SKperformance

take it back and let them look at it they may have adjusted the brakes and it is grabbing too much now

your problem is the safc remove it and use something else to tune it is a common problem for some where it will not keep the settings causeing a bad setup of base settings again

synthetic is amazing in hot and cold they should sell it in the states as well as in canada i have and will always use synthetic for it additional wear reduction no leaks ever in any car if it gets one it is because you already had one that the regualr oil plugged up the engine is designed for basic dino but the physical properties of synthetic is much better as all it is ,is the same dyno oil but a synthetic filtering process to remove the waxes and purify the oil it isn't like synthetic is from a tree or something just the same oil but without impurities

mine even mixed doesn't look pink,it is deep red but i haven't bought any new stock of coolant from the toyota parts desk in a while maybe they reformulated it but i haven;t seen it

the ES with a 1mz-fe engine is obd 2

the insurance guy will probably send it to a shop anyway to get it on a lift if it is suspension related damage but why is it totalled what needs replacing besides let the insurance total it and buy it back and ix it by buying used parts from a wrecker for cheap

in my 94 i get 500-600km per 70 liter tank the lgith comes on and i have atleast 100km left till empty not that this helps on a newer model ,but as a base line

put it this way a tc with a higher stall rate will put the engine when reved with the brake on (the stall speed is what the rpms stop at with the gas pressed all the way down when on the brake) into it torque curve better as you will get more torque depending on the engines rpm like 2200 which is usually a normal stall speed might be 200 but at 2600rpm it might be producing 260 hp so you can launch better just like a manual tranny ,you don't idle and drop the clutch you redline and then dump the clutch with a higher stall tc it is already in gear in an auto so you get going with more power hope this makes sense

try a single keyword searh as i think someone posted pictures of it repair a while ago

try tapping the starter with a hammer it it starts right after then you need to chaneg the contacts or the solenoid to the starter besides don't feel bad my friend has a testerossa and all of those owners walk with a hammer for the same problem so you are in with the big boys no need to be embaressed paint it red and black so it is ferrai colours

you will never be able to find any kind of new alternator unless it is a brand new car with warrenty as the rest just go back as a core charge and get rebuit a new one might be 700 if you found it anywhere but it is no difference as it is only the old casing cleaned but with brand new internals

i must be rubbing off ;)

as i stated in the faq the squakers are useless for any aftermarket modifications they sounds like they are called if played alone if you get new 5 or 6's for the door they are not needed

your getting yourself lost in asking a question with a question i buy the toyota coolant from a toyota parts desk,that and only that the green you understand why gm engineering is what it is crappy at the best take a drive in a new escalade my firend has one it has more deficencies or manufacturing than i can belive but i am now spoiled by toyota over engineering or what seems to be like the infamous 95 and onward defective fuel sending units that gm blames all gas companies for fouling it and making there cars give the wrong readings or the 10 plus recall issues that almost every car has btw i am not arguing just stating points and trying to answer you questions

it is a possiblitiy but before you condem the wiper motor disconnect the arm mechanism and see if it moves freely first i had a friend a week ago with his wiper motor in peices and i asked why he said it was getting real hot and not moving i asked if he checked the mechanism ,he said no when he looked the passenger side wiper had gotten stuck behind its base holder ad would not move he ot a cheap fix with alot of wasted time i doubt that is your problem as it moves still but the mech might be rusted a bit and could use some lube

I know a guy who has a ton of old stock and is clearing it out gold emblems ,tail pipes ,antenna nuts , grilles wheel center caps and other peices all excellent quality and clear coated to last also comes with new 3m tape to eaily install post what you need and i will find out if he has it year, make, and peice needed to give you a price if he still has it left mainly 1990 - 1997 all lexus models

01 one will not fit the 93 for sure as it is in the grille compared to on top of and it size

you have a belt change at about 100 000 km always change the water pump with the belt it is a couple of bucks more for labour and thermostat every other t belt change guess how i know to change my pump everytime mine blew 20 000 km after the belt was changed

you are putting alot of strain on a car by running all the high drain accessories at once especially at idle if the batt light comes on TURN THEM OFF immediatly and let the car high idle at about 2000 rpm for 2 minutes atleast to be able to keep some voltage inteh battery for a restart. if the regulator isn;t up to par it will cause the alt to not put out enough so it is probaly a bad alternator but i still say check the wires and replace the starter and main ground with new ones. They are the life blood of the electrical system to the car.

it takes about 30 minutes per wheel to change the brake pads x4 it is about 2 hours x shop rate of 60 should be 120 the most for labour and the brakes about 60 and 60 each total 240 the squeal is normal as it is rust from moisture being broken off initally after driving. the niose needs to be isolated first as some cars are the bushings others are mounts and some are the struts.

click on your name on the side bar then on the new page click on "find all post by this user" then find which one it is.

dexcool is the coolant made for the engine the orange stuff the pink stuff is prestones new global antifreeze compatible with either type and mix find a lexus with coolant clumping and sludge in the coolant using dexcool then make an assumption the coolant is bad you won;t and who is everyone? and cars running the regular green where designed for it i have the green in my civic it works great as are millions of other cars and dex in my lex and gm not a clump ever when a lack of maintance or other problems come into play anything can happen especiallly if the coolant is contaminated with bad water or ther worng coolant if dex was so bad you think toyota would still use it?

for the same options i would go wit the 98 as it is a certified perowned lexus they only resell the best used ones the rest get wholesaled

a common problem of sc's is the heater control valve leaking at the firewall it is intermittent and can let air in the system as well as a disapearing coolant problem look for the old thread to see the pics of where to look and how to fix the reason i mentioned that changing to green is bad is because it is not made for the car it is not compatible with the seals hoses or other metals more than just it seems ok so i will use it problem. GM cars are crap i have one ,had one and worked for them they have problems no matter what thanks to there great engineering so don;t blame the dex-cool for an engine just being a lump of..... using the wrong coolant can cause lots of problems the least of it being a new engine

those guys are not bad but they rape you because of the L ask for a toyota camry price same glass and acessability just the es is pillar less so it should be cheaper. we have a meet tommorow night most lexus owners don;t run around in the snow ,like me my car is in the garage for the past month. http://www.toyotanation.com/showthread.php...39&pagenumber=3 here is the thread for tommorow night we are joing for japanese food at 404 and steeles