Toysrme

This isn't nothing for EFI. It's very simple, no sensor's it doesn't need to run. Very tolernat of changes. That particular engine is stronger from the factory than problably 80% of all stock detroit iron. 95% if you want to compair parts to parts. ;) The car itself is horribly under timed. Someone with a 3vz-fe Camry a few weeks ago was mistified when he only ran a 17s 1/4 mile, having the mods to do it in 15 flat. He ran with his timing @ 25*btdc. That's 15* of baseline advance, with no pinging problems on high-octane. AFA leaning out, it affects the midrange mostly, the high range has a nice gain anytime you really load the engine down, like a flat out top speed run, or climbing a serious hill at high rpm. The differance in the 92-93 185hp 189 lb-ft 3vz-fe, and the 94-97.5 200hp 202lb-ft 3vz-fe is a leaner fuel mixture, and more ignition timing at the horsepower peak. You probably won't find anyone that's done this here, but you can read the thread on TN. About everyone on that that actually did it (half of them 3vz-fe's, half of them i4 3s-fe's) had something good happen. In a nutshell, they leave the factory with a huge amount of timing !Removed!, and way too much fuel. Say mid 12's when it actually needs high 13's.

Razor knife. Cut the silicon glue off, pry the black top off without jabbing. Sure you can change it back. Just spin the cog back to the starting point. That's why I tell people to mark it! So we all know where the factory tune was. =) You can play with your ignition timing too if you want. 12mm socket + extension & a timing light is all you need. be sure to put the car in diagnostic mode when you change the timing. That is accomplished by opening the diagnostic's port & bridging TE1 & E1. Factory timing on all Modern Toyota engine's is 10*btdc. Have fun.

Oooohohhhhhhohohohohoohoshohohoohhohohhohohoooho I thought we were talking about the A-pillars. My bad! Guess I spend too much time around performance oriented stuff! LoL! Directions are still pretty much the same, they snap out if you're careful. Do a search, a lot of people have swapped to new, chrome, or carbon fiber parts.

And you guys never believe me when I tell you the Dealer Lexus / Toyota replacement plug is a $1 NGK. Yall also don't believe the cheap NGK/Denso plugs don't last a long time too! :P tckcumming you may have inadvertantly played with the kick down cable, or reset the ECU's if you pulled a battery cable. If you didn't do either one of those, the smooth transmission is just head games. =) Now cut your Air-flow meter open, mark the cog with paint / nail polish / sharpie / scratch it, and lean it about 5 clicks. You think it's nice with good spark, wait till you take the excess fuel it can't use out. ;)

They pull on & off easy enough. Just unsnap them & get some at a pick a pull that matches color wise. You can use any Camry platform pillar. If you want gauge clusters, the 198X-1992 Mustang pillar is a pretty good fit. Easier to find than Camry platform pillars that's for sure. Better get some double sided tape tho, the screw that holds the top of them in isn't fitting on a Lexus!

Don't hate sensors, sensors have fractions of the failure rate. Your problem is people are randomly replacing stuff without troubleshooting becaus they don't have any idea on what they're doing. OR They want your money. I coulda told you none of that was your problem LoL! Take a multi-meter and test the three coil packs make sure the wires are not grounding Test/replace the bank 1 o2 sensor Check fuel pressure Check fuel injectors with the multi-meter

Don't cry, get something that makes you happier. Who cares what you drive as long as you're happy? I'm happy if you buy a pinto, if that's what inflates your tires!

Make sure they're both clean. Or if you live in the real world, equally dirty.

Very high, the masses are stupid. It's a repeating cycle. Some v6 Camry platform guy will buy it. Then can't figure out how it installs. They'll either ask on LOC/CL, or TN (Depending on what car), 50% of the people sell it again, the other half get it installed.

Every intake is a waste of time. Nothing more than a bling pipe. There is no performance to be gained from any intake system. Supercat if worse comes to worse drill a hole after where the MAF sits. Grab a brass fitting to fit that hole and braze it in. If you can't braze, JB weld works just peachy. When it's set, take a new vacuum line and run it.

;) When you can turbo a once turboed engine for less than $500, call me. It's got hose clamps on it now, those pictures from my photobucket must be 6 months old by now.

3vz-fe, blue arrow is the PCV valve 2vz-fe, blue line should be the location. It's behind all the stuf fin the picture, on the rear valve cover like the 3vz-fe.

Turn the dimming wheel.

You need to understand. These things (OBD-I N/A Toyota computers) will not typically throw a rich/lean code. You can triple the amount of fuel you put in them, and they run so rich they billow black smoke anytime you're on the gas - no code will be stored, no CEL will come on. The ECU's just really, really don't care! (A blessing for performance tuning, but it's no where near as good troubleshooting, or finding problems!) If the o2 sensors are OK, you can pull the EFI fuse for a second & put it back in. That'll clear all the stored data. No, probably not plugs & wires. Look under the back of the car, and make sure the exhaust tip, muffler, and muffler pipe isn't banged up. Ya never know when a mechanic see free money.

You can use the brake booster, the PCV< or any other line if you want. I would use the brake booster line, it's location is bound to give a little better distrobution. Just follow the vacuum assist line going from the brake booster to the intake manifold. It'll be about a 1/2", metal line that runs along the firewall, with rubber hose going to the BB, and to the IM. If it's like a 3vz-fe it'll run to the passanger side of the upper intake. 3vz-fe/1mz-fe Pink arrow is the brake booster, pink line is how it runs Blue arrow is the PCV valve, blue line is where it goes. 2vz-fe Pink is where the brake booster should run. Blue is the PCV. The PCV will be burried behind the stuff you see in that picture, it runs from the passanger side of the rear valve cover, to a 90* elbow on the bottom side of the upper intake.

Replace the o2 sensors. You can find generic replacements (you splice in, or splice the old o2 connector in) for like $25-$30 isntead of the $60-$90usd real replacements cost. Since you got whacked in the &#33;Removed&#33;, lay under the back of the car and make sure the exhaust is OK.

The only way it would have to do with a transmission flush, is if it is low on fluid. Drive around the block to ge the fluid warmed up, then check it. It should be at the hot-full line. In any case, don't let it shift, or stay in a slipping gear for any amount of time. The clutches in A/T's are fairly thin, and take no time to blow through -> transmission rebuild.

Ditto. I had to take my intake manifold off a few weeks ago. As soon as you break the seal with the head, coolant dumps into the intake ports in the head. I vacuumed some of it out, but was too lazy to pump all of it out. The car produced the normal white smoke from the coolant for a day or two it seems like. (I didn't drive it much, otherwise it'd ahve been gone on one trip) It should go away fairly quickly. Keep note that the less you drive it, the more moisture is going to be in the exhaust and cat convertor. You'll probably be getting more water vapor than normal when you start it until it all evaporates out.

Next to nothing. The oil filter standoff is held on by four nuts/bolts. You take it off, you put some RTV on it, you put it back on. Wait about two hours to set and it's fixed. Taking the exhaust manifold off, or moving it out of the way makes it easy to get to. I bet you put the filter on incorrectly, and it didn't seal. Buy a new filter and put it on first. FYI, orange light is low oil level. Normally comes on when you're a quart low (Top quart is fillter anyways). If you see the RED oil light come on -> That's low oil pressure. If you see the red light, immediately shift to neutral, and let off the gas so the engine idles. Toyota v6's have very, very little oil pressure when idling, and that will minimize the chance any damage is done. If the light doesn't go out in ten seconds once it hits an idle, shut it down.

Ditto I'm 140. Four 12mm, or four 14mm bolts. Grab a wratchet, unplug any electrical goodies (electrical seat / heater) and take the !Removed! out. And damn dude, how many posts in a row!? LoL!

What Sj told you. When you talk front / right in engine speak. That is with the engine OUTPUT facing you. That means the flywheel side of the crankshaft. When the output is facing you, the right hand side of the engine becomes the rear, while the left side of the engine becomes the front.

I've never done it on an ES/Camry. I have helped a good friend do it on an AWD celica three times over. We didn't need any of the special service tools. Take whatever you want from that you want to. I will say the Toyota parts bin is normally the same stuff, if not the same style stuff all across the board. I'm not going to tell you not to try, but the first time you'll need all day. Helps if you have air tools. Have breaker bars and atleast a full socket set. The cordless impact guns are the greatest thing of all time if your'e going to work on cars. =) Msot mechs I know own them, simply because it's annoying to listen to air tools when you don't have too! I would lay everything out Friday after work, and bust your balls on SAT. If it doesn't look like it's going to happen before noon on Sunday, you need to stop and put it back together.

ABS is not affected. The signal is still produced, cross refferanced between the other sensors, and checked against the transmission speed / back-up rpm/throttle position (In case the main speed sensor has failed). ABS will continue to operate.

It's broken in at the factory when it's put together. They just don't want that 100th of 1% of the buying public that would buy a new car, and immediately race it (HARD, like drifting, road, or auto-x - I don't consider drifting a sport... But nothing is as harsh on a car) to jar important hardware out. Like backing seat, or suspension bolts / nuts out. That's why the OEM books say to check such things. Back on topic... No it will not break in and get better. That's what short, and long term fuel trims are for. Don't wait for it to get better, you're wasting gas money until someone figures it out! Getting under 20mpg is bad... The cams are not setup to deliver large, very low-end punch anymore, they haven't been for a long time. - What I'm trying to say in a technical fashion... Is that the engine has no reason to be getting 16mpg at any time. ^ Because of that, I don't even have to ask how hard you drive the car... I know you're not racing it enough to average out 16mpg. If you were racing, you wouldn't wonder why you mileage absolutely sucks! On a side note. Driving hard early in the life willpromote superior ring seal. The better the seal, the less blow-by. The stronger, smoother, and more efficient the engine will be. Unfortunately... By early, I mean early. The second it get's off the dealer. I mean the first 100miles on the odometer, because it's all-ready broken in. Barring you're afraid to stress the *rest* of the car, drive it as hard as you want. Just be sure to change all your fluids on time for the life of the car. Sounds to me like it's got a serious mpg affecting issue, like: the octane of the fuel is too low - which could also be over sensitive knock sensors -> Fairly common problem many makers have been having for a good while now. If the knock sensor is sensitive, the ECU will pull timing when it shouldn't. You'll loose power, and loose economy in the process. bad o2 sensor a clogged cat The o2 sensors and cats are common problems *eventually* on everything, but not on new vehicles. You haven't been dumping in some kind of fuel treatment, or pumped in something other than gasoline have you? Like Ethanol, or Diesel. I would start off by doing one or two things in whatever order you want. 1) Go to an autoparts store (Autozone), or a Lexus/ Toyota dealer. Don't shut the car off, leave it idling. Have the autoparts store check for any codes (They won't be stored yet). If you go to a Lexus/Toyota dealer have them plug up the big unit where they can look at the short, and long term fuel trims. If you do that route, I would return to the purchasing dealer & complain. Ask the service guy if he'll just hook it up to the diagnostics unit real quick to check the fuel trims. 2) Forget all of that and pull the EFI fuse out for a second and replace it. That will reset stored ECU data, without playing with the other systems. Yes... It's a long post with me basically telling you: 1) Don't wait on the engine break-in, it's never going to happen (you've long past it) 2A) You can't possibly be driving the thing so hard it's getting 16mpg... That's not very feasible LoL! 2B) There-hence-forth there is a mechanical problem Reset the ECU, or go back to the dealer and ask them to hook it up to the diagnostic port.

I'm the opposite. I would flush it. The crap is 40,000 miles old. Draining the pan isn't going to change close to half the fluid in the system.