Toysrme

Jack, and a wood block. Gentally jack up the engine under the oil pan so you can take one mount off at a time without the entire thing falling.

There are three plugs. One headlight, one high-beam, one turn signal. Turn those to unlock & pull the bulbs out. There are three bolts that hold the headlights in. They should be 12mm. You can get some 9005 (high beam) bulbs like Silverstars, grind one of the tabs down (Honestly it's easier to melt it off than grind/file/cut it) and you can fit that into the low-beam housing (9006). You'll get a little bit more light on the road. 9005's don't have the reflectice coating on the front of the bulb, and use 15% more power (so 15% more light). it's a noticeable differance, but not close to HID's.

It might be. Check it cold too. ;) But yes, Too much transmission fluid will eventually damage some seals and the pump really doesn't care for the added fluid over time.

Good luck. If you need any help (Doesn't really sound like it) You can hit me up on AIM or call the house.

I may plumb back to the stock res. If I do that, I'll grab a spiral flow muffler (for a resonator) and a Borla Pro XS, or, or may not, and leave it venting to the atmosphere 'cause I like it, and I'm lazy. Either way it'll perk up & sound better when it's not so rich it's tripping over itself. This has not so much to do with sound, and everything to do with the 14-15psi blowing out the biz end of the turbo. No "psssssshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" cause the turbo wasn't blowing into anything. Maybe this weekend.

Get stuff to clean the mildew & mold out. Be sure you stick in a new cabin filter also. I would buy a good filter at wall-mart and cut it to fit before I would be caught dead buying the few overpriced things Toyota/Lexus dealers sell.

Exhaust-I Exhaust-II Two things to understand: 1) The car is uber rich, having not been run on the new pump, and I haven't re-tuned the SMT-6 to compensate. 2) The only sound deading is the Turbo. No muffler/Resonator 3) It was a *BLEEP*ty mic, so it's going to be more tinny than it really is (It's deep as a mother-*BLEEP*ing right now) Because of 2 & 3 it's high, raspy and loud. I'll re-use the stock resonator to get the rasp out whenever I get around with it to kill the rasp. In actuality, the only part hanging below the frame rails is the wastegate actuator. It peeps it's head down about 1". So no, I doubt it'll ever get ripped off. Maybe next time me and my friend get together for an Import Hill Climb it might get dirty. But that's the worst I think it'll ever see. I really like how it goes wwwweeeeeEEEEEEEE .... SSSSssssss .... ER!!! That's cool =) In short. If you're not Sean McElligott, Tony Lueng, or Justin, My exhaust kicks your exhaust's !Removed!!!!

Looks good. Too bad they don't let yall tint the front more.:cries: Now get some of the silver tinted turn singals to put in them. Remember, orange tinted bulbs in clear corners are as rice as the OEM ones are ugly! :lol:That's a joke, but some truth to it. ;)

Yes, if you're trying to ford a river. Otherwise no. You're going to have other serious problems if you're driving through water deep enough to injest it to begin with.

No, the seals, and oil are not compatible. The compressor would kick on and last between 20 seconds, and 20min before all the seals would blow out, or the unit itself was damaged. It's hard to find Freon in many states, but not impossible. Here (Alabama) many places still sell the canisters to recharge it, the trick is that you can only buy small canisters if you're not liscenced! The price premium is not astronomically higher. You're talking like $15-20 to recharge a system with r134a, it might cost you 30-40 to do it in freon at most. If worse comes to worse and you can't find any locally, check ebay. Just remember that *real* freon is R-12. There are some "compatible" newer refridgerants out there that supposidly work, but I've never used any myself. Trust me, freon is tons colder anyways. Stick with the freon! I love mine! LoL! ;) You can also get Freon to r134a recharge kits. I don't really recommend that. I know a few mechanically inclined people that have done it and blown seals. (Go figure) I would let a real mechanic do that, just so if something hapens a week later, you can take it back to them.

Drive the car around 10 min, park and idle. Check the fluid level. If the fluid level is OK, check the kick-down cable. Search my name and quicker transmission shifting, or scroll back a few pages.

I like shoving the worn rubber out and replacing it with 3M polyurathane window sealer. Waaaaay stronger than the stock rubber. Much less rocking around. I would suggest anyone with a strut tower bar that's within 1" of knocking the manifold to do that.

The long term fuel trims take a while to be set in OBD-II. If it's getting better every time he drives it enough to warm the enigne up, the LTFT's are being adjusted. Pull the EFI fuse, count to one and put it back in. That'll clear the fuel trims and make it re-learn them. It takes the ECU less time to start fresh and trim, than it does for it to re-program old trims that are on the opposite side of how it's being trimmed. (vacuum leaks lean it out some what - the cracked intake hose accomplished that!) SK one of out other drummers in high school did that with his pimp wagon. Turned one of his four washer nozzels backwards and bored it out. FYI an 80lph fuel pump in the washer tank will squirt a thick stream of water about 20-25' out of 1/4" ID! ;) Just a thought hah!

Just pointing it out steve. ;) Berry you did great! The temp light is off, but as long as the needle moves into the range it's OK. I think you can access the O/D light in one of the diagnostic ports. I forget which, but I think the one under the dash in the driver's foot well. Sitting in the driver's seat, kick straight up with your left foot. Where your shin hits there is a second little white Diagnostic's port. I think it's in that one. Look for (obviously) something like O/D, or ETC. If you have a volt meter, you can plug into it (and E1 - ground) and watch for a voltage. It'll probably be something like 0 volts for O/D on, and 12v for O/D off. Some kind of pattenr like that. (I'm guessing, never played with it) Here's what I think happened. I bet it had been a problem for while, and the transmission stored the code. Tripping the O/D light for a long time and burning the light out. I'm guessing it's a malfunctioning #1 shift solenoid valve. If you have a volt meter (or multi meter) you can test it through the diangostics port. From the OBD-I Toyota transmission repair/diagnostics manual: In L, obviously you will read 0-1v. In D, you ought to read 0-1 volts, then swap to 2 volts when it changes to second gear. From the Toyota A540-E A541-E repair manual: See if your shifting follows the #1 shift solenoid malfunction colum in this table: If it looks like a solenoid is dead, I would take it to a mechanic and tell them you think X is dead. Saving a bunch of money VS a rebuild, new unit, or hours of diagnostic fees. They're a pain in the !Removed! to change out (unless it's a simple bad electrical connection), so I'll forgo the repair directions for now unless you think that's the problem & wanna give it a go. Anyways, I think that may be the problem, but I wouldn't rule anything else out yet. Just me "thinking out loud".

Sk is correct. It doesn't matter where you get it from, they *all* are crap, designed to make "un-enlightened"(N.O.) people buy them to turn a massive profit. I recommend not buying one at all. It's a bling modification.It has no performance bearing. A strut bar gives that last 1% handling/feel increase after you've spent a couple thousand on coil overs, sway bars, and tires. Trust me... You can't *buy* a strut tower bar strong enough to work on this car ready made. They simply do not exist. All of them are not only so weak, that they simply bend with the chassis (without doing crap), but they use something around a 5/16" studs so they can be "adjustable", and fit many cars. Not to mention, there are only a hand full that won't bump the upper intake manifold every time the engine/transmission rocks. (throttle position change, gear change, acceleration, deceleration) (Even with good mounts) Yes guys that's correct... That $15-$250 5lb stick of weak metal (or even worse carbon fiber... God don't get me started) is *really* going to help the two 60lb frame crossmembers that the engine sits on. (N.O again) Skip the strut bar is my vote! If you're looking for handling, start with a rear sway bar. Whiteline, or TRD. I like Whiteline. Top notch stuff! Want a strut tower brace that works??? Then swap in an i4 out of a Camry so there is engine bay room and weld a solid bar in between them! <_<

Yes, they cross into most of the 80's-pre'94 vehicles Toyota made. Most of them have EFI ignition through a distributor, and an AFM (instead of a MAF, MAP, or KV). No, it doesn't work for you. You'd have to find someone to re-work the stock ECU, or install a piggyback<s>. Yall have a transmission throttle cable if I remember correctly. You can play with that.

He did. It's hidding in the information somewhere.

I also would suggest an alignment. Even if it is only .05* off. It gives you a starting point. Simply how this platform is designed, once it's set, barring any major problems, you can hit large stuff without an alignment problem! I had a friend in a '94 Avalon run over an aluminum ladder on the interstate. Blew the front left tire, but when checking the alignment, it was dead on! The tires nearly never wear evenly front to back, even when rotated. Tho both Toyota/Lexus recommend 32psi (and Europe 38psi) all around, it is impossible for them to wear evenly. (Less you rotate very often. Say every 3,000 miles.) The front / rear weight distribution is hideous. Just look at the tires when they're all set at 32psi. Those fronts look awful!

Wire, paperclip, anything conductive and bent... And here you see how the CEL and O/D flashes on and off (among other things) Flip the black plastic cover up, shove something between E1 and TE1, and make sure the O/D light is flashing on/off at the same speed. You just tchanged transmission fluid man. This is not advanced LoL! Something is not right... I think it might be the way you are describing being "stuck in second gear" like you're skipping first gear completely. From a dead stop put it in drive and start accelerating like normal, to say 55mph. Roughly how many rpm are you turning when you hit 25mph?

Seafoam kicks the *BLEEP* out of everything else you'll find. Yet costs $5 a can. It's a top notch fuel cleaner (Better than auto-rx) I use it in my oil, and transmission. (Add half a can) (Trans-tune is the inverse formula of engine seafoam) It does exactly what it's suppose to do. It dissolves sludge buildups, and eventually starts stripping the baked on varnish. Change the oil and add then recommended amount. DO NOT SHORT CHANGE IT. Leave it in until the next scheduled change (Same with trans-tune). They don't do much if they don't have the time in the enigne to do so... The most typical use is pouring 1/3-1/2 of a can in the intake through a vacuum tube to clean the heads, valves, and combustion chamber of carbon build-up. Crank the engine and have someone rev it to 2000rpm. Pull a vacuum hose off (I like the front valve breather isntead of the brake booster line. The FVB get's better distrobution. The brake booster distributes most of the fluid to the front bank) and insert a funnel. Pour out 1/3-1/2 of the can & immediatly cut the ignition. Put the hose back on. Let the engine sit 10 min. Crank the engine & let it idle for 5 min. You will get the most ebarrasingly glorious smoke cloud ever!!! Seriously... You can fill a two-three bocks with THICK smoke. (Sometimes black, sometimes white, older cans will sometimes be light blue - hence the name) One it's idled for 5 min, drive it until it stops smoking, and be sure to get on the gas while you're driving around to help burn it out. When it stops smoking you're done. When adding to the fuel system, wait until you are near empty, and dump in a full can before you fill up.

If the fluid is that blackish, always start with the fluid! If it's really, really dark, and you're not comfortable flushing it out, drain the pan & refill (dip-stick) drive around the block. Drain the pan again & refill. That changes (statistically) more than half the fluid out. Dump in a $5 can of Seafoam Trans-Tune. That'll help clean the crap stuck in the restof the old fluid. It may fix it, it may not. You amy do it and the entire things falls out of the car the next day. But you can't diagnose much on an A/T if the fluid is worn out. (Or it's not an obvious problem/TCCU code) Speaking of which. All the ECU's they used on 3vz-fe's... are about the most tolerant things of all time. They hardly ever throw a code. Open either of the diagnostic ports. Take something (wire, paperclip) andbridge E1 and TE1. Make sure the O/D light flashes on/off quickly and never changes speed. If there is a tranny code, it will show up then. The torque convertor lock-up may, or may not be the problem. I was just throwing ideas out there.

Penitrating oil is your friend. I've taken my entire exhaust apart (including the manifolds) and never had a problem on my '93. Lucky I guess. I know people that have snapped the studs out before with air tools. Use a 3/8" wratchet first. Tis better to get them off that way, than risk destroying everything on there and having to run around to a n ut and bolt house and buy new ones. (Tho that wuoldn't cost like $5) (This car has been a 100% Alabama/Florida car, no snow, no salt, perfect climate.)

Wow. A new bumper? That's rough. The bumpers use on the gen3-gen5 Camry platform (92-present ES) are tough as nails. Normally they just bend a ton while busting the tiny mounts on the bottom. I want some pics man, that dude hit you hard!

I wouldn't let you either. No offince, but you're more likely to wreck / sell that car and buy something smaller, newer, and ricier. To each, his own. If you really like the silly rice stuff like that, ToyotaNation.com, and Solaraguy.com. You'll find millions of friends!

I love the denso filters. There are two styles used in all of Toyota-land (on Toyota/crown/lexi cars). One costs $3 from a Toyota dealer parts counter, the other costs $4.50. One is slightly larger. You got the larger one. 90915 is what they list for nearly every v6 made in the last 20 years. Don't get the wrong impression. You can buy the slightly smaller oil filter if you feel like it. Unless you're doing something like a twin filter AMSoil setup, the filters are OK many times longer than most oils will last. Oils are designed to be the main filtration system themselves. Part of thier job is to simply collect all the junk floating around (Engine, transmission, Power Steering, it goes on and on). The filters don't even *begin* to get the oil clean most of the time! If you're on a tight budget, spend all your money on quality oil, and throw a filter on. The good news is Toyota filters are not only very cheap, they're top notch. So you there really isn't any reason to not drive to a Toyota parts counter and buy a few at one time. (I have two of what you have in the basement, and one sitting in my floorboard waiting for an oil change LoL! If you're talking filtration VS flow rate, Denso filters kick about everyone's !Removed!.