper intake air chamber by a short piece of hose. They're notoriously hard to pull out.

creamyy Replace the PVC valve. Cheap part, and if it's clogged, oil can blow into rear combustions chambers from the pressure until it warms up and seals. (or jsut blow by all the time heh) I'm thinking probably worn valve stem seals. Mine were starting to leak when my head gasket blew. ('93 @ 103-104,000m) Such a silly part on all cars. They're about $2.50 a pack of 12, yet you have to take the valvetrain a part to get to them hahahaha. Ahhhhh. but start on the PCV valve.

Clean the Idle Control Valve ICV. It'll be plugged with carbon.

It sucks. Buy Lexol online, or find the two part Meguiars. (Cleaner / aloe) It works very well. Best you'll find at most places. The only thing descent I've ever used from Blue Magic is their clay. FYI Almost every Toyota, or Lexus dealer stocks Lexol. ;) Have a direct line to the bank tho, 'cause last time I checked at a Toyota dealer, it was about $8-$10 higher than what it costs to buy and ship online. (Per gallon) Price premiums rule! LoL!

Don't worry about stock bolts stripping. The bock is Iron, and the bolts are not. ;) I found (I did testing LoL!) It's highly unlikely to damage the threads in the head before the stock stretch bolts simply split in half. Before you weld a socket to it (I just welded a wrench to something to get it off, LoL! Welding is fun!) See if the next smallest (Or a half size if you're just a lucky & have them) socket will begin to fit. Also try an equivalent SAE size. What you do is take a hammer, and beat the son of a b*tch on. Most of the time any socket that is at least descent can be beaten onto these types of M10 harness stuff a few times before it breaks. That's what the lifetime no questions asked warrantees is for. =) Email is sent.

Depends which Sensa track they put on. From what I remember there are three softness levels. Two is what you use to replace Caddy and Lincoln struts. Honestly... It won't make a big change from stock, but I would buy new kyb struts, or slip the recharge cartridges in (coast the same) before putting those struts in. Not to say anything against Monroe, I had the stiffer ones in my Corolla years ago that did pretty good. I just think since you're retaining a stock ride, the KYB was designed for it. They allow the "luxury float", but maintain some control while doing that.

Start out polite, but be firm and mean if you have to. If it's bad, walk off and park your car sideways in front of their service bays, then walk inside to get a coke and a snack. They'll come to you wanting it moved. You came to them wanting to fix a factory F'up. Ask him if he see's the irony in the above loudly enough so that everyone else in the snack/sitting room hears you. Dealers/mamangers don't like people arguing infront of customers (when it's obvious they are wrong) because many of them make the majority of their money on repairs. If you look in the last week or two I've been posting. Things like spark plugs, and head gasket's have come up a few times. There is a reason why you guys keep getting quoted $2000-$2500 to replace head gaskets, while I'm telling you any shop can do it for $1250 if they felt like it, and you're getting ripped off if it's more than $1500. Good luck with it man. They should make it legal to just play bumper cars in the lot when dealers are like that. It's never just one brand, or one dealer either. *Every* dealer is like that. All that it depends on is what they get told the bottom line for the week/month/year is to how anal retentive they are.

What you said. Lexhol & vynol are the shiznits. I buy all three by the gallon! :D Normally the leather get's dirty (oil/grease/dirt buildup) and as the leather wears and cracks, it embeds itself. With some work you can get the stain out, but worn leather is just that. Worn leather. blake918 great trick with the magic erase market. One of my friends showed me that a week ago and my jaw dropped! It's the same thing with maintenance. Not to offend anyone, but the worst car maintainers are the ones with luxury brands. They feel elite status because the own them, yet expect to either trade them before any maintenance is done, or they simply EXPECT !Removed! not to hit the fan because it's a "special" car. That upsets me greatly. If you don't do the required maintenance, it's not GOING to last. The simple fact, is if you always did everything the OEM's says, on time, and to the full extent instead of half-assing it, with the parts they use from the factory, OR equivalent parts. They would all last 1,000,000 miles on the original engine, and 500,000 miles on the original transmission. Yes, Toyota few big cars (all Camry, Corolla, Celica based platforms) have become that good. Do they last 300,000 miles? Hell no. Who's fault is it? Bad owners, and bad mechanics servicing them. Who remembers that back in the day is was awsome that a car ran 100,000 miles with even large amounts of maintenance done? Who has the right to complain when their fairly modern Toyota based car goes 100,000-150,000 miles without doing the specified maintenance done before random things start breaking? I'm not saying anyone here falls into that category. What I'm saying is what I have found to be typical attitude, and typical situation over the last few years of really wrenching on things. At least give cheap Yugo people credit... Being their only transportation, most get maintenance done on time. (assuming the POS's don't fall a part first, and that it's not a beater!)

If you did any research you would ask us where do you get supplies, not how to install one. Buy Maximum Boost by Corcky Bell on ebay. It's $5. When you're done, resell it for $5. It's great you say you have a vette with a s/c 350. Saying that "nos doesn't count" is... I can't say that on this forum. How you add power has no bearing on anything. The simple fact that you have power is all that counts. For the record, last time I checked... You shoot Nitrous Oxide into the engine. That would be n2o. I'm sorry.... NOS & NAWZ only exist in Fast and Furious where you can upshift twelve times in a row, and still only being going 65mph down the road. AFA the S/C belts snapping: 1) Check the alignment of the system 2) Check the supercharger spins freely, and has adequate oil supply (most are self contained) 3) Buy the correct size belt 4) Get the correct tension on the belt / system If you want to know what goes into installing a turbocharger on a '94 1mz-fe. Join Toyota Nation, and search for 1mz Turbo. You want to read every post Tony the Tiger ever made. Original Thread Update thread After the transmission lost second, and third gears, and the engine had melted one piston ring, and one piston: Rebuild update-1 Rebuild Update-2 (huge T66) Another update Making a new upper intake air chamber Latest update, found old videos His homepage is HERE McElligott lives in the greater Chicago area. Tony lives in Toronto, Canada.

I thinks it's not very touchy system. Simply saying your previous engines will run with only 60% coolant and bad components doesn't say much for maintinance history. The simple fact is that no Toyota v6 has overheating problems (Minus a non overheating related blown head gasket) are faults of the owners. Not the engines. If you maintain them, every aspect of them (minus the weak head gaskets during that time frame) will last indefiantely. Fresh fluid every year and the cooling systems will last 200-300,000. You'll need a new thermostat along the way, but the pumps, radiators and hoses will survive fine on fresh fluid. I completely agree. The hydraulic system sucks because it takes power to drive. Most mechanics hate this style system. They are so dumb, they will stick their hand IN THE FAN to see how strong the motor is. *Obviously* you can stop it with a single finger... That's ok, none of us are perfect, obviously mechanics are not! (Even Toyota ASE mechanics don't pick up on this. I had to demonstrate it to one a few weeks back) They removed the radiator cap and overflow send->return on the 1mz-fe. Compair them, they're completely different. I know, I just went throuh that problem with a habitually overheating 3vz-fe. Only to find out the original mechanic replaced the 3vz-fe radiator with an OEM '94 1mz-fe radiator. Lowering the boiling temperature 70*F, and not having an overflow return (If a 3vz-fe is overheating, it'll blow the pressure into the over-flow tank, and will suck coolant back into the radiator so there is no air trapped in the system, When 1mz-fe's overheat they blow the coolant out, but air is trapped in the system.) I troubleshot a 1mz-fe last week who's waterpump was completely corroded off. (Pay attention and you'll see why this is actually common by the end) The guy had the radiator replaced when the plastic top sprang a pin-hole leak (high pressure + low flow + nasty corrotion from bad fluid = bad). The leaking coolant was fixed, but the car was still overheating. Normally you would ask why? Because the water pump was corroded off! Most of the time, if you have left old fluid in long enough to blow the stock radiators, there will be some degree of pump damage. (Maybe that's why Toyota has always used plastic radiators.) ^ That's how the pumps get damaged. That is always why any *good* Toyota mechanic will tell you when the radiator is replaced, the pump may or may not be shot also. For refferance, anytime any of your hear about a radiator blowing, or leaking. The entire system needs to be flushed for a long time to clear the corrotion & sludge, and the pressure needs to be tested when the enigne is warmed up to insure the pump is not damaged. (VZ-FE owners don't fret because you're coolant is not comming clean... The blocks are iron, and the water will ALWAYS come out orange/rusty looking LoL!) You're pretty much dead on tho. If people would replace the water pump on schedule, and keep fresh coolant in the system (drain the radiator every year, or flush the system every other) You'll simply never have a cooling problem. I recommend to add in the perscribed amount of Redline's Water Wetter. Not just for the added cooling performance, but because it's inhibitor package is far superior to any type of anti-freeze, in both lifespan, and pure protection.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...showtopic=20854 Make sure it's about the middle of the adjustment.

The cooling system is not delicate if the owner takes proper maintenance. The system is no worse than any other good cooling system. Many times the problem happens from correction, and sludge buildup. Old fluid is bad to clog the radiator, and corrode the pump fins. Youa re very correct that the hydraulic fan system doesn't wear out (itself) Typically the problems that arise with it are: 1) burned fuse 2) the connector from the Cooling fan ECU to the Cooling fan clutch (what controls it's high-low speed) is not plugged in. 3) something shorted and destroyed the cooling fan ECU ($5 part in a junkyard) It can be checked by jumping E1 and OP1. If the fan does not go into high speed, there is a cooling fan problem. The water pumps last a very long time, if you keep good fluid in them and skip their replacement every other timing belt change. Normally that is not worth it, they only cost $75 with no extra labor charge. You can also easily corrode the fins off one (loosing pressure) by having poor fluid in them. If it occurs more than once, it is a great idea to have the pressure tested to make sure the pump is OK. A common problem with fluid boiling over is worn pressure caps. That is common to all cars, not just that particular engine. Also the reason why you can't use a 1mz-fe radiator on a 3vz-fe. The 3vz-fe has the over-flow returns, and a pressure cap. A pressure cap will raise the temperature before the coolant boils 40-70*F. If one is malfunctioning, or worn, it will cause many such problems. You are correct that removing the thermostat is a bad idea. It only masks the real problem. $2500 for a new head gasket!? That's a $1250-$1500 job.

Could be. Give the kick-down cable a quick once over also.

DC however you do it is up to you. Wiggle under the car, jackstands, ramps, a lift. You just asked me how you change the mount LoL! :D

I assume it's a 1mz-fe. There are two bolts that connect the alu. pan to the transmission housing. Make sure you get those off.

Sounds cool. Sounds like you need to get a 2jz-GE manifold off ebay and get a turbo on ya SC. ;)

Save $2500-$3500usd and have someone more experianced build a custom turbocharger. I'm pretty sure Sean McElligott is wanting to put a turbo on an early 1mz-fe if someone will drop it off at his house for a while. Or pay about $3500-$4000usd to have the 97-01 TRD supercharger machined to fit the 94 intake. Either way, any descent size turbo will kill the TRD charger in not just performance, but in powerband, and economy. No offince, but you don't know anything, and shouldn't be doing this by yourself unless you plan on doing un-told hours doing research.