UCF3

First, there's no LSD in the SC, as the others said. Second, the car corrects itself on black ice and snow and won't even do a donut??? I've been trying to drive mine in the snow for the past couple of days, all seasons and tons of cat litter in the trunk, it's still terrible....for you to say you can't even do a donut in snow and ice is crazy. <_< Lex, why? I know the SC300 doesn't have a lot of torque, that one of the factors to not being able to do a good donut. Let me describe it a little better. On Black Ice, the car starts the donut turn, then slows down, and then it starts to drag the front end, and then the power shifts to the slipping wheel. Any thoughts? If it was a 100%open diff., the turn should be much smaller, instead of the larger one I've been getting. I know if I had a 20-60% limited slip, it should wabble sideways, and not be able to make a donut. Plus, the previous owner never installed a limited Diff. on this car. he doesn't even know what it is.

I'm not familiar with the Wings West Spoiler. Any pics?

Okay guys: I have a 95 SC300 5speed, and for the past 3days, I've been trying to do donuts and drift on snow and black Ice. I can't do it. The car keeps correcting itself. My tires are virtually bald, and I've been pushing it on black ice. As part of my training, I learned how to drift, and cars with open diffy are the easiest ones to do it on. My car never corrected itself, unless I told it to. I honestly don't believe it's an open diffy.

Is it real Wood with vaneer or something fake?

No, that's cool. Any info that helps our readers with what they want is good.

A CD Holder? <_< Interesting

shinryuhoshi: If you're willing to wait, I'm planning to open a shop in Maryland within the next 3 months. I'll have our Admins post a newsletter about it once, we're operational.

I would go with the SC300. More manageable. I will say, if you take a used SC to the dealer, they're likely to take you on a ride (very Expensive, depending where you live) Personally I'm a DoIt yourself'er. The parts are expensive, and the labour costs can vary. From the local dealers in the area, you can spend an average of $50 for an oil change, and more $$ when you want other things done. I wouldn't say the SC400 is a gas guzzler. If you drive a lot, it's a very efficient vehicle. I get an average of 23.8miles on my LS400 and 26miles on my Sc300. Don't let my thoughts discourage you from getting the car. It's still #1 in our book, and people still stare. I would say go for it.

No, Toyota never made a manual transmission for the Soarer 4.0. I asked a couple of my friends in Aus and Japan, whether a 5sp or 6sp is feasible or worth making. They said "hell no... The wires and design is very difficult to work with and convert..."

Yeah, SportCoupe300 is right. You just ordered the exhaust mufflers. otherwise the price would be close to a Grand. By the way, are you planning to install turbos any time in the future? Something I would consider before ordering pipes. If you're not, just get the muffler. The exhaust note is worth the money.

Looks nice, but why only 4discs? Why didn't you go with a full changer? :)

Thanks for the input 1ponkte. I'll pinn it to the forum for anyone who might be interest.

There is a company in San Fran that refurbishes them. Just take it out and send it to them. The address is pinned on the LS400/430 forum under Climate/Clock. They can save you about $100, providing their rates haven't gone up since I got mine done. If you're interested, I can get you a new one cheaper than what the dealer is asking.

nah, I'm afraid not. You'd have to change the entire setup, and the airbag plugs need to be modified. If you want to modify your current steering wheel with wood trim, there are some companies that can do that for you. The shifter won't work at all. The shifter-case and the transfer cases are completely different. Sorry

I know mine just past the 200k mark, and it's still running fine. I see more electronic issues than mechanical issues.

You won't feel the difference immediately, but one day, your engine will burn more efficiently, and you might pick-up some torque. While you're using the non-synthetic, I would suggest using a can of Restore. It will clean up the cylinders. Better efficiency. By the way, I was reading the other post about your heater issue. If you're going to take the car in for service, have them do a coolant flush. If it's not a bright green anymore, it may cause future problems. :)

That's bull. Synthetic is just a reformed oil. Yes the bottle says for newer cars, but you can use them. Both of my lexus cars have 5w and 10w, with no problems--and i have 183 and 201k cars. You can use 10w instead of the 5w; it's fine If you have 6 bottles, use the amount that your car needs. Keep checking the dipstick as you pour your final bottle. You don't want to overfill.

well, I wouldn't say it's as easy as replacing the shocks and Coilover on a Honda. You will need to spend some time, but you don't exactly have to spend money for a mechanic. I say, if you have the money, and don't care about the money, then spend it. Otherwise DIY is worth the experience. I don't see any scripts written about it. If you want to tackle it, AWJ, myself and many others on the SC forum will be able to guide you through the process: several of us have the repair manuals at home.

5 3/8quarts depending on how hot your engine and the old oil is. I believe Mobil 1 Synthetic is the best oil, but Quaker State high mileage will do the exact some job as Mobil 1. (Don't tell me Sponsors) My mechanic friends say, switching to 10W30 is prudent; I say you don't have to providing you have no leaks.

He's absolutely correct. Hence the reason why my race car has 180lbs feet of torque, and 120hps. I only need horsepwr on straight aways. I believe the reason why so many people use HP instead of Torque is because we in North America have more flat, straight roads instead of Twistees. :)

I don't think the ones being sold on Ebay are just owners manuals, not Repair manuals. The books are normally $150-250 for each volume, and there are two editions (Vol I and II). The 93 manual should be similar to the 92, since there wern't any major changes between the year. Besides, you're welcome to get some advice from us if you run into any problems, if it doesn't match up. You should be warned about something. Unlike GM and Ford repair manuals, part numbers are not included on the Toyota ones. It really does suck. If you're interested in getting the books, PM me.

Ken: As far as we're concerned, this car will last you forever. Some say Toyota's last 250-300k miles, but that's bull. my SC just crossed the 200k mile block, and is still purring. For the musty odor, the vent intake is just under your wiper blades(outside). Take some Lysol or mildew remover, spray it, and blast the AC for 10 minutes. Reapply as needed. Finally, getting to those burned out displays, you'll have to spend some time removing the following items: -brown side covers -unscrew the main units from the dash -disconnect the cables, -and start unscrewing the unit. Be careful when you remove the plastic coverings. They can be expensive. Good luck

I've been working on my business proposal for the past 6 months. Trying to get seed money for my aftermarket retail shop. I'm starting with a partner, and VCs. Helps distribute cost, accross the board. Computer service companies are the easiest and cheapest to start-up. Others require some major funding. If you're starting a medical equipment company, start the research and a proposal, for some VCs to look at.

you too, Andy.

I don't think so. But I might be wrong.