Toysrme

Do what both of them said. Take a good leather cleaner (Lexol, or a water @ woolite solution) to the junkyard & clean the leather. If the leather cleans up acceptably take it off the seat & put it on the new on. Leather doesn't take any appreciable damage from water, but if the foam stays damp for any amount of time it's going to become a big yellow moldy mess! Smells like !Removed! & bad for you.

I'm not sure if anyone knows the answer to any of those questions at the end of the day. Nobody's done it AFAIK. (Don't shot peen stock rods. Buy real manly rods from another engine, or custom made ones & have them machined to fit. It'll be way stronger.) Get something that will move the mass you want @ a pIIc that is reasonable. You really get into a personal opinion discussion more than anything else. In my opinion, when you're talking about making the same amount of horsepower across turbos that both can achive the goal. The one that does it at 10psi will kick the pants off the one that does it at 5psi. The reason is that the turbo @ 10psi is almost a given that it'll be smaller & more responsive. On the other hand, the 5psi turbo is almost always going to be more effecient & obviously has more head-room for the future. Like I said, it's nothing more than personal opinion. Unless you just go with something that is completely unsuited for what you're after there isn't much of a right / wrong answer. Some are just better answers on some conditions.

http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...bo_tech103.html

Yes. ;) howstuffworks.com Read how a torque convertor works then how an automatic transmission works.

Not installed.

I wouldn't know about twins on a 2vz-fe. I can tell you that it's almost infeaseible on every other engine. There is simply not enough clearance in the rear area to easily mount one. There are wires & hoses everywhere & there is little room to squeeze one in to begin with. I figure someone with a custom rear exhaust manifold shorter than the stock one & moving the outlet to the middle of the header, so the turbo fits as close to the passanger side as possible, would make the best way to twin turbo. (Not that you couldn't just find another place for it) You'll have to fab new manifolds. What do you need to know about turbos? There are many places that cover that. AFA picking things I've done some of that work previously. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=184692

Loaded question. As much as you're trusting the timing belt not to fail, you must also trust that the coolant has been changed with the passion of a religious zealot. The belts themselves? Nobody knows. Toyota doesn't. They can't make up their mind on the life of old belts. There are many reports of Lexus / Camry's on these types of engines used on the Camry platform that have gone 120,000 miles. A few at 150,000 miles, but that is severly stretching it. & When I say that, it's dangerous. The original spec was actually "Inspect belt @ 60,000 miles / 72 months & every 7,500 miles / 12 months afterwards. Replace as needed.". IMHO the various parts of the cooling system are 50x more prone to clog / errode than the belt is to snap. I suggest taking the upper timing belt cover off & checking it for cracks, bad teeth, & freying. Until you can get around to changing the belt & pump FLUSH the cooling system.

You've still got a vacuum leak. Check everything for vacuum leaks including the main air hose & IAC hoses. Everything... Even if that means taking every single vacuum line off one at a time (Except the big hose & IAC line) & pluging them one at a time to find it.

A guy did a JDM 3vz-fe swap & did a custom supercharger for it. It's an M45. He's selling it to go twin-turbo.

Well we'd all like to have a new ES & you're bound to have gotten a great deal on it with the impending new platform. Only you can say if you made the right choice. It doesn't really matter what anyone else things. It's impossible to put teflon on paint. Despite what anyone says, to bond teflon to a surface requires several hundred *F at some point. Give the paint a month, clean it several times with dish washing soap to strip any wax from the paint & put on one of the bras made out of clear plastic film. 3M makes one & another company makes a good one too (Sorry I forget the name).

The bushing is going to be the same size as the sway bars are. That's gonna be 16mm or 17mm depending on what it is. Take yours off & measure it.

Agreed. Should fall in between 300 & 500usd depending on if you're changing the pump (you should be), seals & the two accessory belts ($15-35 each depending on what kind you get). Lexus overchareges labor & grossly overcharges on both parts. Either find a Toyota dealer to do it, or go to an indy mechanic. This is one of those times where paying for Lexus has no point to me. It's a fairly quick job to do, so there's not much reason to give you a new Lexus to ride around in. (less they're just slow & want to run up labor charges)

You're right in that tming & shifting is unrelated to your issue. The moment the TCCU decides to shift a transmission, it retards engine timing to lower output & have less power going throguh the transmission during the shift (softer engagement & less wear) The timing returns to normal as soon as it's in gear. Putting new knock sensors in isn't a foolproof way of fixing the problem. You have to do something like swap to GM knock sensors.

1mz-fe's are notorious for overly sensative knock sensors. They give up 10-15 horsepower from running in limp mode when the knock sensors go crazy. If high octane gas doesn't 100% cure the problem, the only solution is to swap the knock sensors to something else. That project is a completely pain in the !Removed!. Here's what a '94 1mz-fe (A/T) dyno looks like that's suffereing from over sensative knock sensors. Note how the ECU is pulling timing & trying ot add it back in. Keep in mind this plot was also smoothed. There would be several times as many spikes all over the board if it were not. For compairison, this 1mz-fe is also suffering from over sensative knock sensors, but not nearly as bad. Dyno smoothing takes out any plot of it also. (But it's still about 5lb-ft / bhp low across the board) My vote is if 93 octane doesn't fix it, live with it. Even DIY it's going to be a semi-expencive & very, very crappy project to do.

Yaaaaaa, I'ma be busy for the next week re-turbo'ing, making headers & the like LoL!

In most states when a vehicle is declaired a total loss the insurance company takes the car. I digress, if you're parting it out, I wast all 4 camshafts.

Yes. The dealer is just draining the pan. Flush the transmission (Should cost more around $90). Or drain the pan & refill, drive around the block, park shift into all gears. If you're just doing a drain & fill, you need to do it THREE (or more) times to statistically change the majority of the fluid (i.e. more than half). 5 quarts of Super Tech Dexron III @ Walmart is $6. Go hog wild. Once the fluid is done, I suggest flushing it every other year, or draining the pan with every oil change (& still flush it every few years). If you're real smart, add an auxillary cooler after the stock one. $5 for some 5/16, or 3/8" fuel/oil hose + $10 for a used cooler.

Don't buy them. Cheap crap. Hawk HPS. Best pads ever.

No you can't swap any of your parts to anything else. Yes it's possible in theory to do a 2vz to 3vz-fe swap. You'll need all the electronics to do so & you may need front & rear engine mounts, maybe not. Noone has done it so far, but a few Camry owners want to. You can bore & stroke anything. Good luck. Custom stroking is gonna run about $2000 for the crank, rod & etc on a v6. The rumor from 1 engine bulder was that you could get 3.6L out of a 3vz-fe, but you wouldn't want to stroke more than 3.4-3.5L. If I had a 2vz-fe, I would turbo it & call it a day. It's just too easy of a process to argue with. If 200-220bhp off the stock system + turbo wasn't good enough, upgrade the stock fueling system (New injectors, or add them) & shoot for 250-300+.

We can go round-n-round in circles about how, why & if, but it doesn't change the fact that some engines may be sludged up & some may not & it may not have anything, to do with anything as to why. If you're worried, warm the car up. When it's had 10-15 min to cool & drain take your front head off. Take a flashlight & look down the oil passages. Then you know & then you can start flushing the engine oil by your preffered method to fix it.

A warranty is a warranty. It should be honored at any Lexus dealer & any Toyota dealer for that matter. Any shop that does work under warranty, recall, or anything of that nature is making money. The OEM is giving them reimbersement for labor & sending free replacement parts to them. They get paid the same if it's warranty work, or out of your pocket.

Heat shield sounds good. Check to see if one is warped, bent, or dented.

Everything inside the 2vz is smaller & not built as well. Still has the forged crank, but, the parts are close in style to 3s-fe/5s-fe construction. I'm pretty sure it could reach 300-350 with careful tuning. See my post on CL, or here about 2vz / 3vz turbo choices & math (or whatever) to help pick a turbo. There are a bunch of good turbos for the 2vz-fe as you're simply re-using the larger i4 turbos. The spool rate of it oughta be simply silly for the power gain. The piping for a 2vz-fe couldn't possibly be easier. Relocate your oil filter & sling a turbo off the front bank exhaust manifold. You could make 220 at the drop of a hat. Tho I would be weary of the stock fuel pump, you wouldn't really need to upgrade the stock fuel system for 210-220. Richen the AFM cog up a bit & I would buy another cold-start injector & a boost pressure switch. Have the BPS turn on at say 2psi - might as well splice it onto the stock CSI also. That'd be another 30-60bhp worth of fuel for spending $15. I wouldn't rely on it for fueling, but it'd be a great transition richening aid when going into boost & keep it safe from overboost & the like. You could keep that, upgrade the fuel pump, fuel pressure & add more injectors, or upgrade them for more power. A 2800lb gen2 camry / es250 would haul pretty good at 220. It'd beat the crap out of any of the 3.0L+'s down the 1/4 mile even with an M/T. You'd be in the mid 14s range 95mph+. Oughta be able to do 140. 250bhp would be low 14's, maybe cracking into 13.9. 300 would be crazy. Low-mid 13's. gen2 camrys make killer sleeper cars with 3s-gte swaps. The 2vz-fe would be even better at the stock power levels

On the rear one you can do it. The best shot is to jakc the car up & slide under it. With the huge back angle they tilt them at, you get an awsome unobstructed shot at the rear of the entire engine.

Less than an hour to do it (so round up), two if they mope around.