Toysrme

If it's been knocking awhile it's not likely rod bearings if you've kept the oil changed on time. If it was a rod, or main bearing. You'd be driving along, the bearing would overheat & desintigrate. I've never seen a 100% failed Toyota timing belt tensioner. Most tend to get stiffer as they age. Could be anything rotating. Put your head in the engine bay & find out what it is. Triangulate the position of the noise & we'll try to figure out what the cause is. If you're just really bad at it, or having trouble pinpointing it use a stethescope. Hell I don't care use one of the cardboard wrapping paper tubes. I would eleminate the alt, A/C & powersteering pump first.

Maybe so. The streering racks are very power assist dependant. It takes great effort when the powersteering pump (engine) is off. Check the powersteering fluid level, flush it if you feel like it. I guess you could always make sure everything is still lubricated etc.

When it blinks there is a trouble code stored relating to the transmission control portion of the TCCU. You should be able to get the code scanned with an OBD-II scanner. You can also bridge E1 & TE1 in either diagnostic port & the O/D & CEL lights will flash codes (Numerically). & you can look it up yourself (or we could whatever) Normally it's just something dumb like a speed sensor, or shift solenoid (If you're missing gears). Someone slightly mechanically inclined can change those on their own with a manual. (Or just someone patitent with tools), or pay someone honest to do it.

Medium-hard use brefore they're fully broken in. Heating followed by rapid cooling. (Driving around & washing the car - rapidly cooling the rotors - driving through large puddles.) Hard use without warming the brake system up. That's just normal rotors. God fobrid they're drilled.

Nope. That's the outer CV joint. If it clicks when you turn, or clicks all the time you need to replace it - as the joint is going to overheat & split in half eventually. (Normally later rather than sooner). If it doesn't make a noise you need to have a new boot packed with grease put on ASAP before you damage it too bad. I would start with a good alignment, check for warped rotors/dragging caliper, bad suspension mounts & a blown strut.

Every pad & rotor has break in time. Most makers advise soft braking for 100 miles on new pads, 1000 miles on new rotors. No medium- heavy braking. No getting them hot & exposing them to water. Cool beans on the pads. Most of the time there are cupon codes for tire-rack if you look through various forums. They advertise in a loooot of places. btw if the brake fluid is 3 years old - no parts are going to cure any fade. Only new brake fluid will. :D

Some intersting points to add. The v6's all use the 41psi pressure regulator. The injectors are all rated @ 41psi. The fuel pressure regulator only runs 41psi when the vacuum supply is disconnected!!! Otherwise the working pressure runs between 33-37psi. The stock FPR when fed boost will rise @ a 1:1 ratio with boost for a few psi (IDK how many, maybe 10-15 until it has no room to move. Remember a 1:1 ratio doesn't add fuel, it simply keep fuel pressure up with pressure in the manifold, keeping you from loosing flow under boost.) The 2vz-fe group fires it's injectors in 3 set's of 2 injectors. Anything later is sequential (One at a time). So I would over fuel more than normal to keep the fuel distrobution even. The 3vz-fe is cool, it's the only Toyota engine with air-assisted injectors. :)

This is the ES sub-forum. Atleast ask on a sub-forum of a vehicle that uses the same engine (2jz-ge). AFAIK by '01 the 2jz-ge had become a wasted spark ignition, so that would be 3 coils. But I don't keep up with them, so take that with a shaker full of salt.

The blanks fade less (More mass) and are the slightest hair larger (I forget offhand). Akebone ProAct pads are great for driving around, but I wouldn't use them as front pads in a sport application, or if you drive hard. You need track pads for that.

Ebay, junkyard, TAP Recycling a used unit from an ES/Camry. Maybe they killed your CC-ECU. Make since. You have to run a remote start through the IGN power supply at some point after the fuse. Which means if they shorted something during the install, or created a spike of some kind - it would have hit the CC-ECU unshielded. Make since 2 me.

I want a few turbos. Maybe you can arrange for a few to "get lost" during the big move to CA! eBay bigturbo2win ! Nice shots! Cold sucks, get your !Removed! back in a warm climate.

:) You'll like them! Anything descently new is better than old old old!

Welp, on my 3vz-fe wiring diagram the CC ECU get's power from the 25amp STOP fuse, and the 15amp IG fuse. On the 94-96 1mz we've got the 15amp STOP & 15amp ECU IG. They're most likely both OK as your car apparantly moves & I doubt you've been given tickets for having inoperable brake lights. :D

:( Pretty much true. You just deal with different ideosyncrasies for different stuff. Obviously A/T transmission lifespan can't be known - unless damage is present beforehand & you can say - we'll that POS is gonna die real soon! On the engine, get a compression test done. 178psi normal 142psi minimum no more than 14psi between 'em. 160+ is good. 150's & either the cam timing is off - or the rings are wearing. For the money they're good cars - obviously that opinion is biased, but better daily driver cars for less money come few & far in between. Anyway it goes let us know.

Really depends on where it ticks from. Lotsa things can tick. Ticking is really a kinda hard thing to do over the internet. If you've got the car, stick your head in the engine bay. Use your ear to triangulate the posision the ticking is coming from & then maybe we can figure it out. About anything that rotates can cause a tick. If it's the valves/lifters it'll come from inside the valve covers If it's the valves I wouldn't worry about it until you can get around to doing something about it. There isn't overly dangerous about putting your head in the engine bay. Avoid touching the positive battery terminal & anything else, don't touch a rotating belt (The FAN won't hurt you), try not to touch anything hella hot.

Give them 100 miles to break in, give the rotors 1000. Then enjoy it. Change the brake fluid too (Ya I know, it's a week late LoL).

Check the cruise control fuse, cruise control wiring, cruise control solenoid, the switch & the two harnesses. Kill the remote start.

Flush the ATF & get back to us ;)

$2500 is a good deal after you pay everybody & do some maintanence on it. (Timing belt) CV boot needs to be done ASAP. When they split they fling the grease they hold at. This causes an extreme wear rate on the joint itself wearing it out quickly. From there they click while you turn - then click all the time - then the joint snaps in half & you've got 1 wheel drive. Valve cover gaskets leak. I'm guessing you've found that out by now! ;) Normally they just drip every now & then - hitting the Y-pipe (exhaust crossover/merge) & smoking. Doesn't hurt the engine, but it's annoying. Not really a big deal to changing them, but if you don't wanna it's not going to be expencive to have an Indy mechanic do it. Valve adjustment is the biggest pain in the !Removed! ever. What's the deal? Does it tick anytime the engine is spinning? Not a problem, drop the transmission pan & give everything a quick wipe down. Scrape the old cork gasket material off & use acetone to clean all traces of oil off (Bad stuff for you, but about nothing will eat the oil faster). From there I like Ultra Black RTV, but you can use another cork gasket - whatever floats your boat. When it's back on fill it, run it around the block, park, shift to all positions so fluid 100% circulates. Top the fluid level off. From there either: 1) Flush it 2) Drain & re-fill it atleast another 2 times - would be better to do it another 3 times & the more the merrier since you can't change all the fluid via a drain & fill. If you want to drive this thing into the ground on that transmission, this is also a good time to go get you some 3/8" fuel/oil hose & add an auxillary transmission cooler. Rear brakes Nothing to it. 1 Loosen lugs 2 jack car 3 take wheel off 4 unbolt one 14mm nut & flip caliper upwards 5 remove old pads 6 suck some fluid out of the brake resivoir 7 C-clamp the piston back 8 apply anti-squeak to new, pad-shim & piston 9 install pads in reverse order. struts I know the feeling. ;) ROTFLMAO! I like you! Any Gen3 Camry washer tank will work. Check junkyards, call TAP Recycling Always some on ebay around $30 shipped If the cat & EGR work, it should pass unless it's running really rich, or really lean. Just flush the transmission & change the valve cover. You're really looking at a hundred-couple hundred bucks to get it where you can drive it around & not worry about stuff. A full tune-up would only run a few hundred if you paid someone. (Flush transmission, powersteering, brakes, oil, change differential fluid New plugs, distributor cap & rotor - check wires do not replace if OK 2x o2 sensors, check for vacuum leaks, new air filter, new PCV valve Clean upper intake manifold/TB/EGR/IAC valves) If you did it yourself that's about $175-220 depending on what kinda stuff you got on hand & local stores etc. + 90-200 for plug wires + $20-50 for an intake hose - if they're busted. Car sounds good to me. It doesn't need anything anybody else's v ES/Camry needs by 90,000 miles. Just normal preventative maintenance stuff. Don't mind monarch. I say if you've got 2000-3000 to spend, buy a Civic for $500, turbo it for another $1000, then spend $1000 on maintenece items & upgrades. You'll still get 30-40mpg, or skip the turbo & have your next year's worth of insurance paid.

ES 300 ES300 Camry I have noooooo idea what those random $37.50 struts are, but maybe someone knows.

I forget how, but there are directions for doing it. Search here & CL & see if you can find 'em.

All the rear gaskets are bad to leak from the angle they rock it back to. Like he said, rear valve cover gasket, rear main seal, misc. oil seals, sloppy oil change place. RMS is an oft quoted problem, but in honesty over the years The rear valve cover gasket has been the main culprit. To me, it's turned out much more often to be the rear valve cover gasket once you go back & rear all the threads a valve cover & RMS show up together. That being said, ya I had to get back there & do my RMS too 5, or 6 months ago. It would drip a few drips here & there. Annoying. <_< Go to a Toyota dealer for the RMS, they only charge about $325 for it. I hate oil change people, they're all retarded. Last week I got to deal a with a woman where Jiffylube put powersteering fluid in the brake res & this week they changed somebody's oil, the guy get's about 35 miles & it runs rough. 40 miles & the engine siezes. Upon inspection the oil fill baffle & bottom of the oil cap are devoid of new oil, and the filter is bone dry. Really sad too... It was an '88 Camry 3s-fe with just over 30,000 miles. :chairshot:

Coolness. ;) Which Hawk pads did you get? I love my HPS's. Warm them up & they're as grabby & stiff as and descent racing pads, but if they're cold they're as smoothe as the best street pads & have a long lifespan compaired to real racing pads. IDK about the control arms. Check Lexus/Toyota/internet & local autoparts stores I guess.

Na man I was combo funning the 250 & the escort. From here own out known as the 250ES. :D Ah I thought you meant Baghdad, France. One of my best friends got back last spring. He said it's fawking hawt.

Like we talked about - You're most likely pre october '94 - meaning you've got the 92-94 serviceable struts. It's better to convert to 95-96 sealed struts, and have a 100% new strut than it is buy a re-charge kit. Normally cheaper to buy a 95-96 than a new 92-94 strut anyway.