Leaderboard


Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation since 08/21/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    It could be a good opportunity if you really want an LS 500 and especially if you plan to keep it a long time. You might be able to negotiate a even lower price based on the vehicle's history. I read recently that there are still a lot of unsold new 2018 LS 500's so the market for them is apparently very soft. Other than its run-flat tires and no spare tire, my main problem with the LS 500 is the shrinking interior which now has a volume within a tenth of a cubic foot of the space of a 2019 Toyota Camry with its optional moonroof. The Camry we rented 6 weeks ago was actually roomier than an LS 500 since the rental Camry didn't have a moonroof. Of course, Toyota/Lexus is too ashamed of it to publish interior volume dimensions for the LS 500 so it's necessary to go elsewhere to find them: https://cars.usnews.com/cars-trucks/lexus/ls/2018/specs/ls-awd-398085 Lexus LS 500 - Passenger Volume (cu. ft.): 99.4 Toyota Camry (with moonroof) - 99.3 cu. ft. per https://www.toyota.com/content/ebrochure/2019/camry_ebrochure.pdf I know the luxury sedan market has shrunk due to the flight to SUV's but I never expected the Lexus LS interior to shrink.
  2. 2 points
    Trevor, Thanks for the info. You were correct, I had not connected the temp sender wire. It is a bugger of a thing to locate and even more difficult to fit the connector when the entire loom is in situ. The sender unit is tucked in behind the plastic spark plug channel. Done now, so everything is fine. Thanks again, Alan.
  3. 1 point
    I believe if it has the air ride suspension and Nav System it is worth 15,000. Try to find a UL in good condition with the air ride. There are almost none available.
  4. 1 point
    There are too many possibilities to speculate which is why you need a trained tech with appropriate equipment to diagnose. If I had to guess, the problem might be a defective spark plug coil. But a defective engine or transmission mount could cause a similar vibration.
  5. 1 point
    IiAccessing Antenna Motor for 2000 LX470 in Ten Steps. The notched plastic cable came lose from my antenna and reeled-in completely into the motor; I could not replace the antenna without first removing that cable from the motor. 1. Remove the mast from the motor, by loosening and removing the bolt that secures it to the car fender. Put this bolt somewhere safe. 2. There is plastic cowling under the passenger-side wheel well. (It’s probably helpful to remove the front right tire/wheel, but not required; I just turned the wheel as far to left as possible and that provided good access.) 3. There are about 8 plastic rivets to pop-out, and two screws; you don’t need to take the piece completely out; just remove enough to gain access to the antenna motor. You’ll probably break the rivets when removing them and you’ll need replacements. You can get these from your dealer, however I found some generic plastic auto-body rivets at Ace Hardware that worked fine. 4. Once you can bend-back the cowling and access the motor, you’ll see the motor is fastened to one bracket with one bolt. Remove this bolt and the motor comes free. 4. It may require a little wiggling, but the motor should drop out. Carefully move the plastic protective cover. And then carefully unsnap the power cable connection. Note: I left the radio antenna wire connected. 5. To open the motor, there are about 5 or 6 screws to remove. It’s very greasy, so surgical gloves were helpful to wear. It’s sealed very tightly with grease, so you have to pry it open. 6. Once open, remove the broken plastic cable and then tightly reassemble the motor. 7. Reconnect the power cable and repackage the motor in the plastic protective wrap. 8. Slide the motor back in place loosely. Before tightening it in place to the bracket, push the mount through the fender mast hole and reattach the nut; this assures it’s at the proper height to be tightly secured. Once this is done, securely tighten the bracket bolt. 9. Now you can remove the exterior fender nut and install a new antenna mast. (Lesson learned: buy an OEM Toyota/Lexus mast. It’s are expensive, but worth it. I found myself in this predicament because I bought a cheap replacement on Amazon.com.) There are a number of posts and “how to’s” for reinstalling a new electric antenna mast ... so I won’t go into those details here. 10. Once you’ve reinstalled the antenna and are confident it’s working correctly, replace and remount the plastic wheel cowling. You should be good to go!
  6. 1 point
    Drove some muddy trails last night. The car did way better than i expected.
  7. 1 point
    Concerning something (like a pen) falling into the well for the console drink holder door of a Lexus RX 350 which prevents it from opening all the way. First take out the removable cup divider. Then take about a 8” length of some very sticky tape, and cut it so only the very end about 1/4 “ is revealed. Then slide the sticky end down the inside of the door (holding it close to the door in a half-way open position) till it was hitting the bottom of the door well. Then open the door all way until it touches the pen, or ? and the pressure of the door against the tape will cause the pen to stick to the tape. Slowly close the door as you pull up the tape and slowly pull it to the drink holder area. You can also assist the process by putting some very sticky tape on the end of a chopstick (or pencil), and when you see the object, try to make it stick to the tape on the chopstick and begin pulling it into the drink well. It took a bit of patience, but I saved myself a trip to the dealer for an expensive console removal doing this. Good Luck!
  8. 1 point
    The general rule is that if a repair or repairs within a short period of time are equal to or greater than 50% of the value of the car, then it may be time to buy a replacement vehicle.
  9. 1 point
    Thanks, i should be able to replace it myself. I just need to make sure i buy/order the right one.
  10. 1 point
    A Lexus Field Tech Specialist made me aware of an aftermarket harness for LC500. Car Tunes in Largo, FL located the harness via a simple internet search and attached a standard front or rear camera. They did the installation for $600 total. The harness allows the camera to integrate with the stock display. When parking just push button on dash and front camera is on for 20 seconds. If you need more time, just push button again. Attached are pictures of camera in grill-(no cutting needed), picture of button and front camera view. Works like a charm-no longer stress parking. Also note carbon fiber wrap to door sills-looks great.
  11. 1 point
    dont you guys have ebay up there?? Front Lower Control Arm RH RF Passenger Side for 95-00 Lexus LS400 Brand New 39.95 free shipping ? UK? 95-2000 ALL THE SAME
  12. 1 point
    The LX470 suspension is rough but nothing like "beating to death". This is having 3 different brands of tires what is most likely causing a bumpy ride. This is also a huge safety issue. In my region, we've recently had a driver who died as he was driving at circa 60mph, had to make a sudden maneuver but was unable to retain control of a car due to different tire threads and their different level of wear and tear. He smashed into a truck and died. Not ideally, but you can still have front/rear tires of a different thread pattern/wear and tear, however, both of the front tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear and both of the rear tires should have the same pattern/wear and tear (and you'd put the most worn tires on the rear axle). Ideally, all four tires should be the same. Other things which may cause a bumpy ride are: - dirt on the wheel disks. Not your case (having driven 300 miles, the dirt must have gone away); - a wrong wheel alignment. Best to perform a wheel alignment once a year.
  13. 1 point
    Thank you. I managed to get it to start, and it was the starter relay! I popped it out and put it back in, and it worked just fine. Thanks for the diagnosis help though
  14. 1 point
    Was the valet key stolen when the car was parked where you frequently park it? If not, the thief might not find your car again. You might be able to have the all the keys "deleted" from the vehicle ECU memory and then have the keys you still have programmed back in. The thief would still be able to unlock and gain access to your car but the stolen valet key could not be used to start the engine. If that is not good enough, yes, you can have the service center replace and program new keys but there will be significant expense to change the door and trunk locks and the ignition switch. Insurance may cover much or all of the cost if you have it.
  15. 1 point
    See if this one works Swigzy Car Cup Holder Expander Adapter with Adjustable Base - Rubber Tabs Securely Hold Large Water Bottles
  16. 1 point
    as a NEW member, the FIRST thing you need to do is SEARCH other people's steering problems, this has been covered for years. there are even videos showing you how to fix it.. THEN if you dont understand, ask for help. a 5 cent garden hose washer will fix it (usually). see videos.. 2 screws to remove the covers, then 3 screws to remove the plate and you are looking at it.
  17. 1 point
    I bought the Polk Audio DB840 8" replacement speaker that is named in youtube videos about replacing the Mark Levinson subwoofer. There is some discussion about replacing a Mark Levinson speaker with an aftermarket speaker. I went with the Polk($54.00) and it sounds fine. Does is sound as good? I couldn't say because before I replaced the ML blown subwoofer I didn't think to study up on the quality of the sound. I installed the Polk and it sounds fine, maybe great. That's very subjective. But it does sound like a high quality and working speaker system. Interesting comment is that the price of the Mark Levinson is in the design and not the hardware. Old ML speaker weighs much less than the Polk but does not seem to have any distinguishing or different features. Thus end that debate for me. Polk ($54.00 ) vs. ML(used -$300.00 - minimum) R&R pretty simple. if by the time you read this , youtube videos still around, they can walk you thru it. One video has you removing rubber ring around new Polk speaker, one has you keeping it. I kept it and modified plastic bracket that goes BELOW speaker and allows speaker to seat properly on car deck.. This is the bracket that screws onto your rear deck . I secured this bracket with 3 little screws drilled into the plastic. Don't let these screws be too long as they will hit metal rear decking of car. Otherwise any little screw will suffice. The other bracket that is attached to ML assembly is no longer needed. to restate: you throw away one of 2 ML brackets and use only the bracket which screws into car rear deck. drill new holes thur existing holes in Polk speaker and into plastic bracket to secure speaker to this bracket. I only used 3 screws. Like someone said this will only be critical if you roll the car. I don't know the electronics theory but I followed instructions for 'shorting' voice mail coil. Why do that , I don't know? Does it have to be done, I don't know either? Its simple though. Get some wire crimpers and connectors and some short speaker wire and get after it. It took me around 3 hours. if I knew what I was doing , under 2 easy . Seat removal is simple. However when you start removing and reinstalling trim which is seated with those plastic punch pins, It gets a little frustrating. It is of course not automatic that you can line up pins with holes in car's sheet metal.
  18. 1 point
    I don't think the oil change or the sludge would be responsible for the engine cutting out. However, I would look for fault codes and also carry out grass roots diagnostics (checking battery terminals and battery condition and then carrying on through the car one step at a time). It's laborious but does throw up interesting faults that would otherwise go undetected. Check also the fuel quality and drain/refill if suspect
  19. 1 point
    Good to know about the key hole. I'll tap on it harder to try to secure it better too.
  20. 1 point
    If you want to save $350 or more, you can also carefully remove the sensor, drill out a 1/16 through hole at the center of the rotary arm & stationary portion...then screw the rotary arm back in place with a tiny screw. I just finished this on mine & it works great. **Just make sure you have a low profile screw head so it doesn't bind into the silver sway arm. Also, you want to wallow out the rotary arm hole a little bigger than the screw - that way the screw only holds into the stationary sensor portion. You don't want the rotary arm engaged w/ the screw trying to turn it. I kept bumping the "trunk close" button when trying to pull away the trunk lid trim. If you remove the 2 top right fuses 10A & 5A in the left trunk fuse block, the trunk lights & trunk operation will stop while you work on the sensor.
  21. 1 point
    Have you checked that the plastic casing/cap on the filter housing aren't cracked?
  22. 1 point
    Adding a backup camera to a 2001-2003 LS430 is rather involved. There is a post on ClubLexus on how to do it on an LS430 with the Mark Lev system but I don't know if would work for the standard nav system: https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-3rd-gen-2001-2006/511807-how-to-ls430-mark-levinson-everything-w-pics-and-part-s.html#post5620270 If you can't see the attachments in that post, here is a direct link to the YouTube video about it:
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    I guess my issue is nothing with the brakes. Its a communication issue with the instrument cluster. Anyone know if I can get a junked cluster or need to deal with a dealership? either way everything is working fine which is good. so it is just a visible check engine light that bothers me.
  25. 1 point
    Still a few of us around though I upgraded to a 430 then 460L I still have the 98 that stays parked most of the time.
  26. 1 point
    dcfish? Whoa! That's a blast from the past. There have been people looking for you asking about navigation and audio systems. I still drop by this forum once a month or so and sometimes try to help. There's not much in the current Lexus lineup of interest to us. Somebody in Nebraska is driving the 2000 LS400 I sold in 2014 ... wish he would change the name/address associated with the car so Lexus wouldn't contact me about it. My daily driver is still the "Lexus of Minivans" - suits us perfectly for our lifestyle these days. Nice to hear from you!
  27. 1 point
    Yup, just give them time. They'll break through the main market scene soon enough.
  28. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply. I am having all looked at on Wednesday. I shared your thought on the issues. I appreciate it! Thanks again.
  29. 1 point
    Thanks Trevor for your answer! I have visited Lexus dealer today to they check vibration. Luckily they had a time to check that out. They check balance (did not find anything). Also they make a wheel rotation. Thats all they did. The vibration is now much much lower. Now it feels more like light tingle what could be felt only on good new freeway asphalt. So I probably will wait little while if this gets worse or may be better. This sounds strange that vinbration was almost fixed by the wheel rotation...
  30. 1 point
    Struts are discussed all the time, but my choice is KYB struts and OE mounts....Have put them on RX300 and RX400h and a GMC Yukon....Love these struts. the knock noise is probably broken mount, but could also be a damaged stabilizer bar mount....
  31. 1 point
    Oh wow! a fascinating country to visit....make sure you post up some photos, especially if you visit the Lexus factory
  32. 1 point
    Nice! Thought maybe I should share some more recent pics of my RX, the bumper and skid plates are still a work in progress.
  33. 1 point
    Now you can see how the wheel spacers will give you the extra tire clearance at the perch. I want to say with the 2" spacers on mine it puts the edge of the tire somewhere right at the outside edge of the perch. I could have fit larger tires but went smaller and should probably go to smaller spacers like 1" to 1.5" to fix the edge of my tire hitting the top of the fender when bottoming out.
  34. 1 point
    I think you're stuck with 235/65r17's as your biggest, I had the next gen 235/55r19's and they would sometimes rub going around corners. I can only fit 265/70r17 cause I put 2012 highlander rear struts in it. That leaves you just over 29".
  35. 1 point
    The world of lifting RX vehicles is still pretty small so there aren't exactly any definitive guides but like any other strutted vehicle the same limitations in tire/wheel fitment would apply. The first limitation on my 300 was the rear spring perches because they are squattier than the fronts. Side clearance of the spring perch will limit how tall and wide of a tire you can fit without modification or for a certain offset/spacer. The next limitation for me was rubbing when turned full clock, not acceptable to me and I was able to fit mine with no rubbing. The taller and wider the tire the turning clearance is greatly reduced, its geometry but you can figure it out with a straight edge. Clock the wheels and take a straight edge across the inside sidewalls to the nearest obstruction and you can measure how much taller of a tire will fit without rubbing but leave some cushion. The closest point of the tire should be at the horizontal axis of the tire but make sure you look at fender clearances as well. Just take your time and measure everything until you are absolutely sure your fitment is what you want. You could also likely take it to a custom shop and they should be able to measure or use a jig to tell you what you can and can't fit. I would not recommend bringing the tire tread up past the bottom of the spring perch. If you do and you do not have ample clearances you can easily slash your sidewalls. If you are sticking with stock suspension the steering changes shouldn't be as drastic but just be ready for it to handle differently. I have not had to trim anything for mine and do not have anything rub except when I have 300-400 extra pounds in it and the suspension takes a really hard hit, mostly the rear where the outside tread just catches the lip of the fender. I need a little more travel or slightly stiffer springs in the rear. I think I am also running a larger wheel spacer than necessary (2"). Same thing for the front but don't hit the fender lip unless it is a really really hard suspension hit and I am turning. There is enough travel and clearance in the front if I am going straight over that really hard hit. I do not rub on the inside of the tire when turning but it is the outside front of the tire that hits the fender liner. That is only because it was a cheap aftermarket liner I was in a hurry to get in there to get some protection for my trans cooler before a trip. I had to cut the vents into the plastic and they puckered out into the wheel well so the tire catches them. I need to reinstall it so it fits correctly and likely make a little aluminum plate/grill for the vent slots so that doesn't happen. ***Edit- Brickwall says you have springs and shocks on the rear of yours and not a strut so that makes it a lot easier. You are then pretty much limited by the strut and turning clearance of the front then,
  36. 1 point
  37. 1 point
    Hey all! First post here, so I accidentally purchased this incredible 1998 LS 400 with 54K original miles. This isn't exactly a for sale ad, as I'm sure you'd all be happy to take a look at my new car - HOWEVER, the purchase was technically a mistake... Seeing as this was purchased sight unseen - I'm pretty happy with it's incredible condition! It is a California car, now in North Jersey and the timing belt was done at 48K miles.
  38. 1 point
    Sweet ride. I bought mine earlier this year with 234,000 miles and it was still a steal. I love my car. My GF named her "Lady Pearl." Changed the Timing Belt, had paint correction done, repaired an outer tie rod and not much more. If you decide to keep it, it should serve you well. Paul
  39. 1 point
    bacosta007, Two possible problems come to mind. The head unit amplifier for those speaker channels has quit working, or ... the connector on the back of the head unit has come loose and is not making contact. If you are a DIYer with car tear down and audio experience, pull the head unit and disconnect the wiring harnesses to it (disconnect the battery first, after copying down the frequencies of all your radio presets). It might be just that simple to correct. If that doesn't correct the issue, check with a Lexus dealership to see if they have an exchange program for the head unit. Years ago (1986 I believe) I had a radio issue with my wife's Toyota Cressida. Toyota had and exchange program where you gave them the old radio to refurbish and they gave you a refurbished unit to replace it with for like $350 or so (long time ago and the details are fuzzy). Maybe Lexus has something similar? Worth checking. Good Luck!
  40. 1 point
    I just purchased a white and beige interior 1996 Lexus LS 400 that belonged to an old lady that never drove it practically. The car was purchased with 9,547 original miles. It is still under 10,000 miles The car looks like it just came out from dealership and still smells new
  41. 1 point
    http://www.lexomans.com/manguide-559.html
  42. 1 point
    armcomdes, I haven't had to do this fix on any of our Lexus models , but had two Subaru's that did. The subies was a simple fix because of the shape of the shields, fitting close to the front resonator and covering part of the exhaust pipe as well. I simply put a larger exhaust clamp right around the heat shield at the pipe entering the resonator, and clamped the heat shield right to the resonator. Problem solved for the next 3 years until trade time. The ES muffler shields are different, much wider area coverage, and not as close to the muffler. A down and dirty fix would be to use plumber's strapping (comes in a roll with lots of holes in it. Cut off a section long enough to go between the trunk floor and the heat shield, and then down around the muffler and back up to the strap again. Pull it tight to force the heat shield to collapse onto the muffler, and tighten the ends together with a long bolt and nut. To keep it looking less obvious, position the strapping as far forward on the muffler as possible to do the job, but still not be seen from the rear of the car, if possible. The only other sure way to silence the rattle is a new heat shield and mounting bolts, because yours have rusted off. Good Luck!
  43. 1 point
    Move to the northeast. Your problem is that you are in California where it is always sunny. In the northeast it is about always cloudy so you won't have the problem. ;)
  44. 1 point
    This is an excellent technical review of the new GS350-F. Lots of features explanation and the same with brake rotors, aluminum frame benefits, and use of "Sport" settings and reduction of steering effort. Check it out and give everyone you opinion on the GS350 F sport. Beyond performance, I like the adjustable side bolsters in the front seats. Paul
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    I own a 1995 Lexus ES 300 with 110,000 miles and am located in Northern New Jersey. Recently I replaced all six spark plugs and all six plastic coil connector clips, which is the first time that these items have been replaced on my car. I used NGK OEM Iridium spark plugs from Autozone and OEM connector clips. After finishing the job, the car started OK the first few times but ran extremely rough and would not rev beyond about 3,000 RPM. After successfully starting it 3-4 times, it now will not start up at all. I have rechecked all of my electrical connectors and air hose connections, reset the on-board computer by unpligging the battery, and found no error codes on my OBD II reader. Wouild one bad plug/coil/connecotor set prevent the car from starting up? If so, is there any easy way to diagnose which plug/coil pair is causing my issue? If dirt or grease had accidentally gotten into my air intake manfold or throttle housing, could that be causing my start-up and rough engine issue? Any suggestions on how to further troublseshoot and isolate my exact problem would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance for your guidance!
  47. 1 point
    I think it is pretty cheap when a corporation such as Toyota stops furnishing repair manuals. Once again big corporations don't care about us little people
  48. 1 point
    ...and for posterity sake, exactly which fuse did you replace? Thanks.
  49. 1 point
    guy4rmsky, There are 4 sunroof drain tubes, two up front that exit down the A pillars, and two that run from the rear side channels of the sunroof, and exit down through the C pillar and out between the rear bumper cover and the sheet metal, just back of the rear wheel. If those rear drains are plugged, or the drain hose has come off the tube at the sunroof channel, you'll get water into the back seat area. If the tube has come off, its usually because the plastic tubing has aged and split. Sometimes you can put a long copper tube on the end of a compressor hose, and with the sunroof partially opened, get it back to the rear of the sunroof side channel and blow out the drain tube. The only other way is to pull the weatherstrip from around the rear door, remove the rear seat bottom and back, pop the C pillar moulding off, remove the overhead assist strap, and gently pull down the headliner to get at the end of the drain tube and reattach it or replace it. The only other way for water to get into the back seat area, is through the trunk seal, the tail lights or the rear windshield. Sometimes the shape of the trunk floor will allow water from these areas to flow forward and into the back seat area. You have some detective work on your hands. Good Luck!
  50. 1 point
    her are some helpful wire colors for head unit (thanks DEI) 02 lexus es300 12+ constant blue/yellow 12+ acc gray ground brown illumination + green factory amp on pink/blue all wires above found at factory head unit plug left front spkr +pink -purple right front spkr +light green -blue left rear spkr +black -yellow right rear spkr +red -white all wires above found at factory amp (behind glovebox next to ECM) VSS (speed sense) purple/white found at ECM (behind glovebox next to factory amp)



  • Newsletter

    Want to keep up to date with all our latest news and information?
    Sign Up