SKperformance

yah bbsal that was a 2 tone interior remembe the one where we all wondered about the front and back lights and the so called coach edition that no one could see

i think we all have different opinions not disagree which is such a strong word ok enough of the political crap you guys are all wrong ;) i am kidding again i also do not belive and have never seen a charging system cause a problem by disconnecting the battery it is used to support the system when the engine is off and to start it nothing else after the car is running it has no use for the battery except to charge it again the only concern to have about disconneting it is to make sure you do not hit the poistive side of the battery post as THAT might cause a problem just my opinion from what i have learned in college as an auto tech just like the jumping a car battery does not need the donor car to be running if it can start off that battery why shouldn't yours it goes against alot of what people have learned ,but information is no good if it is bad information so who is the first to respond

montreal got to love close to home

i hate jackasses that pretty much sums it up another point although does nothnig for you in Ontario it is a criminal matter not a highway traffic act if someone damages your car while on private property and leaves alot more serious than a hit and run on a street which already is bad enough

i agree might be related to an alternator

all these questions need to be asked to the goverment only they can give you specifics if the car you have is bone stock then i wouldn't bother trying to get it here as the shipping would be a few grand and the IS 300 is a nicer engine to have so it is worth selling it and buying another here as the cars are also cheaper but taxes and duties are up to the goverment and how long you are here and where in france

i wouldn't call it a drain but more of an insufficent out put of voltage at times and i have had the alt apart at a rebuid shop and everything checked out as well as the battery and lexus doing there checks as well

ahh you say not possible do you ehh.... ( trying to sound liek that guy from rockie and bullwinkle) from the engineering of a toyota alternator they all do not have total losses meaning tey run for a while as it is usually the cuicuitry inside that is opened up by heat added resistance unless the power steering pump leaks on them causing a good solid short i have not seen them go otherwise i have a problem with mine as do many other owners with lexus where it works fine when it wants to but the car can't be left parked for too long as the batery drains right out which also causes battery failure when the battery used to be good but because of a low level charge it caused it to be defective

hit hit the nail on the head ;)

it sounds weird but what i am saying is if the battery is not supplied with enough juice befoer the car is turned off then it car resart the car shortly but after a few hours that ok voltage has now become too low to start as it was never at its full potential

it might be a charging system problem with the alternator not always giving full power when shut off thus leaving the battery not at full charge also might eb a problem witht eh wires for the batt and starter being corroded or the battery ground to the body i changed my starter and body wires and the car works much better now my alternator is still a problem with heat where it will not give a full 14 volts when it is hot and at idle

actually it is real easy to change about 10 minutes total

one solution is to remove the thermostast which is a realhalf assed way to get around it but it seemed to work from a post i saw one thing to ask also is it happening when in stop and go city driving ? and also when it is overheating is the fan running at full speed at the same time?

not sure where you are tom but if in the states most local parts stores will give you a free code reading which helps them sell parts even if you don't buy any ;)

wow what the hell is all the fuss about chris relax what are you talking about jweiss.......? he is trying to sell shirts not lexus stuff not parts service nothing but shirts you guys watch too much conspiricy theory TV

there is a nylon inner mast which has teeth for the ant the motor turns to move it up or down it sounds like the mast broke and is ust spinning its wheel on the last tooth but it can't get it to full height do a seach for instructions on ant removal and replacement easy job to do

i can tell you didn't look over anything before asking questions

warped rotors are just that only change is at high speed the pedal feels floaty and will give less brakeing force no brake failure involved oem uses a better steel than others may which will resist warping and have a protective coating to prevent the rust on them bembro ones are nice i have the rotors but i don't think they make pads

here is another option since you have no oven chris but i doubt it matters if you might sell the car anyway The Hot Water Trick: Remove all loose pieces, such as metal clips, rubber nozzles, and screws, from the headlight housing. Fill a bucket or tub, large enough to completely submerge the headlight housing, with simmering hot water or 190-degree tap water. You can wrap the headlight housing in three garbage bags to keep them dry or you can submerge them in the water bare. Hold the headlight housing under water for 15-20 minutes. Remove and begin prying away at the seals with a flat, non-sharp straight edge such as a butter knife, ruler, or flat-head screwdriver. Work quick as the adhesive is constantly cooling and hardening. Work around the entire housing prying open a wedge between the seal. Submerge in a fresh new batch of simmering hot water for another 15-20 minutes. Remove and repeat the prying process. Repeat this process as many times as it takes before you can get a solid finger grip in-between the cover and backing pieces. At this point you want to pry open with as much brute force as you can. Once you find a weak point on the housing, exploit this weak point and continue working a larger wedge in it. Once the two pieces seperate even slightly, the whole headlight housing will snap open with ease. Press the stray strands of adhesive back into the seal groove and do not get this adhesive dirty.

http://auto.consumerguide.com/auto/used/re...cfm/id/2055.htm here is an interesting page For Acceleration, Antilock brakes, Ride/handling, Passenger and cargo room Against Road noise (ES 250), Automatic-transmission performance (ES 250), Fuel economy, Rear visibility Toyota made it into the "luxury leagues" in 1990 with the launch of its Lexus division. While the full-size LS 400 received much of the attention, the Lexus showroom also featured an entry-level model, the ES 250. It was a plusher version of the Toyota Camry. Additions to the interior included woodgrain trim and leather seating surfaces. Exterior styling was virtually identical, and so was the powertrain--a 2.5-liter V6 and a choice of either 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmissions. Four-wheel antilock disc brakes and a driver-side airbag came standard. Year-to-Year Changes 1991 Lexus ES 250/300: The junior Lexus returned virtually unchanged for its sophomore season. 1992 Lexus ES 250/300: Replacing the Lexus ES 250 as the company's lower-priced premium sedan is the ES 300. Still based on the Camry, the ES 300 rides on a 103.1-inch wheelbase and is five inches longer. It also comes equipped with a new 24-valve V6, with horsepower going from 156 to 185 and torque rising from 160 to 195 pound-feet. Both manual and automatic transmissions were offered. And despite its undeniable relationship to the Camry, the ES 300 has different suspension and tires, and weighs 200 pounds more. 1993 Lexus ES 250/300: Virtually unchanged for 1993, the only additions to the entry-level Lexus sedan are a fuel-cap tether and automatic-locking safety-belt retractors. 1994 Lexus ES 250/300: For '94 Lexus provides its ES 300 with a new passenger-side airbag, more convenience features, and a revised 3.0-liter engine that delivers an extra three horsepower--up to 188. With the new engine comes the elimination of the available 5-speed manual transmission. 1995 Lexus ES 250/300: Now the most popular model in the Lexus line, the 1995 ES 300 receives minor styling changes at both the front and rear. These include a new front air intake, standard fog lights, new brake/signal lights, and a shift in the position of the ES 300 badge from the below the taillight to the trunklid. 1996 Lexus ES 250/300: The only significant change for 1996 was the midyear introduction of an exclusive "Coach" edition, equipped with highly distinctive leather trim and a matching set of Coach luggage. Road Test Evaluation The ES 250 has a comfortable ride, soaking up bumps with little notice. It also tends to display good control and stability at high speed, while the standard antilock brakes provide strong, safe stops with good control. Tire whine and road noise are intrusive, however. The ES 250 also provides a bright, airy interior with tall windows, which give the driver excellent visibility, though it's hard to see the trunk while backing up. Leg room is generous both front and back, but head room is about average. More-distinctive styling and a 3.0-liter V6 gave the rebadged ES 300 both the extra size and power it needed. The 300 provides outstanding responsiveness and handling. The same smooth and quiet ride that has become a Lexus hallmark is quite evident in the ES 300. However, body roll is noticeable and the steering is on the light side. While not quite up to full European standards in the suspension or steering departments, the ride and handling should not be an issue with most buyers. Except in straight highway driving, we got under 20 mpg in an ES 300, which demands premium fuel. On the plus side, the ES 300 offers more passenger space than its compact external dimensions suggest. Leg room and head room are generous, even with the optional sunroof. Drivers enjoy a comfortably upright stance ahead of a tilt steering wheel and an attractive, well-arranged dashboard that mimics the panel design of the big LS 400. Some rear-seat space is sacrificed, however, for the sake of trunk room, which is more than adequate. Value for the Money Much more than a glorified Camry, the ES 250/300 helped Lexus maintain a solid image in the luxury car market. Particularly in ES 300 form, this Lexus feels and behaves like the costlier, more luxurious automobile that it is. Each vehicle report contains one rating table for a representative model. We rate in seven key areas: Performance, Fuel Economy, Ride Comfort, Interior Noise, Passenger Room, Cargo Capacity, and Insurance Costs. These ratings are given taking into account the "world" of vehicles, not a vehicle's standing in a particular class. In the ratings table, "1" is the lowest rating and "5" is the highest rating. Consumer Guide Road Test Ratings 1995 Lexus ES 300 Ratings Performance 4 Fuel Economy 2 Ride Quality 4 Quietness 5 Interior Room 4 Cargo Capacity 3 Insurance Costs 1 Total 23 Specifications Lexus ES 250/300 ES 250 4-door sedan Lexus ES 250/300 ES 300 4-door sedan Wheelbase, in. 102.4 103.1 Overall Length, in. 183.1 187.8 Overall Width, in. 66.9 70.0 Overall Height, in. 53.1 53.9 Curb Weight, lbs. 3164 3362 Cargo Volume, cu. ft. 13.1 14.3 Standard Payload, lbs. -- -- Fuel Capacity, gals. 15.9 18.5 Seating Capacity 5 5 Front Head Room, in. 37.8 37.8 Max. Front Leg Room, in. 42.9 43.5 Rear Head Room, in. 36.6 36.6 Min. Rear Leg Room, in. 32.3 33.1 Specifications Key: NA = not available; "--" = measurement does not exist. NHTSA Crash Test Results 1996 ES 300 4-door sedan Crash Test Driver 5 Crash Test Passenger 3 The National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA) tests a vehicle's crashworthiness in front- and side-impact collisions and rates its resistance to rollovers. Their test results suggest the chance of serious injury, while rollover resistance ratings are based on how top heavy the vehicle is and indicate the chance for rollover when the vehicle leaves the roadway. Front crash test numbers indicate: 5 = 10% or less; 4 = 10-20%; 3 = 20-35%; 2 = 35-45%; 1 = More than 45%. Side impact numbers indicate: 5 = 5% or less; 4 = 6-10%; 3 = 11-20%; 2 = 21-25%; 1 = More than 26%. Rollover resistance numbers indicate: 5 = Less than 10%; 4 = 10-20%; 3 = 20-30%; 2 = 30-40%; 1 = More than 40%. Powertrain Options and Availability The Lexus ES 250 made its 1990 debut with a 24-valve, DOHC, fuel-injected V6 engine. This was the optional powerplant for the Toyota Camry, and became the only engine offered in the ES 250. It delivered 156 horsepower at 5600 rpm and 160 pound-feet of torque at 4400 rpm. ES 250 buyers could choose from either a 5-speed manual or 4-speed automatic transmission with standard electronic shift controls. With all-new body styling for the ES 300 in 1992 came a new 24-valve, 3.0-liter DOHC V6 capable of delivering 185 horsepower at 5200 rpm and 195 pound-feet of torque at 4400 rpm, with available manual and automatic transmissions. For the 1994 model year, the cast-iron cylinder block is exchanged for an all-aluminum block, which improved both horsepower and torque ratings slightly, to 188 horsepower at 5200 rpm and 203 pound-feet of torque at 4400 rpm. The ES 300's previously standard 5-speed is dropped in favor of a single transmission--an electronic 4-speed automatic with available "normal" and "power" shift modes. Acceleration from the 1992-1996 models is strong and easy. The automatic matches well with the 3.0-liter V6, shifting smoothly and quietly. Engines Size liters/ cu. in. Horsepower Torque EPA city/hgwy Consumer Guide Observed dohc V6 2.5 / 153 156 160 5-speed manual: 19/26 4-speed automatic: 19/25 5-speed manual: 22.7 4-speed automatic: -- dohc V6 3.0 / 181 185 195 5-speed manual: 18/24 4-speed automatic: 18/23 5-speed manual: -- 4-speed automatic: 19.5 dohc V6 3.0 / 181 188 203 4-speed automatic: 18/24 4-speed automatic: 19.3 Notes: Engine Key: ohv = overhead valve; ohc = overhead camshaft; dohc = dual overhead camshaft; I = inline cylinders; V = cylinders in a V configuration; H = horizontally opposed cylinders; CVT = continuously variable (automatic) transmission; NA = not available; "--" = measurement does not exist. Trouble Spots lists the many commonly occurring problems for a particular vehicle. In some cases we also give possible manufacturer-suggested solutions. In many instances these trouble spots are Technical Service Bulletins posted by the manufacturer, however we have our own expert looking at additional vehicle problems. Trouble Spots Climate control: Because of an intermittent open condition in the temperature-sensor circuit, the ambient-temperature display shows -22 degrees (F) and the climate control misbehaves. The display will not change until the fuse for the air-conditioning control unit is removed briefly. (1990-95) Engine noise: If a thumping noise comes from the engine during low speeds, it might require a larger main bearing on the No. 1 journal of the crankshaft. (1991) Fuel gauge: If the fuel gauge is inaccurate, a revised gauge will be installed to stabilize the indicator needle. (1990-92) Transmission leak: Automatic-transmission fluid may leak from a casting-knock hole or a bolt hole on the A51E transmission. (1994) Vehicle noise: A new, self-lubricating stabilizer-bar bushing will be installed if the original rear bushings squeak. (ES 300) Water pump: The water-pump seals may leak. (1994-95 This table lists costs of likely repairs for comparison with other vehicles. The dollar amount includes the cost of the part(s) and labor (based on $50 per hour) for the typical repair without extras or add-ons. Like the pricing information, replacement costs can vary widely depending on region. Expect charges at a new-car dealership to be slightly higher. Average Replacement Cost A/C Compressor $905 Alternator $370 Automatic Transmission or Transaxle $1,410 Brakes $195 Clutch, Pressure Plate, Bearing $670 Constant Velocity Joints $700 Exhaust System $555 Radiator $640 Shocks and/or Struts $870 Timing Chain or Belt $190 NHTSA Recall History 1992: Secondary hood-latch mechanism could accumulate dust or debris that would keep the latch from engaging properly. 1994-96: Steering-wheel set nut may not have been sufficiently tightened; could result in vibration and looseness in steering wheel, and ultimately separation. Get a Free Trade-in Evaluation Zip Code Prices Good Average Poor 1990 ES 250 $2,700-3,400 $2,100-2,600 $700-800 1991 ES 250 $3,600-4,400 $2,900-3,500 $1,100-1,300 1992 ES 300 $6,000-6,800 $5,200-5,900 $2,500-2,900 1993 ES 300 $7,500-8,500 $6,800-7,700 $3,800-4,300 1994 ES 300 $8,800-9,800 $7,900-8,800 $4,500-5,000 1995 ES 300 $10,300-11,500 $9,300-10,400 $5,500-6,100 1996 ES 300 $11,800-13,000 $10,600-11,700 $6,600-7,300 This chart details a range of average prices in year-by-year listings for vehicles in three condition levels: Good-a clean low-mileage, solid-running vehicle that needs little or no repair. Average-a car with normal miles on the odometer, perhaps a few scrapes or dings; engine might need a minor repair or two, but runs acceptably well. Poor-might have potentially dangerous problems with the engine and/or body, or abnormally high mileage; definitely in need of mechanical attention. Valuations reflect wholesale prices paid by dealers at auction, and retail prices on used-car lots. Each range covers all trim levels and engine types for a vehicle with a typical amount of equipment-usually an automatic transmission, air conditioning, stereo, etc. Fully-loaded vehicles may cost more. Keep in mind that these are guidelines only. Actual selling prices vary-especially from region to region.

it is not an a/c issue as i rarely used mine atleast on my car but a good thought besides mine was also a short and quick lurch 1 second intervals maybe if i remember it right

i have never heard of the problem before sound like there is a problem with a bad ground in the cluster time for a new cluster

this site is not for personal retail if you feel the members would benifit from you goods them become a authorized vendor or else cease all further sales

sorry i said it wrong it increase gas usuage reducing milage

no permanent damage it just affects the rotors as tehy have heated up and warped no idea of cost at toyota either but any idiot can do brakes take it to midas or speedy use the oem rotors though