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About 1991LS400

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    Advanced Club Member
  • Birthday 04/10/1982

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    91 LS 400
  1. Have you gone through this? -> It is especially interesting to note what the author says within this tutorial..."My first test drive the sensor was set too low and it caused very jumpy highway performance." I've read through that and attempted to follow it but I'm not sure whether I'm supposed to be doing the TPS adjustment when the car is on and in PARK or on and in DRIVE or NEUTRAL. Because in PARK, my car is idling at 1,300 RPM and in DRIVE or NEUTRAL it's idling at around 800 RPM.
  2. Yes, TB was cleaned when it had to be removed to replace the starter. I'm thinking it has something to do with the TPS, like steve2006 said. Just not sure how to go about checking it.
  3. Yes, it does the same when in park/neutral. How do you diagnose a "flat spot" on the TPS? Don't crucify me for this but my TPS was purchased new from AutoZone a few months ago. I wouldn't think such a small part like that would make much difference from OEM, right? Maybe I didn't adjust it correctly as I'm not sure how to go about doing it.
  4. Car: 91 LS 400 Problem: When stepping on the gas pedal (accelerating), the engine speed/RPM's drop whenever I hit 3k RPM's and then "kicks" itself back into gear before attempting to reach over 3k RPM's during acceleration. If I let go of the gas pedal and then try to accelerate again, as soon as RPM's hit 3k, it drops again and then "kicks" itself back into gear (or regular speed) while accelerating. Basically, the car "pulls back" on me for a second at 3k RPM's every time when accelerating and then lunges forward as if it's regaining it's normal speed/RPM's. Before I keep on rambling, do
  5. That's all fine and dandy. But please, does anyone have any manuals showing how to get to and remove the alternator? I just want assumptions on what the case may be. If the battery is dead, I'll buy a new one. If the alternator is dead, I'll buy a new one. But I'd rather only have to change one thing at a time. And obviously, between a battery and an alternator, we all know it will take more time to switch out an alternator.
  6. Hey guys, here's yet another technical question... The other day, what I THOUGHT to be a starter problem ends up being either a battery and/or an alternator problem. A friend of mine charged up my battery with some cables and after about a minute or two my car turned on with NO problem. I drove it around for a few minutes and then parked it again. The next day, I came out to turn on my car and it was dead again. Same repeated clicking when I turn the key all the way. I can tell the interior lights were dimmer than the day before when my friend charged my battery up. My battery is only
  7. man, you guys are all awesome. Yeah, I got time to do this. A friend of mine is helping me so I say if we go at it we should be able to get it done within 2 days, 3 TOPS (working at a reasonable pace that is). I've stripped NEARLY the entire front end of my engine off just to change the damn fan bracket that busted on me a year ago. That was tedious, especially having to work on my back to get the fan bracket out and put the new one in. I expect this starter job to be just as tedious, if not less tedious than the fan bracket change. Maybe it'll be a bit harder but hopefully not by much.
  8. what about the WHOLE project makes it most difficult?
  9. Thanks for the help guys. This is gonna be hell...or maybe it won't be.
  10. Does anyone have a diagram or know of a website that shows how to change the starter in a 1991 LS 400? Maybe someone can just write a good walkthrough for me on here. Thanks guys!
  11. SKperformance and CUMan, thank you both for all of your help! unfortunately, I figured it out myself this morning before reading both of your guys' posts but yes, you guys were right, that skinny wire with the white plastic clip was the source of the problem and was the reason why the fan wouldn't turn faster when the A/C was on and the car was idling. too bad I wasted $130 on the coolant temp sensor and the coolant temp switch. Oh well, I already replaced those two things, anyways, the old ones looked like they were going to crack in half anyway. so I guess those two things are out of the
  12. but the mechanic here at the shop said he would change the hydraulic motor on the fan because that's "most likely" the problem. he said nothing about that solenoid on the power steering pump. how would I know if the hydraulic pump on the fan is bad or if it's the solenoid by the power steering pump? I also noticed a skinny wiring harness that has a small white plastic clip unconnected near the back of the engine, passenger side, right by the firewall that was disconnected. I couldn't see where it would have originally been connected to. I have no idea if that unconnected wiring has anythi
  13. UPDATE: - changed both the coolant temperature sensor and the coolant temperature switch - no coolant leakage from the water pump/thermostat area - ONLY starts overheating when car is idle with A/C on for 5 minutes or more, does NOT overheat while car is driving (even with A/C on or off) diagnosis? hydraulic fan problem?
  14. Overheating problem. This morning while driving for 30 min, with the A/C on, I noticed that at one point in my trip I was idling in traffic for a while when I noticed my temp gauge going up to red drastically. Then the engine started smoking from the coolant reservoir side. I opened the hood to find the coolant ABOVE the full line and bubbling hot. It was so hot, the rubber cap had popped off and coolant was bubbling out of the coolant reservoir (overflow tank). Immediately afterwards, a check engine light came on. I read it with the OBDII and it stated the following: P0115 Engine Cool
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