UCF3

I really don't think the IS could beat the SC. I Illeg'd an IS the other day, and man I feel good. Of course he wasn't reving it to 6k like I was, but I honestly don't believe the IS could. PS: I really don't like to compare the IS vs the SC400. There are some really big differences between the two.

I don't know how much it will cost you to fix it, but I can get you OEM parts, once you've figured out what's leaking. What you could do, is look underneath the car or the location you think the leak is, and post some pics for us. It won't be definite, but some of us might be able to narrow your search down.

Actually, there is a V8 out there. I was reading Sports Compact Mag. a couple of years ago and Europes' TRD tuner dropped the 4.3 into an IS. Man that thing is fast. I would say, both the SC and the IS are great cars. I took the IS to Summit a month ago. It drove pretty well for an under HP&Torque'd Toyota. Personally, I think the G35 is better in the HP and Torque department, but the handling capability of IS is supurb. I did get better lap times in my SC than with the IS, but Tech-wise, the IS is pretty well designed.

Actually, if you drop the weight and add nitrious, you'd move down the line a lot quicker ;)

I would say the 2JZ is also a High Compression Ratio Engine, don't you think? Lovlex: You have another option if you're interested in getting 87. Add a bottle Octane Boost--6 or 7 will work--to get the 93 level you need. Here's the catch, you'd have to add a bottle of Octane Boost every time you empty your tank. Since the cost of Octane Boost around $4-10 and the price of 87 grade fuel, you might end up paying the same amount as 93 grade fuel.

S2000? You realize the SC330 and the Toyota Supra is coming out soon. Why leave the family?

Yeah, I've seen some shops using an open-head wrench and a thick metal sleeve, and pull. BlackSC4: Why are you torqueing it to 239lbs'? you should just tighten it so that it stops any leaks, or else change the bolt.

98-99 LS doesn't have a ton of Aftermarket parts. The car is built correctly with slightly stiffer shocks and coilovers--to feel like the newer Beamers and Benz's. I suggest you test drive one, and put it through the cornering test. Since you live in a Snow Zone, be prepared to buy snow tires, if you're planning to drive it during. Since the car is for your wife, I would also suggest the ES, RX, and GS Series. They are all well designed cars.

You could say that, but like many experts will tell you, better safe than sorry.

Won't be able to spell it out for you, but it sounds like a 'shsh...shsh...shsh' The white smoke is after it breaks, and the engine won't crank anymore.

4 is recommended, but if the tread height is around 8-10", you can get away by two. I would recommend a good channeling tread pattern for the fronts.

No. Water Pump was replaced at 150k, and the timing belt was replaced once at 60k. I haven't changed it since 60k.

First Check all of your filters, Air, Fuel, and the fluid levels. Make sure they're topp'd off and clean. After warming up the oil (15min driving or idle), turn off the O/D button and Trac Button, and count the jumps. Do it slowly. If you count all four gears, there's nothing wrong with your transmission. It might be a little sluggest because of the age, but I can't see anything wrong with it. You could try changing the transmission oil for better/cleaner lub. "It takes more RPM to get the thing moving to normal street speed and is drinking gas like mad. Problem is getting worse. " --There's a good chance one of your filters needs to be changed. Turn on the ECT button (leave the O/D, and Trac off). Floor it. If your RPM level is around 3500-4200, it's likely the ECU controller needs to be adjusted, or your fuel filter needs to be changed. Try these out. PM me if you want some more tests.

jbsmithsa: If it breaks, it's likely to wheeze a lot before, then snap. If you're driving or reving the engine, it will smell and white smoke will come out. A Toyota dealer around here quoted me around $700. If you're bold, you could always change it yourself, but change if you hear it when the outside condition is damp. I'm very close to 200k, and so far don't have to replace it. I don't drive the car like I stole it, just to show my driving habit

SW03ES: Don't you apply the glazing during the second stage? :)

I used to live in Syracuse, NY for 10years. FWD and 4WD are the best, but since I moved to Maryland, the snow didn't leave me. I swaped my all seasons with two cheap Snow tires. They're doing the job it's supposed to, but definitely measure the snow height before driving over it. For you I'd recommend four cheap Snow tires, for Ohio winters The best are: Blizzak WS but you'd have to replace them in Spring. Tirerack has also listed Perrelli, but goto Sears or Walmart, and get the cheapest Snow tires. If you switch over, drive slowly over water. The snow tires hydroplanes a lot.

got any pics of what they look like? I also recommend using Lexol, and SoftScrub to remove the brown. If your seats are damaged, you could replace them with Katzkin leatherite. They look good, and not very expensive.

I would recommend that also. I replaced my waterpump and serpentine belt at 160k and the car's running well. I was forced to replace the fan bracket and the power steering pump recently and everything is fine now. PS: Some countries in the Middle East has SC400 and Soarer 2.5's as Police Cars. U.A.E is using the new LS430T as a Police Car.

Interesting. I wouldn't have cranked the starter, just use a lot of elbow grease, but you did it. Congrats. :)

You mean Traffic! ;)

ouch. Question. Have the cops ticket'd you if your windows are rolled down?

I haven't seen any in Japan or the US. There are some options you could try out to prevent tar buildup. 1) Try to avoid them. 2) Wax the painted parts of your SC. Use Meguire or Mothers Carnuba Wax. It will make the tar come off easier. Apply it every 8 months. For the Plastic parts, use Armor All. Apply it inside your wheel-well/mudguard area. Appearance-wise, it makes the car look like new, and well maintained. 3) To clean it, use a high pressure hose 12psi if you don't apply, or general faucet pressure(home pressure) if you do apply. 4) I have also seen Tar/bug lotion at Walmart and PepBoys. You could try that as well. The first two are the best options I would choose.

Doesn't your RX come with a wooden Steering wheel? If not, you could try to have it customized They can do it: American Stitches

say, have you guys checked out Lextreme's modifications LexTreme This is done to a 98-99 LS, but they might be able to modify something for you. It doesn't look like much, but it might be worth looking into. You probably can do this yourself.

I have SPW's HID Kit on my SC and LS. They looks great. SPWusa.com--There Website isn't up, but my HIDs look like this. The High beam section has a LED Ring-that's why it's glowing. Raybaka: If you live in SoCal, there is a company that can actually convert your Rx's Halogens to Street Legal HIDs. Their Link is ClearCorners They can also add LEDs to your tail lights, sidemarkers and blah, blah. WARNING: They are expensive, but can be worth it if you want Street Legal.