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George_Jetson

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Everything posted by George_Jetson

  1. The parking brakes are a conventional drum brake inside the rear rotor. From reading your post, it sounds like you have mechanical experience and that you probably have worked on drum brakes before. The only difference with this parking brake, as opposed to a hydraulic activated drum brake, is the cable. Besides the normal things to look for, you also what to inspect the cable for corrosion, or damage to the cable housing, things that would prevent the shoes from retracting fully.
  2. It sounds like the problem is still there, the light should have gone off far before 80 miles. What code do you have?
  3. Both the speed sensor, and "D" drive sensor are other possibilities, but one thing that you must keep in mind is that some of these switches / sensors have more than one "section" IE such as the brake switch. One section will control the brake lights, and one is a input to the cruise control. Just because one section is working, does not indicate that the other is. Now checking the brake lights is a good idea, if the lights are on all the time it would indicate what you next step would be. If the lights are working correctly you may still have a problem with the switch. So with that in mind,
  4. Check the brake switch, if that is has loosened up and moved cruise control will not engage. Since the cc was designed to dis-engage when the brakes are pressed, it will generate no error codes.
  5. Looking closely at the crank gear, it looks like it may be off one tooth. Do not rely on the timming marks on the pulley. I would suggest counting the teeth on the crank gear, and placing a mark 180 deg opposite of the timming mark. Then hold a straight edge up to these two marks and see if they point to the alignment mark. It is very hard to see in the pictures, but it is possible that you are off a tooth
  6. Worn mounts are one thing to look at, how is your idle speed? Is it stable?
  7. Hi,, I actually deleted that doc. Let me know what year your car is, and your email. This site will not let me post doc (I think you have to have a paid membership to do that). Anyway, I can put that together again and email that to you.

  8. Sounds like you have a decent mounting bracket. You want AC volts because of the nature of the signal that is coming off the sensors. It looks like a high speed sine wave ( not the correct term, but the closest that I could think of). Ac volt meters are designed to read this type of voltage. DC is for a steady state voltage, and is fairly useless for this particular measurement.
  9. Is there any possiblity that you could get a borrow a oscilliscope? Since the knock sensor is pizo-electric, it will put out a signal even with no wire connected to it. I have not personnelly tried the external mount thing, (read it on another forum), but it sounded good to me. did you use a fairly heavy bracket to mount the sensors? Do you have any friends that drive a lexus/toyota of similar year? If so, (and you do not have a scope), try measuring the output with a DVM on the AC volt scale. See what a good sensor reads. I am rather tied up now, but if you can wait a few days I can measur
  10. Get the codes read, the check engine light does not have to be on to read stored codes. When the check engine light comes on, it will normally store the code, so even if the light goes off you should be able to extract codes.
  11. The pro flush is to clean out any garbage that the failed compressor may have left in there. Ideally you want to run the flush BEFORE you put ne new parts in, while the system is all apart. Also keep in mind that if there are any problems with the new compressor, IE it fails shortly after install, the shop will not warranty it. Also if you do your own work, do not forget to add the proper amount of oil to the compressor, and oil the orings before you install them.
  12. Try rotating the tires and see if it changes. It is possible that they made a mistake while balancing the tires, or you could have a bent rim.
  13. Are you loosing coolant? Or oil? If you are loosing water, the shop should be able to pressurize the system and determine where it is leaking from.
  14. I am at work right now, when I get back home in the morning I will try to remember to upload some information on the timing marks. Perhaps a different view will help you get it going again. Also once you had everything lined up, did you turn the engine over with a wrench on the crank pulley two complete revolutions and then re-checked the timing? If not, that is always a good idea, especially if you are working on a interference engine.
  15. sometimes if you set the timing to tdc you may have it set on exhaust stroke and not compression stroke, that is you could be 180 degrees out with your timing, can you put a timing light on it and try cranking the motor over when its set to tdc your your tappits on no 1 pot should be under no pressure on both exhaust and intake valves, that is the tappits should be loose' also double check your plug leads are correct, check each one properly with the correct firing order. cheers fergi Thanks for the reply fergi. It would be out 180 if the camshaft and the crankshaft were out 180. Bu
  16. Sounds like a blown headgasket. Do the tests that Fergi recomends, and also do a compression check. That will tell you for sure. Also, it is a very bad idea to run without a thermostat, it causes far too many problems. If there is any doubt about the thermostat, just replace it.
  17. On 92~93 the distributor is driven off the rear of bank 1 cam, so unless you removed the distributor you should not have to worry about it being 180 deg out. Since you have spark, and can smell gas I would suggest re-checking the timing marks. You may be off a couple teeth.
  18. Disconnecting the battery is a good idea to help prevent sparks. When you disconnect the fuel line, there will be some spray of fuel. I suggest waiting until the engine is cold and wear some safety glasses to keep the fuel out of your eyes. Otherwise there is not much to it.
  19. How many miles are on the spark plugs? Is it about time for a tuneup? If you can hear arcing, you should start looking around, pull the coils and see if you can find any signs of arcing.
  20. Take the car down to a local auto part store, chances are that there is a problem with the alternator.
  21. Check the stickeys at the top of this section to download a manual. Replacing a tranny, is not too hard, especially if you have replaced one before.
  22. Do not try to repair a plastic tank, at best it would only be a band-aid. I picked up a new aftermarket rad off ebay for ~$70. Fits fine and has worked fine for over a year. Don't forget to buy some transmission fluid when you do the change, you will lose a little when you disconnect the cooling lines.
  23. George, Very interesting and now much more clear. Thanks. So I have both sensor codes (P0325 & P0330) showing up, making me think wiring all the more. Jumpering not a fix in this case I'd think, but externally mounted knock sensor might. I haven't taken a look to see if the connection is intact at EC1, this may be the simple solution. But if it isn't (the solution) may chase the wiring back to the ECU. L Good, hopefully the other sensor will keep you going for a long time. I don't really understand why they placed two sensors on the engine, especially when they are so close t
  24. On the 98 lexus, there is a connector (EC1) for the knock sensors. It is located at the rear of bank 1 near cylinder #5. This provides a very easy asscess point to jumper the wires and do troubleshooting without having to remove the intake manifold.
  25. Both P0325 & P0330 are for the absence of a signal from the knock sensors. The knock sensors are a pizo electric crystal, that generate a voltage when mechanically stressed. IE, it picks up vibration, and generates a voltage according to the amount of vibration. Since knocking is just a stronger vibration, it will generate a larger voltage. So with this in mind, you can deduce that there should be a signal any time the engine is running. So these codes stand for the absence of a signal from one of the sensors. On some cars (such as some of the older chevy v8's), you could test the sensor
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