Toysrme

SOLAR PANELS!!!

define no compression. if it's NO compression, or low compression across all three cylenders then the timing belt probably jumped bigtime on the front cam sprocket.

if you want such extended recommedations you also typically need higher oil capacity, regular 5-7,500-mile quality filter change intervals, and hopefully a block warmer/extended highway miles. nothing extends oil intervals like simply carrying more oil... which if you notice, is why medium+ duty engines, and extended drain kits use gigantic filters in the first place, some of them haivng a two-three quart capacity of their own. id go alittle longer on the filters, and change filter brands. fram sucks, horribly. every personal experiance, every mechanical experiance, and every test of every

not needed

you should ahve never touched it; it's not a MAF, it requires no maintenance, ever. now if you want, you can spin the cog about 5-10 clicks tighter to lean the engine out some & you'll pick up some horsepower. AFA not runing correctly. change the plugs, cap & rotor & fix any vacuum leaks. the AFM has nothing to do with it...

3.0L 3vz-fe 2.5L 4vz-fe

The HOUSEING is cracked? how it's a 1/2-3/4" thick aluminum casting... Show me the crack. If you can clean it entirely of oil & grime in the heat affected zone. You can grind off the sufrace oxide & MIG or TIG weld it back together.

most likely the valve stem seals are leaking. make very sure you keep oil in it. the leak will only get worse, and it is rather expencive labor wise to fix. if anything, keep it overfilled a quart.

when the engine is still warm, what's the compression read after about 6-7 turns? and the needle should move up pretty evenly on the strokes.

you may want to run that compression test with a different gauge. that one sounds dead. brand new & warmed up you'd never see 185psi on it, let alone 235.

it's keyed, it can only go one way without shattering the camshaft... take a timing light & set the base timing in diagnostic mode to 15*btdc. thank me later.

me turboing your car will make it faster.

the average person could adjust the valves & fix the top-end oil leaks from rotting seals in a weekend with about 40 bucks. the key is getting all the measuring done ASAP by sat afternoon. that way you can call a toyota deal while it's open & be sure to have the needed shims on-hand to put it back together. it's not hard, it just takes some time. re-use shims where possible too.

BMW takes all the luxury out & spends most of the money on the unequal A arm suspension. Then whatever's left over goes to leather seats & navigation.