Toysrme

I'm not addressing any of that. I'll save you the arguement of drag, lift, and all that. Because there is over three times the surface area on the modified under tray, laminar airflow is achived where the stock promotes nothing but turbulence. The laminar flow has a much higher velocity, the pressure differance between the bottom, and top of that general part of the car is much less. Thus... There is that much less lift. Anyone familliar with their car at very high speed will know exactly what I'm talking about. On my personal test track (Filled with professional drivers) the nose of the car becomes light at X mph. Because of the torque over of the engine, and the aerodynamics. I noted the onset of that was delayed roughly 5 mph. Actual notes I took are against forum rules. The original article is actually in a published magizine, with testing done on a prius. It went from 44mpg, to 52-54 on the highway. The Prius undertray is the same crappy stuff we have. Slightly worse actually (which is obviously amazing, The pruis is an amazing cross-sectional machine! Yet it achives that with a horrible under-car flow. Amazing.) SKperformance, the ES 300 actually was sold, and marketed as a sports sedan from 92-96. It was the equal of everything in it's segmant in performance tests at the time. The OEM Goodyear Eagle's gave it enough grip to off-set the massive body roll of the suspension in most testing. On topic tho you two, seriosuly! LoL! Discussion the performance limitations of any of the family would be something I think that would be a bunch of fun on this particular forum. Start another thread. We all have a lot to learn, and we can all teach ourselves.

Not a treatemant. All the time, or whenever you feel like it. Try it for a few tanks, then stop. You'll see it rising, then nose dive back to normal when you stop using it. It simply improves atomization of the fuel charge.

Because that's not a perminant. I have two A/F ratio gauges... And you're not going to find a voltage based gauge that will interpolate between 0, 1.25, 2.5, 3.75 and 5 volts.

Well what exactly, am I suppose to do. I obviously can't say anything to anyone. The both of you make up 2/3 of the Owners's here, and obviously you have no love lost with me. Let's start with the first thread. OK Fine... I was wrong for jumping all over the sources for the FAQ. In my defense; How about looking closer, before judging me??? I *NEVER* said SK was an idiot, or any other such thing. He simply wrote the FAQ and posted it. I have no idea where he got his information in 2003, but obviously some of it is wrong, or subject to interpretation. I've written plenty of long things (You can see. I just copied a handful over), and spent a lot of time doing so also. It would be ignorant to call someone that obviously spent a lot of time working on something a dumb !Removed!. That was not my intent with the FAQ correctino post... Have you tried looking at that from the other side? "Quite interesting , the reason you are so knowledgeable in all of this is..........." Look... I'm a light hearted guy, but IMHO that's a very smart-!Removed! comment. Here's youre distinct differance. I cited his sources. He's talking about me. On this thread. "Not that its any of your business but no, the moderating staff here is pretty laid back as they go." I'm very glad to hear it! Keep in mind... Like he said, this is my ninth post. Tho I have been back reading to see what's common on LOC (Why do you think my first post was correcting the FAQ?), my personal experience all ready is that the place is up tight. Along from reading back in posts. So obviously, that is my mis understanding. I'm sorry. No one should be on the defensive. A question was asked on this thread, we all are giving our opinions and suggestions on how to help the poster.mburnickas simply asked me why I didn't suggest using iridium plugs. Also why I think that someone that just changed their fuel filter, and is doing light troubleshooting on that particular car for the first time, should take the upper portion of their intake off. I answered... I wouldn't know if SK is on the defensive... He never had a reply, nor have we spoken since the "Quite interesting , the reason you are so knowledgeable in all of this is..........." post. I remember us always getting along on CL. I see no reason that shouldn't continue... Anyways. I'm sorry for all the misunderstandings. No hard feelings... I hate things drifting so far off topic. Feel free to PM me, or contact me with the information in my sig if you wish to talk about it.

Background: We all know that the Automatic Transmissions in the Camry/ES 300 (both of the v6 4-speed automatics 2vz-fe & 3vz-fe A540E, 1mz-fe A541E are mechanically the same) are setup for comfort. The bad news is that they're slow shifting. The good news is that they don't hunt for gears under anything but highly spirited driving. The great news is that there is something we can do about it! Theory: Anyone that's looked into making serious power gains on any A/T Toyota engine will notice the second most important upgrade to the A/T is to upgrade the valve body. By raising the pressure in it, the shifts are much harder, and faster. This gives quicker shifts and also reduced wear on the transmission. (less heat is produced) Most of you that poke around the engine bay will see two cables going to your throttle body. Obviously one is the throttle, but what is the other cable? A good guess would be cruise control, however that is incorrect. The second cable is the "Throttle Kick-down Cable" and it's function is close to what the name says. It controls a valve in the transmission's valve body that can increase, and decrease the pressure in the valve body. (A great example is the ECT button on the transmission. With it held down, the transmission shifts harder, and holds gear longer. The astute among you notice if you get on the throttle hard enough at the "right" RPM range the same thing is accomplished. This is because the cable is tighter the more the throttle is open.) What we are going to do raise the pressure of the valve body, without sending it off to a transmission shop and spending $399 on a great upgrade. Instructions: The pink cable is the throttle kick-down cable on *my* car in it's stock position (the nuts are in the middle). What we need to do is make the cable as tight as possible WITHOUT restricting wide open throttle. (If you crank it too tight, you can't open the throttle all the way.) All you have to do is run the top nut in that picture all the way to the rubber stopper, then close the bottom nut on it. (as said above, this will probably restrict your WOT operation, so back off a little) Your shifts will now be much quicker, and much firmer also. Possibly to the point of just being a really hard shift. Your car is not only quicker, but the transmission will go longer without burning fluid, and the clutches will last longer because they're not holding the planetary gear set as long. *note* Forewarning, the transmission will also shift into Drive and Reverse harder also. You can't have it both ways, everythings a compromise. If it's too much of a pain going into D & R back off. Just do that! ****************************************

Background: Ram air doesn't work, CAI doesn't gain anything more than the stock box and they both cost money. IMHO The only reaso to buy any of the *expencive* CAI setups is for the metal pipe bling factor. I can achive the same bling with sand paper and Duplicolor Engine spray paint, sorry... Theory The more air in a cylinder, the more fuel you can burn, the more power you have. Instuctions Two mods you can do by themselves, or in combination. 1) The stock box is already CAI, however there are two things you can do to improve it's function! When you take out your battey, and unbolt the relay and fuse boxes, you can see the CAI that goes behind the fender from the bottom of the stock box. By taking that pipe out and replacing it with <insert cheap, large diameter pipe here> 4" dryer ducting, we obviously have an easier time drawing in air, especially around 3500-4000rpm and from 5000rpm on. 2) Cut the bottom of the original airbox out. While some may argue that it will then injest hot air, this is untrue. If you take the box out you see there is a huge path striaght to ground for air to flow. It's there, so you might aswell take advantage of it if you don't want to do any other intake mod. I will also now say 100% that the sound from #2 is astonishing. (depending how much you cut out) It sounds IMHO better than any of my friends v6 Maxima, Accord, or domestic V6's, and I've gotten many compliments from them not only about how good it sounds, but that it's free. **************************************** A later update. After countlessly logging performance. I found several interesting things. The power between any type of intake, is slim. Any modification to stock generally makes less power, or less power over most of the powerband. For nothing more than I was tired of playing with it. I simply removed the entire intake. Filter and all. As it turns out... Aftermarket pieces, custom pieces, anything you do might as well be for sound improvements only! That's it! There are only three weak links in the entire intake/exhaust system as far as intake and exhaust go. 1) The heads need to be ported and polished 2) The y-pipe is horrible 3) The cat's all eat 5-10 horsepower, depending how old, and how clogged they are Everything else. Intake, headers, Cat-back portions are good for a lot of power without modification. There are obviously two concernes to this. 1) Wouldn't a hole in the intake be a Ram-Air system. Always bashed for drawing hot enigne bay air? Yes... It might as well be a Ram-Air, but no. Anytime the car is moving, air is expelled out the bottom of the car by the firewall. 2) Doesn't dirt hurt!? What about rocks! Sure. Tons of dust hurts... If you're going to go driving on a long, unpaved road filled with loose dirt and traffic. Throw a foot off some nylon pantyhose/stockings on the AFM. Even a lot of dirt is *nothing* compaired to the carbon build-up everyone with an EGR system is intaking. No. A rock is not going to jump past the car under-strays, bounce off things, going around the transmission, taking a 90* turn and enter your Air-flow meter. (Or MAF). Again. If you happen to be concerned about it. Throw some panty hose around it. Yes, my car has run perfectly fine for a long time without either. ****************************************

Background: So now we've done basic Intake and Exhaust upgrades, but are we taking advantage of it for it's fullest extent? No! Even if we've added next to nothing in power, we can still add a bit more power, and improve throttle response. The stock ECU's are programmed to run as close to 14.7-1 Fuel Air ratio as possible. This is great for fuel economy and emissions. The drawback is that this ratio is not good for making power, or throttle response. It's too lean. For a N/A engine, we really want October to a 13.5-1 air-fuel ratio. Theory We need to add fuel to the mixture. We've all seen the cheap-o Ebay "gain 22hp engine chips" that sell from between $5-$25. They work by adding resistance to the I.A.T. Intake Air temperature sensor to make the ECU think the temperature is colder than it really is, in response it will richen the mixture. The Problem They don't work on Toyota's as discussed many times before. The ECU isn't fooled for any length of time before it reverts back to normal tuning. The Solution The intake air temperature sensor signal isn't the only one that can easily be modified so that the ECU changed the fuel mixture. Enter the E.C.T. Engine Coolant temperature sensor. By placing a 500 ohm resistor on the ECT sensor wire going to the ECU, we can control what the ECU thinks the coolant temperature is. By RAISING the resistance on the potentiometer, the ECU thinks the coolant temperature has dropped. In response it not only adds the corresponding amount of fuel, it advances the timing slightly as well! Instructions After buying a 500 ohm potentiometer from an electronics store <cough> Radio Shack <cough> electronics store <cough> Obviously this is a very simple mod, but many will shy away from it because you have to find the wire going from the sensor to the ECU. Trust me in that if I can wire an 11 wire SMT-6 and tune it with no instructions, or help (and I'm the only one on earth anyone knows of woot!). You guys can cut one wire and solder a dial in. I suggest looking in whatever manual you have. Toyota, Lexus, Hayes, Chilton. Don't count one book out. They're all equally incorrect on ECU wiring, simply because the wiring can change on what seems like a random basis from one day to another. Just find the ECT marking on the diagram, and look at which wire it's on. Tuning This is how tuning should proceed. Obviously everyone's potentiometer will adjust at a different rate. Start with the potentiometer turned off 0-resistance. Crank the car. Then turn the knob slowly until your RPM rasises in 100rpm increments. The greatest performance increase should be with your idle raises somewhere between 950rpm and 1100rpm. Most will probably split the gains between 1000rpm-1050rpm. Results This isn't going to give you a huge amount of power. What it will do is advance the timing between .5 and 2 degrees, and add 2-4% extra fuel to the injectors. It's not much, but we're talking a $2-$3 part and less than 15 min of work. *note* The engine reporting a lower than normal temp will not affect the engine's ability to shift the transmission, or rev freely. In the unlikely event you bought the wrong resistance potentiometer and it happens... Turn the dial the other way, or get a 500 ohm potentiometer! ****************************************

:D There are soo many ways you can have fun with cheap electronics! Reading and deciphering what your car is doing Background: So you're running stock, have some upgrades, or maybe even have a low power Turbo, or S/C system and you're still running the stock ECU. How can you possibly tune the engine without hundreds of dollars of expensive 1 time dyno tuning??? Theory A tuned engine is a happy, powerful, and economic engine! The OEM doesn't understand this. The Vf signal. Our lifeline into what the ECU is doing to the base fuel map!!! The Vf signal is the ECU's way of letting the world know what it is deciding to do with the fuel mixture. When all the sensors have sensed, the ECU has picked a map to run in, and everything else is said and done, the Vf signal shows you what the ECU has decided to do. (This is your long and short term fuel trims in an OBD-I car) By connecting any type of volt meter to the ECU/diagnostic port, you can read the votlage of the Vf signal. 0V = Rich mixture 11-20% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture) 1.25V = Slightly rich mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is leaning the mixture) 2.5V = Within 3% of the basic map 3.75V = Slightly lean mixture 4-10% from normal (ECU is richening the mixture) 5V = Lean mixture 11-20% from the mixture (ECU is richening the mixture) I have two wired up. One reading each Vf signal (Vf1, Vf2) One is for the front bank, while the other is for the rear bank. (Obviously I4's will have one Vf signal) If you feel like figuring out what the new voltages will be, you can bridge Vf1 and Vf2 and read the entire thing at the same time, but I wouldn't do it. The o2 sensor. The only way to see the end result of the ECU's tuning! The Vf signal shows you what the engine is doing in an attempt at perfect tuning. The o2 sensor shows you the end result o f what *actually* happened. By comparing the o2 voltage to the Vf voltage gives you a fairly accurate representation of what your engine is doing in the current conditions, and where you need to go. This works with older lambda (narrow band) o2 sensors... You just can't accurately tell the A/F ratio. If you can find a 1v, 1.5v, or 2v volt meter, you can wire those up to the oxygen sensor's themselves, or the oxygen sensor simulators from the ECU, or the diagnostics port under the hood. 450mV should correspond with 14.7 air/fuel ratio. The ECU will try to achieve this basically any time you are not more than 80% throttle. The smaller the voltage, the leaner, the larger the voltage, the richer. *note* there is the *real* o2 sensor voltage, and there is the *simulated* o2 voltage delivered to the diagnostic port. The simulated o2 sensor is a stead, averaged signal that will like a tiny bit behind current conditions (.1-.5 second). The o2 sensor, while live, fluctuates quickly (a good sensor will fluctuate at least 8-10 times a second @ 2500rpm, and between 400-550mv at idle/cruise) (bank 1 sensor 1 is the front bank o2 sensor, bank 2 sensor 1 is the rear bank o2 sensor) The combination of the three allows you to see what the ECU originally wants to do with the A/F ratio, what the ECU is trying to do with the A/F ratio, and if it is successful in doing so. From that, if you have any idea about tuning you can interpolate fairly well how to do something. Now! Someone will ask if it matters that you do both sets of signals. Not really, considering only the ECU itself can tune every individual signal. *However* I have all ready found that the signals do not always match each other... Often times during, and immediately after transition periods, the sensors will not match by a setting or two. CEL's are annoying You can wire up a switch in your cabin to check, and clear CEL's!!! This is very easy to do since above the driver's left foot is a diagnostic port which contains the second set of E1 and TE1 terminals. Simply splice the two wires together with a switch/hold button, and whenever you want to check/clear a code, simply hit the switch which will connect (ground) TE1 to E1!!! Instant basic diagnostic mode!!! ****************************************

Background: This ties along with FMS VI (and a later un-named article). Your gas mileage could be great! It could even break the laws of physics... By sucking and blowing at the same damn time. But either way, we definitely need to increase it by any means possible. Gas is getting expensive... Theory: Gas additives... All either use something to raise octane, clean the fuel system, or decrease the surface tension of the gas. Why not use high octane? Because higher octane creates less power... It is *MORE* stable. The only reason to run HIGHER octane, is to be able to run MORE ignition advance than you could without facing detonation (pinging/pre-ignition, it's all the same) Why not clean the fuel system? Because a $5 can of seafoam does that extremely well! Let's decrease the surface tension of the gas!!! This means several things: It will pump slightly faster, and transfer/expel heat slightly faster. Both of those are so small, it's negligible. It will atomize better when it leaves the fuel injector. Here's your gain folks! Fuel will also break up better every time it hits the wall on the way to the combustion chamber (for that matter the valve too) Instructions: Mix acetone in a 2-5oz per 10 gallons of gas ratio.You'll have to find your sweet spot (mine is 3.5 in my 3vz-fe, 4.5 oz in the '99 4.6L f150 and 3 in mom's '02 maxima) We want 100% acetone (nail polish or real, the fragrance in nail polish doesn't bother us). 16 oz of nail polish commonly sells for $2.50. 32 oz of Acetone goes for $5-6.5, One Gallon $10. Acetone doesn't eat away any part safe for gasoline. While being readily available, and cheap enough to pay for itself. This lexus gained roughly 2 mpg from it. The F150 went from 17mph (avg) 19mpg (best ever seen) to 20mpg (avg) 22.5 (best ever seen). Mom's maxima went from getting 27 (avg) and 30 (when i drive it on long highway trips) to 31 (avg) and 35 (long trips) If you only get 10% on 19mpg, that's an extra 35 mile range (5 miles more than the distance between your low fuel light coming on, and your ECU *BLEEP*ting your engine off before the fuel runs out) A gallon of acetone will pay for itself in a tank or two. Maybe faster. (someone on a forum reported a prius going from 44/47, to 55) I challenge everyone to give acetone at least a 16 oz bottle's worth a try! That's the cost of only one gallon of gas in a lot of places now... ****************************************

Background: Aerodynamics. What can't be said? If they're better, you get better gas mileage (less resistance to moving through the air) while having the ability to accelerate faster... Theory: A stock Camry/ES 300 is pretty good from the factory. Gen 1 ES 300 has a .32 drag coefficient, while having 21.88 ft ^2 of frontal area Gen 3 Camry is .40 drag coefficient, while having 22.27 ft ^2 of frontal area Good, but could be better! ES 300's HP losses at X mph: 55mph = 7.8 horsepower 60mph = 10.1 horsepower 70mph = 16.0 horsepower 100mph = 46.7 horsepower 120mph = 80.7 horsepower 140mph = 128.1 horsepower Camry's HP losses at X mph: 55mph = 8.4 horsepower 60mph = 10.9 horsepower 70mph = 17.3 horsepower. 100mph = 50.5 horsepower 120mph = 87.2 horsepower 140mph = 138.5 horsepower Anything we can do to cut resistance is going to and increase gas mileage, and increase top speed (if you don't have an ECU limiter) Roughly 1/3 of the drag on a modern car comes from the undercarriage! Ever seen your undercarriage??? Next to NOTHING has been done to help it out!!! Percentage of Total Drag Cooling package (including radiator, intercooler, oil cooler, etc) - 33.4% Exterior - 31.7% Front wheels - 13.1% Rear wheels - 6.9% Floor - 6.9% Rear Axle - 3.1% Engine - 3.1% Front Suspension - 1.4% Exhaust - 0.7% Instructions: Face it... The large front air damns on most body kits don't do crap for aerodynamics. (Let alone many people don't like how they look); while lip spoilers simply look ridiculous if you're not a Porsche running a 24 hour endurance race! Let's decrease that by a big chunk! Anyone that's ever changed their oil will recognize these as the stock under trays: We are going to replace those. You have a choise to make: Plastic sign material (i.e. the large, fluted yard sign stuff) = $2.50, easy to make. Cut it, tape it together, bolt it up. Good to just "see if this crap actually works" A sheet of ABS plastic (1/8" thick) = $50-100 Much stronger. This is actually a permanent solution. Cut to fit, use a heat gun and bend it into the shape you want. Fiberglass Epoxy = $20-30. Many, many times harder to use. You must build a form first, then lay your fiberglass down, then epoxy it. One chance, but nothing is going to bust this! Both fluted Plastic, and a large sheet of ABS can be found at sign shops. Just ask for any scrape 2' in depth, by whatever the width of your car is. The easiest way to start, is to tape a large sheet of paper under your car, and trace out the general pattern. Transfer this to the material you are working with. **************************************** At this time there is an aerodynamic warning. ¡¡¡DO NOT go farther behind than the front cross member!!! If anything leaks from your engine, the plastic will be melted. More importantly, what you do here DOES AFFECT your engine bay's ability to expel air. Run no covers and the temperature RISES because less air is able to pass through the radiator. Make too LARGE of a cover, and the same thing happens. Remember that some 90-95% of the air that enters your engine bay is expelled at the BACK-BOTTOM of the engine bay! **************************************** Be sure you leave extra material around the outsides. You want enough so that you can tuck it under the bottom of your body/bumper, that is rolled back plastic. Tape the plastic signs together... WELL... If you have ABS simply take a heat gun to the ABS and get it hot. You can then bend it evenly with something like a broom handle for even leverage. I suggest re-using the stock bolt locations on any mounting method. No need to re-use them all. That's all the more you have to take back off during a fluid change! (I'll skip fiberglass epoxy, because it takes a lot of practice... PM/IM/EMAIL for questions/tips on that. *Definitely* create an ABS Plastic one first so you have a ready-made mold.) Here is my fiberglass epoxy one: It is not visible to anyone at headlight height, or above. Shape plays a very important part. If you form the thing down LOWER at the edges (in front of the tires), and roll it inwards. It will deflect air from part of the tire (from looking in front of the car) you can take a good chunk of drag away from the front tires. The trade off will slightly decrease stability in high wind. (Not enough for me not to go back and do it later) (Unless you're a lucky, or smart; you'll want to remake an ABS one a few times, or make a few sign versions to find a "sweet spot") Gas mileage on a 350m one way, all highway trip improved 4mpg at 75-80 mph, while top speed improved roughly 5 mph. 28mpg trip-average on a 3vz-fe that was previously never getting more than 24mpg under it's best highway day is a huge difference. Now for the most important question! Why it is blue!? Simply because I didn't have enough black model air plane covering, and blue was the darkest color I had on hand. ;) ****************************************

Background: Pre-Ignition, Detonation, Knocking, Pinging along with Dirty, Grimy, !Removed!-tastic carbon deposits. (which heat up tremendously and also cause pre-ignition) It's hard to put together two things that will hamper performance, and destroy a running engine in a shorter span of time! There must be a way to easily defeat them both, without compromising performance, and reliability. Theory: Enter water & water/alcohol injection! We'll skip technical detail for a short list. Water injection suppresses detonation like no other. It accomplishes this in three basic ways: 1) The incoming air charger is significantly cooled by the atomized water 2) Combustion chamber temperature, if a larger amount of water is injected, are lowered. 3) The water cleans off carbon in the intake track, while the steam created in the combustion chambers blasts carbon off parts clear into some of the exhaust manifold. Because of this, depending on the amount of water / mixture injected, the octane rating of the fuel is effectively raised 15-30 points! How much water is needed? Well. That is a loaded question. Typically, you add your mixture, which is now both fuel AND WATER and take 12-25% of that. Water/alcohol injection. Short and sweet! Adding up to a 50% alcohol ratio to the water will increase it's charge cooling efficiency. We do *NOT* NOT NOT NOT want to injection alcohol as an extra "fuel". IT DOES NOT WORK THIS WAY!!! There are three types of alcohol you can inject: Methyl, Ethyl, and Isopropyl. Isopropyl (rubbing alcohol) CAN NOT BE USED!!! It *will* try to burn during the combustion process and suck a significant amount of oxygen from the gasoline. Both Methyl and Ethyl WILL NOT burn in a majority gas combustion process... It's next to impossible as they are under their lower explosive limit (the ratio of air to fuel needed to combust). Isopropyl WILL try to burn, as it is just above it's lowest explosive limit. That causes the mixture to be extremely rich. That leaves us with methyl, or ethyl alcohol. Throw out methyl! It eats Aluminum over time!!! That leaves us with regular ethyl alcohol. It can be bought in paint stores for $10 a gallon. Instructions: Sadly, you can't just go out and buy fuel injection parts. Water conducts electricity, and the Alcohol will eat away at gasoline safe parts. You would corrode a fuel injector shut rather shortly. Noone wants to rebuild an injector every month :\. Thankfully! Toyota has given us a gasoline injector that *CAN* tolerate water! The old style Cold-Start Injectors!!! They consist of nothing more than an atomizer, and a solenoid to open/close the injector. Now we have two upsides, and a downside. On the good side, unlike just buying an atomizer nozzle, when the injector is turned off, boost will NOT flow down the injector/water will NOT be sucked out by vacuum. This is a simple injector, NO DRIVING equipment is needed!!! That's also the bad news, being a simple injector, it's either on, or off with nothing in between. If you don't like it, you can simply cut the shaft off and use it's atomizer. What does a used cold-start injector cost??? Try $1.50 on ebay. Less than $5 shipped! (2vz-fe / 3vz-fe CSI's are fine. The 2vz-fe injetor is 1 1 /2" longer, so I would take a 3vz-fe injector before that as it would have an easier time fitting in the middle of the intake. The flow rate for a clean injector is around 150cc/min (OF GAS, NOT WATER) at 30psi. What do we do for a water supply? Seeing how engine bay space is at a premium, and we all-ready have a 5 quart water supply installed; al-la washer tank. That's the supply! Water pump. originally I bought a windshield washer pump. (again, used Toyota part shipped for less than $5 on ebay) Unfortunately, this does not deliver enough flow for a boosted setup on it's own. I couldn't use it. I am sure if you bumped it's voltage up to 18-24v it would be a *perfect* pump to use! So... I was forced to drop a spare gas pump I have laying around! All 80lph of it. It's hard to find information either way about submerging a fuel pump in water, and pumping it. Then again it's a spare so I don't care what happens. I have simply hooked both the pump, and injector up to a 40 amp relay (again, bought on ebay for $2.50, shipped for $4). Which is triggered by the switchable ground on my SMT-6. This way I can trigger it by any combination of the following: Throttle position, RPM, A 0-5v source, another 5v source. (such as, a map/boost sensor, and temperature sensor) For anyone *not* using an SMT, you could do something like using a boost switch. They're typically found in 1-4psi, 5-14psi, 14psi+ versions for $15-$25 new. This isn't the best way to do this as the water would be trigger many times in normal driving when it shouldn't. Originally, the flow was simply insane! The water pressure in the line must have been phenomenal as the 150cc (gasoline) CSI was flowing somewhere around 600cc/m !? That's the flow you would want around 450-550hp on a boosted engine!!! It could empty a one gallon milk jug in just over 4 min! Something had to be done! I used a smaller line to restrict water flow, and a smaller line to restrict water intake. Now we're down around 450cc/m as It takes just over 60 seconds to empty a 20oz coke bottle! Eventually, I will wire a large potentiometer to lower the output further at a later time. This particular digi-cam has a hard time picking out the water, since it's installed, I can't take it out and put it against a bright backlight on a black background. So we'll make do! **************************************** One other thing worth mentioning... When you're on boost running water injection, you have no reason to fuel past your peak power. (typically 12.5) The water is doing all the leg work of cooling the charge, and much better at controlling the pre-ignition in the combustion chamber than vaporizing gas is! **************************************** national Advosory Committee for Aeronautics 1942 Investigation of water induction in a single-cylinder engine over a range of fuel-air ratios from 20:1 - 8:1 indicated the following conclusions: 1) Water injection allowed a fuel to be operated above it's normal maximum permissible performance limits. 2) Water injection allowed a fuel to be operated at a higher indicated mean effective pressure, with a lower indicated specific fuel consumption, or with both, than was permitted without an internal coolant. 3)Water injection had a marked cooling effect on the engine head an cylinder. The exhaust-valve-guide was the only point on the head at which the temperature showed a tendency to increase with indicated mean effective pressure. The temperature was less, however, than that obtained with a straight fuel permitting equivalent power. 4) Water injection showed no advantage in fuel economy when the fuel was operated well below it's maximum permissible performance limits. Based on that, Without re-tuning the ECU with more ignition advance, and a leaner mixture, I wouldn't think the fuel economy will improve much. If it did, I would expect that to be because carbon deposits are being cleaned away. ******************** All the testing was done on a 202ci single cylinder air-cooled engine. 7.0 Compression ratio, 80 octane fuel, and the engine is being force fed air through it's manifold. Keep in mind this is all old-school stuff, so don't be trying to compair that to modern stuff. Taken at a manifold inlet tempature aof 250*F, at 2000rpm. (The testing methodogy was to increase power until the engine was audiably knocking, then back off from it's onset 7%) Indicated mean effective pressure = combustion chamber pressure Maximum Manifold pressre = boost in in/Hg scale Estimated hp = you're a !Removed! if you don't understand this one! At an Air/Mixture of 15-1 100% fuel: IMEP = 180psi Boost = 37in/Hg Est hp = 280 20% water to 80% fuel: IMEP = 215psi Boost = 43in/Hg Est HP = 330 60% water to 40% fuel: *** IMEP = 306psi Boost = 59in/Hg Est HP = >450*** That's at a freaking 15-1 Air to mixture ratio!!! At a more friendly 12.5-1 ratio 100% fuel: IMEP = 205psi Boost = 42in/Hg Est HP = 306 20% water to 80% fuel: IMEP = 264psi Boost = 52.5in/Hg Est HP = 390 40% water to 60% fuel: *** IMEP = >310psi*** Boost = 62.5in/Hg Est HP = >470*** At 10.5-1 ratio 100% fuel: IMEP = 260psi Boost = 52.5in/Hg Est HP = 385 20% water to 80% fuel: IMEP = 295psi Boost = 58in/Hg Est HP = 425 *** Results not exactly measured. Engine limits discovered. I included the 40% mixture purely to show just *how much* fuel is having to cool the mixture, and that yes you CAN lean fuel safely, provided you give thought to the amount of water needed to offset the fuel. ****************************************

Background: For any of us looking into custom turbocharging, there is good news and bad news. The good news is the stock cooling system is MORE than adiquate for dealing with any amount of power the stock engines can throw out (400-500hp). The bad news, is underhood temps itself when you install a turbo is phenominal! Theory Cooling fins are ugly to some, hard to setup, and quite ineffecient at cooling. There must be a way that works better while being much easier to setup. Instuctions When you open the hood you notice that there is a rubber seal that goes along the back of the hood. By removing this heat will be able to escape the engine bay. To make this a really good mod, unbolt the hood from it's brackets and shim it up using washers. Don't worry about hood lineup with the front quareter panels. You can shim the hood a relatively far way before it won't line up. ***************************************** Background: Antifreeze, depending on the formula, has a heat transfer capacity of 50% of normal water. Yes, for the uninformed antifreeze is fairly horrible at transferring heat. Instuctions A car that does not see a harsh winter should run a ratio of 30% antifreeze , 70% water, and whatever ratio Redline's Watter Wetter advises their additive to mixed with. Summer cars should use 25% Antifreeze. You're really in luck if you can use Toyota's Red antifreeze. It has better rust inhibitors than green antifreeze. Just don't use it on Toyota engine's that don't call for it. ****************************************

^ Exactly what he said.

Is the moderation staff so anally over-tightened on this forum you even have to consider saying that!? You're stating your opinion, and trying to help someone at the same time. Anyone offended by that is simply ignorant... Hmmmm... From the light reading I've done, this is the common attitude here.Look... Unlike non drivers, I do believe anyone with experience in a Camry, that drives an ES 300 will realize, it's the exact same car, but 100% different. That being said (For no reason other than to cover my own !Removed!...) It may have been a $38,000USD car when it was bought. That doesn't change the fact that it's 100% an $800 engine, built by Toyota, and up until the last few years, with that same $800 engine having parts built/designed by Yamaha. Here why I don't advocate using iridium plugs: (From here on out, interchange NGK and the equivalent denso plug. They cost the same, and the OEM / dealers use both. Normally the NGK plugs as their bulk cheaper) 1) In these engines, the chances of iridium reaching their full life at 80-100,000 miles, at their highest performance level is slim. The carbon buildup is massive, along with carbon comes extreme heat build-up. 2) Iridium plugs often cost $15 a plug. NGK 6779, 5672's, and the Denso equivalents are normally found for $1 a plug. If you were just completely wasteful, and anal about it, that's 15 plug changes for the same cost. 3) Toyota v6's, and v8's all come from the factory with either NGK 6779's. All i4's have the basic 6779 plug, with a V-crimp in the electrode (5672 plug). 4) Toyota specifies these $1 spark plugs (twenty cents for them) to be changed at 60,000 miles... 5) When they are changed, the same thing is re-installed unless they can talk you into buying an iridium plug! Yes... No dealer uses Denso plugs, they ALL use NGK 6779's. The common trend here seems to be "Replace with the most expensive part available". I'm also assuming "The OEM knows best" attitude is also the most prevalent. Well by that logic, then Lexus does know best, so why do they factory install, and continue to use these bottom end NGK plugs throughout your car's life? Because they're cost effective, and work well over their life. Do they last for 60,000 miles? The vast majority of the time that, or over. While being 1/5th the cost of a platinum plug. (Which are said to last 60,000 miles also... Rip-off) That's you. He has ben told the small things to do. Even if they wouldn't result in poor fuel economy (not bashing anyone, but not everything specified in this thread is going to cause a rich A/F ratio, or incomplete combustion.) Yes... I do. We've had dozens of people not particularly mechanically inclined do it at Toyota Nation. Surely by logic, since we all have $35,000 cars, then we have the best tools money can buy also! LoL! Juuuust a joke...Yes I expect him to do it... If you can change a fuel filter this is the next step in mechanical complexity. Fuel filters are not always easy to change either. Most of the time it's done from an awkward position, and you work with frozen parts. Maybe you in vision him rebuilding a carb? It's not even close to that. The entire Upper Intake is held on by two 14mm nuts, and two allen bolts... 1) Remove the air cleaner&IAC hose 2) Remove throttle cable and transmission kick-down cable 3) Remove electrical connector for TPS, IAC/ISC 4)*Remove brake booster line 5)*Remove PVC hose 6)*Remove both EVAP routing hoses (normally found on EGR valve/ISC) 7)*Remove vacuum hose to ACIS 8)*Remove 3 EGR/EVAP control plugs from throttlebody if installed 9) Remove and plug coolant inlet 10) Remove and plug coolant exit 11) Remove two, 12mm bolts holding EGR pipe to the intake 12) Lift upper intake-air chamber assembly of fthe Intake manifold. The gasket is metal, no need to replace If a 2/3vz-fe remove two 10mm nuts holding Cold-start injector in, and swing the injector around out of the way *Denotes empty hoses If you can change a fuel filter, why be scared of: 2 nuts 2 allen bolts 2 normal bolts 2 electrical plugs and a few hoses... Only two of which even have a fluid in them. (And if not plugged, will only leak a few cups if you take your cooling caps off to release pressure) What's to be scared of? You're dealing with a 15lb slug of aluminum... You only have to pull the intake connecting side of the hoses, and they're all formed. Even if you don't label them, they're going to fall back into place. If you do label them... Pen + masking tape + extra 5 min. Not exactly complicated. That is something everyone on this forum should do anyways... You loose 5-10 horsepower, and the resulting economy from simple carbon build-up from the EGR as it progressively cakes the entire intake track in 6-9 months from a fresh cleaning. Think 5 or 10 horsepower across the entire range doesn't mean anything? At 60mph, a 92-96 (also the most aerodynamic of the ES's so far) loose 10 horsepower to aerodynamic drag. 16hp at 70mph. Highway cruising, and city acceleration can both be greatly affected by a 10 horsepower loss (or GAIN) The MZ-FE family is horrible with carbon build-up. The ECU controlled EGR runs too often, and under too many circomstances. What the earlier ones build-up in a year and a half or two, the MZ's can build up in half the time. While you have it off... You can take an air-grinder, or dremel and do what I tell you. The intake splits into a top / bottom sides immediately behind the throttle body. Top feeds the rear head, bottom feeds the front head. When you take the throttlebody off and look, the split is a 1/2" flat face. That's not aerodynamic in the least bit... By simply grinding that flat face into a sharp point (takes 2-3 min with a dremel and cheap grinding stone) you can gain a few top end horsepower, some slightly throttle responce. Not much... but it's something simple to do, works, and the intake is all-ready off... You're a fool if you don't do it at the same time! Sound complicated??? Grind the only flat face you see, into a sharp point. Still sound complicated? I hope not.

1) In this car. I never run premium. You could add... 15 degrees of timing advance on any descent 87 octane after 5000rpm and not ping. 3vz-fe's are... Rediculously under-tuned. It wouldn't have a problem if you could run 80 octane fuel through it. 2) All year 1mz-fe's have extremely over-sensative knock sensors. Wether or not lexus asks for premium gas, Toyota does... I have no idea why Lexus doesn't in some of your manuals. You definately can see the timing being retarded when you run 87 octane on a dyno. Instant 5-10hp and large throttle responce lost as timing is pulled and replaced. (A side note. Many midly modified 1mz-fe's will pull timing on 91 octane gas.) Relocating, replacing with less sensative knock sensors, or running a stand alone are the only solution. 3) High octane gas has more additives. During the mid-late 90's oil companies were dumbing huge amounts of cleaning agents into all of their gas. The federal government stepped in and said, "Gee, this is a great idea, we'll mandate they do it!". Unfortanutaly the US government is retarded, and mandated many times lower the amount being adding. For the last few years, all oil refinaries have been spitting out the same minimum quality crap they can get away with. Profit margin > being nice. That being said: If you have a 3vz-fe and are running 87 octane...That's just really sad. If you have any year 1mz-fe, and can detect a slight ping, feel the engine faintly holding back, or surging. You need to run higher octane. If you're running any engine on low octane gas, and are not experiancing timing loss, or pinging. You have no reason to run higher octane gas. About the 1mz-fe knock sensor problem. It's horrible in 94-95, slightly better in 96, and better, but still bad 97-01. The problem itself is the exact same. The "sensative ECU logic" was toned down as the years progressed, but never "fixed" as it's not a "problem". Like I said... If you know what you're looking for it's noticeable on all of them, but make any amount of descent power from them and it's horrible. IDK about the 3mz-fe's.

I'm not a newb, and unlike everyone else with an ES 300, I'm concerned with real performance. I have inherited the most powerful N/A v6 ES 300 / camry engine right now (Since sean went turbo) And I've got my turbo sitting in the garage, waiting on some equipment to weld it into the car. That and I figure I know more about the entire v6 family in general than anyone else. I *know* I know more about the 3vz-fe than anyone in this hemisphere. Atleast... Anyone "known" on the internet. Sean McElligott is the mack-daddy tho. He'll always be the power/speed king of ES 300's, and 3vz-fe's. He's just too good.

Start off advancing the timing 7*. It shouldn't ping on 87 octane, if it does, drop it back to 4* of extra advance (10*btdc is stock). This will only add 0-3hp depending on rpm, but increases throttle responce greatly. Cut your Air-flow Meter's top off. Tighten the cog / spring. This will lean the fuel mixture in open-loop mode. Depending on how much it leans out, there's probably another 10 horsepower hiding in there. (Please paint the tooth you start out on so you don't get lost...) The ACIS flap on the side of your intake. T it's vacuum actuator into the E port on your throttle body (i.e. bypass the ECU's lame control). Take the electrical connector off the VSV so it doesn't become a vacuum leak. This will increase power under 4100rpm. Take your entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it. Just behind the throttle body, sharpen the top / bottom runner split to a knife edge (instead of the 1/2" flat face). You typically loose 5-10hp from carbon buildup. You gain back lsot horsepower. (And add a little flow at higher rpm's, where the FE head/cams need a little help) If you have no emessions. Throw the EGR system away (close the pipe with a 5/8" brass cap fitting on the exhaust manifold. Block the hole on the intake pipe off with anything handy. Metal plate, Metal sheet with a wood backing. Piece of wood... Use some RTV silicon to seal whatever you use.) This will keep you from having to clean the intake every few months. That's... 100% free and you should have 5-10-15 horsepower, depending on where you are in the powerband. I just told you how to gain more power for FREE than a cat-back exhaust and new intake can possible make.

Buy a haynes manual. Changing the fuel filter IMHO wouldn't solve the problem. Take the entire upper intake air chamber off and clean it (and the throttlebody). The EGR carbon buildup is extreme. Enough to cause problems, along with loose 5-10hp after only 6-9 months without a cleaning. While it's off, replace the spark plugs with the typical, cheap NGK 6779's found at autoparts stores. They cost $1, and no more than $1.50 a piece. When you've done this, reset the ECU by pulling the EFI fuse out, and replacing it. (The TCCU-ECU will reset instantly... You don't need to wait)

Cam timing.

Corrections I think should be made, and why. Whoever gave you that impression is an idiot. The 3vz-fe is horribly OVERCOOLED. Normal operating temperature barely opens the stock 190-212*F thermostat, as the engine stays in the 180-200*F range during normal operation. It's inconceivable to get it close to the 220*F area where it would make peak power. Let alone the engine OVERHEAT. Exactly opposite. 92-93 have serviceable struts into the 94 production run. 94.X - 96 have sealed. Whiteline does make front an rear sway bars, but only rear sway bars for 92-96, as the front sway bar is large enough. Front sway bars are only made for 97-01 cars, and the same diameter as the previous years OEM sway bar. Intake, cat-back exhaust, and headers on the Toyota v6's make next to no power. It might as well be considered bling, and sound upgrades, with minor performance differences.Instead, for someone looking for power should look into the Y-pipe. Having 2" down pipes merging into a 2.5" y-pipe provides a near ideal balance between exhaust velocity, and exhaust restriction.(The stock y-pipes reverse flow the rear hed into the Y, while choking diameter to 1.75" or less in the pressed curves. Along with a flat plate with holes in it running across the merge to try to equalize pressure) The stock y-pipe's are all extremely restrictive. Doing just the y-pipe will provide more power increase than an intake, headers, and cat-back exhaust can provide combined. Typically 10-15 horsepower can be found with a y-pipe upgrade. For anyone that can ditch the cat convertor at the same time. Look for closer to 20hp. There are no actual chips that can be re-programmed, or swapped into the Toyota v6 ECU's.You *can* use a piggyback (A-la SMT, SAFC, E-manage, ect) to intercept the AFM / MAF signal to lean / richen the fuel curve. using the 3vz-fe as an example. 92-93 made 185hp & 199lb-ft. The overseas 94-97 3vz-fe made 200hp, 204lb-ft. There is no mechanical difference, nor is higher octane fuel required to do so. Toyota v6's run incredibly rich, with very conservative ignition timing. All of them can make 10 peak horsepower with any of the piggyback controllers. No dyno tuning required. (A VZ-FE owner can simply advance his distributor 7*, to 17*btdc, cut his Air-Flow Meter top off, and tighten the flap 3 clicks to lean the engine out. Giving 10-15hp for FREE) Things such as JET, and VENOM are scams. JET is proven not to do anything, while VENOM simply triggers open-loop mode at 50% throttle, instead of 75-80%. Same power when you hit the gas, much lower fuel economy. VANOS is variable valve timing.Are you kidding me!? VANOS is variable valve timing. NOT A VARIABLE INAKE! Who was feeding you this stuff??? All Toyota transaxle (fwd) v6's from 1988 (2vz-fe) on have ACIS. Normally the flap is open, to "promote economy, and low end torque". That's a load of crap. The acronym really does tell it's only function. "Acoustic Controlled Induction System". When the flap is open, the noise of the intake is greatly reduced, as the sound pressure waves have much more room to expand, much earlier. peak power at ANY rpm is not achieved with it open. The stock ECU applies vacuum to the ACIS's actuator under these conditions: 1) The car has a load on it (in motion) 2) RPM's are at, or above 3900rpm 3) The throttle position sensor is at 50% or higher. A free mod is to take a vacuum line onto the ACIS's actuator, and directly T that into the vacuum port on the top of the throttle body marked E. Now the ACIS will snap shut at any rpm (even idle), provided the throttle is approximately 20% open. This will give an increase in power from roughly 2800rpm-4100rpm. It's a linear increase, so it's not something a butt-dyno will reveal, but it is there. They're all 80amp denso units. These can be directly swapped with 130amp Highlander units. Correct. An FYI, ES's share the same rear rotor size that v6 Camry wagon's had. Again. You're wrong on your "camshaft trickery". All versions of Honda's vtech change both cam timing, AND can duration/lift. Toyota still doesn't make a camshaft system that can alter the basic cam profile itself. Only the timing of such.