Toysrme

If it's pre-mixed that's fine. Don't go adding straight anti-freeze. You'll make the overheating problems worse.

Ya that's OK. The engine has three, or four different grounding points of it's own to begin with.

You can put fluid in, but you don't need to open the radiator for two, or three hours after it's been run. It will blow pressureized steam out. Start with the CEL. Bridge TE1 and E1 with a wire and count the flashes. With the car idling, bridge OP1 and E1 and make sure the hydraulic fan goes to it's fast speed.

If the refferance material is in disagreement on Gates. You can see that a '97+ Camry engine is listed as interferance, when there was no cam change on that engine - while the vvt-i ES engine has no such marking. vvt-i Variable Valve Timing with intelligence Toyota did not varry cam profiles of the 1mz-fe when they vvt-i AFAIK. VVT-i Only only varries the timing of the intake valve. You can varry the timing all you want, but if the lift of the cam lobe doesn't push the valve into an intersecting path with the piston -> it will be non-interferrance no matter what the timing is. http://www.mr2sc.com/websites/articles/vvt.htm Wulf if you are serious about selling it, forget the timing belt for now.

I hate you're having so many problems! I'll tell you the *real* problem... Was that f'ing hurricane LoL! I don't know if you were on a cel, but I think everyone was having phone problems from here to there. I talked to a friend in Miama & I couldn't hear him for squat. Before you get the heads off, check compression over again. That way since the gasket is new, it'll be obvious if compression is down if there is a ring problem. Code 24 Intake Air temperature sensor. It's been my experiance that it's easy to short them out (They're very succeptable to getting hit with liquids and it takes quite a little while for them to dry back off). The engine won't run a limp mode, but it will throw the annoying ECU light until it dries out and the ecu is reset (pull the EFI fuse, count to one-nanosecond, and put it back) The actual sensor is a little thing that hangs down in the front of the air-flow meter. On the 12-24 diagram it's B3 comming from the AFM. (Blue wire - black stripe)

It's been so long since I ditched it from my car I don't exactly remember. :( The EGR pipe is held into the rear exhaust manifold by a JIC compression fitting. That EGR pipe snakes up through a "block" that runs under the upper intake that is water cooled (most people thing the throttle body is cooled, actually it's not, the coolant flows through the EGR to cool it down, and exits the throttle body). The EGR "block" dumps the exhaust into the bottom of the intake manifold (in a seperate chamber) that routes it to the EGR valve, then the rest is obvious. Valve controls the flow and routes it back into the upper intake manifold. AFAIR there's nothing else to it. You take your bolts off, and pull the entire assembly off. It's a little exhaust gasket, I don't remember it being a silicon glue or anything (that would more than likely melt). The little actuators on top simply pul off.

Sure you can try that - I mean seriously it's your car! If it's a stuck solenoid, that may loosen up wahtever has frozen it. The most common practice is to hit a solenoid if they don't trigger to see if it's stuck. Ask as many questions as you want. If it bothered anyone, we would ignore it, or make fun of you.

I'm assuming that is a typo? When you check the resistance, you check it to G-. NE to G- G1 to G- G2 to G- I would take the tester to the autopart store and have them open a new one and test it. You're an engineer / mechanic, make sure the multi meter is dialed in before testing - if it has a manual control.

Ah, the 99+ service is 90,000 miles. You're right.

Fixing seat belts is normally covered to some extint by federal law. You shouldn't have to pay anything. Check the alt output. The car does not run off the battery when the engine is running. All cars dim to some extint. Especially when adding, or replacing electrical equipment. (high power stereo, misc lighting) If your alt checks out OK try upgrading the big three. Most of the time, if you don't add load to the system, or add a small load, upgrading the big three will improve the dimming. Original big 3 post on car-domain. 1) Battery negative to chassis 2) Alternator to battery positive 3) Chassis to engine In importance 1) Alt to battery positive 2) battery negative to chassie 3) Chassie to engine ground

Ya I caught the e-mail you sent. I don't have the factory manual on that, but here's what Haynes has to say: 1) Disconnect negative battery terminal. 2) Use a small screwdriver to pry up on the rear edge of the shift bezel to detach it, then lift it off. 3) Remove the rear console retaining the screws. 4) Detach the rear console and lift it out. 5) Remove the front console retaining screws, detach the front console and lift it out. 6) Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. I didn't realize that was the set of directions you wanted hah! My bad!

You are incorrect. 99% of all Toyota mainstream engines are non-interferrance, that includes yours. No damage is done when the timing belt fails. Toyota recommends changing timing belts every 60,000 miles, along with the accessory parts removed during the change (accessory belts, water pump etc.).

What are you takling about? You simply unbolt the valve from the intake, and from the EGR pipe. Toyota Repair Manual My 3vz-fe EGR valve that I deleted for basic refferance.

Toyota Repair Manual:

They've been done on gen3 Camries. Search Toyota Nation.

A wire shorting, or a faultly triggering switch / relay. Join ToyotaNation.com and ask there.

That's what you get for putting illegal re-based bulbs into a halogen housing. Have fun blinding people left and right :chairshot:. At least when I did mine, I took my pojectors a part and spent a few days modifying the cut-off's and bulb stand off length to produce a good cut-off. Now to the problem. Just shape the pins for them to fit. Newbs use a file or grinder. Smart people use a soldiering iron because that's much faster, and neater. Just like swapping any other bulb.

No you're right. Inspect the shift overlock.

Pull the EFI fuse.

You're loosing spark, or you're loosing fuel.

Two, with a bracket and wiring installed for a third hidden in there. Check the fuses, you probably blew one.

They could be. Check them. Open the diagnostic port and bridge E1 and TE1, count the CEL flashes. I would get a '92+ The cost isn't much more.

What steve told you. There are wheel speed sensors for ABS / trac on each wheel. There is a speed sensor in the transmission. Which one do you want?

Dragging caliper, or dragging parking brake. Take your pick.

I'll call you tomorrow, I have some questions.