Toysrme

Take & re-clean the posts & temrinals, no matter how good they look. Then test the battery.

Sounds good to me, just keep tabs on it. All that really matters is the hot measurement.

Most pans only hold a couple quarts (They're very shallow) & all the valve body & other parts stay submerged all the time, so there's another couple of quarts. You don't drain half the fluid in the system by taking the bolt off a pan. Also, if the car is not level, you don't get a complete drain. Quick review Warm vehicle driving around Park & shift into every gear position & back to park Chekc A/T level again the hot marks.

In all honesty, I really don't think it makes a crap which style is used. The chances of crushing one with a cup, a band, or not getting one one tight enough by hand are all about the same. I think anyone that's been doing oil changes for awhile has killed one both ways. Most of the time, it's a filter some nitwad at someplace that does oil changes put it on too tight to begin with & you kill'em getting them back off.

UZI :D

Drain the diff & refil it. Takes like 9/10ths of a quart of ATF. (Dexron III) The axles are a pain in the !Removed!. Download the '94 Camry repair manual & open the pdf for steering / axle. That's the A541 transmission/diff, but it's the same basic thing. Otherwise buy a Haynes repair manual for the gen2 Camry or spend your $10 on techinfo.toyota.com to buy the OEM repair information.

For North America. '92-93 3vz-fe, '94+ MZ family ('06 Helloooooo GR family!) Take a pic of the intake manifold gasket next to a ruler, or tape or something.

'94 OEM Camry repair manual p0171 You're rear bank is running lean. o2 sensors read richer as they age, however when they age & read lean the heater portion may have began to fail, or it's go build-up on the o2 sensor, insulating it. Temperature can make a 33-50% chance in sensor output. If it's not up to temperature completely, it'll read leaner than normal. (If you haven't figured it out yet. Toyota EFI for engines with multiple banks have their fueling tuned for each bank. Fuel wise, it's two completely different engines. Spark wise it's the same engine.) Replacing the o2 sensor is the right call, because anything else giving you a lean burn will affect both banks to some extent.

It's a good idea. Most forums have their respective manuals stickied. Zip all the files into one large download. Most of Toyota's repair manuals come out to around 100-110mb. The pdf's are interlinked, so you can click & navigate between them.

Main relay & fuse sounds like a plan to me! No worries, we all do it. If it's any consolation, just do like we R/C pilots are fond of doing. Jokingly blame something else. "Well them damn Toyota's, ya know their battery posts are opposite of normal!) :D

Well there you go! So a 3.0L UIM would probably give some high rpm gain, but you'd have to figure something out for any vacuum parts you wanted to keep. To me, this sounds like a good project for somebody!

Niiiiice. ;) I'm not the only one to thank, there are tons of us that are in love with techinfo. Poor Europeans. They have to pay like $15-20 for their service! awwwwwww! :( All-data isn't the best by any means, but $30 for 5 years? That's a steal!!! That reminds me that i need to renew my techinfo account & download the pdf's for mr2's!

When you can center one up on the exhaust manifold. Because the 2vz rear bank is a crossover pipe to the front pipe, relocating the oil filter should provide a good space for a smaller turbo & have just enough left over for a downpipe. Might have to unbolt the top radiator mounts & move the rad a bit to put it down in there, but there's enough room for sure. We'll need to insulate the stuff with some wrap, or sheets, but that's nearly always the case. I have no opinion on the swaybars. Never driven one! Whiteline is nearly always tops. You could try asking on ToyotaNation. I don't honestly remember any gen2 Camry's that have sway bar upgrades. Wierd. I'm sure there are some floating around.

I have a nice strap wrench & almost never use it on the lexus because of space issues. I swear to god it spends more time in the kitchen openeing jars than it does oil filters. Just take your filter into your local parts stores & test fit all the cups. I got my cup one from napa, or autozone if I remember right. Haynes, "Hand tighten oil filter & add 3/4 turn with a wrench to seat the filter". Toyota, "Lightly screw oil filter into place, and tighten until gasket meets the seat. Using SST, tighten an additional 3/4 turn." So that's what I do. FYI The actual SST from Toyota is a cup wrench type.

Ofcorse you wouldn't. First three paragraphs Then apparently your knowledge doesn't extend to the hundreds of posts between the big 5. That's fine, but it's also not a transversly mounted engine with hundreds of instances of premature ejaculation. Again Not only YES, but the valve cover gaskets ARE NOT not a scheduled item. There is no reason for the valve covers to ever be taken off the engines in the first place. The closest "schedule" for them is at 250,000 miles when the first valve adjustment should be made. You can be sure as hell that the vast majority won't get close to 250,000 miles before they start leaking. Look at your 200,000+ v6 Camry/ES's. Nearly every one has big oil stains somewhere around the heads from oil leaking. That's not normal. The only oil loss should be through the breather systems & ring blow-by. Ask why worry about a stain? Because it's an oil leak... A stain one day dripping on the ground is a drip on a y-pipe the next day smoking like crazy. The difference is an inch - the concept is the same. Yes, I had established the fact that Toyota uses a cheap silicon based RTV knock-off. Again, your knowledge has been proven limited on this matter monarch. Dude... There are hundreds of threads in reference to the valve cover gaskets being a problem on the big 5 forums (for this engine/platform). (TN, LOC, CL, SG, AF) There really is no legitimate argument that can be made saying the valve cover gaskets are not a problem at some level, when all the evidence available says otherwise. Let's discuss possible permanent solutions, or atleast solutions better than "take it apart, clean it, put a new one in, bolt it down too loose & repeate in a few years".

Gen2 Camry Front & Rear sway bars. Grab you the AFM/MAF adapter off ebay that comes with the air filter. There's the $9 one & the $15 one. $15 one looks really, really good! Play with the AFM & Dizzy changes. (I think you did the afm, it's late & IDR) Get me to Virginia, or get to Alabama & let's make the world's first 2vz-fte. I bet we can do it for less than $600. (... it falls under "exhaust system" on that list LoL!) Post those pics of your 2vz-fe again. I want a shot centered on the front exhaust manifold, the engine & the upper intake manifold. (AIM them too me if you aint got a host). I remember thinking the 3.0L intake manifolds would never fit. (The larger runners & larger chamber would be a nice highrpm upgrade) However... The 3.0L exhaust manifolds might bolt on! Then you could have a real y-pipe made!!! There's some really good power to be made on a 2vz (Much more relatively to the other yota v6's) out of headers. Hell anything is better than that f'ed up crossover pipe that's there to begin with!!! Get me to Virgina or get your car to Alabama. I'm sure we could make a 2vz-fte for like under $600. I suggest you buying the big stuff before hand. ;)

If someone had some money, you could also JB Weld the groove full. JB Weld is awesome on Aluminum. They expand at virtually the same rate @ the same temperature. Or just weld it full...

If he were kidding he'da gone. No Zander, he's seirous. :chairshot: Check with the manufacturer of the hose. 99% of the hose manufactures in Autochain stores are going to be: Goodyear Gates Motorcraft AC-Delco (Whoever makes hoses for Dodge - For whatever reason I'm drawing a blank) Recognize, if you will, that we've just represented atleast 75% of the automotive hose suppliers in the world. I'm just guessing that the quality is going to be OK. it is going to be atleast as good, if not better than the hose that comes on the car. Permatex's RTV is the world's best known synthetic gasket making material. Ultra denotes a premium formula. Easier application, higher environmental condition ratings. Black is their formula that is the most resistant to oil The lifespan is proven virtually indefinite. Toyota assembly plants uses two cheap copies of RTV. One white, one black. Most OEM's use some type of real Permatex RTV on the factory floor. General use red is the most popular. Elevendy-Billion if you add up all the people that have used oil relocators, hose barbs, fuel/oil hose & some type of hose clamp to move their oil filter, add a filer, or tap for oil. <warning: beware of falling sarcasm> You do realize that the only other way to do this without hassle of looking up things that cross-fit is to buy the oil filter relocation blocks designed for a Ford Mustang. Dear God the humanity!? You wouldn't be able to use 100% Toyota parts anymore if you chose to use them! Why god, why!???????????????????????? Both proved resoundingly successful. Here, you can see the Lexus navigating the jungle of Driveway in the hots of August. While in this picture you can see just how quietly the car operates approaching a stop sign in the frozen artic of MyRoom Which is located on the And in this picture, you can see the potential performance ugprades of doing an oil filter relocation. Depends on several factors. If you want my opinion & rank on the biggest factors: 1) Engine load 2) Oil quality A light load it could range anywhere from a few min (few = 3, or more), to 10 min before there is catastrophic damage. Tho It will msot likely drive for longer. How many Honda videos have there been now where the drain the oil & put a brick on the gas pedal? One of them ran like 20+ min before it finally seized up. God forbid a beloved Toyota couldn't run as long as a Honda. You can run them with 3 quarts forever, provided you drive it in a fashion reflecting that you have no extra oil. It wouldn't be a lubrication problem, it would be a "I just uncovered the pick-up tube & lost oil pressure" problem. There's about a quart in the pump & galley systems, a couple cups in the heads & the rest is in the pan. So long as the pick-up can grab oil, it's A-OK.

This is a "your thoughts" thread. (For the remainder of the thread VCG - Valve Cover Gasket. RVCG - Specifying the REAR Valve Cover Gasket, FVCG - You are a moron if you need this definition) It's obvious Toyota's implementation for the v6's doesn't work. Blame whatever you want, but there is no arguing the fact that it simply does not work. Worse, nearly every engine has a VCG leaking to some extinct, almost EVER engine will have the RVCG leaking over time. IMHO it's from a culmination of two things: 1) I don't like the groove style VCG. The flat engine's use corker, rubber"ish", or rubber/steel core gaskets & have less problems. Not only that, but it is advantageous in that if it is ever replaced (for any reason) you simply use a tube of gasket maker & the seal is nearly indefinite. When applied correctly, they won't leak until you break the seal! 2) Improper valve cover gasket bolt torque. Even tho the rubber gasket provides some tension on the cylinder head bolts, the spec is 4.3-5.75ft-lb. They easily get loose, or are extremely over tightened when repaired. 3) 1 & 2 are compounded by the huge rearward angle the v6's are tilted at. So I'm sick of it. Sick of hearing about it. Sick of most of us considering it a "routine maintenance" item that should be replaced every time someone is going near them. "Oh well you're getting X done, Have them do the VCG's before they start to leak!" etc. Here's how I think we deal with it once & solve it for the last damn time. Supply list: Ultra Black RTV. RTV is *the* gasket "brand" of choice by everyone. Ultra Black is a premium line, and Permatex's most oil resistant RTV gasket. Even better. It is apply & go. (Non-premium RTV's need time to setup when mounted & some need to be re-torqued.) It could take 2 tubes. I used 1. Thread Locker (Medium - Loc-tite & Permatex Blue) M7-1 Tap Acetone, Paper towels, Q-tips. (Ya, ya Alcohol works, Acetone just eats oil so much faster tho! Ventilated area for both) Scraper (or something with a flat edge you can level with) 1) Clean the gasket mating surfaces with Acetone. I find you can push paper towels through the groove, but a few Q-tips make very short work of it & you can be sure you've cleaned it thoroughly. 2) Completely fill the groove with RTV & scrape it flat so that it's a flush surface. 3) Run your tap down the threads of the valve cover bolt holes. This will clean the threads up. 4) (After the RTV has cured - 24 hours) Apply your "normal" 1/4" bead of RTV as a normal application. 5) (IMMEDIATELY) Put valve cover on & bolt it down. Since we're no longer using a "light pressure to seal" gasket. Torque the valve covers down to say 18-20ft-lb. Using online calculators: The stock bolt & hole threads have a Recommended Torque of 15.2 ft-lb & Maximum Torque of 20.2 ft-lb (Not freaking 4-5ft-lb!?) I don't think it would be wise to drill & tap for a larger size, tho someone could. It'd be hard to drill large enough to have good threads, without having some huge bolt running down it. (I just don't think there is any reason for like an M10. Those would hold 40-50ft-lb! That's above the head gasket range!) Anywho... That's what I did.

Needed: Four - 3/8" barbs (3/8" = 9.5mm) Four 3/8" hose clamps 6' 3/8" Fuel/Oil hose Ultra Black RTV You will need a tap for your barbs if you don't have one. $2.50 shipped - ebay Instructions: There isn't anything to say that isn't obvious. Take the stock Toyota oil filter stand- off & cut it in half. Tap (& drill if needed) the channels to accept your hose barbs. Put your sealant around the threads & tighten (15ft-lb, or pretty hand tight is good enough). From there you have the one end that bolts to the block & the other that has the oil filter. You can relocate it anywhere you want. You can easily add dual filters, and/or an auxiliary oil cooler. The half where the oil filter goes is pre-tapped with two plugs at the ends of the oil channels. One can be removed to install an oil pressure fitting, or a hose barb (1/4", or 3AN) if you need a turbo / supercharger oil supply. ******************** For people not able to drill out their own channels, it may be hard to find 3/8" barbs that do not require drilling holes out before tapping them. I had my local Nut & Bolt house order me some to my specification. (9/16"-18 NPT w' 3/8" barb) *Note* If you're not afraid of under sizing the , 5/16" barbs are very common. The thread size is generally 9/16"-18 thread. The tap will fit straight into the oil channels without drilling. So if 3/8" barbs are unavailable, you can always try common 5/16" barbs. (0.375" VS 0.3125"). I wouldn't add a cooler on 5/16" lines, but otherwise there shouldn't be a problem.

Take a trusted floor jack, put a piece of wood on it & jack the oil pan up enough to take the pressure off whatever mount you're working on. (The wood keeps the jack from gouging the pan & denting it. Most jacks have little flanges & indentations on them.) The dogbone is easy. If you've got time to play around with it you can rebuild them for like $10. Buy some 3M Window urethane Bust out the cracked rubber & rebuild it with 3M. Needs a day to setup & cure by itself, then just bolt it back in. You could probably do the same thing for one, or two of the transmission mounts. I've seen them & thought about doing it, but didn't get around to looking at them closely. If you want it to feel stiffer (Better launches, but mroe vibration) You can find some poly inserts (Like Energy Suspension) & put them in there. (Again 3M it in place) http://products3.3m.com/catalog/us/en001/a...ler/output_html The dogbone is not load bearing. You don't need to jack it up to take it off, but the rest you will. $750 is your typical Lexus dealer crap. Buy them yourself & either try to put them in yourself, or pay an honest person to do it for you. (The rear mount is the biggest pain in the !Removed! ever. The axle runs through it. <_< Thank yoooooou Toyota!)

No man that's where you're wrong! Ship it in an easily damaged mode of transportation & pay your $1-5 for insurance! It's official... Radiator's gotta go!

No, that is a shift logic issue on cars a decade newer. Yes. I would recommend putting on a fuel pressure gauge & monitoring the pressure. Toyota systems generally run low fuel pressure under vacuum (Cruise/medium throttle) in the 30psi range. When you get around wide open throttle & vacuum decreases - fuel pressure should rise to the high 30's low 40's range. You can also be the first person I have ever told to replace the fuel filter! (They're very, very long lived.) Might as well check your ignition components. Plugs, cap & rotor, wires.

Expect right at 190whp @ 4psi. (It'll very about 5whp). This one has your basic ugprades: 6psi, basic upgrades, fuel tuning & the (now discontinued) Bosal headers. 3.0L Supercharger install If you have anything more than general / tuning questions, your best bet is going to be to swap between here & Solaraguy.com.

That doesn't mean it's the *best* way to test one. The "correct" way for any heated sensor (Anything in the last 15 years) is to: Test the resistance (ohms) & voltage of the heater circuit<s> Test the sensor (voltage) output<s> itself. Even that doesn't tell the story of your closed-loop sensor of choice! You need to know the output signals under real world conditions. The time to warm up from cold What it warms up to Responce time The only way to really know is to break out a multi-meter.