Toysrme

Remember he has a '94. 92-94 = round projector fogs w' yellow filter before the lens. I love silverstars, good output without much investment.

That is just so wrong on so many levels. 1) Octane increases emessions, not decrease it. 2) Remember that back in the day, high compression when the nice v8's first started coming out were 7.5:1. Modern N/A engines are not only atlease 10:1 compression - they also develope two, or three times the power for the same displacement. You do realize that ever descent output v6 of the last few years can not run 87 octane without pinging like crazy? You also realize that without knock control systems in place - you'd be knockling like crazy on your 2jz-ge the next time you passed 1/3 throttle? Remember, knock control is a passive device. It doesn't "fix" pre-ignition, they react to it. That being said, if the OEM states it can run 87 octane - always safe your money & use it. If they state will run on 87, but needs higher octane to preform well, it's a toss-up. I don't like answering old questions, but no I wouldn't use E85 after having used a few tanks of it before. Performance, and mileage is unbelieveably low. These engines are also not rated safe to use it with. It'll get you home if you're out of gas, but that's about it.

$15-20usd 92-96 haynes Camry repair manual. $10usd Techinfo.toyota.com Download the '94 Camry repair manual & deal with the fact you have a '92 A540-E Transmission & a 3VZ-FE engine. AFA rotors I'll keep it short. Drilled rotors are jujst behind ebay power chips as the dumbest thing to buy for any car.

No you don't, you've got the right part. Put it on the car!

LoL! I think it's overplayed anyways. Lots of A/T cars have the exact same thing, but there just isn't as much whining. Ya I said it! (Where's the Did I say that, You bet I did smilie?) Leave the A/T hesitation discussion for threads where it's on topic. Yes, you should adjust your driving style to suit the conditions. As with everything in life, people adjust even if they don't realize it. Cars should 100% be adjusted to.

Reset the ECU. If it comes back, replace the 2 main o2 sensors. Bank 1 is the right hand bank (rear). Sensor 1 is the main o2 sensor, sensor 2 is the post cat o2 sensor.

SW03ES, they do.

I know Army knows the answer. I don't, but I see no reason why it won't swap. 88-91 Camry seats swap. So 90-91 ES & 88-91 Camry seats should too!

No biggie. Most insurance rolls over to other vehicles. Grace period for new cars, or driving someone else's. Justmake sure before you wreck it! :D

LoL! Ya I normally run in the neighboorhood of 25-75, with tap water & water wetter. Water wetter is the shiznits. Great inhibitor package & raises the lubricity of the coolant. The big thing is getting rid of the coolant before the inhibitor package starts breaking down 'cause two things happen 1) The coolant goes back to attacking metal it comes in contact with 2) The anti-freeze in the mix starts to sludge/gel up That's why they tell you to flush coolant atleast every other year. ;) So it doesn't matter what kind of water, anti-freeze, and driving conditions you have. Ya, the clean water is better, but in all honesty, if you stick to the directions of flush it every other year (Or drain it every year) it's not gonna matter. 's about like oil. If you're gonna do some short interval (like 3 months , 3,000m) it doesn't really matter what crappy oil you use. (as long as it meets the requirements).

I wouldn't re-use it. A gallon of anti-freeze is only a couple dollars & water varries between free & cheaper than dirt. http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#enginecooling3 http://www.mkiv.com/faq/faqtt.html#enginecooling6

Exactly.

Noone is 100% yet. Nobody's found/taken pics that can't easily be argued it's a different car. Go look at the Camry pics & the imagine the front end looking a couple fractions better & a color that doesn't look like I barfed it up.

I would start by flushing the fluid out. Then inspecting that the goodies like the balljoints, tie-rod ends & rack & pinion have grease on them. Tho normally, incorrect tension on a belt will cause a horrible noise, check the condition of the belt also! Could be a leaky pipe/hose, or a bad pump, but I would check the better stuff too.

Yes it's real. The Avalon has the 280bhp 2GR-FSE (The detuned 306hp 2gr-fe). The next gen Camry is confirmed to have the 2GR-FSE w'w 6speed A/T, a 152bhp i4 5speed M/T, A/T & a 192bhp Hybrid draivetrain (i4 & CVT). Keep in mind horsepower figures have yet again changed. The 280bhp the 2GR-FSE makes is now rated @ 268hp. It's the same engine w' the same power. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=188219

Well most of the hexagon rods i looked at a long time ago measured out to be like 7-8mm. If you can't get it drilled out to fit the two LED's, you can shave the LED housings down & then do it.2* 3mm would take some real skill, but if you grind em down to like 2, or 2.5mm doesn't seem so complicated. I was just curious about the idea. Most of the radio shake stuff is pretty weak. From what I remember the last time I went to one (Spring/Summer) I'm thinking I was amazed that they even had a handful of 3000-3600mcd ones. Most of it is sub 1000mcd & the "high power" are like say 600-sub3000 if I were to blindly guess. Any LED is bright if you look at them head on. It's a little speck of concentrated light. If it's got a housing around it (The clear epoxy part). They're designed to focus the light in a small arc. Normally from 5-20*. Even a tiny bit of light can be made into alot of light. =) So no, I wouldn't trust what the computer guy as far as you can throw an attached mouse! I wouldn't worry too much about grabbing LED's off ebay. I bought a pack a year, or two ago. It's about like buying an ES, Windom & Camry all coming from the Tsutsumi Plant. The build quality itself is the same thing, regardless of the parts used. The two big makers on ebay are in China & Taiwan. That's what you see on ebay. A couple of people actually test them (LED Museum has done a few @ random sent in & Candlepower forums has some people that have done it). Normally the few ebay LED's tested either surpass the rated output, or grossly surpass it. A small number undershoot. Go figure, it's like anything else! =) The guy on the DIY website said his 1100mcd & a 10,000mcd weren't much different. I bet a 35,000mcd would be! Just be sure to try your other LED's & a different resistor. Ya never know when you've just got bad parts.

ahhhhhh I just can't get away from that. Tere are bunches of 5mm led's over 30,000mcd. I would be curious as to: 1) How bright a ring is with a 5mm 35,000mcd+ led 2) How bright a 10mm 110,000mcd led 3) How bright a 1, 3 & 5 watt Luxeon Star would be 4) How the angle of the housing/light output affects brightness Edit 5) How bright 2x per end (4 per ring) 3mm 15,000mcd led's would be

It's just welding alu to alu. Nothing hard.

Don't forget about when he put the foil on the back to make them brighter. http://www.geocities.com/jvxdriver/eagle_eyes_upgrade.htm I would be curious as to what would happen if you put something shiny against the back side - making it in affect a mirror. 10mm LEDs 5mm LEDs

^ All you gotta do is mod the relay to turn them on whenever you want. Pretty easy. Somebody even wrote a how too a few months back. :) Check it out! Then you can impress passer-by's with real bling! It's a must do if you haven't yet!

The throttlebody itself, rarely. Eventually the carbon from EGR will make it stick a little bit, but that takes a long time before the throttle & ACIS plates start to stick. I suggest cleaning the upper intake every 9-12 months. Overactive EGR takes 5-10 horsepower from the build-up.

Yes any 55-65w h3 bulb will work. The foglights are not yellow bulbs, there is a yellow tinted piece of glass behind the lens to make it yellow. The type of bulb you put it in isn't going to matter. You can either swap for new fog lights, add another set, or try to take the projector a part. Many of us find that color yellow is pretty hot. ;)

I know it won't fit inside it (that project has be around for years), but you can easily shave the housings down to either mate flat @ the end, or slip in like a 5mm led. The transfer won't be quite as good, but 12x the light output will more than make up for it. :) kcpth try another led. I bought 15, or 20 blue led's from radioshack for some projects years ago & maybe 1/3 of them didn't work at all. Re-check yourself too. Are you sure you're passing voltage the correct way through the led? (Doesn't matter which pole the resistor is on, tho normally they're installed on the negative side). Swap to a 420ohm resistor.

2600mcd isn't much light. 5mm LED's in the 7500-12500mcd range are common now. If it were me, I'd ditch the panzy 5mm LED's for some real ones. Luxeon star's are $$$ but LED's don't come better. You can buy 10mm LED's in the 40,000-50,000mcd range. That is a lot of light out of a normal LED. Now with a couple of those, you could make some serious headway into having some bright rings!

That' cool man, but you're digging for gold! ;)