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Everything posted by johnny3

  1. Make sure the tire pressure is up where it should be, then see if it tracks better. I,ve got the Falken 512's, very nice.
  2. Replace #6 wire. You can ck. the wire for it's resistance value with a Ohm meter, Just because it will jump spark to ground does'nt assure it will fire the plug under compression.
  3. I like synthetic in manual transmissions but in that limited slip diff. I'd use the Toy/Lexus OEM stuff, only 2 qts.,good for 60k or so, pretty good insurance.
  4. I think I'd change it a couple more times just to be sure, 500 mi intervals or so.
  5. I wonder if you could get one of those plastic bags for baking stuff in the oven & poke it inside the leaking tank, kinda blow it up a little,put the lid on over the excess plastic, trim off the excess ? It's not a pressure vessel situation, only a drain container. Worth a try, cheapo depot????
  6. No way do you need all that done with only 65k miles.
  7. I think the RF tires have such a stiff sidewall that the edeges wear-out prematurely. A conventional radial is much more forgiving as the soft side-wall lets the face of the tire stay flatter on the pavement. --johnny
  8. Yes, it's the R.F. tires, you've done well to get that many miles from them. The people that are changing to conventional radials are much happier with their 430's ride & quietness.
  9. Before you change them increase the idle speed some & try it a few days, see if it isn't better. Really sounds like a possible sp. plug. wire/sp.plug or vacuum hose.
  10. I got mine, direct replacement, AC Delco mfg.,it almost raises itself, just a little nudge.
  11. Take the rubber like bumpers off the hinges so the new ones can be installed in the fully extended condition.
  12. Battery, battery cables, or ignition switch(or it's wiring).
  13. If you still have your old OEM alt. or can get one, take it to a rebuild shop, they're much better than the otc rebuilts. Get you a little DC volt meter & put it across your battery posts so you can see what's going on, should read 13.5/14 volts, engine at idle speed.
  14. If the noise is occurring while the AC is on (comp. in service) you might put a little oil charge in to see if it helps, you can do that yourself. If the noise is coming from there with the system off then it's the comp. pulley bearing or comp. clutch failing.You may be able to have that fixed w/o discgh. the system providing there's room to remove the pulley/clutch assembly on the car, of course then the shaft seal would be easily acessable if it's leaking & for that you would have to dischg. system.
  15. Does it fall to zero or the peg when engines off?
  16. You need a good floor jack & safety stands to put under the car. Why are you changing the whole assembly?
  17. Harippa, if you keep the car & get it fixed, let us know what the fix was.
  18. Yes, I have Acura as well as Lexus, both brands definitely are the most trouble free & best quality on the market. It's a toss-up, Ive had several of each.
  19. I tried to send 3 but I'm not doing something right, I'll get someone to help me later, & send me a email & i'll send them to your email. johnny
  20. I have a 96 SC-300, 59k miles, non smoker, garaged, adult owned (62), Bordeaux Pearl (dark red), tan int., 2 sets of wheels & tires, orig. sticker $49980.00, $12k. send your e-mail address & I'll send pictures.
  21. I think it's too hi milage to start synthetic too, you'll start having oil leaks, thats my experence with several other cars. 5-30 is normal but with that hi milage try 10-30 for 1 change cycle & see what you think, I've had best luck with Castrol in Japanese cars, there's as many opinions on brands as there are people, but I would be very choosie about the filter. Do a search on oil filters & make your choice from that.
  22. Make sure you have tightened up the lug bolts evenly, then does the brake pedal pulsate/shake when you apply the brakes ? Did you leave one if the calipers loose? If not your rotors need trued up ( machined/turned.)
  23. Error code 25 is "Air-fuel ratio lean malfunction."
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