Toysrme

Nothing was wrong with it, jsut showing what the sindide should look like -> the metal is silver, but the oil films on it / varnishes parts leaving a gold color. That's good. Icemaninlv no, I'll call you tomorrow.

That's a yes and no question. The sludge itself doesn't cause a problem. When the PCV, and/or breather lines are covered/clogged; pressure builds up in the crankcase. Oil blows by the rings into the combustion chamber. Thus, you have the burning oil and smoke. Most of the time there is little sludge under the valve cover. It has the oily varnish on it, but the oil simply runs off the valve cover (and the valve cover isn't particularly hot enough to cook the oil while it's on there. Looks like this. 10-1 says he was lazy and didn't feel like changing the PCV valve.

Ya, any descent silicon, just make sure it's clear. The drains are in the bakc side of the unit covered by a rubber hose. Same style drain as the headlights & distributor.

mburnickas is right. It's a late model car, and federal emessions laws. If worst comes to worst and you think it's the canister (not the vacuum control for it) Replace it yourself. It takes a little wiggling around the intake hose (easily removed), but there is nothing particularly complicated about the EVAP.

The engine itself was the world's first OBD-II compatible ECU. Unfortunately, it uses Toyota OBD-I style connectors, so autozone type palces (OBD-II scanners) can't read your computer. If the light is on open either diagnostics port and jump E1 to TE1 (paperclip, wire whatever). Turn the key to ON and count the CEL flash pattern. EX 2-1. You can find the trouble codes online, in books, or post them and someone will tell you.

I've never counted 1mz-fe cam sprockets, or cam intermesh gears. On a 3vz-fe the intermesh gears change the timing between the intake / exhaust cams 17* per tooth. They will run three teeth off very poorly, one tooth off will produce a change, but not an ill affect power wise. Cam sprocket is around 12* change. One tooth won't kill it, but multiple teeth you start running into problems. I would start off by resetting the ECU. Go pull the EFI fuse & put it back in. That way the ECU resets, but everything else is not disturbed.

Any clear silicon will work. It doesn't have to be hot air (I wouldn't use a heat gun), any airflow will dry them. Make sure the drain plugs are not blocked.

What are your driving habits? What is the terrain like? Where did you move from? Where did you move too?

This is so late, but why did I list those things??? Replace the valve cover seals becuase with the upper intake off, it's not an extra 1/2 hour worth of work - and they ARE going to leak anyways, if they are not all ready down the back of the rear bank. Stupid tilted angle they use to fit the v6's into the car kills the rear seals. Clean the upper intake because it will be caked with EGR. You couldn't dyno any EGR equipped Toyota v6 six months apart (clean to dirty) without loosing 3-5whp from simply carbon build up. From 6 months to a year after being clean, you loose another 3whp. You're talking 10 horsepower at the crank lost over a year of having not cleaned them by the time it's done (It does level off). You can't make that up with an intake LoL! Even worse for you guys. On the 1mz-fe engines - the ECU uses way more EGR flow than it needs. What the rest of the v6/i6 engine families build up over a few years, they can build up in 6-9 months, it's crazy! If people would clean the upper intake, you would nearly never see an idle valve, EGR valve, sticking throttle body, or plugged cold-start injector (on VZ's) creating a problem. Lest you're a performance freak, it doesn't even need to be regular deal. 30,000 miles, or at least every 60,000 miles during the plug change (great excuse to do it) FYI the fuel injectors are in the intake manifold, not the upper intake. They fit into a recess, so they don't really get build-up from oil / carbon on them. I agree with the fuel filter. Honestly... I haven't run across an import having a bad fuel filter in years. It's got to the point in the last 15 years or so, with the japanese you're doing good to *need* to change the filter twice, maybe once over the lifespan of some of the pumps.

You can see disgrepancies there too, like the EGR being deleted and blocked. There's a sticker showing the basic routing of some of it under the hood.

Hope that helps. Ya, Don't go by those - if you did, you'd more than likely wind up with vacuum leaks, which will fubar the idle & low rpm performance. It's mostly random 3vz-fe stuff, but some of it is righ hand drive 3vz-fe's from Australian Camries. A 2vz-fe burrie din there somewhere... If the timing belt is off a tooth, it doesn't make a huge performance differance (more than that will kill performance). Check the ignition timing (10*btdc). If it's off - the cams are off -- At least the rear cams -- assuming you didn't play with the distributor. Set the engine to TDC on the gauge and take the front valve cover off. Make sure the cams are still aligned (dots pointing to each other).

Almost all rotors are mostly iron. They begin to rust an hour or so after water hits them; It's normal. Buy a bottle of rust kutter type solvent. That'll get the rust off without any work or marring. Then use whatever high-temp automotive paint you want. Be sure to follow directions (such as baking it on). Don't worry about overspray. It'll get scrubbed off by the pads and burned. My Brembo's are about a year old now. Still matches OK, but some light spotting from the worlds greatest wheel cleaner. Two coats looks good. If you don't keep the dust & wheel cleaner off them, it will eat the paint off. Same for the calipers.

The entire assembly pushes out the back of the car.

I wanted to sell my 93 es 300 for a 95 ls 400. But decided against it. Didn't want to re-mod an entire car. If you're looking at LS's be sure you get the '95+. They have many nice updates, and less problems. You won't go wrong with a '94 ES, or a '95 LS.

Whiteline sway bar 92-96 camry (BTR36) Rear whiteline swaybar for 92-96 camry. Cal TRD Suppliers to find the RSB for a 92-96 Camry. The Whiteline is thicker at 20mm. The TRD is only 19mm, but has two settings (holes). One hole (track setting) puts more tension on the sway bar. The whiteline is on the track side of the TRD - but not quite as tight. I love my whiteline.

No diagram, but I changed every bulb in my tails a few months back. I remember there being 4-6 10mm nuts you must remove. When you get those off, just pop the entire light assembly out.

I would take the dog-bone mount off and check it. Also check the kick-down cable. It should be in the middle of the adjsutment range. When rebuilt, they may have left it disconnected, or in wrong adjustment

I run 87 too. I ran 87 back when I was adding 10-15* of advance at high rpm too. I run 87* now with the turbo. I hear you - as long as performance isn't down, the knock sensors are happy, and there is no detonation - all is well. Differant engine tho. ;)

Please skip a strut tower bar. Unless you weld one together, you will never find one stiff enough to help. Not only that, but they also provide nothing in the way of handling. They bump intake most intake manifolds when the engine rocks. The list of why not to buy one goes on and on. Total bling. You may want bling, I don't know. If you want something functional, buy a rear sway bar. TRD makes one, as does Whiteline. 92-96 Camry.

Wow. At this point, people are simply throwing mis-information around wildly... No... No one re-programs, or re-flashes late model OBD-II Toyota ecu's... No one has ever reverse engineered one. The information is not a chip that is easily removed to start with. It isa non reprogrammable, and non reflashable EEPROM that is soldiered into place. Dealers don't have access to the equipment to modify an ECU, nor the information on how to do so. Outside of the engineers that work for Toyota/Denso brands, and anyone associated with them (i.e. Lotus & the company that makes the high end sports car based off the lotus). The closet dealers ever came to re-programming the stock ECU's (or modifying them in any way) were the small, overly-simple piggybacks they installed on the air-flow sensors on the TRD S/C units. They never worked at all... The reason the TRD S/C's are all on "permanent" back-order is because of massive detonation problems. They simply couldn't add enough fuel to the engines. Very correct, if an engine modification is a direct, or in-direct (to a proveable point) cause of a failure, the warranty is null and void on that part, or anything directly / in-directly broken along with it. If you say... This is one of the main reasons why you can't buy such things from the Toyota brands. They simply are not going to take out the massive amount of safety given to them by the factory engineers. That's not true for anything in the modern Lexus/Toyota/Scion land... Horsepower 101 is to remove any restriction. The simple fact, is that intak that EFI Toyota engine of recent memory (read mid 80's EFI - non forced induction) has no, or next to no power to gain off a cat-back exhaust, nor an intake modification. Let's spell it out across the entire modern v6 family. SOHC 3vz-e (truck / suv) is dyno proven to gain 7whp PEAK combined with a CAI 3vz-fe's (both 92/93 and 94-97) in Australia gain 10whp peak with custom headers, cat-back exhaust, and CAI 1mz-fe's gain 10whp with headers, cat-back, and CAI... They only gain 20hp at the crank off headers when used with a TRD S/C!?!?!? 3.4L 5vz-fe's are the winner, known to make 30bhp off headers, exhaust, and intake mods. The simple fact is that such mods (intake, cat-back, headers) are not needed, not beginning to mention that they are a complete waste of money to buy. $1200 for custom headers that can't give any power... I can see buying an intake or exhaust. Everyone starts out with that mistake, and at least they give you the sound of going fast! An SMT-6 (at the moment) Costs $355, with a hand full of dealers willing to install it on your car and give you a simple rough tune. (part of the appeal of an SMT is that you can re-program then in real time via a laptop). The only other piggyback you will find installed & tuned without an install / tuning fee in this market is a Unichip. Chalk up $800-$1200 for one of those to be installed. Even when you can re-program/flash a factory chip/ECU, it's not always the best solution. $325 y-pipe/cat $125 safc piggyback $50 for any misc mods There is an easy 30-40 crank horsepower for $500. Guess what??? That 30-40hp will take your 7.2s 0-60mph, 15.5s @ 80mph 1/4 mile to 6.5s 0-60mph, 14.7-14.9s - 93-94mph 1/4 mile. You'll loose to any M/T Maxima with equivalent mods. You'll loose to any 90's v8. Guess what??? You'll be faster than 99% of the cars on the road, along with the vast majority of stock muscle cars ever produced. What you need to take from this is a simple message... Everything is relative. What is fast to you? What kind of power do you want? I'm going to tell you the straight up truth... You *can* have a fast car on the track - You simply have to understand that most "easy" modifications are not going to help in that quest. Can't stand the fact that you can't run with a Maxima with the same money spent? Sorry, you'll have to spend more - the good news is you'll destroy most non blown - non cammed accords. Not to babble on and on, but ya. *edit* Had to crack my ECU open today, took pics.

Just quoting websites. Reading from a 1998 Toyota 1mz-fe repair manual: I'm the biggest supporter of not running higher octane than the engine needs you'll find, that being said... Personally, I wouldn't run 87 in a 1mz-fe anyways. Over-active knock sensors are a big problem on them. That's just me. Yall might not, but I have run across them loosing 10-20hp in the mid-high rpm powerband too many times. ;)

I had the same problem on my passanger window. I replaced the switch with one out of a 4runner. I think next time I'm bored, I'll buy a few of the automatic switches from various toyotas and see if they will work on all the windows. That would be a neat $10-20 project.

LSPV - Load sensing proportioning valve. It changes the amount of pressure that travels to the rear brakes based on weight / ride height in an attempt to give increasing rear biased with more rear squat / weight - without adding so much line pressure the rear end slides out.

That's a baaaaaaad idea. Drain the pan yearly, or flush it every other year is my advice. Schedule A full fluid replacement every 20,000 miles, or 24 months Towing, or heavy acceleration Short trips less than 5miles Outside temperatures remain below freezing. Extensive idling, and / or low speed driving for a long distance. Schedule B fluid inspection at 15,000 miles, or 24 months. Nothing on the above list I could see the highest quality synthetic with an aux cooler lasting 50,000 miles before it's toast if the elderly owned the car.

The front o2 sensor (bank 2 sensor 1 - code 28) is the pink arrow. The one you have problems with is the rear manifold on the back side of the engine. You'll have to wiggle your hand behind the engine to get to it. *edit* My bad... Forgot the link!