Toysrme

If the oil is changed, it won't sludge period. I still don't believe in the sludging. Here's a thread hashing it out http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194378 All Lexus dealers suck, but Tom Williams is a running joke. Look... 1) Go buy you a gallon of kerosene. 2) Check oil level - add to full mark if not full 3) Measure 1 quart of kerosene out & pour it in the crankcase 4) Crank the engine & let it IDLE for 10min. DO NOT move the car 5) Shut it off 6) Drain the oil 7) Pour another quart of kerosene in the crankcase & let it drain out the plug 8) Close the drain 9) Ditch the filter 10) Replace the filter 11) Refill with whatever oil I like. That means drive to super wall-mart & buy a $18 jug of 5w-30 Mobil1 synthetic. If you want, you can buy several jugs of 5w-30 Supertech for hella cheap also & instead of doing it just once & putting the good mobil1 oil in, leave the dirty filter on the car (or replace it with some new cheap filter) & refill it with the cheap supertech. Drive around a little while. Then do the kerosene again exactly the same as before. Whenever you finish, put the good mobil1 oil in last. You can also pull the front valve cover off easily enough & see for yourself. But anyways... Ya any damage from engine sludge is covered by them if you can proven you've changed the oil anytime sanely.

Maybe he's talking about the EGR pipe under the upper itnake air chamber that routes coolant to the TB - cooling the EGR & warming the TB??? I feel stupid. Make sure before you let him replace something. Any problems with the car?

Kick !Removed!! Kill the cat!

Nnnnoooooo idea. Lexus/Toyota. Maybe email TAPRecycling.net They're Toyota/Lexus/Scion & normally have a boatlaod of ES's.

Mmmmmmm Downlaod the '93 ES 300 FSM I posted & check the body stuff for info. You can also try the '94 Camry FSM that floats around. Techinfo.Toyota.com if you have to. Pay your $10 & spend enternity downloading every single manual for your car. I'll give it a quick look tomorrow, but I don't know of any obvious answer off-hand other than my personal motto, "A Sawzall, Solves All". Welding is kewl. Best I remember, there are some 10mm bolts that hold part of it on. Maybe you'll get lucky & that's all that keeps it on, IDK.

All of the tacho's are driven by the IGF returns signals from the igniter. AFAIK - up until the later coil-on-plug 1mz-fe's - I've not looked at their wiring diagram so I won't comment on them - tho they will be the same thing. Regardless of which style system Toyota EFI you have, the ECU sends an IGT firing pulse to your igniter, which returns an IGF pulse to let the ECU know that ignition took place & that IGF signal also drives the tachos. I think SK was talking about that. Like. I guess if the IGF wire was shorting out, the ECU would get confused, which would cause mis-fires. Coil packs. Back in the day everything used one ignition coil. Now most engine's have gone to wasted spark ignition (for a v6 that's 3 coils) or coil on plug (6 coils). He wants you to check the coils.

Kewl. What dcfish said.

Naw man, I like reading monarch's posts. Besides, sometimes (I think) he's right & I have agreed with him from time to time.

Daaaaamn Josh. I'm glad you TOK!

Anybody got pics of them both? As bad as cluster needles are to burn out, I wouldn't swap one. I'd hit O.L.T. up on ClubLexus.com & have him replace your needles & backlights to whatever color you want. http://www.lextech.org/osCommerce/

I'm not reading that post. I know, I'm ignorant. Monarch I know YOU have had good luck with your vehicles, and maintenece schdule, but that doesn't discredit that thousands of others have not been able to share your experience, and that real world experiance has shown the stuff to be the cause of a lot of problem. BTW I like the new butterfly avatar. ;)

The resistance is generally to check the o2 heater circuits. There are several aspects of o2 sensors that need to be checked. The heater circuit, the actual output of the o2 sensor, the fluctuations of the o2 sensor (responce time), how long it takes to warm the sensor to operating temp. Probably another one, or two, but that's the big ones i can remember offhand.

http://us.lexusownersclub.com/forums/index...howtopic=26449# Have fun!

Toyota red doesn't last any longer than a traditional coolant. That's why Toyota has replaced so many damn radiators in the last 10 years. Toyota grossly over-estimated the life span it's red coolant would have in the real world. I don't trust the lifespan of TR any farther than I can throw a gallon in my bad hand LoL! Yes it's an I engine, no you shouldn't worry about it. If you are really worried about it, take the timing belt cover off (It's a few 10mm bolts & a lot of wiggling) & check it out. Turn it over a few times, or rotate the crankshaft by hand so you get to see the whole belt. Make sure it's not cracked, or freyed much & that it isn't "bent" or "bulging" anywhere. (For lack of better terms). It's more of a "Now that you're around 90,000 miles, start *thinking* about changing it sometime soon" type of deal. You can check here & on CL & especially on Toyota Nation. There are lots of people that go 110-120,000 miles on the stock timing belt & there are no negative comments on what shape the belts were in.

Goodyear tires are A#1. GOodyear owns market share in about every other major, or minor tire company, and has invested many times more money in R&D than the other major brands. Go to the tirerack.com & read some tire reviews. AFA performance tires, Goodyear's F1 DS-D3 just ate it up in a Car and Driver test of performance street tires. http://www.caranddriver.com/article.asp?se...&page_number=13 About anything will work, but you really need to stop going to the dealer, Jesus Christ, you could put rims on your car with tires for $962.00.

It's fine. The water pump & TB should be changed every 90,000 miles. Many people have gona 150,000m on the OEM timing belt for whatever dumb reason. Many people have also gone over 200,000m on the OEM water pump. If you can't vouche that the coolant hasn't been flushed every other year, ditch the water pump & check the fins. They most likely have started corroding away from the anti-freeze. Toyota is smart, they know most people won't do normal maintenece, so they just replace *BLEEP* that would fail from that anyways! :)

What's the problem with them looking like a Camry? They've never not looked like a Camry LoL!

1) Sway bar mounting bushings need to be lubricated, tightened, and/or replaced 2) Saw bar endlinks need to be tightened, or replaced 3) Suspension mounts, or links need to be tightened, greased (if applicable), or replaced That will solve knocking, or rattling from the car itself when you go over a bump 99% of the time. If you only hear it when you step on, or let off the gas 1) Replace/rebuild the dogbone mount 2) Replace the front engine mount 3) Check the transmission, and rear engine mounts No you do not need an alignment, unless you were out of alignment before hand. The suspension geometry itself has not changed.

2jz-ge? 250-750,000 miles. Depends on what shape you keep it in & what kind of preventative maintenece you use.

#1 You know how it goes, it's just like the Charger. Use some stabilizer in whatever is left. Change all the fluids now so ya don't forget about them when u go to drive it. If it get's really cold, might wanna think about not filling the washer tank up all the way. use the A/C & make sure it won't get all moldy. Cover it with a car cover, or like some sheets sown together. Up to your uncle if he wants to trickle charge, or cycle the battery. If it's more than a weak trickle they can boil the fluid out of the battery. :\ Like, if your radio doesn't have thieft dettereent & stuff, I'd think about unhooking the battery so there isn't a voltage drain on it. Worst comes to worse, ford ECU's are normally cheap! :D Yea, it's a good idea to get them off their feet it kills the tires. Just make sure you do it securly & across a wide area of contact so you don't bend a frame, or unibody while it sits there. Read some guides I guess. http://www.popularmechanics.com/automotive...at/1272486.html http://www.techguys.ca/howto/winter.html http://autorepair.about.com/od/carcare/a/storecar.htm http://www.78ta.com/jack.htm

LoL! Silly dealers. If you download the '93 FSM I posted, you'll see in one of the brochures that it not only has a slot for it, but they sell the filter seperately. Check this out. http://www.clublexus.com/forums/showthread...ht=cabin+filter You can see pics of where it goes here. Ya gotta pull the carpet back & take the big plastic "shield" thing off to get to the heatercore & where the filter sits. http://www.clublexus.com/gallery/showgalle.../1/ppuser/15054

Ya, the heads are probably warped - which keeps blowing the gaskets after awhile, or it has unresolved cooling issues - which keep overheating it, warping the heads, or stretching the block / head apart. There is 0 supply of north american used engines. The 3vz-fe was only here for 92-93 in the ES / Camry. The few you'll find are general trash. Engine's that have completely been destroyed from lack of maintenece. The good news is there are a bunch of lower mileage engines being imported from Japan & Australia b/c they were used there from 92-97.5 & 92-96. The only difference is the Japanese engine's don't have provisions for EGR, so NOX emessions will run high. No big deal... If you have emessions testing, simply swap your existing the North American rear exhaust manifold, EGR pipe, EGR cooler, and Upper Intake Air Chamber (With it's EGR valve & Vacuum modulator) onto the new engine. You can find JDM engine's online at various JDM engine importers. They'res always a half dozen on ebay. BE SURE you hook it up quickly & do a compression test. Most engine's sold like that nly have like 14 day warrentee's. Rebuilt engine's are extremely expencive. Actual new engine's from Toyota's parts division normally run over $2000. Generic rebuilt engine's run over $1500, and the simple fact is you can't find any because there is no demand for rebuild 3vz-fe's, and like we established first off - there is only a trickle of engine's to be rebuilt in the first place. AFA the engine you've got. Take the heads off, have them milled flat for like $50-100. Check the block (It's iron, generally nothing happens to them, just clean them up good & give them a little lapping). Victor's Nitroseal's are the best gasket you can buy for them right now. Nobody has Multi-Layer Steel, or copper gaskets readily avalible for the engine. You can get custom copper head gaskets cut out for $150-350. If you use copper gaskets, be sure they're coated, or you coat them with something so that the coolant passages seal well & tell your machinist you're going to be using copper gaskets. They'll put a different milling finish on them so they'll grab the copper gasket better. It's a good time for maintenece. Change the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator pressure cap & the fill pressure cap on the intake manifold along with the spakr plugs, distributor cap & rotor, drive belts & PCV valve. Flush the coolant, check that the radiator isn't clogged - causing repeated problems. Flush the powersteering, change the differential fluid. Flush the engine crankcase (Oil supply) to clear debris, sludge & nasty *BLEEP* out of it & change the oil & filter. Then drain the transmission fluid & drop the pan so you can see what condition the transmission is in. Then put that back together & flush the transmission fluid out.

He's not doing the water pump for that price. $400 would be a good price for an honest mechanic to include the water pump also. AFA as a real tune-up... Plugs, dacessory belts, oil & filter, flush the coolant, flush the transmission/clutch fluid, differential fluid, power steering fluid, brake fluid, air filter, PCV valve. Check the charcoal canister, hoses & lines, pipes & brackets, brakes, steering, suspension. That's what I can think of off-hand.

Aisin-Warner (Think Warner, IHI & Borg-Warner - Warner-ISHI) is Toyota's exclusive supplyer of transmissions. Toyota-Warner. Toyota has modern, AWD transmissions arleady, they don't need FHI to spupply designs. They simply don't sell them in North America beacuse nobody bought them in the first place. How many AWD Celica & Camry's where there here? Not that many. To me, it remains to be seen how many AWD IS & GS's they can sell without putting AWD in with some special car package with other things the masses would more readily want.

The AWD isn't a big deal. If they wanted to it wouldn't take them any time to revive the AWD drivetrain they've been using on JDM Sceptors/Vistas that was developed for the 3s-gte AWD celica & was an option in the US for the gen2 Camry. That has continued to be an option in Japan, even to the current generation. AFA building them in North America, I like Japanese better, but it wouldn't take them much to start churning out a few in Kentucky - that's the Camry plant. Remember they still sell the Windom pretty well in Japan too, and the full size Camry across Asia - which is built in Japan. All three are built at the Tsutsumi Plant. As long as there is a market for them, it would most likely be cheaper to keep all three together. The public in general wouldn't give a rat's !Removed!. The ES/Windom itself has never sold well outside of Japan, North America, and some of the island nations in the carribian & south east asia, and the middle east. I think those are the markets where they sell well, but I may be wrong.