Toysrme

I've always figured equivilant models are about the same.

Eh, I just skimmed your repair list (i.e. I'm not adding it up), but If you've spent $6,000usd in repairs, I wuold say you've overpaid atleast $3,000. :( That's a hell of a lot of money for minor work done. (By minor - nothing on that list takes a loooooong time to do to run up labor charges.). There are websites that give car values. Like kbb & edmunds etc. Sell it private party in the paper (Always - you get so much more money than trade ins). $6,000-$6,500 sounds like a good starting price to me. I would expect it to fall down to a more normal 4500-5000 if every buyer get's online & checks values first, but you never know. A lot of epople are impulse buyers & will see it & snatch it. In our defense, you said it was flushed @ 60,000 miles, but we don't know the current mileage. Most places don't flush fluid regardless of what you tell them. They just drain all 3-4 quarts out of the pan & do no good. The fluid should be a bright red color. You 100% need to flush it. It doesn't matter if it was flushed last week. Even people that have no idea about cars don't describe "good" transmission fluid as "looking like oil". I still think you need to flush it. What's the worse thing that happens eh? You're out $10-15 of fluid, an hour, or two of time. What's that compaired to a $500 used transmission that's not always in local supply + labor charges to swap 'em? You seem like the kinda guy that'll buy a new transmision too. 100% Nothing wrong from that. But let's just say the transmission is fixed, or atleast becomes driveable for a couple hours work + tens of dollars of goodies. VS spending a few thousand at a lexus dealer VS spending a couple thousand at a toyota dealer. If you don't wanna get your hands a little drity, drive to whatever local INDY shops you have & just have them flush it. (It oughta take atleast 10 quarts to flush it) If your ATF is "oil looking" It's worth your time & money to flush it out before putting a new, used, or building that transmission.

Air-Flow Meter M!Removed! Air-Flow Manifold Air Pressure Karman Vortex We've got an AFM. All are ways of derriving how much airflow is entering the engine - so the ECU knows roughly how much fuel to squirt. No if you pull the fuse out you cut power to the ECU. At which point you no longer have fuel, or spark. Just pull the fuse out & put it back. Don't play with wires or a running car.

Code 25 means that you're running lean. Reset the ECU (Pull the EFI fuse for a second & put it back in) See if it reoccures. Either way I say check: vacuum leaks output & responce of both o2 sensors Coolant temp sensor AFM output (VS) IAT output Fuel pressure In that order. FYI You don't have a MAT, you have an IAT. (Intake Air Temperature) it's a little thing hanging at the front of the AFM housing measuring intake temp. That being said, I doubt it's the IAT. Most likely a vacuum leak, or o2 sensors. If you've got over 100,000 miles on the current 2 o2 sensors, ditch them. Generic splice in Bosch replacements only cost $30-35.

It's no big deal. I think his point was just that you should put it in the buy/sell sub-forum http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index.php?showforum=17

Ya. Just be sure you're using the OBD-II compatible DLC. (DLC3 behind the fuse box cover I do believe). The 1mz-fe's are the world's first compliant OBD-II engines, but oddly still had Toyota's OBD-I DLC1 & DLC2. Wierd, wild *BLEEP* man.

Smoother!? Never heard of anyone wanting an ES / Camry to ride more like a boat. They out "caddy" the best rides caddy has ever come up with. Monroe's top tier Caddy replacement's are under KYB's ES strut. I really doubt you'd find struts with less rebound that what's in there OEM. I think you're on a near impossible quest. :D Based on the fact that you've got a '92. I'd say you need replacement springs & struts. You can regard yours, or upgrade to the later ones. All suspension wear out, most tend to need replacing around 10 years I guess.

Synthetic oils kick !Removed!. They lubricate better, withstand more temperature & last longer. Increasing the life of parts needing lubrication & increasing power/economy to some point. Castrol's not my favorite. Not even close. That being said, the weight of the oil has more directly to do with any power/economy gain than the type of oil. Bobistheoilguy.com for such questions. Reset your ECU.

^ OO OOO! & It'll have leaking power steering, 14" stealies, a chrome grill, the 4wd will be completely shot, lowering maximum speed to a "blazing" 45mph, and finally. it'll have more money in headwork than the govenrment paid for developing the thing in the first place! ahhhhhhh Inside joke.

Well... With each passing year, semi-trucks are continually looking more like a !Removed!, while automobiles are continually looking more like a tipped over labia. Mark my words... In 20 years when !Removed! people can marry (in some states), you'll never see a !Removed! couple in a car - tho obviously - they'll be very popular with the !Removed! community. Trucks will be sold in two sizes, "Flaccid" & "!Removed!-Star"; while cars will be sold via traditional "luxury", "compact" and "full size".

Eh, it's not specifically hard to do - but changing head gaskets is relatively expensive. If you're blowing coolant out the exhaust it's most likely a head gasket. (If you're the luckyest person on Earth, there is the remote chance that a metal lower intake manifold gasket has failed & is dumping coolant in the manifold, but I can't state how inprobible this is. I don't think I've ever read it mentionioned anywhere.) Warm the engine up then quickly do a leak-down, or compression test while it's still warm & all the gaskets are sealing. That's the only way to be 100% sure before you dive into it. You can also crank the car without a radiator cap. Normally if there is a BHG that leaks coolant - coolant comes in the cylinder while exhaust goes out into the cooling passages. You'll see it bubbling out the radiator *sometimes*. Obviously coolant in oil is a no-brainer, but that requires blowing a head gasket at both a coolant & oil passage - which just doesn't happen every time, or warping it between coolant & oil passages. The oil will look like milk. If you want me to just go way out on a limb, farther than you've gotten thus far. If you've got a pre October '97 engine, it has traditional head gaskets revised to the highest spec Toyota ever made them at. (Preforated steel sheet with asbestos & gunky junk on it to seal). If it's post October '97 It'll have MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) head gaskets that are infeasible to "blow". (Considering they're proven over 850bhp on the 5vz-fe's.) But... If you overheated it there is still the possibility of warping the heads/block. That would normally happen if it head overheated & lifted a little bit. If you have blown head gaskets - replace them with Multi-Layer Steel head gaskets. Obviously, this has no bearing if it is another problem. So you are pre-warned. Without troubleshooting, we're jumping the gun. ;)

Ditto. How do you know the head gaskets are healthy? Have you done a leak-down, or compression test? Coolant (In vapor form) either boils out of the system, or get's in the cylinders via the head gaskets. (Cracked blocks/heads are pretty rare on Toyota's.)

I thought you just meant you downloaded them in .pdf format @ Techinfo.Toyota.com! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh! I'm allergic to scanning large documents! Thanks, that's real nice of you :) , but no thanks on the hard copy. :(

I'd love a copy to host if you feel like sending it to me.

Could be worse. They could always sell $250,000 supercars that burn $10-15,000 clutches out every 6 months regardless of how you drive it.

Nobody's owned up to having on yet. Noone will know until then.

Jack the front of the car up & secure it on jackstands. 1) Suck the old fluid out of the res so you don't make a total mess. 2) Pull one 10mm (big hose) off the powersteering res. Use a hose barb to connect this hose into a fresh quantity of ATF. (Best to just drop it in a big jug, not a single quart). 3) Pull the other big hose off & shove something in it to cap it. 4) The two open barbs on the res, connect hoses to them & run them to a bucket for oil fluid. Turn the steering wheel from one stop, and it will syphon new fluid from the fresh container & pump old fluid to the res -> where it drops to your old fluid bucket. It takes a few min & about a quart of fluid, but you won't suck air into the system. Quit turning when you're dropping pretty red fluid out the return line. Take the discharge lines off, put the big hoses back on, fill the res to the FULL mark & you're done. DO NOT do this while the car is running. A lot of people try to let the pump do it by itself & most of them wind up with lots of air in the system. It takes a lot of finesse to pull that move off.

Exactly. 4quarts of ATF is about $5. You can buy $20 worth of fluid & easily have enough to: Flush transmission Flush powersteering Change differential Cool beans!

Bump for bumpage! Ya could be like big lew. He's spent about 6 years on an 18 hour basis (Green Beret). It's killed his s*x life! bawahahahahahahahaha Looks to me like you're getting a perminant reprieval from the Fing cold! Just remember... While Brandon says you can run without an airfilter all you want - you can't do that in the desert. :D

Yes that's what happens when you don't flush the transmission fluid even remotely as much as it needs to be. Quit driving the car, if it moves at all - until the transmission fluid is flushed. If that means you can't do it yourself & you have to drive it somewhere, forget it. Tow it. Driving with extremely bad, and/or low fluid will burn clutch material in a few miles. Flush the fluid until it's pretty red & try again. If you didn't drive it much under the poor conditions it's in now - the transmission should be fine when the correct level of good fluid is in it. If you drove it into the ground - it's shot. It'll need to be rebuilt with new clutches. Flush flush flush flush flush. Good luck with it! ;)

Now my question. Does Toyota give the ES the i4 hybrid, or mate the new v6 to the hybrid drivetrain. 192bhp is nice, but let's holla at a 300bhp ES LoL!

Then no offince, but you need to keep reading. Your described problem has nothing to do with sludge, and everything to do with worn valve stem seals. (You'll find that out if you keep researching.) The same thing, Lexus overcharges for services so much it's a complete joke to most of us & comes up with the most expencive ways to do things. While used up/old oil will eat up rubber, valve stem seals are a wear item. it happens. Failing at 40,000 miles is uncommon, at your mileage it's not uncommon for them to have wear. If yours are leaking some, that's just it. One, or a couple have some wear on them. Regardless of any engine, they're all wear items & any style, on any engine. This is 100% normal & what you want to see. Toyota is still fixing any sludge related damage. 8 years, or unlimited mileage. 97-01's. Prove you've changed the oil in about the last year, blah blah blah. Might as well pull the PCV valve out like camlex said & change it. Cheap part, couple bucks, no biggie.

I agree, when I just had halogen low beams (SS, or old sylvania), I always drove with the fogs on. It's the only way to see anything. I found a big difference in the old OEM bulbs & just new generic cheap bulbs. Anything new is way better than anything old. Doesn't matter what it is!

Looks good to me! I'd rather have the new sonata (We build here in Alabama), or that SUV as opposed to it's domestic counterparts, or a loaded Hyundai VS the equivilant Japanese competition that's strippe dbare to loewr cost. They've come along way in 10 years. Kicking Kia's !Removed! that's for sure.

That's great LoL! Out alot to project huge swath of light! Even wierder, angle them both in a ton & make it look wierd!