Toysrme

Sure, as always the '94 Toyota Camry repair manual is here to please.

To clarify... Both myself and Monarch told you it wouldn't be the valvetrain. You said it was the valves. I can believe it's the waterpump. The mechanic is talking aout the idler pullies. He's buying you the full timing belt kit & replacing the pump. Not just the belt and pump. $400 is actually a pretty good deal. He's not making any more profit than he should be. Call around if you want, but you're not going to find better. He's doing this plus changing the water pump. Which... is a pain in the !Removed!. I wouldn't do that at the house for less than $450 if you asked me to LoL!

'02 and up Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3 Offset: +50mm 92-'01 Bolt pattern: 5 x 114.3 Offset: +38mm Camry wheels will fit. All Camry platform wheels will swap from gen3 to the present (92+). Anything '02 and up is a direct fit. To get any pre '02 wheel to fit, you simply need a small spacer. Just find some steelies for sale on ebay. They go for next to nothing.

Ditto, probably the lumbar support is pumped all the way out. Never experianced, nor heard of that problem in any ES, or the rest of the Camry platform. If it were a problem, Toyota wouldn't be on their record setting sales spree this year.

Not me. 106,000 miles. But I did put 18,000 miles on it in the first 12 months I got the car.

I think you asked me on aim? or maybe someone else did. I would leave it down there until you feel like taking the upper intake manifold off to clean it, and get some power back.

Ditto. No broken glass detection. Not that anyone has any reason to break the glass. Inside joke guys... Don't mention why! :P

And any JDM hookups you can find.

Only Whiteline makes both. You might try fitting a FSB off a gen3 Camry/ES onto yours. May be a waste of an afternoona t the junkyard, and $20... Ours are bigger. :P If Whiteline thinks a gen4 Camry is unbalanced enough to need a fsb, it needs a fsb - Even worse in our cases, the ES having even more crap slung on it LoL! Pretty much end of story ;). They do suspension R&D out the waaaazo.

It's not valve ticking. The valvetrain rotates at a bare minimum of 350rpm. Toyota's modern hydraulic bucket lifters can easily go a half million miles without needing the bucket shims to be replaced. Stick your head in the engine bay and find where the noise is comming from with your ear.

Check the dogbone mount Clean the idle control valve

Whoops! My dumb !Removed! forgot the link. http://www.tt-cc.com/ratko/swap/ The '93 E-153 (v6 Camry/ES/Windom) got an upgraded synchro for 3rd gear. '97 E-153 (Solara) got all new synchros. Not really important, but just a tid-bit. IMHO, if you actually go through with the swap, when you buy your E-153, find a LSD from a Celica, and be the first to mix & match ES/Camry driveshafts to it to have an LSD.

Whiteline has F/R swaybars for gen4 camries (97-01 ES). They're nice. I love my Whiteline RSB, and end links. Otherwise, TRD has their two position RSB for the Solara that will fit. Whiteline is getting fairly hard to find in the US, you'll have to look around. Maybe just find someone in AUS that will import for you. Sway bars make a huge differance in handling. Put a RSB on and it's not difficult to get the rear end to step out with a quick flip, or the right amount of lift-off-oversteer. Body roll is many times better.

E-153 swaps have been done a bunch. It's the way you want to go if you ever have any performance aspirations. Ratko did the most popular write-up.

www.thefilehut.com or www.photobucket.com I like TFH more, more space. I'm on my third PB account. :P

1) Yes, you need a thermostat. Especially on a 3vz-fe. They run cold , and you really don't want to over-cool them. 2) Make sure the new radiator has a radiator cap on it. More, and more often replacement radiators will be for the later 1mz-fe engine's which have no cap. That cuts the boiling temperature of the coolant tremendously. The 3vz runs naturally colder than it should - during even our mild southern winters, you'll never notice the problem. As soon as it warms up outside, you'll overheat very, very quickly. 3) Replace the cap on both the engine outlet, and the radiator. Specifications are: the engine outlet specification is 12.1-16.4psi. The radiator is 13.5-17.8psi. 4) Overheating is often to happen on any car when replacing any thermostat. It is very common to get a defective part, or the wrong part. 5) Check that the water pump is working OK. When you say the fan operates normally. That means it speeds up when the air conditioning is turned on, or the engine is under use correct? Also, bridging E1, and OP1 in the diagnostic port makes the fan spin fast correct? Yes, overheating can be caused by a cracked/warped block, cylinder head, or blown head gasket. Most of the time the head gaskets blow. The block isn't prone to damage - while alu heads on iron blocks isn't always an ideal situation, the OEM head gaskets are so weak, the gasket will go long before the ALU head can get a chance to overheat and warp! :P

You're low on gas. It'll go on and off a bunch of times before you run out. It's an 18.5 gallon tank. To fill from empty is about 15-16 gallons for most people. - and the light is comming on at 2.5-3-3.5 gallons left, something like that. It's not tied to anything to give an error code. If it's really messing up I don't know where to start troubleshooting. I guess check the fuel sender in the tank, the wiring, and stuff.

I disagree with you SK for two reasons: 1) SS lines have horrible lifespans, and are a waste of money without road racing - They simply don't do crap. Don't waste money on them 2) SS lines will not fix this "problem". It's not a problem, it's how the system is designed to operate. exdotcomer tho the braking system is the most important in the car, it is by far the simplest mechanical system to deal with. I see no reason to take it anywhere when there is no problem. Kirill626 - Toyota doesn't make a wide production car with stiff brakes. It's a progressive throw. It's to enable non F1 drivers to always be able to stop in a very smoothe manner. The amount of pedal stiffness is directly related to pedal speed. If you quickly push the pedal the brake is instantly stiff, if you're not pushing it quickly it applies the brakes in a progressive fashion - It's an exponential rate of travel. Run it up to 70mph in clear traffic and quickly put the pedal to the floor... Ya... There's good brakes for this class of car. *DO NOT* confuse pushing the pedal quickly, with pushing the pedal HARD. Any quick motion will give a stiff pedal - it does not require shoving the pedal through the floor. Kirill626 sell the car, or get use to how non racing car brakes should work.

... Bridge E1 and TE1 and get the error code for the transmission. AFA the engine stalling it could be any number of things. Since the transmission ECM is storing a fault code, I'm more inclined to start by troubleshooting the torque convertor lock-up solenoid, then the shift solenoids. If the engine is stalling in neutral / park, than the stalling fault lies with the engine. Like I said tho... Start with the tc solenoid.

It's not a typical problem. Almost Every A/T, from every manufacture hides a shift-release button (to over-ride the ignition, brake, and shifter moutned button). It's there when you need it. Like steviej told you. It's very hard to duplicate such problems. When you try, and go through the system, more often than not, it's user error. Like forgetting to push the brake, or forgetting to have the ignition turned to the ON position.

Won't run guide. Cranking = turning over. Because this is the won't RUN guide, we assume the car cranks fine. Even so, the battery wires should be taken off and cleaned, even if they look OK. When the car cranks fine, but won't run, here's what you need to know! To run, an engine needs spark, fuel, compression, and they all have to happen at the right time! It's really that simple... **************************************** Let's start at the beginning. If you have any idling problem, you start with cleaning the Idle Air Control AKA Idle Speed Control (IAC, ISC - same thing) valve is clogged with carbon from the EGR system. If it's not clogged now, it will be in the future, and you just staved it off. It's not a question of if yours will clog. It's simply a question of when it clogs. Remove the valve, and clean it by hand. 1mz-fe's, it's located on the underside of the throttle body, and is held on by four phillips screws. On 2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe's, it's on the firewall side of the throttle body, held on by two 12mm bolts. 1mz-fe: 2vz-fe 3vz-fe: Next, check for vacuum leaks. Unplugged vacuum hoses, and especially cracks on the rubber hose that runs from the throttle body, to the air box. Yes... 75% of idle problems are that easy. If it's not the Idle valve, clogged with carbon, it's probably a vacuum leak. **************************************** Check for spark. Pull a single spark plug out, grounding it well to the frame. Turning the engine over, you should have a strong white spark. Old plugs, or weak spark will be a blue color. That does not directly spell a problem. As long as it is a strong spark, with some white in the blue color, the plug is fine. If you have a 2vz-fe, or 3vz-fe you have a distributor! Mark the distributor cap so you know it's orientation with paint, or a sharpie. They typically are held on by three screws, or three 10mm bolts. Check the rotor for small cracks - they *WILL* let moisture in. Check all of the contact points for corrosion. Check the rotor for corrosion. If any corrosion is present, you can take a small bit of emory paper (or very fine sand paper) and knock it off. If there is any suspect in the rotor, and cap, or you had to work them to get the car running - replace them. They're not $15 parts, and will go bad at some point. While the cap is off, note the orientation of the rotor and crank the engine. If the rotor moves, your timing belt is in-tact. 1mz-fe's use coil on wire. Distributor checks are irrelevant. Ignition timing is universally 10*btdc in all modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. It is only adjustable on distributor equipped vehicles. If ignition timing is off for no reason on a distributor equipped engine, this can be indicative of a slipped timing belt. Spark plug wires are NOT a typical wear item. If the car is kept inside, they regularly last 250,000 miles + before deteriorating. Simply said, if they are not grounding out, and the contacts are not damaged, they do NOT need to be replaced. Replacement wires ARE inferior... Spark plugs wires are also expensive! Ranging $90-$110usd for the v6 OEM replacement wires. Other than OEM wires, only use quality replacement wires, like Vitek, or extremely expensive ($250usd) Magnecor wires. No Auto store replacement wires! Spark plugs are important. DO NOT use split electrode type plugs, or American brands in general. The resistance is far different that what the Nippon-Denso ignition system is designed to work on. Simply put... You will have a problem with putting Bosch plugs in most Toyota's. Normally in a short amount of time. Only use Denso, or NGK plugs. NGK makes good generic plugs, that are very cheap (Typically on "permanent sale" in most areas for around $1-$2usd a plug). They are the OEM replacement plugs at most dealers (Surprisingly not Denso), they are not platinum, and last much longer than the 60,000 mile replacement interval. Making platinum plugs a complete waste of money. Iridium plugs are nice, with 80,000 up to 120,000 mile life spans! Unfortunately, you would never want them in a Toyota factory engine that long. Carbon build-up will make you clean spark plugs around 60,000 miles. Which makes you ask the question... Why pay $11-$15usd a plug, for something you have to take out and clean, when you can pay $1-$2 a plug, and simply replace it. If you have no spark at all. Check the 15amp EFI fuse (fuse box nearest battery). Check the 7.5 amp ignition fuse (same box). If still no ignition, Bridge E1 & TE1 in the Diagnostic's port (2vz-fe, and 3vz-fe) and make sure the Check engine light is flashing a stead on & off. If it is the computer is fine. The ignitor, coil/coil packs, and distributor can all be tested with a multi-meter, but go beyond this post. Ask for specific directions. **************************************** Check for fuel getting to the injectors / fuel rail! Fuel pressure at idle is normally only 30-35psig. If you are using a pressure gauge don't be shocked if you don't get at least 40psig. Testing for fuel is laughably easy. Start by taking the gas cap off, and putting it back on. That will de-pressurize the fuel system. If you have a cold-start injector (2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) Slowly unbolt the 12mm banjo bolt. If fuel starts draining out, you have no fuel problem. Otherwise, pull the rubber fuel hose off the fuel rail. Gas will pour out. If gas pours out, don't test the fuel pump, don't change the fuel filter, don't check the injectors. Check for compression, or re-check ignition. Forget the fuel filter... Like plug wires, they are NOT typical wear items in modern Japanese designed cars. They may claim 15,000-30,000 mile lives, you may hear it has a 15,000-30,000 mile. Barring the owner is a complete moron, and you pours dirt and debris in your gas. The simply fact is they all actually *need* to be replaced on a 100,000-150,000 mile cycle. Fuel pumps are easy to check. When you supply them voltage, they turn on. For Air-flow Meter cars (2vz-fe, 3vz-fe) The fuel pump will NOT turn on when you turn the ignition key is on. (except after an ECU reset) There is a switch in the air-flow meter that trips when the vane flap is sucked open (engine cranking). If you take your airbox apart and turn the iganition to ON, you can reach in and push the vane-flap open. Not only can you hear the fuel pump turn on. But you can hear, and feel the fuel injectors working. 1mz-fe's must apply battery voltage directly to the pump to check them. **************************************** Next check compression with a compression tester. On All modern, wide-scale Toyota production engines. Minimum compression is 142psig, maximum compression is 180psig. You want even compression across all cylinders. If there is compression problems across all cylinders, check the timing belt, and cam orientation. The belt may have slipped, or snapped. (or the cams installed incorrectly after a re-build) Otherwise, there could be a blown head gasket (Common on Toyota v6's from the late 80's through the late 90's), or bad rings. If compression tests OK, re-check ignition components, and check all the more in-depth parts skipped, or not tested.

The OEM's engineer them so the car will operate with mild modification (new fluids) from from -50*F in a blizzard, to 120*F in the middle eastern desert. The aftermarket is all about making money. The way it normally works, is the engineers make said product, then the marketing comes in during that time and scours them for selling points. Most of the time, it's just a replacement filter designed to be cheap. That's easy. Then you get into performance knock-off parts, which are cheap, but look like they do something. On top of the food chain is the real performance stuff. Some research, and design was done, but they wind up being mostly marketing hype. Like most things, it falls into that "allmost a good idea" catigory. Where it starts out a good idea, but simply doesn't work when it's done.

Change all the pullies, including the tensioner next time around.

It's worth $300 plus the money to fix it. The build quality puts it above volvo's saabs and audi's of the period. I hate to say it, but honestly. If you like performance, I would go for something late 80's, european, and factory turbocharged. Same size cars, about 80% of the build quality, a thousand times easier to add performance. If you have no performance aspirations, the 250 will suit you well.

Let's start off at the beginning. To each, his own - it's your car, float your own boat. To me... It's a total crock of dung on so many levels. Especially "performance" filters. 1) There IS no performance to be gained from the filter 2) A K&N costs me $40-$50. My f'ing TURBO was $60 SHIPPED. 3) My K&N went bone dry in less than four months. FOUR MONTHS. I question any "filtration" arguments's legitimacy for a few reasons. 1) It's... Basically hippo critical, without mentioning ignorant, to discuss the ability to filter particles, and dust out of the intake while the car is equipped with EGR. I laugh at any correlation to a few parts per million of "dust and dirt" being compared to pure, black, sooty exhaust 2) Barring the universe implodes, and gravitational forces reverse - there is no possible way a rock is going to jump behind the fender, and into the engine. Now, like I said. To each, his own. I hate all the performane filters. They're a total running joke for the reasons listed above. That's just my point of view, having strongly made such point of view, I'm done discussing filters now. I hate them LoL! ;) But do whatever you want. It's your car.