TallKDR

The different gearing in the AUTO diff is actually a PLUS. Itll make your car faster off the line. What you will sacrafice is topspeed. And, actually, you will be stuck cruzing at a higher RPM in 5th gear at the same speed as before. However, some 5spd diffs are Limited Slip. This is higly desirable. If yours is, you probably wont want to lose that. Make sure the one you buy has it to if you actually care. If you dont, why not get the auto diff. ACTUALLY, now here an idea. I want an auto diff. I have a perfectly working 5spd Diff. If I can get ahold of an auto one for a decent price, we can split the cost and shipping. Meaning if it costs me $500 total for the auto.. ill give you mine for 250. What you think?

About the comment earlier about wider range being better, I have actually read in a pretty comprehensive oil analysis/research article online that a wider range is worse. The reasoning they stated was that to achieve such numbers, an oil needs special modifiers that allow it to bond to itself differently at different temperatures. The idea being a single grade oil is very stable, while 0w-40 wouldnt be as much because it has many things in it working to bond differently as it changes temp. So 10w-30 is actually more stable in the long run, than even 0w-30 and so forth. But really, these are all somewhat small points. As long as you get a quality oil, even as cheap as Castrol GTX, for $1.50 a quart, youll be fine I believe. Change it regularly, and deal with the other problems that come up. If you are really a spirited driver, I WOULD invest in a some research to what breaks down the least. I once ran cheap Chevron oil (dont laugh) in my 280Z that I would drive the hell out of. After about 700 miles, the oil wasnt what it used to be. Seemed to be like very thin, like water. I personally believe it broke down and no longer really offered much protection for anything. Castrol GTX however, for the money, is the best dino oil i believe. Hope that helps. No one here mentions redline I noticed. I personally havent used it, but some racers live by it, especially in the American car segment.l What do you guys think?

Did you replace with polyurethane? If so, where did you get them from, is there a whole kit, and much how? I did the ENTIRE suspension on my 280Z, probably about 30 pieces. You thought a 90s lexus was tough to loosen up bolts and bushings, try a 76 :P I just busted out the blow torch. Also, why did you replace the entire arm? Ive seen them mentioned a few times before, do they go bad (bend?), or did yours just fail for a specific reason like an accident?

My 92 300 radio goes dead about once a a week. It doesnt turn off though, just goes quiet. Somehow i found that hitting it hard from the passanger side while driving brings it back. Why is it that slapping this car around seems to fix so much stuff. Maybe thatll help? ;-)

Are you sure yours is working properly? Mine extends out a shockingly far distance, to where I think it looks rather funny. Other than getting a creative mechanic/welder/machine shop to look at it, I dont think you can do much. I doubt theres a kit. Maybe you could put a spacer on the actual steering wheel mount instead of extending the entire steering shaft. I say you need to open stuff up a little and look around. See whats actually telescoping, and what would make it go out further. Goodluck. Just for your info, Im 6'4", so my seats pretty far back, and the wheel telescopes out far enough to that i can reach it with BENT ARMS when my head is behind the sunroof.

Im guessing it says 4.86 Meters for the length. Thats about 15.9 feet Am i right? Hope so.

Think if it was a bike. When you drop down to a smaller shaft in the rear, you make more revolutions per YOUR one foot rev. So if you make it so that your engine has to spin more to move you the same distance, it will do it much easier. This can be clearly seen that your car moves much quicker in first gear where the ratio is 3:1 lets say, and much slower in 4th where it is 1:1. The diff is just like that kind of gear, except its not adjustable. If you could have a 5:1 rear end, your top speed would go down to maybe 100 before you hit the rev limiter, but youd be flying in 1st (or burning rubber).

what do you mean by lower by ~3" but minimum of 1". Do you mean that the Supra seats are also adjustable?? If so thats great. So you mean i can adjust the supra seat to the bottom, and have 3 more inches of clearance than now? That would be nice. Thanks Paul

If you want some more info you should go out and personally try to make it happen again. Sit at a stop and press on the brake HARD. all the way down. The power brakes should let you do it. Then try and take off slowly. If it happens again, well, then you know something is up. Also, if your theory is brakes are holding. Try simply letting off the brake after you do that. The car should move forward on its own. If it doesnt, then i would say, yes theyre sticking somehow. (which is weird.. since brake pads dont actually MOVE, theyre always touching, they just provide more pressure really, with very minimal movement, i think its hard for them to stick)

Geez you two guys are everywhere ! haha. Thats great that these people here with a lot of info. I came from the zcar.com forums where theres a lot of info too. I do have access to a welder so I think I will make my own. Also, what do you guys think about ONE sport seat. I would like to leave my passanger a comftorable seat but think it would look pretty dumb. Thanks for the info though. Paul

Hi. I just bought my 92 Sc3000 5spd. Im 6'4", and I just do not fit well in this car. If i want to sit at a decent position, i have to tilt my head into the sunroof opening. No way of adjusting the seat, unless I recline it way too far back, is able for me to not touch the roof. I was thinking of purchasing an aftermarket seat and brakets. I have several buyers for my seats for about $300-400. So think Ill be ok. Has anyone bought aftermarket seats for this car? Did they have brakets available for you? Also, would a Supra seat fit? Are the brakets the same? How does the car look once you do that? Thanks Paul

Low ratio higher acceleration? Im not sure what the words actually mean, but to make it clear for those that might not understand (me) low, high, tall, short, it is clear that a 4.5:1 ratio would accelerate MUCH quicker than a 3.5:1. And if you are having trouble unbolting it because you dont have an impact gun, or the strength to use a smaller torque wrench, i bet youll problem will be setting the clearences correctly instead of just unbolting something :P And also, Im guessing you better have a dang good vice to hold that rear when youre trying to untorque 200 ft-lbs. To change gears out you have to take it to a prof. shop that does that kind of stuff. The only DIY part of all this would just be a straight swap from one car to another. Do any Supras have better gears than our ~4.1:1?

Thanks for that info. $200 is acceptable. I dont know how much people here know about these kinds of things, because with newer cars part swaps become more rare, but I think people should know that diff swaps are some of the best ways to make a car faster for cheapest amount of dollars. Only thing that happens it you run a little higher rpm on the highway. But overall, the kick in 1st and second is impressive and worth the money. If anyone has any more info, please post !

To me thats really expensive, but if you have the money I guess its easier to go for a 95. I personally think that if there is no difference between years, go for the lowest year, but still low miles. There is no real difference between a 92 and a 95 if they have the same miles, except maybe sun damage. Theres 92 5spds to be had for 6-7k on the private party market. Why pay 13k out the door at a dealer.

Damn it just realized the auto wont be LSD, no chance. Im pretty sure i have an LSD one right now, havent checked, but it sure does leave two skid marks behind itself. I think my plan went to hell unless theres a cheap Supra LSD diff with a better gear.

Hi. I tried to search for this toppic but didnt come up with anything. I just noticed the Autos have a higher numericly diff, than the 5spds. Has anyone done the swap between the two? Is it just bolt in? I would think so, why wouldnt it. However, the difference seems pretty small in the gearing. Is there a better donor car than an SC300 ? And if the auto diff into the 5spd is the way to go, how much do these usually run for a lexus? I know i was able to pick up 280Z diffs for $50. Dont think ill get that lucky here haha. Thanks in advance! Paul PS - here are the gears: final drive - 4.08:1 manual, 4.27:1 auto