UCF3

Hey man, becarefull with this flu and mad cow epidemic going around. Maryland is 35% all around except for the front. Very small strip above. I personally have 20% and it looks great. If you get 20%, when the cops pull you over, roll down your windows-all the way.

Now that's what I'm talkin about. If someone starts this, I'll be there too.

That's funny. I've been looking into something similar on a Corolla, and can't seem to duplicate the sound in the garage. Do me a favour, first check for leaking parts, CV Boots, and other types of leaking parts underneath the front end. Then push your car down at each corner, and see if the car jumps back quickly or slowly. Some of friends and I believe it could be a bad strut(s).

:D LOL

No, I don't think so. You could cover it up with some clear tape or something similar.

LOL. :D Nothing's wrong with your exhaust. The popping noise is a late detonation. Think of it as a burp, and clearing of stomach gas.

No, don't use a butane torch. Use the impact wrench. 200-250lbs sounds right. If you can't get to it, WD40 it, and use the right tools.

oh, I forgot about the Torque Converter

We actually have a section pinned above called FAQ. AWJ started it, and we were hoping people would add to it. I'm Merging and Pinning your topic above I'll Add: SC300/400 Mesh Grill Inserts American Stitches--Leather/Carbon/Wood Steering Wheel Customized Although can't read Japanese, yet--Tom's has many performance parts for todays Lexus and Toyotas. http://www.tomsracing.co.jp/index2.html Gold Plating--Midas Touch Lexus Grills Import Toys--dealer Clear Corner--Head and Tail Light Customizers

beats me. Have you checked your oil pressure? When you were on the highway, were you pushing it? and were you reving it above 2k rpms while the oil was still cold?

What percentage are you getting?

That rear bumper cover should not collapes at all, providing it's an OEM. That is really strange. When you bought it (before painting) did you test it--tap/rub/push/pull the Urithane cover? I'm also surprised you had it waxed and polished? Bodyshops recommend that you don't wax it for a year, so that the paint has a chance to bake. Your trunk lid should not move. It sounds like they didn't tighten the shock or the hinge, and it should be perfectly aligned--evenly spaced on all sides. Do me a favour, put some pictures of the trunk lid and bumper cover on the SC picture gallery w/ link, or as an attachment. The rattling could be coming from your Exhaust. Check the hangers, by pulling and pushing them, unless it's an aftermarket. If it's rattling don't worry about it that much. The third brake light can be spliced from the actual one or the nearest brake light cable. You should be able to get a connector that fits, or check with an aftermarket installer. They may have a trick to do it. The Memory buttons probably needs to be programmed--position, set button, number button, beep. Your power mirrors probably needs a new motor or something. PM me if you need parts from the manufacturer. Your pass. seat, almost sounds like there are gremlins in it, if it really changes position when you're not controlling them. If I didn't get that, please explain it in details, one more time.

Since you're switching from Synthetic(0W40) to Synthetic(5W30) it shouldn't create any leaks, but it is bad if you continuously change the weight of the oil, it will create problems down the road. If I were you, I would use 0W40 for a couple of days, and then switch to 5 or 10 W 30. Switching from non-synthetic to synthetic is good for the block, but continuously switching, will reduce your engines performance significantly. Synthetic prevents buildup. Some of the "detergents" are chemicals that reduces/breaks down the size of metal fragments and carbons in your engine. MKt: What's "dino oil"?

yeah, replace the fuse first. There's nothing embarassing about a blown fuse or a penny falling into the cigarette lighter. It happens to the best of us.

Isn't your car shaking?

I'm sure you can. Maybe you could get the bulbs from LexTech, and take the climate control appart. By the way, thanks for the info about LexTech. I'm adding them to the FAQ section of our forum.

Is the rotor really 52 pounds each? Wow. I double checked on http://www.intellexual.net/faq.html#029 and 52 pounds is around the ballpark. What interesting is that the large supra tt brakes are lighter than the stock. I don't think the backseat weighs 180 pounds unless your talking about the frame part too. The backseat cushions weight around 20 pounds. So does the cd changer in the trunk. The spare tire (15 inch steel wheel on some v-rated tire) weighs a tad bit more than 50 pounds. The sc seats w/o heat weighs 71 (driver), and 59 (passenger). Supra TT leather seats are 20 (twenty) lbs less each. Quoted off of http://www.importfan.com/product.asp?0=0&1=0&3=3795 OEM Appoximate hood weight : 60.5 lbs = 27.44 kilograms OEM Hood C-WINGS Hood : 22 lbs = 9.97 kilograms You're right, about the seat and the rotors. The rotors are 22lbs each, and the back seat (both parts w/frames) weights 100lbs. I actually added the speaker deck and the speakers because he wouldn't have backrest to support it with. All combined will equal 184lbs. I would add, replacing the carpet and dash board will help reduce weight as well. Carpet, I would image is about another 60lbs and dash is another 50-70lbs. The Japanese SC in Super Street mag. used a carbonfiber dash. Front buckets-w/heat, moonroof, and headliner will save you 193lbs. Replacing all of the glass/windows with a plastic polymer should reduce another 300-500lbs. That's just the interior. Replacing the Hood, doors and trunk lid should reduce around 800lbs. If you want to make the car into a full-pledge race car--not street legal, let me know. Info. Courtesy of JD Forbes Race Team.

Doesn't it go away after a while? I know the ones on my cars have. The the Sub, have you tried looking for it on our Buy and Sell Forum? Ebay is a very good source for cheap parts. I can help you get a new one.

I'm not sure if there's a electronic overdrive. Overdrive is like the fifth gear on an automatic tranmission. The manufacturers say four speed automatic with overdrive. A friend of mine was rebuilding his T5 Transmission, and show'd me how the gears were setup. The overdrive gear on the Stang 5.0s-5speed, is relatively smaller compared to the other ones. I'm guessing, the ones on an automatic is bigger than the ones on manual shift. It is very important feature because it prevents your car from running at high RPMs for a long time. when you deactivate the O/D button (light on Dash), then the gear isn't active, and yes, you're wasting fuel. I've used touch-up paint on my G20 before. It wasn't the best solution for me. Aren't there instructions on the bottle? I would consult a body shop, or someone else on the forum.

I have 205,012 miles on mine. Although I'm not the original owner, but I know all of the belts, hoses, and fluids were replaced. I believe the previous owner gave up the car, after he heard the Oil Pan Gasket needed to be replaced. I had to replace the all of the filters, and the TP Sensor. Need to fix the oil pan gasket, clutch belt with a new shifter, and tires. Surprisingly the car is still running pretty well.

The rapid clicking one is your CatBack. You can change it.

I know the backseat weighs around 180lbs. and the stock rotors weigh 52lbs each.

Don't bother. The Lexus SC300/400 ECU will not work with the SOarer 2.5s'. You might have a better shot getting AutoMeter to customize a gauge cluster for you, but $$$.

Welcome. Have you had a chance to test the cables connected to your climate control system? This might be a good time to buy or get a good circuit tester. Test each wire to see which one isn't getting any juice. Many of us have wiring diagrams, and should be able to figure out what's wrong with it. If you don't want to pay the dealer prices for the stereo and instrument panel, check our FAQ section Pinned. Someone had posted another place where you can get the individual bulbs from, but I don't remember where I saw them. It could be in our Forum or the LS Forum. You should try Radio Shack

I'm going to add. Mikado Technologies Company 1435 Huntington Avenue South San Francisco, CA 94080 Phone: 650-615-9966 Mikado Technologies This company can rebuild you climate control Instrument Panel. Last time I used their service they charged me $299 for the Clock/Climate Control on my LS. Their prices may have changed, so if you call them, and you hear something different, please let us know. It is possible that they can fix the guage clusters as well. Another company/individual who can change the bulbs and cold cathoids, for less than above is: bcrowder19@comcast.net LexTech Removing the Guage Clusters: Instrument Panel Removal Also, some instructions on how to change the bulbs in your radio or climate control. ADDED 3/8/04: Jim Walker Jim Walker (LOC PM) jimlwalker@sbcglobal.net 559-457-3092