Mobil One 0-40w

[brucelee]

Anyone use this oil. Seems like a winner!

[AWJ]

30 weight is what is recommended for your car. 5 or 10. I don't know what will happen running 40 - but I wouldn't. It might be just fine. I run mobile 1 5 or 10-30. Although I've been checking out some other options after some input on this site.

[SKperformance]

I have used 0-40 and it works great for winter.

40 weight would be good in any older car.

[Sadistic]

I've used 0-30, that stuff is like water when hot. If you have an oil leak, just put some zero weight in there man, you'll find it in about 10 minutes. 15-50 isn't a bad oil weight, 5-30 is good, 0-30 is good. As long as you're not chucking in straight 50 weight, I think you'll be fine.

[rich21]

can you change to mobil 1 at anytime of the cars life even though it says for newer vehicles on the bottle?

[UCF3]

can you change to mobil 1 at anytime of the cars life even though it says for newer vehicles on the bottle?

Absolutely. Just not 0w40

0W40 Mobil 1. Definitely not recommended for older cars. It is a very good oil to put in your car, but only in Brand New Motors. It's designed for modern cars, in Arctic climates. I haven't seen anybody selling it over here. I know it's big in the UK and Germany

[southernsc300]

so what is the best oil to put in your car? name brand and weight? ive got 65k miles on it and i need to change it here within 100 miles.

[99lsguy]

I use AMSOIL 5-30W (Im a dealer). It is 100% synthetic!

Plus Amsoil oil filter.

Started it at 55K on my 99LS; now almost 59K and not a drop leaked/or burned yet.

[johnny3]

I'd go to Mobil 1--5/30 with a Toyota or Wix filter, 8-10k between changes.

[Wick]

It all depends on how hot or cold your climate is. Down in Houston I have no problems running

10W40 in my car. If I lived in a colder climate I would most likely use 5W30. But remember that an oil that is too thick will cost you HP. I saw a test recently (on a dyno) that the motor had 90 PSI of oil pressure using 20W50. They changed to 10W40 and picked up about 10HP. I was amazed by how much they picked up but the numbers don't lie.

Rule of thumb is 10 PSI of oil pressure for every 1000 RPM.

Wick

[brucelee]

As I understand the grading system, the wider the range the better.

When cold (at zero degrees) the lower number indicates the viscosity and at start up, lower is better, so 0 is the best as it will flow more quickly upon start up with is what you want.

The higher number is the viscosity as extreme temp (cant remember exactly what temp). Here, the higher number is better so that the oil does not thin out.

So, as I understand it, the 0-40 would be superior in every way to a 5-30 weight.

Another way to go is 5-50 (Castrol syntec) which gives you a very wide range.

Any thoughts on this??

BTW-

Mobil 1 0-40 IS an energy conserving oil, while 15-50 is not.

This is tied to the specific friction modifiers added to the 0-40 as I understand it.

Bottom line, MPG should be better with the 0-40.

I THINK the above is correct.

[SKperformance]

You sound like you have a good understanding of it bruce.

I personally think you wouldn't need use a 40w oil in a newer car ,i perfer to use it in a higher milage one that could use the extra barrier for taking up tolerances in worn parts.

5 50 is over kill for many areas unless the car is used heavily in stop and go traffic.

0 30 is better for performance in regards to the co efficent of friction of the ligther weight oil. I perfer reduced frictoin over mpg.

0 40 makes more sense in an older car than a newer one which would have less need for it.

[brucelee]

I think that makes sense to me. I was going to use 0-40 in my sc400 for its next oil change (95 with 104K on it).

My thinking is that the lower vis would help on start up and higher vis allow for a bit more protection (live in San Diego but do head up to the desert at times, where temp can hit 115).

Thanks

BTW-use the 15-50 in my MC (air cooled twin) adn the oil is just plain awesome.

[TallKDR]

About the comment earlier about wider range being better, I have actually read in a pretty comprehensive oil analysis/research article online that a wider range is worse.

The reasoning they stated was that to achieve such numbers, an oil needs special modifiers that allow it to bond to itself differently at different temperatures. The idea being a single grade oil is very stable, while 0w-40 wouldnt be as much because it has many things in it working to bond differently as it changes temp.

So 10w-30 is actually more stable in the long run, than even 0w-30 and so forth.

But really, these are all somewhat small points. As long as you get a quality oil, even as cheap as Castrol GTX, for $1.50 a quart, youll be fine I believe. Change it regularly, and deal with the other problems that come up. If you are really a spirited driver, I WOULD invest in a some research to what breaks down the least. I once ran cheap Chevron oil (dont laugh) in my 280Z that I would drive the hell out of. After about 700 miles, the oil wasnt what it used to be. Seemed to be like very thin, like water. I personally believe it broke down and no longer really offered much protection for anything.

Castrol GTX however, for the money, is the best dino oil i believe.

Hope that helps.

No one here mentions redline I noticed. I personally havent used it, but some racers live by it, especially in the American car segment.l What do you guys think?

[brucelee]

One of the impressive things about mobil one 15-50 is how clean it stays in my air cooled VTWIN. This is one hot engine and oil breakdown is a concern.

Mobil One stays clean for much longer than the other oils I have used, esp dino oils.

[mktbully]

for the money mobil1 is the best oil you can get.

for dino oil castrol gtx performs as close to a synthetic. personally recommend it if you're running dino oil.

for the guys who have big wallets amsoil is also good. they claim to have extended drain intervals..but you make the call on that.

some good reading if you have the time.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/

what's more important is a quality filter and correct oil change intervals will prolong your motor.

also the color/appearance of the oil itself has NOTHING to do with how well it lubricates. if you're worried about your oil and how it's doing in the engine then what i recommend is sending the oil out to a lab.... http://www.blackstone-labs.com/ . the results you get will tell you what's going on w/ your engine and how's the oil doing.

[johnny3]

I bought a new Mercedes SLK, it has the 3.2 V6, first oil change MB dealer installed factory recomended oil. Mobil 1 0/40.

[brucelee]

>>also the color/appearance of the oil itself has NOTHING to do with how well it lubricates>>

I don't believe that this is true. To the degree that the oil retains its color AND remains free from contaminants, it suggests that the oil is NOT degrading and is hence, doing its intended job (more than simply lubricating parts) better.

Unless oil engineers are lying to us, I believe the ongoing condition of the oil as it wears IS an indicator of its quality.

[brucelee]

I bought a new Mercedes SLK, it has the 3.2 V6, first oil change MB dealer installed factory recomended oil. Mobil 1 0/40

I theory, I cant see why one would not use this weight in most car applications.

[SKperformance]

Actually the oil colour darkening is a natural sign of oil. It does not tell if it is broken down , as it used to be with older dyno oil before it became more complex than just digging a hole in the ground.

[brucelee]

Actually the oil colour darkening is a natural sign of oil. It does not tell if it is broken down , as it used to be with older dyno oil before it became more complex than just digging a hole in the ground.

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil remains free of sludge, varnish and other by-products of high temperature degradation. With no deposits to foul them, engines stay cleaner longer for top performance and efficiency and maximum service life

This is what I am trying to say. If an oil remains in the state you put it in (color, cleanliness, feel) it is a sign that it is doing its job and not degrading.

At least that is what I have always read. Do you have any cites that indicate otherwise??

[UCF3]

Sorry it took me such a long time to respond to this. There is no, Best oil to put in your car.

They're all really good. Since one of my sponsors is Mobil 1, I'm pervy to that brand. I have 204k SC, so I use 10w30 Mobil 1.

Castro Synthetic, Quaker State, Penzoil, they're all really good, and do the exact same job.

Mobil 1 0w40 is recommended after you've broken in your engine, after 1500miles. It is a cleaner, more efficient oil/lubricant, but most of us have some miles on our cars. I know the New Fords and Hondas use a special oil, and it's possible they're using something similar to 0w40.

As mentioned before, if you have no leaks, you can switch to 0w30-40, but it is recommended that you properly clean and lubs all parts of your engine, before use.

Read up on it.

http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS...obil1_0W-40.asp

[mktbully]

Actually the oil colour darkening is a natural sign of oil. It does not tell if it is broken down , as it used to be with older dyno oil before it became more complex than just digging a hole in the ground.

AMSOIL Series 2000 Synthetic 0W-30 Motor Oil remains free of sludge, varnish and other by-products of high temperature degradation. With no deposits to foul them, engines stay cleaner longer for top performance and efficiency and maximum service life

This is what I am trying to say. If an oil remains in the state you put it in (color, cleanliness, feel) it is a sign that it is doing its job and not degrading.

At least that is what I have always read. Do you have any cites that indicate otherwise??

no oil will retain the same color as you pour it in unless you have not started up the engine.

what i'm saying is don't just look at the oil and say.."well it looks dark time to change it"...people think that...but in fact the oil is still good and protecting the engine.

the quote on amsoil's oil...same can be said for mobil1..and most high quality syn oil.

if you look at the links i showed you the oil testing from blackstone labs will tell you if your oil can still be ran in the car (TBN numbers).

http://www.mindspring.com/~bill99gxe/Oil%2...s%20Results.zip

download the xls file from the link above. it's from a friend of mine who's a maxima owner and taken oil samples and recorded their facts. yes i also own a maxima so my test is up there too.

the TBN number explained..

http://www.blackstone-labs.com/do_i_need_a_tbn_.html

don't get brain washed by the oil companies. read the facts...learn them and understand them.

i don't want to start any arguuments or problems here. just want you to see the facts. unless you actually tested your own oil sample then all you're doing is speculating.

[UCF3]

http://www.mindspring.com/~bill99gxe/Oil%2...s%20Results.zip

download the xls file from the link above. it's from a friend of mine who's a maxima owner and taken oil samples and recorded their facts. yes i also own a maxima so my test is up there too.

Mktbully:

Question for you. What are the credentials for these people, providing information?

Just kind of curious. There are websites out-there that don't provide the best of the best info.

[mktbully]

http://www.mindspring.com/~bill99gxe/Oil%2...s%20Results.zip

download the xls file from the link above.  it's from a friend of mine who's a maxima owner and taken oil samples and recorded their facts.  yes i also own a maxima so my test is up there too.

Mktbully:

Question for you. What are the credentials for these people, providing information?

Just kind of curious. There are websites out-there that don't provide the best of the best info.

blackstone provides a result of the oil sample in a email format. the emails are forwarded to one person who's collecting the data. of course there will be slight bit of margin of error...but we're looking at a population sample.

the people who are taking samples are the DIYers just like u and me (i'm assuming you're a DIY).

basically you let the oil drain for 5-10 secs and then a bottle is stuck in the stream to collect the sample.

there are no manufacturers paying for it. each sample is paid for by each owner of the car. no bias is put on to anything. the comments are coming from blackstone themselves.