flippu10

Just wanted give some update. I took the car to my local repair shop. He diagnosed a bad fuel injector. One of the things I thought of but did not have the tools to check it. Anyway, he replaced the injector and the plenum gasket and now all is well.

The car revs freely in idle as well as all gears. When first started and cold, it's on high idle and the misfire is not quite as noticeable. When the idle settles down, the misfire is more prominent. It's you're typical misfire symptoms - sputters and chugs with smell of unburned gas coming out of the exhaust. It holds the idle okay. When I rev it up, it revs okay but with the sputter. I checked the code and the check engine light continues to flash constantly, indicating no code. It's not detecting any fault - really weird.

I forgot to mention, I also changed the PCV. I also just changed my oil and filter about a month ago, Mobil 1. Is there a knock sensor on this model? I replaced a knock sensor on my dad's Maxima not too long ago that had the same symptom.

Hey Toys, I replaced the air intake hose plus the spark plug wires, spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor and the mass air flow meter. Still misfires as before. No change. I'm stumped. Any ideas, anyone, would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks Toys. Glad to see you're still around. What do you call that large rubber hose that connects the TB to the MAF anyway. I've been looking for the part but don't know what to look for. Is it "breather hose"? Does it come with the 2 smaller rubber side hoses too? Do you have an online part place you can recommend?

Hello Everyone, While driving home yesterday, car started to shake and stumbles during acceleration and during idel. It feels like it's misfiring. A couple weeks ago, I replace air filter and cleaned the throttle body. I also cleaned the large rubber hose that connects the MAF to the TB along with the smaller hoses. While cleaning them I noticed they were pretty worn and torn around the lip area where it goes over the TB. The smaller hose that connects to the outside bank of cylinders closest to the radiator was also torn a little bit. I taped both of them up. I did notice also that there's some oil that is coming out of the small hose from that cylinder bank. I'm not sure if that's normal. I cleaned it up before putting back. Car was running beautifully from that time till yesterday. I checked the car again this morning and still stumbles and misfires. I checked the OBD by connecting the TE1 and E1 from the data link connector under the dash. The CEL just continued to flash rapidly without a pause. I'm not sure what that means. I don't think it's spitting out codes. I would appreciate some help, especially reading the OBD code. Thanks in advance.

I forgot to ask, what's an AFM, for future reference. ←

Thanks, Toys. I'll check it out. The 2 O2 sensors are fairly new, definitely less than 50K miles. I'll reset the ECU and then do the check as you suggested. In resetting the ECU, do you take the fuse out and hold while the car is running?

Hello everyone, My CEL went on and I pulled a non OBD code of 25. According to the description of possible causes, Manifold Air Temperature (MAT) sensor is reporting abnormally high readings - defective MAT. Is the MAT the same as Mass Airflow Sensor. If not can someone point me to where I can find it. Thanks.

Does anybody know how to fix this problem. I did a search and did not find anyone with this problem. The desciption of the code based on the posting is "41 ....................... Air Mix Door Servomotor Circuit". SK has a lot of postings on the diagnostic procedure but I did not see any on how to fix. The hvac blows cold air all the time without regard to the temperature setting. At times, it will blow warm air all the time without regard to the temperature setting. Each time I turn the car off and back on, it seems to randomly do this (always cold air or always warm air). It's getting pretty cold in Chicago now and I'm afraid I will not have heat when it's really cold out. Can someone give some tips on where to start. Thanks in advance.

Thanks, Toys. I'll do that. As I was searching for posts before I posted this, I saw a post that has a pretty good description and pictures of how to clean it. I'll use that as reference.

I have noticed that the idle goes up over 1200 or so rpm momentarily and then comes back down in both Drive and Park position. Sometimes when it goes up, it kinda lurches the car forward, when in Drive. It's been occuring more requently and cycles up and downwith less time in between normal and high. It used to not occur as frequently or the time in between normal and high is not quite as close. Anybody have any experience in this. The car is tuned up regularly. I recently just replaced my PCV valve. This problem has alsways been there though, ever since I can remember. The car has 176K miles on it. Appreciate any insights.

Okay, I took the strut out to examine if I put it together right and not missed a part. Everything looks exactly how they should all fit together - strut, spring, mount. Put it back in, tightened all nuts and bolts. Still rattled a little bit. The center nut isn't moving up and down though. I suspected that I could not torque the 2 main bolts enough to keep it from moving and causing the rattle. From inside the car, the rattle sounds like it's coming from the center nut. I took it to the shop and have them torque the bolts down to spec (around 180 ft/lbs). They use an impact wrench with the right torque setting. I could not have generated this much torque using a breaker bar and working within the wheel well (no leverage). The result - all is well. The rattle is gone. Thanks for taking the time and responding. I appreciate your help.

SK, Thanks for the response. There was no bushing in the strut that I took out nor the new strut that I bought. From what I took out, there was only a strut, spring, 2 rubber isolator (top and bottom), boot and the mount. I reused the isolators and spring. I replaced everything else. I re-looked at the center nut again and it is on pretty tight. It moves just a slight bit up and down cause it's mounted on a rubber bushing inside the mount. I believe this is how it's supposed to work. While it's moving, it's also making some clicking noise, but only on some bumps. I realized that when I took the seats out, there is a piece of sound insulation (a foam type material) the size of a brick that fits directly over the center nut and the mount. I put them back on and they seem to completely eliminate the noise. I'll put the seat back and see if insulates the rest of the vibration and tire noise. I think that will do the trick. I'll let you know. Thanks for the response though.

Can someone give me some insights on this mystery. I recently replaced the rear struts on my 92es300 using a fairly detailed description of the process in one of the threads here, I believ e from SpeedRacer959. Everything went as okay, just as described. I tightened all the bolts as much as I can, especially the 2 main bolts that hold the strut to the axle. I also tightened the 3 nuts that hold the strut mount to the body from inside the car. The one nut that holds the strut to the mount, I also tightened when I put the strut, spring and mount together. I re-tightened it after the strut mount nuts were tightene. So everything is cool. But, when test driving the car, there are certain bumps that cause a rattle coming from the top (strut mount) that seems slight on small bumps but louder, slapping sound of metal to metal on bigger bumps. I rechecked all bolts and nuts again and everything remains real tight. I asked my wife to drive the car while I sit in the back (without the seat still) so I can try to identify the location of the rattle. It appears that the rattle is coming from the center nut that holds the strut to the strut mount. The nut itself is on it pretty tight but the entire strut is moving up and down while going over bumps. It looks like the strut mount itself has some kind of rubber inside that serves as a cushion and causing something inside the mount to hit metal to metal. Is this how the strut mount supposed to work or did I put it on wrong. I would hate to take it all apart again. Need some advice. Anyone had some experience on this. I would really appreciate some help. Thanks in advance.