eman_be_lexin

Not yet, The car has been sitting as I just got back from vacation. I am going to take it apart this weekend. Will Post Pics when finished.

Thanks so much for your input. I ordered them and will try to do a write up on it this weekend.

I am sure once I get the wheel off that I can figure it out. Thanks so much for the pic, it definately helps when I have a visual aid to go by. Will I need 1 or 2 bushings for the right side? I am thinking about doing the left side as well so I guess I should just get them all at 1 time.

Thanks for the information. I am pretty handy with fixing things as long as I don't need a weird tool to perform the job. Do you think this is something that a person can do themselves or better left to be done at a shop?

I figured out what the problem is this weekend. The control arm bushings are dry rotted and pretty much gone!! There is no isolation from the control arm and the bar on car that it attaches to. So when I hit a bump or I get to at least 40, the wheel rocks side to side the same distance as if the bushings were in place. Now my question is, can just the bushings be replaced or do I have to get an entire new control arm assy?

I am setting her up on Saturday Hopefully I can get it straight. It has to be something painfully obvious

I have a weird problem where my rear passenger tire shimmys on while driving at any speed. I don't know if it is the ball joint or the sway bar bushings. I am going to replace the sway bar bushings this weekend. The weirdest thing is that I am able to pivot the wheel side to side just by kicking the side of it. Does anyone know what that means or what the culprit is? I would like to try to replace the part myself if possible.

It definately seems like something is very loose. I wonder what a bad wheel bearing sounds like? My car has 230K on it, so I think I just need new stabilizer bars in the back.

I am experiencing that same situation also. I only hear it when I am going around a curve towards the left. I haven't replaced the sway bars yet though.

I had that same problem with my 97 ES. I don't know what year your ES is (maybe I didn't see it) but mine has heated seats and the way I got to the bulb was I pried out the heated seat buttons, disconnected the harness from the switch and pulled the wood cover up. The bulb is right under the shift indicators. It is just 1 bulb and it only cost me $3.00. The two heated seat switches snap into the wood cover. They come out fairly easily. Be very careful not to crack the wood cover when pulling it out. You should be able to get a flat head screw driver to help pry the front of the wood cover out of the console as well.

I have a 97 ES300 that was working perfectly until the temperatures dropped to 15 deg. The next morning, I noticed that I had no power steering and there were no puddles under the car. I checked the reservoir and it was bone dry. There is a lot of fluid around the black hose going to the side of the reservoir. Is that hose the return or the High Pressure? Also is the power steering pump the same in the 97 Camry V6? I can still drive the car but it feels like I am driving an old Cadillac with no power steering. I supspect it is tight because i have aftermarket wheels that are almost 2x wider than the factory. :cries:

I am having the same problem with my front end too but my struts were replaced 2 years ago. Only about 100,000 miles. I am haiving the control arms, stabilizer bar, and bushings replaced next week. Does anyone have a diagram or picture of where the "bump stop" is so I can try this same procedure? I will try that to see if it works before replacing the control arms.

I have a 1997 ES300 and I wanted to connect an aftermarket amp and sub to the factory system. I already ran the power wire from the battery to the amp. I used the existing wires that connect to the sub in the back window to the input side of the amp. For the life of me I don't know what wire in the back of the head unit will give me the 12V I need to connect to the remote port of the amp. Is there a specific color wire that will give me that constant 12V?

Tanx!

I had my transmission replaced last year and I am noticing that my shifting is a little lazy. I was reading in the forum about resetting the ECU but no instructions on how to do it.