Toysrme

Santa said he forgot half of it. So you'll have to re-download it when he puts it back up.

Welp I'm looking at the 2000 FSM. It should have Toyota Type-IV fluid. Inspect every 24 months / 30,000miles. Oddly the differential should be inspected every 12 months / 15,000m.

A bit late in posting (I know), but PhatG20.net hosting has become perminant! Huge thanks to McElligott for the *major* server pimpage for the last few months. Thousands of downloads took place from several major community forums. If you have any problem opening the zip file, it is not a problem with the zip file!!! Your software is stone aged. Upgrade @ winzip.com first, re-download second, ask for help third. I've no idea how they're winding up online, so don't ask. Santa will update them as he goes. Apparently Santa has included every document linked to the cars in subject. FSM's, TSB's, Training Manuals, Misc. Technical data, etc... Santarme's fingers hurt like hell... *The body finishing & collision repair manuals are not included. *If you have a '95, or '96 ES. The manuals are redundant. See the '94 Camry manual. *I suggest the Training Manuals (mis-labeled as '93 ES Training Manuals) regardless of what you have. If you do not have a complete manual, refer to the '93, or '97 manual. Which ever is more suitable. While downloading PLEASE Click on the file details, and at the bottom click | Rate this Resource] and rate it! Download HERE For 94-96 owners use the 1994 Camry Repair Manual. Lastly. If anyone ever wants to donate $10... You know... Maybe ask santa to fill in the gaps + missing data.

Get in touch with Lexus & Toyota Corp offices. You're most likely *BLEEP*ed tho... They're under 0 obligation to fix it. Maybe time for us to troubleshoot it. ;)

You can also get 1 free owners manual a month by registering the car & asking for one @ Lexus.com. Took me between 1 & 2 months to get one.

My dad had an MGA & an MGB ages ago. Apparantly the cooling systems sucked, as they both blew up, along with many others.

I came from a '99 Protege ES. I miss my Mazda too.

I'm with him. Dealer/mechanic injector cleaning services are a huge rip-off. 90% of the time they do it, that's not the problem anyway.

It's not bad as long as you have enough room to grip it. Just give a steady upwards pull. Penitrating oil helps. I forget which Toyota v6 it is, but one of them also has a Jesus clip on it. That one's a pain.

Welcome to the freak show LoL!

Take it off & clean it, the actuator, the electronic harness for it & make sure the vacuum lines are OK.

I love my PC 7424. I use it for sanding woodwork & polishing the car all the time. I almost always use it one handed like a palm sander. Depending on how much you're doing, it can get pretty heavy after awhile as they are really meant for 2 hand use. I use mine once every 2-3 months to DACP, VM, 2x CM (Or 2x of PS21 by hand.) They're good when you're looking to do a lot of work & they're really good if you buy a half dozen quality microfiber bonnets to buff with. If you've got a lot to do, that's when they really save time - exponentially if you have a hard time getting some types of wax/glaze/polish off. Mine weighs exactly 5lbs 5oz including the cord. I have the 6" couterweight & hook & loop on it for 6" pads & had a light foam pad on it. It get's pretty heavy after an hour or two. Grab an OXO car brush. You'll be able to wash it in 1/4 the time. Takes me about 5 min to wash & dry the Lexus. (They make a good small wheel brush too.) It might be a better fit to grab a random orpital palm sander that is both varriable speed & hook & loop (velcro) that takes 5", or 6" pads. best I can say is go to lowes, or someplace & hold a few, then image holding it for a good half hour-hour.

They all have a normal idle of 650rpm for an M/T, 750rpm for an A/T +/- 100rpm. They don't crank well if the starter can't achive 400rpm. Only good way to find out about sludge is to tear the engine apart. The valve covers come off & drop the oil pan. There could still be some inside the heads, or in the block you can't see, but generally sludge happens in the valve covers first. There is a lot of heat & not a lot of oil flow. What is in the valve covers is allowed to pretty much go where it wants to before it drains back out. Or you can flush the crankcase out with however you like to do it & see what comes out. Seafoam, Marvel Mystery Oil, Kerosene/Diesel fuel have all been popular methods for a very long time. Auto-RX has become exceedingly popular... Tho it's expencive, takes f'ing forever to work & IMHO doesn't deserve the massive amount of praise it get's. I've been on a kersoene being for awhile on my R/C engines & just finished it on this car. Add a quart to the oil, let the engine idle 10 min, then drain the oil out. Pour another however much through it so it collects all the sediment out of the pan & drains out (or just drop the pan). Re-fill like normal.

The basic theory is that they pump fluid at too high of a pressure, into parts that were not designed to handle it. While most transmission pumps on there own can exceed 200psi under certian conditions. Most of us believe in just letting the trans mission flush itself. Take the cooler lines off. The sending line goes into a container to hold old fluid, the return line goes into fresh fluid. (Either put all your new fluid in one big container, or buy some hose & T's so you can drop your line in all of them at the same time.) Crank the engine & let it turn over, but turn it off before you run out of fluid! That'll change the vast majority of it back out. Especially if you drop the pan before hand. Afterwards I say do that every other year, or drain & fill the transmission when you do the oil.

Ya. You can find generic aftermarket ones on ebay for like 25-30 shipped, or rebuild them with 3m Polyurathane & have a stiffer mount for like 10-15. Like tck said, it's been covered alot. Search.

It's like he ejaculated a VB update!

OOOOOOooooo The rare AVS option. I've never heard what happens when you put non-adjustable struts on there. You can put whatever you want on it. I'm sure that if it has a problem you could always go back and swap whatever random electronics over, or simply outright fool it.

It's worse on the old model engines that had EGR & idle valves, better without the EGR & better on the new ones where it's got just an electronic throttle. - But the same thing is still going to happen. The two ACIS valves in them now. It's all crazy in there. Eh I mean it's a stupid thing to argue about, but it's always been a problem on not just these engines, but about every engine. It's just one of those things that tends to happen. (In his case it's just moving the rubber pipe off the throttlebodies & seeing what's going on. Maybe that's the problem, maybe not - but only good comes from cleaning that stuff. :) ) Good deal on the new warranty. I didn't know the upped it either. Handy info! :D

Minus the carbon, look at how much oil recycles through the front breather & PCV valve. This was a '99 1mz-fe, pics taking in '03, or '04. All the oil from the front breather get's sucked straight through the IAC/ISC valve on all the engines anytime the valve is in operation. Heating bakes said oil everywhere where it stands.

It wouldn't be the light, or wiring for it. They flash @ regular intervals. If it were the wiring it would just come on & off randomly. Most likely either a fluke thing - like a sensor getting splashed with water & shorting out until dry, or there's a problem starting to brew.

Clean the IAC valve first & check for vacuum leaks. Then get around to checking your plugs/wires/coils & the fuel system.

It's not gonna matter. Fluid is fed to the ABS solenoid which re-distributes it. Do it whatever order you want to.

Just telling you what people run & why/what happens when you run it. It's low now, that's all you need to know. Inflate them back up.

I wouldn't drive far on 25psi. Easy to hydroplane. Aint gonna kill you just driving around on a sunny day - most of us use 20- 25psi for traction racing, but that's not for driving. 32psi is the Toyota/Lexus spec. 38psi is the Toyota-Europe spec for cars that stay on the highway for long periods of time, or 90mph+. Most Camry/ES/Solara/Avalon people I know run 38psi year round for 92-01. Keeps the front tires from bulging & looking sad as they age, better gas mileage & stability. Wear continues to be even.

The swinging portion of the caliper moves in & out to adjust for pad wear as they age. Just pull the whole piston assembly outward to get it to fit. Also, did you contract the piston with a c-clamp? Make sure you don't shove fluid out of the brake res while doing so. Most of the time, if you start with a res above minimum, you'l need to take some out. The parking light is recessed into the side. You may have to take the headlight back out slightly to expose the wire enough so you can see where it is. If you want the things to come on with the parking lights (What most people do unless they're putting in a seperate switch) wire them all to the parking lights.