Toysrme

What's it leaking out over a longer interval? It could just be reading low for some reasons. Take a flashlight to the back of the rear head & block & check.

No it should not. There is no reason to take the upper intake manifold off just to change the timing belt & water pump. Chuck what mileage you at? You should have a timing belt & water pump changed every 90,000m.

You are positive the battery is OK? 40amp AM1 40amp MAIN No.1 30amp AM2 Starter Relay 10amp Starter Gotta have that to turn the starter over.

Wastegates are set by spring tension, unless they are electronic boost control (EBC). Always size your spring low - as a manual boost controller (MBC) can bring pressure back up to whatever. Where people with cheap MBC's get in trouble is setting the psi to high, or running more power (exhaust) than the wastegate can divert both lead to more boost than you want. Blow-off-valves work in much the same way. Positioned upstream of the throttle plate & downstream of your metering device & turbo. When the throttle closes, the airflow backs up, builds & returns to the turbo. Quickly slowing it down (Sending it into surge). While it has always been argued if it affects logevity, yes it does. It gives premature wear on perfect bearings. Then you wind up with a turbo that "flutters" because the bearings are worn & eventually the turbine, or compressor wheel smacks the housing, which leads to bearing failure & a turbo that doesn't work. Building a new y-pipe from the old one would be the best bet. Especially how *BLEEP*ty the OEM ones are. You wouldn't want to power a turbo through it. Take the OEM one down & cut the flanges & large flexpipe off. They're a perfect fit for 2" pipes coming off the manifold. Then you can merge them to whatever you want. The main problem is the Automatic Transmission. The pan & housing for it are monstrously large. 2" up pipes & 2" down pipes are the max that will fit around it, & even then not in many places. Spend time figuring out what you're going to do about the transmission. You'll burn every clutch in it up quickly after 320bhp. Even with an aux cooler & valve body upgrade it won't survive more than a few months @ 280whp & will last a singe pull between 300-320whp. Grab a water cooled turbo if at all possible. Grab some 5/16" line to run coolant from the egr cooler/throttlebody warmer & divert it to the turbo. Oil, fluids & charge pipe are normally easily delt with after the exhaust & turbo are in the car.

Ya Jason is the man. Did you let the car sit a month? Then battery went dead. Batter cables on? Take terminals off & check for corrosion Check main fueses & relay for power if & when battery is tested positive.

Take the intake pipe off soo you can see the greater transmission area & take a flashlight to the sides & back of the engine from above & below.

Without arguing about it, if they flushed the system correctly (key word), you wouldn't have brown coolant. (Assuming it's not oil & that it's just your basic rust from not flushing the coolant often enough). Go buy at least a bottle of cooling system cleaner, dump the coolant out of the engine & radiator & flush it with your garden hose & cleaner. When an iron block starts to rust - you'll about never see 100% clean & clear water come out less you bust out some rust kutter & a high pressure syste, or bathe it. Just get it to be substantially cleaner than when you started & call it a day. Takes 8.9 quarts of coolant to fill the entire system. Reference for mixing your coolant, as always, thanks to mkiv. % Coolant Freeze Boil 20% 16 253 33% 0 256 50% -34 265 70% -90 277 If it turns brown leakdown test on the cooling system & cylinder test the heads. Be sure to get the #'s from the tests. An FYI, when the inhibitor packages break down in a coolant from not changing them often enough, the old iron blocks simply start rusting in the passages. The only thing you can do is flush them with a bottle of cleaner until the water from the block looks "noticeably clean". Once any of them start rusting, you can flush for hours & still turn up an orange hue here & there. Just make sure you flush it every other year. (Since you blew a radiator, it was be extremely wise for a new thermostat & new coolant pressure caps. Water outlet cap on the intake manifold is 12.1-16.4psi, radiator should have a new cap - if not it's 13.5-17.8psi - thermostat is 190*F, fully open @ 212*F.)

Timing belt & water pump need to be every 90,000m / 72months. Spark plugs every 60,000m / 48months. 1998 Camry 90,000 Miles - 72 Months Replace engine oil and oil filter Replace engine air filter Replace engine coolant Rotate tires Inspect the following: Ball joints and dust covers Brake linings/drums and brake pads/discs Drive belts Drive shaft boots (re-torque flange bolts) Exhaust pipes and mountings Fuel lines and connections, fuel tank band and fuel tank vapor vent system hoses Fuel tank cap gasket Rack and pinion assy. for leakage Steering linkages Transmission and differential oil Additional Maintenance Items for Special Operating Conditions: Driving on Rough, Muddy or Snow-Melted Roads Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body Extensive Idling or Low-Speed Driving for Long Distances Replace timing belt Towing a Trailer or Using a Camper or Car-Top Carrier Inspect nuts and bolts on chassis and body Replace transmission and differential oil Go download the '94 Camry repair manual & deal with the changes, register the car on Lexus.com & get their schedule - which happens to be the same as the toyota literature http://www.toyotaownersonline.com/parts-service/diy.php, or download the full repair manual for techinfo.toyota.com for $10 a day. I've never found it hard to reach the rear o2 sensor. If you're really concerned about it practicing on the front one is bound to be the best advice you'll hear on the subject LoL! (Be sure to do it when the car is cool. Exhaust manifolds are something you don't want to bump into many times LoL!)

They most likely didn't flush anything when they changed the radiator. They just drained the radiator, leaving all the old crap in the engine. (The drain is on the backside on the bottom. It has a little hose on it to direct it away from the frame & exhaust, awwwww) LoL! That, or you have oil & coolant mixing somewhere. On that note, just because you asked for a compression test doesn't really mean much, *always* get the results from it. 178psig normal, 142psig minimum, no more than 14 psig difference on the same bank. If the rings are in good shape & the head gasket is new, PSIG oughta be in the mid-180's in all honesty. Doing a compression test is as easy as changing spark plugs if you're up to it. Just get the engine nice & warmed up before you start so everything that should be sealing has a chance to either seal, or unseal, My vote: 1) flush the cooling system 2) check the oil 3) have someone else do a compression, or leak-down test that will give you numbers AFA noises. It's pretty normal to hear exhaust parts crackle & pop from cooling down. It's just the metal, nuts, studs & bolts contracting after it's expanded so much. Even more so with stock parts as the y-pipe has the sheet metal cover with asbestos fiber all in it to insulate it. It stays real hot in there.

You got it. Bank 1 = right hand bank = odd bank = rear bank You can do it with a wrench, or an o2 sensor socket, deep well socket, whatever comes easyest. Anti-sieze on the threads will help the next person that has to change them. AFA splice in I always do it the right way (soldier + heat shrink), but there's nothing against crimping / twisting & using electrical tape if you do a good job (blah). If you get the plug n play, obviously, that doesn't apply.

I highly doubt it in North America as it's a hugely popular vehicle. The ES/Windom isn't sold much world-wide & where it is, it doesn't sell well in most places. They should have dropped it from a lot pf places years ago. Again, doubtful for North America, GoM islands, Pacific islands will most likely keep selling them.

http://www.napaonline.com/cgi-bin/ncommerc...ring=brake+hose http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?U...KE+HOSE+-+FRONT http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?U...AKE+DRUM+-+REAR http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.as...c+Brake&ptset=A There's the big 3. That covers what? Around 10 retail autopart chain stores in the US.

What the ? Monarch you realize you bleed a caliper by putting a hose on the bleeding nipple on the back side of the caliper right? You're not installing some critical part... You're fitting a hose on a nipple so air doesn't back-flow into the line when you let pressure off it. Dude why is your nose in my backside all of a sudden? LoL!

Bleeding the brakes is easy. Nothing to be afraid of. You take a small dia (around 1/4, or 3-5mm I forget what I use) & drop it down into a jar of brake fluid. Take the cap off the res & pump the brake slowly & steadily. Keep a check on the res so you don't run it dry. You can do this with one person & goes very, very fast if you're still mobile enough to swing ya head, or adjust mirrors so you can see your jar. You'll loose brake fluid taking the hose off, but it's not going to all dump out. It's like dropping a staw into a glass, putting your finger on top of the straw & pulling it out. Air tight = leak tight. Capillary action & surface tension.

rosecityrain if the fuses is OK & electricity is getting to the fuse itself, then there's a break in the wiring. It's fairly common on most of the late model camry platforms (Through gen4) (Not just es/windoms) to burn the wiring for the cig lighter in half. Toyota didn't design it to handle much more load than the cig lighter & many people inadvertantly use it to power something that draws too much -> burning the fuse & sometimes melting the wiring before the fuse can blow. Or there could be damage on the backside of the lighter socket where the wiring goes, who knows.

When you say hose do you mean the actual reubber absed hose, or the metal hard lines? If it's just the hose go buy some length of rubber brake hose at whatever parts store you can find it at. Just make sure if you don't get the little clamps that you save the old ones.

^ what he said. There is a lot of infomration on a lot of lexus / Toyota forums about this. The only difference in an ES/Windom VS Camry/Toyota masts are that the ES/Windom ones are a 2 position tuned length. Not that anyone cares hah! One of these days I'm going to get around to doing the ever popular S2000 conversion.

You can jack it up from most parts of the frame if you're careful. The engine & transmission sit between two frame crossmembers. Center your jack on the front one & go to town. I still prefer just jacking by doing it on the frame wheel by wheel. The frame tends to bend as you jack it. It just can't support half the car from one point. Doesn't do real well at all if you jack it up more thana few times. <sigh> It's just the penalty for having lightweight construction. Normally when the pan won't come off you've skipped some things. On the VZ family it's a once piece oil pan that has a huge cover for the flywheel/flexplate that you have to take off. I forget how the MZ's are setup, but off-hand it's a 2 pieces oil pan & I'm pretty sure the upper one bolts to the transmission. Don't hit it with a mallet! I did the same thing my first time. Silicon they seal it with just won't let go so stop playing against it. Take a razor blade & cut the stuff out like you normally would do, then pry it up with a screwdriver. You should download the 1994 Camry factory service manual. I'm sure it has directions. You can also download any avalible Toyota FSM off techinfo.toyota.com for $10.

Yea. If a fuse isn't cut in half, it's still working & there's no point in changing it! Do '98's use the same combination of bulbs & leds earlier ones do? If so you can replace them, or have Lextech.org do it.

When I put my RSB on around 80-90,000 miles. The end links were rusted shut. The rubber was starting to show age, but not cracking. This in a '93 that lived in Florida & Alabama all it's life. The bushings were in good shape, but I swapped them to new ES units & greased them. Then greased thema gain after a few weeks. I would try greasing the bushings & such if it's a squeak, or a groan type sound. If they dry you get noise.& ya eventually the end links go bad.

If you want to remove it all the way, air hose + screws + electrical connector. The TB doesn't have to come off barring some special reason like stripped bolt/screws, or something silly.

Thanks! About everyonee on here would have told you the exact same thing. All I did was beat them to telling you! I think you'll be set for life when it comes to car problems now! (Or anything in generally really!) Just handle it exactly like you did & you're golden! Good luck with it! If it starts smoking more often remember to troubleshoot yourself (cause you're good at it) Then worry hubby with it. Don't forget that what worries you, worries hubby & what worries hubby get's a smacking!

Ya, sadly now-a-days it doesn't even matter if it's family for some people. Welp, the published specification is: Wheelbase, in. 103.1 Overall Length, in. 187.8 Overall Width, in. 70.0 Overall Height, in. 53.9 So if the road is a tick under 5'8" a side there ya go. I'll still take the measurements.

You're most likely SOL. :cries: It's extremely, eeeeeextremely rare for damage to be done on somebody's bumper, while being on a road, and the person in the rear position not be at fault. I really hope you can pull it out & not be at-fault! That price is as good as it gets AFAIK. Just grabbing good looking lights under $200 a pop is an accomplishment to me. Maybe somebody else can chime in, but I think $130 is a good deal from what I've always taken mental notes of! I always tell people to call/email TAPRecycling. They have a good reputation in the general Toyota community.

<_< First hand experience. There is no substitute. My experiences with the mechanical side of these cars equals, or exceeds most people here at some things. I'm sure I've also done more research on more topics than the vast majority. Doesn't make me a God, but there you go. This also happens to be my career. Calling in the fact that I am 22 is grossly irrelevant. It would be in the same league as someone saying, "Well yall are from California, so you that can't possibly know how a car works because California = hippies & hippies = PITA on mad shrooms! We all know PITA members on mad shrooms are non-productive.". Both are as completely ludicrous as they are down right invalid. Apparently illiteracy rules on this thread, or at least certain parties on it as there is already every bit of information here to put the puzzle together to begin with! Sadly, much of it is posted multiple times which makes this really sad. :( Do your own research. You're questioning what I said, find your own relevant information. You don't challenge someone, then ask them to validate your side of the argument. Is November backwards month where you live!? If it is I need to know - it sucks being the only kid in school that doesn't know it's backwards! At any rate you know exactly what you're going to find... I am right, and you are wrong. Why? Because has been a well documented mod / adjustment for thirty years, and it's really adjustment... (It just feels good for most of us to say "mod" because it's like we actually did something hahahahahahaha!) Google + big Toyota forums + Forum searches = a massively lopsided answer that you're not going to like. So far you've either fall into one of three dark holes, "I have not researched my own side of the argument because I am: incapable of using google+forum searches, lazy, or afraid to find out that I am wrong". See the main problem in this thread right now is that an un-named party, or parties, are arguing without having any relevant information on what they're arguing about... As we all know arguing without researching is akin to talking about something while not having the faintest idea about what you're talking about. IDK what the rest of yall call it, but down here it's either, "blowing smoke out your "butt". (Steve, note how "forum rules friendly"! No rule breakage in this post! LoL! :D :) ) Guys, look I rarely take offense to stuff & I haven't so far - to return the favor, address the fact that the side of this argument that I am not supporting (That means your side jragosta) - has done no research on what you're talking about. Like I've said umpteen times... (That means a gajillion + 1 in Alabama.) <Beware: Extreme Sarcasm Zone Ahead> This is well documented. <Nope> This is well documented. <Wait.> This is well documented. <Almost!¡!> This is well documented. <I got it!> Are we all on the same page again!? <Now Leaving Extreme Sarcasm Zone> Bawahahahahaha ahhhhhahaha I think the funniest part about this so far is that yall are acting like it takes praying to a taboo pagan god in a low budget sci-fi flick to move some large mountain. It's not hard, nor would it take long to find the information you *claim* to want - so find it. If you need help, ask me... I will help! Click this to AIM me. That's why my contact information is generally in every sig I make. Just don't confuse help with doing your job for you. See Steve? I'm being questioned on my core beliefs, ethics, and general knowledge; yet I'm peaceful & in a relatively great mood because I think this is so ridiculous that it's simply hilarious! Definitely no need for insults on this thread! ROTFLMAO! Everything is A-OK.