UCF3

So I take it you've had some work done by them, before. Private Message me if you're interested in Dealer parts.

there is a company in S. San Francisco who also rebuilds the Clock/Climate Control Module. It should cost you around $299 and is really easy to remove and replace. The steps were mentioned by redhawk2, and is alright. I have the name of the company on Page 2 of this forum(LS400-430). I'll ask Sw03es to pin it on the front. I can also help you with the price of the clutch if it's available.

I would sell mine also, but the miles are quite high. http://us.lexusownersclub.com/gallery/SC?&page=2 THE Two on the bottom with my username on them.

why would texas sell alchol fuel, especially with all those oil refineries? :whistles:

welcome to the forum Thai. Kind of curious but isn't there a shock instead of a strut in the front of the AIR SUSPENSION LS's? If you need a stock one, I can get one cheaper than what you'd buy from the dealer. If not, try the junk yard for wrecked LS's and you'll find one.

Taking a shot in the dark, but isn't bleed the steering wheel part of the process, just like bleeding the brakes?

Private message me.

hasn't anyone made a functional short through for the NASupra or the SC?

I have a 95 SC300 with 175k miles on it, and it's still purring like a cat. I had to replace my throttle positioning sensor, and thought it was leaking oil when I bought it. I used those defects and bought it for $6200. I know you did the carfax, but I would really recommend you checking the car out throughly by both the Lexus dealer and the body. Apparently the previous owner had some front end damage and it wasn't reported. Look for the stickers and discolouration around the body and engine bay frame. As for winter, if you're getting the Auto with Trac, you can get away with driving on snow. Also, invest the $200 on two snow tires and you can definitely get away with it. The 5speed tends to push the back end out. That's why I drive my LS during winter. ;)

yeah, it sounds like the window regular. The part is $270 from Lexus, but I can get it for $75. Installing it is a real pain in the A$$. Have the dealer do it all. I can get you the part for the same price I paid. it takes about 1.5hrs to install, and should cost you around $150. If your dealer isn't willing to do it for that price, tell them that another dealer stated it takes an hour and half, and to prorate it. I tried installing it myself, but it was such a pain in the A$$, i took it to the dealer.

I don't see if he's offering the ECU with the block and Tranny. I don't see anyone offering the JDM 1jz ECU. By the way, are any of your states heavy emissions testers?

Hey that's not bad. I was expecting the price to be a little bit higher. Although I'd get a Baer, Brembo, or Wilwood brake upgrade kit, and new wheels to go with the car to finish the suspension upgrade. Meddle, let me know how those upgrades work out, and how they feel on high speed turns.

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It should. You could get it from Bomex USA. The link is below. http://www.bomexaero.com/bomexusa.html

No six speed, run-flats and the lack of rollover protection humps on the back are the only real complaints about the SC430. But if you're not an insane driver like some of us, then don't worry about them. Also, I'm not much of a convertable person.

I think it's on the front. I remember spinning on snow and the speedo didn't move.

The OD governs the overdrive gear to engage. the RPMs should be going up most of the time. Not quite sure why the Tranny is the issue! Someone else will come along and might be able to answer that question. Sorry.

It's not a stock feature. Someone might have done that to your car. I believe the only feature that is optional is the windows being able to roll themselves up, but you have to do something with the coding. Keep it around, it sounds nice, but don't be surprised if something happens to them.

It sounds like one of the wires might be loose or died.

Could be! ;)

So, what are those plants growing way north of LA County? I remember seeing some growing when I was on the 5, heading towards San Francisco. Ethanol is extracted from Corns. That fuel was not designed for the UCF1 or any Japanese engine of fuel system. It should clog up your fuel injectors and will definitely mess-up your ECU. The fuel is efficient on EVL cars, reported 35-70mpg on GSA Fleet cars.

I don't know. It seems to be a similar product like Zmax or dynomax or something. I added the octane booster to my G20 a few years ago, on Citgo 87, and Dyno'd it. It improved horsepower by 5bhp and a two mile improvement with gas mileage. Then i used premium Hess and Shell fuel, and wow, higher numbers that that. I believe it makes a difference too. Actually, the Feds do watch these additive companies. One of the agencies i work with has a lab in College Park, MD, and they were testing STP Super Octane boost.

I stand corrected. Rubbing Compound will damage the clear coat. My friends mentioned using an adhesive wax remover, providing you've waxed your car in the past 6 month. 3M has a good one; just check with a Pep Boys and they'll be able to set you up. They also mentioned contacting County about the lack of posting, and get them to pay for the detail from a professional bodyshop. They did agree with me about the Pwer Washing, not using it.

He mentioned that his steering wheel was shaking--not his brake padel. Wheel balance may very well be the problem.

I really wouldn't put 20w-50 since that's really thick. I'm not sure, but I'm pretty sure it's doing something bad. I'll find out some more info, once I talk to my tech.