Toysrme

Yep, with any cleaner. Clean the valve, check the vacuum control lines, reset the ECU.

It'll be OK. Just make sure it's a good bodyshop. At this point, about anybody with experience can match paint 100%. If they spend time doing good prep, even if you pulled the parts off the car you'd never know anything about them! I've never hit anything (but i did flip backwards off the 20' cliff that one time) parking, but I swear it always happens on the quick trips. Buddy hit my 'rolla door backing out of his basement. His mom did the same thing to their new(late model) Bayliner & hit it hard enough to knock it 20' into the neighboors yard! In college I had to run in the dorm for TWO seconds (really i was 5' in the door) BANG Some prick in a truck takes out my rear 1/4, bumper & light. Then runs off & nobody ever sees him again. No worries, *BLEEP* happens.

Buy an old civic to beat around in for $500 & get 40mpg like me. Then keep it for more than 10 years as a back-up car. :) You can save tons of money like that.

Correction grasshopper. Finished modding the transmission last week! The army should let you get on AIM more. Make them give you a CP with an AIM connection. ;) It's back together =) Ofcorse I finished it & put the first 5 quarts of new fluid in after using a half tube of Ultra Black RTV to seal the pan. I look down & see one metal line (you can't see it in any of my pics) laying on the ground & this one check ball that kept falling out that i THOUGHT i had in there for the last time! hahahahahahahahahahaha Hey atleast it was only $5-5q walmart fluid. I wound up re-tapping half the holes & running half the bolts through a die to get them to go back in without cross-threading. Hah that's what happens when it's dark I guess!

You mean the wire clip on top of the powersteering pump? That turns the hydraulic fluid going to the hydraulic radiator fan from low to high. Otherwise no. All Toyota's that use a hydraulic powersteering (Minus very rescent electricall / electrically assisted) use manifold & pre throttlebody vacuum to adjust the powersteering pressure. It's not electrical. On mine. (engine before yours) There is an engine ground wire that runsto that general area.

Don't worry about the HG's. The heads are flat & have a nice coarse texture to it to grab the gaskets. I also put a little texture on the heads as well after I cleaned them up. The compression ratio should be up around 9.8-9.89 so we all figured. The gaskets are rated to a CR of 12. 5psi should work out into the low 12 range. You'll have to excuse me because I've bought & compared lots of hardware on the engine for the last year, so I may be off size wise. The stock head bolts are M10-1.25 12 Pointed 12mm hex head. My nut & bolt house drives nothing but Toyota's & they sell tons of hardware to car people. They figure all the hardware Toyota uses on their engines is just a grade 8.8 (30ft-lb). I drilled & tapped them & stuck in some M14-1.5 12 pointed 12mm hex heads in a grade 12.9 (>150ft-lb) a couple weeks ago. :D For a 3vz-fe Stock is 25ft-lb + 2x 90* turns. I've got them on @ 50ft-lb. (Stopping @ 25, 37 & 50) In the last few days I ordered 40 new camshaft bearing cap bolts & re-tapped them. Right now the plan is to drive like it is. If & when I do more than 5psi I'll take the valve covers back off to check how the new cam bolts are doing & then I'll torque them back up to atleast 100ft-lb. (You guys don't want to begin to know the effort in doing that. It's hard work!)

I think not. ;) :D

Thanks! I've got about 10' of pipe from lowes sitting outside by the car waiting to be cut up & a couple of mandrel bends left.

I love electronic controls. The best drivers will never be as good in any way a computer can be with good engineering behind it. God forbid you take the average person. But ya, it's way more fun if you don't ahve any, or can turn it off. The side way is the fun way!

93ls400walt While true, you have to have a battery in good condition for a car to run. Simply put, no alternator can put out enough at low RPM to run a car reliably. Even most high output / rewound alts don't gain more than 20-30% over stock for that first 1/3 of the rpm range.

OOOoooo We forgot to tell you to upgrade the big 3 too.

I think it falls under the Miata syndrom. Toyota wanted a battery with the posts swapped to the opposite ends so more people would buy a battery they sold. (Miata's use a tea-tiny Panisonic battery) It's the same thing with Toyota's metric hardware & even more like Ford's hardware. Toyota has odd little qualities about their hardware for no other reason that to get you to buy their stuff @ 10x the price. Ford takes standard hardware, then creates a f'ed up pitch to the threads so you either buy their stuff at many times the price, ut something normal in there & hope it doesn't strip, or you drill & tap everything to a normal size. Most likely, like everyone else, they just went to a large supplyer with stable prices that can ship in easily. Panisonic fits into that mold of thinking.

$164.69 is the running total this time around. (Without shipping) but I bought a couple of little tools & some odd stuff I needed also. A 9/16"-18 SAE Tap & some hose barbs to make the remeote filter & some 1/8" fuel/oil hose to feed the turbo. Ebay is cool. I need to make a new exhaust too. I guess that's gonna be like the header project. On a back-burner until after everything else is done. But ya, pretty cheap. Ya, you can get about anything put into the compressor section & just have the turbine clipped. I'm staying stock, less I still feel like keeping the car next spring & building an A/T. The stock CT-26 off a supra will run about 310-320 horsepower @ stock 5psi. 10psi puts out 340-345. That's really all the transmission will hold without a rebuild & more than it can take if you beat on it. We'll have to see how that goes.

Good stuff dcfish! Anovice you can use a Camry ant assembly if you want. They're cheaper. Only change is that they are 1 position, while the Lexus version is 2 position.

Cookie to stevej! Just rebadged Panisonic. Battery warrentee/replacement has always been such a joke. Half of them with a 5-7 year don't make it & the ones that do, if you were to test them they'd be in bad shape. The general rule of thumb is if you check between the cable & post, there shouldn't be more than about 20ma of current draw with the car & everyhting in it off. "Optima-ish" gel cell battery's seem to be the best. A bit more expencive, but they are the best. They're sold on generic size. For 92-96 it's: D51R Dimensions- L9.5in x W 5.1in x H 9in D34/78 also fits. It tends to require shimming up so it fits under the bracket & making/replacing the wires longer to reach. Beware of what models you do get. A test fit is the best way. Or breaking out the tape measure!!! As a lot of Optima's have the posts swapped to the wrong ends. You don't wanna have a Lexus & be looking like a dork! Hawker Odessy's are pimp too!

Yep. There is one aftermarket set for JDM Windom's. Unfortunately if ES tails get a 4 on the fugly scale, the "upgrade" get's a 5. Extremely difficult to find (I've seen one, two pictures of them). They're not worth it. Grit your teeth & bare it. You can take them apart & mod them yourself if you have ideas in mind, or have someone else do it. Money talks.

Cuz most replacement plug wires are very low quality. (Falling under the thermostat rule. 25% failure rate 'cause they are pre-damaged, or installed incorrectly). I'm just guessing you bought whatever is @ the auto-store instead of paying Toyota around $100 for the OEM wires, or other high quality wires. I may be wrong there, but ya know. Bosch platinum plugs (& American brand plugs in general) do not work well on Denso ignition systems. They simply require too much energy to spark well. They tend to loose lots of spark within 5, or 10 thousand miles. Given a year of running time, even the cheapest plugs out of Japan kick the crap out of Bosch platinum (Get's worse with multi-electrodes). The only way to get the high energy plugs to work long term without changing to big coils is to mod the stock coils to charge longer. That's actually easily accomplished by making the dwell time longer. Cost a couple dollars & a half hour to do. The problem is the style of coils Denso uses in most Toyota passanger engine's have been known to burn up if you over do it & the only way to check it is with something that can read the dwell. Maybe I'll write how to do it in the future. Mine's been done on & off since '04. More spark is fun LoL! (When I first started playing with my SMT-6) Timing Coil Vacuum leaks If everything else under the sun TOK's. Ditch the Bosch plugs for something NGK, or Denso plugs. I would do plugs after testing everything else possible.

What's: ignition timing Resistance of the coil compression (on every cylinder w' the engine warmed up) Be ready to ditch the spark plugs & wires you just bought too.

What do the A/T flex-plates weigh? I need to take mine off @ some point if I keep mine b/c my ring gear has a few teeth worn off. Might as well either try to lighten it, or install a lightweight fly-wheel instead!

mmmm Rephrase the quesiton & infromation plz. I'm dumb.

No more turbo too small for me! You can see the freaking crack in it <_< LoL!

I wuold start by pulling the res off & checking it, the fittings that go to it, and the the res end of the feed & return tube.

Find one in a junkyard & get the hood. All ya gotta do is swap the hardware over. They're only held on by 4 bolts. (You'll need a buddy to lift it) TAPRecyling.net CALL them & ask if they have a 92-96 hood in your color.

Ya I'm sure a bunch of people do - that's cool, welcome & glad you're enjoying it! I couldn't live without my 1200.1 JBL driving the two 10" Kicker L7's. They hella loud. Search.

To refresh. 1pm: 1:15pm: 1:20pm: Still gonna be afew days. I need to go get some all new camshaft bearing cap bolts & another tube of Ultra RTV black.