Toysrme

chuckb wins the question of the month award! A very good question indeed.

Be glad this didn't happen 6 motnhs from now when you woulda been pimping an ES350.

Nice! Services are overpriced, but I know a ton of people would kill for Lexus maintenece, and jsut to have Toyota/Lexus actually accept real sludge damage LoL! I think you came out in the + bigtime. Especially in retrospect with others!

Tada! And for his next trick!!!! ;)

Using my 3vz-fe as an expample: I don't remember if it's the knock sensors the early 2vz-fe's are missing, or the o2 sensors. If it's the knock sensors - no you can't drill & tap a hole. Placement of the knock sensor must be where the stock place is. The best you can do if an early 2vz-fe is not equipped for knock sensor<s>, is to weld a bung/nut to the block approximately where it should go & hope it transfers enough vibration for the peizo to pick-up in the knock sensor. (It will, but I'm not gonna flat out say that will work 100%. But I'm 99% sure that would work OK) There is like, no way it would work if you mounted one off the side of the block, or like JB Welded a bung/nut on it. Remember that you're talking about an electronic device that the ECU can read easily over 100 times a second, and not insulating the sound vibrations are paramount to the knock sensors working. Most ECU's can interpolate down to 0.25 (or lower) of a degree of when ignition takes place over 720* of rotation. 720 / .25 = a resolution of 2880 whatevers Say you're at 3000rpm, 3000 / 60 = 50 revolutions a second. 50 RPM * 2880 "interpolations" = 144,000 measurements a SECOND the ECU is going "duuuuuh when's it gonna bang? Opp! There it went!" That's just at 3000rpm LoL! As can be seen, the everage ECU's knock sensor sensativeity can be phenominal when everything works right. Even on those old, slow chips they use. That's probably too high... But that's the basic idea anyways. Good luck with it! Army got anything to say about 87-89 2vz-fe's & knock sensors?

What ^ said! Hellloooooo eBay! LoL!

Yep, I've got 2 Bosch Universal ones in my car. The only difference is the pig-tail. As long as you are compairing the same kind of oxygen sensors, they're all the same thing. The tolerance of the output is so small, yet the operating conditions are huge... Unlike spark plug wires & spark plugs, it's not gonna hunt you to put a non OEM part in there. It's more like an air filter.... Anything will work better than what you have, as long as it's a new part! But ya, the only difference in the Denso universal & the Denso OEM part should be the fact that the Denso universal simply doesn't have a connector on it's pig-tail. I always preffer heat shrink & solder, but for that matter you can twist the wires together & wrap them in electrical tape, or crimp them. It doesn't have to be great, it just has to connect & not let lots of moisture in so you don't get black wire rot. (Copper corrosion) For that matter.... You could twist the wires together & shove them in a bottle of RTV, or something LoL! Really doesn't matter, just make a connection & keep moisture out.

Rear manifold. Universals means they bolt up, but you have to splice them in. What you do is cut the connector off your old o2 sensor & solder / crimp it on the new o2's wire.

Werd with AMF, it's opinions, everyone's is welcome & noone is ever right. Remember the old saying, "The worst advice, is free advice".

Ya didn't have to delete the whole post SK, just the pic. It was on topic, but thanks for the pm. btw the post above says his advice is "more incorrect and sometimes blatantly moronic advice", not mine LoL! Like I said. I disagree with monarch on a lot of stuff, but I try not to flame him... Normally we both simply disagree with each other & explain why we both think the other person is wrong; sometimes at length. Then again... We do agree sometimes... This thread should be locked, it's both bad taste & really !Removed!. It should be a private matter, not a public one. People shouldn't be brought to a public trial, or anyone made a marter.

Pull the EGR position sensor connector off & shove a 10ohm resistor in it. If you fail emessions testing, something is still broken.

I leave it out for a day or too just incase any strays get into it. Otherwise, I store it until I have a reason to go to the dump.It goes in the hasardous materials bin. Motor oil I store to go to the dump, and use some of it to burn leaves & debris in the yard three-four times a year. Most of it goes to the dump...

*Edited for SK* What I meant to convey, is that Lucas sucks. It makes oil foam up & that causes poor lubrication. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/images/lucas/lucas.htm Bob's hates it - I hate it.

All V engine's have one main lambda, or A/F sensor on each manifold. OBD-I V's only have a post cat o2 only if they are CA Emessions. AFAIK The 2vz-fe has one o2 sensor, and 87-89 has no knock sensors. They have no post cat o2 sensors, even for CA emessions. I may be wrong there. From Denso Aftermarket Online: Here are the results of your search for Oxygen Sensors for a 1997 LEXUS ES300. Sub Model Engine Position (L/R) Location (F/R) DENSO OE Style # DENSO Universal # -- V6/3 -- FRONT 234-4622 234-4209 -- V6/3 -- REAR 234-4137 234-4209 -- V6/3 LEFT FRONT 234-9007 -- -- V6/3 LEFT REAR 234-4137 234-4209 -- V6/3 RIGHT FRONT 234-9009 -- -- V6/3 RIGHT REAR 234-4137 234-4209 So for the Universal Denso sensor, It's the same thing. Rockauto has them for $41.73!!!

Niiiice what bulbs & ballast?

1) There are multiple ways to fix the problem. Search. 2) Take the door panels off & see what's wrong with the switches. Download the factory service manual for instructions on how to do so.

90,000 mile timingbelt & water pump changes. Change the accessory belts then. They normally should last a good 7-10 years. I.E. you'll want to change them with the timing belt.

Not really. Highway MPG has been rising since the beginning, but the combined mileage is still 20-25mpg depending on the condition of the engine & how you drive the car. It's mostly how you drive the car.

I use a stainless steel wire twisted around the bottom of a spring on my car. :) Werd Monarch. The only one I had that worked extremely well was actually a huuuuge magnet I use to have. I've never had a tiny plastic hide-a-key one work well. I tried one on the Protege & it died.

Anywhere metal. It's almost a ton and a half of metal, I'm very sure you can find a place! Try like, a frame rail, or the suspension mounting points. The unibody chassie is easy, but has very thick protetive paint on it, so a dinky $1 hide-a-key isn't gonna do it.

Looks good. I've been wondering what some of those 90,000-110,000mcd 10mm LED's would look like as dash back-lighting.

<cough> Santarme <cough> LoL!

Ya, MPG is almost always nothing more that somebody needing a good tune-up! :D o2's, plugs, might as well change the PCV valve. make sure the cat isn't plugged.

Damn. You only had 28 posts! Oh no! The Toyota Nation curse has moved 2 LOC, everybody run ahhhhh! LoL! All kidding aside, we're all glad you're OK.

Multi-meter would answer that in a split second. Either check resistance between terminals & ground, or plug it back up & check the voltage.