Toysrme

Use P.

Drive the car around for 5-10 min, park and check the fluid level with the enigne idling. Shift lever connections are worn out, solenoid for first gear is malfunctioning If it *does* actually get into first gear, the torque convertor may be locked up when it shouldn't be.

If it's still crazy when he get's the new pipe on, I would clean the IAC first. Awww man have some balls, seafoam it at work! I swear at some point in the future I will put some in my washer tank so the water injector I have will squirt atomized seafoam into the engine. Smoke screen! It'd make for a funny video hahahaha!

No, 3vz-e gaskets will not work. AFAIK different head / block patterns, intake manifolds, and sensor ports. Ya, that's not much more than bare minimum compresion. I bet when the engine heats up and the metal expands a little bit, it drops like a rock. You'll see something like this when you tear it down (between the #1 & #3 cylinders & near a coolant passage) A flexi-shaft extension will save your back & life taking the rear valve covers off. It's helpful to have normal, and deep well sockets in 1/4, 3/8 and 1/2" drive (you can get by without the 1/4") A cordless impact driver will cut the working time by 3/4. If you don't have one but you have a little money, I would suggest eBaying a used one, only to work on the car, and re-ebay it. Careful on the camshaft brearing caps. The heads are aluminum and strip easily. I've got three caps (two rear, one front) with stripepd bolts. Forget re-using most of the hardware!!! Find yourself a local nut & bolt supply house, and take your hardware down there and have them swapped out for the hardest stuff they have (normally M10). I replaced everything I took off with new hardware for $20. You need to have a big wrench. When you take the valve covers off, the camshafts have a spot that is shaped like a nut/head of a bolt. (Hex pattern) When you are taking the cam sprockets on/off, you put the wrench on the cams and walla! As soon as you bump the wrench into the side of the head, they can't wiggle anymore! It's easier to turn the engine over with compression. Take the spark plugs out! To get the crankshaft pulley off, take a 1/2 drive wratchet / 19mm socket and put it on the pulley. (with the plugs out, or ignion wire to distributor cut, so the engine doesn't run) Crank the engine so it turns over a split second. Congratulations, You just got the bolt out without fighting 200lb-ft by hand! (spec is 181lb-ft, but they self-tighten) You definately want a haynes repair manual if you don't have one. Chilton's has more words, but haynes has pictures, and accurate wiring diagrams. (you want the 92-96 Camry book)

Ya the oil blow by for the front head. Un plug it and just shove a squirt bottle (Like windex) into it so it doesn't leak and can run. You'll hear the rpm's lowering the faster you squirt. SK had a great idea about cleaning the MAF. You can get some metal exhaust pipe at Autozone for like $5 & cut it to fit. Then turn around and go to lowes and get their rubber pipe couplers. (It's a rubber section, with two hose clamps installed on it) They cost a couple dollars a pop. They stand up to low pressure turbo's so it shouldn't have a problem leaking if you seal it well for him. You can repair the dogbone mounts for about $15. I did mine with some of the 3M poly window sealer. (You can't go and use polyurathane like liquid nails. That can't take the vibration. I know, it didn't!) You bust the rubber out and put the new stuff in. The warning I have about it is you can't put the mount back in for at least a couple of days. They won't be fully cured in the middle until like two-three days. It's a good friday project, to replace on sunday evening/monday morning. Otherwise my mounts were all in great shape. I drove around (easily) without my dogbone for a few months without any problems. So if his mounts are in good condition, he shouldn't be damaging anything if he goes easy on it for a few days. Ditto on the good first post. It's nice when people research first, then ask question.

I don't mean to argue, but I should explain something. When you do this, you may well find that the engine will free rev (in N/P) slower than normal. This is because you are taking out some of the rich during throttle transitions. The engine will run very rich when you open the gas to help it's responce. It's one of those wierd times. It may rev slightly slower in park, but once youg et on the road and mash the gas, it will still be faster. Any insignifigant amount of throttle responce is made up for in spades by doing the timing advance, if you choose to do that. Improving low down eh? It's hard to do. The cams are set up for great low end performance fomr the factory. Is the famous dyno of a fairly well maintained A/T 3vz-fe. For the low end there isn't much you can do. You can make the ACIS (varriable intake) activate as soon as you hit the throttle. That will improve the 2000-4000rpm performance, and make the intake louder. 1) Get an aquarium T from wall mart. 2) On top of the throttlebody, there is a vacuum port marked R. Put the T on that port. 3) Under the battery is a vacuum tank. It has two vacuum hoses that run to it. Pull the one closest to the front of the car off. 4) Connect that hose to your T, and connect the other end to the ACIS actuator. 5) There is a small piece of vacuum hose you just took off the ACIS actuator. Screw a screw, or a bolt into the end so it is sealed. Put that on the vacuum tank to seal it (where you just put the hose) That helps a tiny bit. Honestly... The VZ block engines have pleanty of low end. (at least for me) They all pull first gear quickly, and when setup right can spin both tires when taking off. They slow back down because they lack horsepower where they transmission keeps the engine speed. 4500-6000rpm. If you want to be faster/quicker. Spend time working on that high rpm range.

That's great compression for 225! Considering they come from the factory around 175-180psi. The front bank is doing great.

Thanks. At some point I want to write a book. :D It's all props to Sean and peer pressure.

1mz-fe enigne is coil on wire ignition. There is no distributor to check/replace. (Nor is there timing to fool with) I normally scoff at plug wire changes. If they're not grounding out, and the electrodes haven't been damaged when changing spark plugs. They're simply not an item that typically becomes a problem. Cheap replacement wires suck when used on Toyotas, and OEM wires are almost as expensive as the big wires found in "performance kits". In order I would check: 1) More vacuum leaks (replace, or make a new air tight hose) 2) Clean IAC valve I think the problem lies in there. I've hacked a million different intakes on my engine. Anytime I would let one get loose and leak between the AFM and TB (in his case MAF and TB) they will OK run as rpm rise, but nearly die out at a slow speed, if they run at all. 3) Clean EGR valve Seafoam won't fix this (Tho I advocate it's use along with spraying a 16oz bottle of water directly into one of the holes before the throttle body,. I am one of Seafoam's strongest supporters, It is awsome at cleaning the heads, valves and such, but just a spray bottle full of water get's more carbon out of the combustion chamber than even seafoam can.) The fuel pump and filter are OK. The engine is getting enough rpm to rise. It wouldn't be bad gas. The ECU can pull a ton of timing on 1mz-fe's when need be. PCV - a problem at high rpm. Blow-by & crank case pressure rises with rpm. It wouldn't run at all at 2000rpm if it couldn't idle because of a PCV problem. Grommet is fine.

At any rate. The ECU is fine. The distributor is fine, the Ignitor/coil is fine. White smoke = blown head gasket. The severity of yours is huge. Testing my own 3vz-fe when I rebuilt the top end (and port & polished it among other things when I blew my rear headgasket) I revealed: They will crank and run (poorly) on only two pistons. Any two pistons. The engine will move the car on three pistons(I drove down the driveway on the front back) When I blew my headgasket (one piston lost compression, and was billowing coolant) performance did not degrade severly... At any rate, you've either severly blown a headgasket (multiple cylinders), or you've cracked the block. Trust me, You severly blew the headgasket. The block is cast iron and very thick. It doesn't go anywhere without a crane. You can see the insides of mine Here in various states of disrepair. You will need a full gasket set to do it. There are too many smalls eals that can't be saved when you tear it down. I've not seen a 3vz-fe gasket kit going on ebay for a few weeks now. You might try emailing the guy I got them from sales@autoreplacementparts.com and asking for a 92-93 3vz-fe full gasket set. I got mine last summer/fall for $140 shipped if I remember correctly. Tips: Be sure to clean *everything* while you're in there When you put the heads on... Over torque them so the heads stay on this time! Stock is 25lb-ft, 1/4 turn on all, 1/4 turn on all. That winds up being about 45 lb-ft. Tightening in an opposite pattern (like tightening a drum, or doing the camshafts) Torque them straight to 65 lb-ft. You might not like the idea of korean head gaskets, but they are superior to what Toyota used at the time. There are three reasons why the gaskets blow so easily on their mid 80- late model v6's. 1) The US gov banned asbestos in the 80s. All gaskets got weaker 2) Toyota under-torques several key parts on the car. Namely the heads. 3) On the transverse engine's, the rear heads are laid back at, or over a 30* angle. This causes a lot of un-needed stress on the gaskets in the rear of the engine. Ever wondered why it's always the rear head gasket, rear main seal, or rear valve cover gasket that goes first? That's why!

Cool. If it's *just* the flex pipe go to an exhaust shop. They'll sawzall the flex pipe off and weld a new piece of flex in. Like 20 min worth of labor, and less than $20 for one piece of flex. You pay more for that, but if it's just the flex pipe, it should be able to be fixed for under $50.

Bosal y-pipes work, but they get made fun of a lot because they try to pass off a copy of the stock y-pipe for a performance one. That doesn't mean they are bad VS stock; they just get made fun of. Get a custom one made at an exhaust shop for $250-$350usd. There's a good 15-20hp. In your case what would that cost? At most $140 from what you're about to pay anyways? Depending on what you get one amde for, you're looking at a $5-$9 per horsepowr gain. You may not like performance, but that's what the throttle pedal is for! ;)

cgts, pretty!

There are video's of Honda's running, and driving for 10 min with no oil, and *running* for 20 min. It could probably idle a few min before any major damage was done. The oil-build-up & varnish in these things is so bad, everything stays "poorly" lubricated without any oil in them to begin with. On most of the Toyota v6's, there is around 3-10psi of oil pressure at idle. That's... Next to nothing to begin with. They typically won't fire plugs until 400rpm cranking, If cold, idle-up to 1100-1250rpm, and when warm settle down to 650-750rpm (All of that is general info depending on which v6 you have, and what transmission logic it is using). You're fine man. Scared you more than anything else. I agree with mburnickas. No oil is kept in the heads when the engine is off (and there is little flow to them anyways). Nothing there would have been hurt. You couldn't turn the engine off and vacuum a full cup of oil out of both heads 30 seconds later. (See the varnish, and the 100% lack of oil?) There is so little oil in fact, that you can run the enigne without the front valve cover on. The ONLY oil that will sling anywhere, is the small amount that is picked up by the set of intermeshing cam gears.

Nope. Take the cap off and put it back on. (I'm not sure on an '05, but just follow along) Pull the EFI fuse out, count to ONE and put it back in. Normally it's in the fuse box closest to the battery. (Look on the underside of the fuse box top. It's got a diagrham showing you what is what, and a fuse puller tool along with spare fuses) You've fixed the gas cap (I guess) and reset the ECU. If it comes back on I have no idea.

Yes I'm going to use the flex-pipe. It'll sit in the former cat convertor location. There is a huge cavern where it sits... You could fit a LARGE turbo there and would probably never scrape it if you avoid coilovers, coilover sleeves, and stupid stuff like plowing speed bumps. The location is heat shielded for the correct amount of temperature simply because of the cat sitting there. (It's white fiberglass insulation, like what is in th stock y-pipe, and a piece of sheet metal tacked over it) If you apply some logical thinking, you can see why this is bad for our type of application (a V engine, single turbo). You have to route the exhaust piping back up into the bay. Adding a lot of pipe, it's in a very hot location (but not as bad as sitting on the manifolds) There is limited space, and a lot of things in the engine bay are not tolerable to the 1000*F + a turbo can hit under sustained boost. It's such a pain in the butt to merge your pipes together under the car, then route the pipe forward into the engine bay, then the return goes back down... It's next to impossible to do it on our A/T's. The transmission case is HUGE. You can't fit 2 1/2" or large pipe by it!!! That only leaves extremely complicated piping setups like Tony Lueng did. (He's the man) There is one reason why people "in the know" still install them there. The oil return. There is no pressure in the oil return. It's all about the gravity. If there is any restriction in the oil return (kink, small hose, blocking, up-hill...) oil backs up into the line. The only place for the incoming oil to go is right out of the seals. There are a few "laws" about how the oil return can work. Widely accepted is what Corky Bell put in his book. 1) It ONLY flows downhill. This is valid (He's the turbo god) but not 100% true. There ARE small up-hill flowing turbo installs floating around with no problems. 2) It can flow horizontally There are plenty of junkyard turbo's that don't blow seals, while having fairly horizontal flows. 3) It can flow uphill, but no higher than the oil inlet Think sink drain trap. A couple of isntalls like this on purpose with no problem. Both 2 and 3 are avoided like the plauge, so you can't find any documented examples saying it simply won't work. What's different here, is that it'll have to flow a few feet (Probably 3') to the oil pan horizontally, and at a very small uphill grade! It may, or may not work. Do I care? Sure, but it's not vital. Why? If it won't return correctly & I can't correct it, F it. I'll just install a scavenge pump. It'll STILL be a cheaper, easier install than piping into the engine bay. I like being different anyway. 220-240bhp-ish isn't enough on a car this size. SK go buy a half descent $150 wire feed welder off ebay, with one of the pimp $40 electric helmets. You don't need anything complicated. You don't really need any experiance. The welders suck... But you're not building a tube chassie, your putting exhaust pipe together. Those cheap little things do just fine at that. You should. You got jumped a looong time ago. :P 1) n2o is cheap, just add a little fuel on top of a wet shot. A $2.50 cold start injector shoved in the rubber pipe after your maf, and triggered on the same 12v signal the n2o solenoid oughta add that lean-out safety barrier most people would be comfortable with. 2) You can machine the TRD turbo to fit the earlier 1mz-fe intake. (And the 3vz-fe intake, tho no one has done it. The intake manifolds will bolt to each other) 3) Turbo's can be done cheaply if you're up to it.

I've used Dupli-color high-temp on many things. I've used it on calipers before. The trick is the same as everything else. You *have* to follow the directions. The surface must be spotless. No grease, the metal needs to be hit a bit with some 0000 steel wool. The paint needs to be baked in an oven at XXX temp for XXX amount of time. Otherwise they normally flake and burn off. That's about the only way to get normal high-temp paint to get a great life on things like Calipers and exhaust manifolds. Normally it still burns off exhaust manifolds. Mine is flaking now. (The differance is mine lasted about 6 months before it became a problem, instead of 6 min) I tend to heatsoak my brakes when I'm having fun. Boiling fresh dot3 fluid out of the caliper type of fun. (why i swapped to dot 4+, i.e. 5.1) if you're an easy driver 99% of the time, you don't need that much prep work. Just clean and spray. I've never used VHT personally, but I've seen it on some friends cars before. I agree with SKperformance. It's crap even when you follow the directions.

Ya you nailed it. It's going to merge around the firewall. Just before the cat. And yes, the turbo is now going where the cat sits. No, I don't really expect oil flow problems, but we'll find out when it's up and running. (To answer the question right now) If it does F it. I'll spin the pipes around, re-merge them and do a normal install... After finding a way to route the up/down pipes around the huge A/T housing. I didn't really get a chance to work today or yesterday, nor will I tomorrow. I'm unexpectedly spending most of my week on a Bobcat doing some work so... I hope I can get the pipe done sometime over the weekend, if not early next week, and get everything else finished by the end of next week. Anyawys... I've gotten very little done over the last two days. I've been in a huge hurry too, so next to no welds have been ground down. You can see in these two I'm working on the curve. It's almost there! One more angle cut and that'll be th horizontal plane! And I've found out I need a new oil return flange... That sucks. eBay to the rescue!!! Hahahaha. hah. Not really much to say... It's time for there to be a lot of ES/Camry v6 turbo's.

I wouldn't rule it out yet. You can blow the head gasket in various places. Not jsut between the oil and coolant passages. When mine blew last year, it blew on the #5 cylinder, between the cylinder and coolant. I wasn't loosing oil, just billowing white smoke. That's just my opinion, I hope it winds up being the cheapest thing you can repair. Some little silly something. What really helps getting the back valve cover off is a flexi-shaft and an impact driver, or fairly torquey drill/driver. That way you can just shove it down there and bend it where you need to. I've been through two or three of them in the last year. (They can't take a lot of torque! :lol:LoL! Good luck with it man, I hope you get that thing sorted out!

It's an AFM. It can happen, but I most seriously doubt that it's broken. There's nothing to break inside it. About the only way they break, is when you try to pull the plug off without taking the wire clip off that holds it on. When you do that, it rips the traces and pins off the PCB inside the AFM. If you're just curious, take the filter out of the airbox and pull the assembly up so you can stick your hand in it. With the ignition ON (car not running) push the on the flap of the AFM in. A tiny bit of pressure will engage the fuel pump, and turn the injectors on. You can hear them if you lean over close to them. You can also feel them if you touch the fuel line, or anything metal that they connect to (intake manifold, or fuel rail). 3vz-fe is fairly easy to take a part. Don't fear it. You can tear it down to this in an hour, assuming you have the tools to start with, and a haynes manual to read before hand. In all seriousness, I still think you blew a head gasket.

There have been pleanty of 3vz and 1mz custom y-pipes made. Bumping isn't normally a problem if you test fit. Before i put the Y and flex pipe on, I'll bolt the seperate pipes to the engine and tack weld it together

I slowly started working around 11:20am. Put everything up and had this by 4pm. Got a hair cut, got home... Was bored to tears, so I drug the welder back outside. Did that in about 15 min. I'll have some nice 1-1 time to spend with the grinder tomorrow LoL! I need to pickup another stick of 2 1/2" pipe too. It'll be done tomorrow, so I'll be happy.

Ya I talk to Jason all the time about turbo's and junk. He's the man. All the time he's trying to expand his knowledge also. Doesn't just take the refresher stuff. He goes to them about as soon as they come up. I think since I've started talkeing to him he's done two or three new corses on various new things. Very smart man. Ask a mechanic if they change the transmission filter out when they flush the fluid. The correct answer is yes... The transmission does half a filter. Probably 80% of the time, even Toyota tech's will go, "what filter?". You've got to *TRUST* the mechanic doing the work. If they F up, and they fix it at their cost, then fine. Everyone messes up. To me, that's the #1 thing you look for when finding a good mechanic. Behind that would be their general skills as a mechanic. If a mechanic won't take the time to actually TALK to you about anything car related under the sun, I wouldn't deal with them. It takes roughly ten seconds about anything dealing with performance to get every great mechanic I know (young OR old) to spend a half hour, hour talking with you. For no other reason than to talk about it. ;)

Winner by a mile! I've not seen an ES with black two tone w' black wheels, but I've seen a bunch of gen3 Camries with them that are fairly nice. The ES just makes that some razor sharp smoothness. ;) I, obviously, think black on black looks wonderful. Just proves that Toyota B202 goes with everything! AFA wheel size. Get 18's if you want looks, get 17*7.5 if you're into high performance.

Stock down pipes are 1 3/4" ID. The merge is only 2 1/4" ID. The flat section is 2 1/4" wide, but only 1 1/2" tall!!! You can see Toyota puts a fluted plate to help redirect the backwards flowing rear head the correct direction. That defiantely doesn't help at all! The Y-pipe is the only part of the intake / exhaust that really restricts the power much at all. (Not including the cat convertor<s>) You can see even in the bends 2" mandrel bent pipe dwarfs the stock 1 3/4". So does 2 1/2" ID exhaust pipe vs the 1 1/2" by 2 1/4" pipe after the merge. Anyways... Was going to build me a new one for the turbo and decided to post pics of the crap-tastic stock pipe. I'll update it when I get a new one built.