SKperformance

go to a stereo shop and they can cutsom make a new chassis ground for $15 at the most and put it in i changed mine as they were crap and breaking helped a good bit but the alternator has alot of problems mainly when the car is hot rather than cold which can be attributed to wires and still the alternator as the engine needs to be run for a bit to get real hot under there and create extra resistance

check the general mantainance for a guide on checknig the system

the main reason you i mentioned the rod and hanger is because there is a alarm mechansm that relocks the doors when foricably opened when armed so you need to be real quick or else it just relocks before you open a door

just wondernig onehot lex where you referring to me on trusting you i truly belive the modified stock box is the best way to go so far

all you really can do is try and trace it down in most large cities they have small companies that specialize in auto leaks but they charge by the hour and it can someimes take quite a few to find all the leaks and ureathane it back to gether after removing all the interior parts also

i don't think there is any way i can say this without sounding like a pompus !Removed! but i don't mean to at all :D if you are not sure where the stater is then you probably should get a second opinion on what is wrong it is right near the top of the engine you might have other problems like bad wiring and a battery suppling it

TROUBLE SHOOTING SELF-DIAGNOSTICS An Electronic Control Unit (ECU) within A/C-heater control panel monitors system circuits and stores trouble codes in memory if problems are detected. All codes, except Codes 22 and 23, are stored in memory. Malfunction is current if Code 22 or 23 is displayed. To retrieve stored codes, see RETRIEVING CODES. Codes are displayed at temperature display. See Fig. 2. RETRIEVING CODES 1) Simultaneously press and hold AUTO and recirculated air switches. See Fig. 2. Turn ignition on. All indicators will flash 4 times, at one-second intervals. Tone will sound when indicators flash. 2) A/C system will enter self-diagnostic mode. To end indicator check, press and release OFF switch. Read codes at temperature display. 3) If trouble code is displayed, proceed to appropriate trouble shooting procedure. See DIAGNOSTIC CODE IDENTIFICATION table. Codes are displayed in ascending order. To slow rate at which codes are displayed, press fresh air button to change display to step operation. Each time fresh air button is pressed, display changes by one step. 4) If tone sounds as code is displayed, problem currently exists. If tone does not sound as code is displayed, problem occurred in past and does not presently exist. Code Diagnosis 00 ................................................ Normal 11 (1) ............. In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor Circuit 12 (2) ................ Ambient Temperature Sensor Circuit 13 ................. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit 14 .................... Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit 21 (3) .............................. Solar Sensor Circuit 22 (4) .................... Compressor Lock Sensor Circuit 23 (4) ........................... Pressure Switch Circuit 31 .................. Air Mix Door Position Sensor Circuit 32 ................ Air Inlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 33 ............... Air Outlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 41 ....................... Air Mix Door Servomotor Circuit 42 ..................... Air Inlet Door Servomotor Circuit 43 .................... Air Outlet Door Servomotor Circuit (1) - If in-vehicle temperature is -4 F (-20 C) or less, Code 11 may set even though system is normal. (2) - If outside air temperature is -58 F (-50 C) or less, Code 12 may occur set though system is normal. (3) - If testing is done in a dark area, Code 21 may set even though system is normal. Shine a light at solar sensor and recheck codes. (4) - Malfunction is current. Code is not stored in memory. ACTUATOR CHECK 1) Perform step 1) of RETRIEVING CODES. When system enters self-diagnostic mode, press recirculated air button. Each mode door, motor, and relay will operate at one-second intervals. Press fresh air button to display codes one at a time, and perform step-by-step actuator check. 2) Check airflow and temperature by hand. Tone will sound each time display code changes. Each display code is associated with a system operating condition. See Fig. 3 or 4. Press OFF button to cancel actuator check mode.

this was originally posted by k9 crew TROUBLE SHOOTING SELF-DIAGNOSTICS An Electronic Control Unit (ECU) within A/C-heater control panel monitors system circuits and stores trouble codes in memory if problems are detected. All codes, except Codes 22 and 23, are stored in memory. Malfunction is current if Code 22 or 23 is displayed. To retrieve stored codes, see RETRIEVING CODES. Codes are displayed at temperature display. See Fig. 2. RETRIEVING CODES 1) Simultaneously press and hold AUTO and recirculated air switches. See Fig. 2. Turn ignition on. All indicators will flash 4 times, at one-second intervals. Tone will sound when indicators flash. 2) A/C system will enter self-diagnostic mode. To end indicator check, press and release OFF switch. Read codes at temperature display. 3) If trouble code is displayed, proceed to appropriate trouble shooting procedure. See DIAGNOSTIC CODE IDENTIFICATION table. Codes are displayed in ascending order. To slow rate at which codes are displayed, press fresh air button to change display to step operation. Each time fresh air button is pressed, display changes by one step. 4) If tone sounds as code is displayed, problem currently exists. If tone does not sound as code is displayed, problem occurred in past and does not presently exist. Code Diagnosis 00 ................................................ Normal 11 (1) ............. In-Vehicle Temperature Sensor Circuit 12 (2) ................ Ambient Temperature Sensor Circuit 13 ................. Evaporator Temperature Sensor Circuit 14 .................... Coolant Temperature Sensor Circuit 21 (3) .............................. Solar Sensor Circuit 22 (4) .................... Compressor Lock Sensor Circuit 23 (4) ........................... Pressure Switch Circuit 31 .................. Air Mix Door Position Sensor Circuit 32 ................ Air Inlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 33 ............... Air Outlet Door Position Sensor Circuit 41 ....................... Air Mix Door Servomotor Circuit 42 ..................... Air Inlet Door Servomotor Circuit 43 .................... Air Outlet Door Servomotor Circuit (1) - If in-vehicle temperature is -4 F (-20 C) or less, Code 11 may set even though system is normal. (2) - If outside air temperature is -58 F (-50 C) or less, Code 12 may occur set though system is normal. (3) - If testing is done in a dark area, Code 21 may set even though system is normal. Shine a light at solar sensor and recheck codes. (4) - Malfunction is current. Code is not stored in memory. ACTUATOR CHECK 1) Perform step 1) of RETRIEVING CODES. When system enters self-diagnostic mode, press recirculated air button. Each mode door, motor, and relay will operate at one-second intervals. Press fresh air button to display codes one at a time, and perform step-by-step actuator check. 2) Check airflow and temperature by hand. Tone will sound each time display code changes. Each display code is associated with a system operating condition. See Fig. 3 or 4. Press OFF button to cancel actuator check mode.

sorry you did mention the year have you checked to see if you a re still covered by lexus road side?

call lexus sevice and get the road service for about 50 a year and see how long you have to wait they will deliver you a new key as part of the package you didn't mention what year it is or use a coat hanger and pull the keys out the window or use the hanger to pull the handle back while using a rod to move the lock remember there are no pillars on the cars windows

more info needed does it happen when you first start driving when slowing down hard or softly and anything else also is it a sharp high pitched squeel or a grinding noise

i agree something loose battery is the first place to look mainly at the secondary connection with a little bolt facing up

the reason i say not to use the wd40 is it is not made to stick to the parts and binding parts will just squeege it away as it slides up and down causing the problem all over again the grease should stay in place any brand is good wal mart has it here but some have said they had a hard time finding it at some

never meant to sound annoyed as i am not just directing things into its right flow :D

delco make a really good filter also i am sure if you did a google search there might be some pics of filters opened up to show the filtering medai and the amount in each type but it has been years since i first saw them on the web

neveruse different brand tires it will change the dynamics of the car and especially under weather changes

changing the battery shouldn't but the system does have a back up power supply you could also disconnect the battery for about an hour which also might clear it

there is supposed to be a plastic bracket that holds the plate to the bumper you might want to chek state laws to see if you are alllowed to not have a front plate

piggy what is a temp car? try and fill in some more detail but it sounds like if it wont stop vibrating it might be a wheel off balance or a wheel nut getting loose or off

white grease it for a couple of days to work its way in

wheel spacers will not do anything they will only cause the rim to rub more a front wheel drive car will have a more negative offset about 43 mm for the es while a rea wheel drive will have about 35-40mm offset which means the rear wheel drive car has the rims center hub closer to the middle of the rim which pushes the outerlip further away from the car so adding a spacer is only makeing problems worse with no good effects if it was the other way around it would work better but you should still never use spacers they are best in a 5mm and nothing over as they flex on cornering and are for manily brake caliper clearence issues

it sounds like the switch for the transmission to sense it is in park is not being activated resulting in the locked up key

you say small bump but got a pic of the small bumps damage?

you do not need it but then again who needs a lexus when it is just a camry i prefer the toyta filters they are a very good media with the right amount of flow rate for the oil to return to the engine to stop oil starvation

hey nothgin wrng with that i used to race mine 2 by 2 to see which where slower i would have said to chaneg the master and everytign would have worked fine or clean it