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About Ronstang66

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  • Lexus Model
    1992 LS 400
  • Lexus Year
  • Location
    Texas (TX)
  1. Starter on my 92 went out back in 2009, little did I know how intensive the replacement process. Luckily mine was just burnt contacts which cost me $5 to replace.....unluckily my car has never run correctly since and sits now 9 years later. It runs but has a miss I cannot pinpoint. The plastic on all the wiring was so brittle many connectors either disintegrated or broke to some degree. I had to replace all the injector plugs. The worst part was the intake was so warped it wouldn't seal.....and it's a known issue since there is a warpage tolerance in the Lexus manual.... DOH!! Fixed that issue by taking the intake to my machine shop and fly cut it all perfect. Once the vacuum leak was fixed it still did not cure the miss. Since I had to take it apart all over again I decided to replace the timing belt, belt tensioner, water pump, both distributor caps, rotors, plug wires, and spark plugs. The engine has perfect compression across all eight cylinders even at 138K miles. Engine is perfect but the car still had a miss so all I can assume is it's electica. I never was able to pinpoint the issue so the car just sits. I've been working on and restoring cars since 1977 and I've worked on hundreds of cars and this is the first one I was never able to identify or correct the problem. I can't see how you guys can work on these old Lexus cars these days as all the plastic under the hood turns to dust, and my problem was 9 years ago. I'm sticking with my classic cars, they don't have electronics to fail and leave you with a perfectly good car mechanically that is now useless because of the failure of a part that a not available or simply not traceable. Now I need to just get rid of this car, sad because it was a nice car at one time.
  2. The seals that I got were too big and fit loosely on the injectors without the pintle caps. I found a place in town that had the caps and the guy gave them to me. This issue is resolved but now I am tackling the timing belt, water pump, and valve cover gaskets since the car is so far apart already.
  3. You can't offend me. I have been working on cars for 30 years and learned a long time ago to ask questions when you get stumped and to be prepared to find out you did something wrong. I am not sure what you mean by "connection #2" on the injectors. If you can clarify that I will double check the wiring on all the injector plugs just to make sure. I was careful to only cut one plug off at a time and keep the connectors clocked properly but that doesn't mean I didn't mess one or two up. It happens. I did use new gaskets also, and since I now have the upper intake off once again I will replace them again. I did find the problem. You were correct earlier. The injector seals are bad and so are the coatings on the bottom of the injector pintle caps so just putting new seals on is not going to solve the problem. I have to call a local injector rebuilder in the morning to see if they can replace the caps for me. They are never going to seal any other way. Thanks
  4. I cleared the codes today and now there are none. I also listened to the engine along the tops of the valve covers very carefully with a stethoscope and everything sounds normal and consistent from cylinder to cylinder. I guess I either have a vacuum leak, miswired one of the injectors or one is sticking after sitting for 2 months, or I could have a damaged spark plug wire that is just not visibly arcing. Steve...I did not replace the o-rings so that could be the problem but there are no fuel leaks. I could not get the lower intake off without removing the fuel rails as some of the bolt to the lower manifold were blocked by them.
  5. I don't mind doing the job over if it fixes the problem but can you explain how and why the knock sensor could be causing a rough idle?
  6. I am really not sure what is happening here. I had to repair my starter and everything has gone south due to this what should be a simple problem. The engine now idles rough with a definite small popping in the exhaust. The check engine light stays on constantly and the only code registered is 52 which is the No. 1 knock sensor signal. Over half of the injector wire plugs fell apart during disassembly. I had to order a complete new set and solder them into place. I used self sealing heat shrink and all the connections were good. I can't see how I could have gotten any wired in backwards as I did them one at a time and was careful to keep them oriented the same way. Is there a polarity issue here? Could this possibly be my problem. I really don't know what to do here. I need this car fixed ASAP but cannot locate the problem. Could a vacuum leak make it run this rough? What side is the No. 1 knock sensor on, the passenger or driver's side? I could really use some guidance as I am really frustrated and have been without this car for 3 months now due to a starter that simply had burnt contacts. This is getting ridiculous. Thanks in advance, Ron
  7. Thank you very much. I knew there had to be a simple way to do this. Now I just hope I can figure out what is wrong with this car and fix it.
  8. I repaired my starter and after putting the car back together it now has a miss at idle and it is showing a constant check engine light. The code scanner at O'Reilly's does not plug into the port under the dash so I do not know how to check the codes on this car. I am sure there is a way to make the car tell you by flashing the check engine light but I cannot find that information. I am hoping you guys can help me out here. Thanks in advance. Ron