George_Jetson

I do not understand, what do you mean by "preload"? Do you mean a valve adj?

From all the symptoms, the next step would be a compression check. It sounds like you have a bad head gasket. If that is the case, I would also consider changing the timing belt and water pump if it is anywhere near time for the timing belt.

Yes. Inactive codes are stored for a set number of drive cycles (I do not remember how many), the codes will then clear automatically. It is a good idea to know what is stored in case the light comes on again.

The fuel filter would be a constant failure, you would gennerally start notice it starting under hard aceleration. The fuel pump couldnvery easiliy start off as a intermitent error. At 150k, it is a little early for the pump to fail, but not unheard of. I would still recommend getting the codes checked (do it real soon, or the error will clear).

My guess is that it is probably the original filter. If you are afraid to drive it, I would suggest checking the filter.

When it sputters before it dies it is very possible that the problem is fuel related, and would be one thing to keep in mind while troubleshooting. The first step is to read the codes. What type of mileage do you have on the car? and does it have the original fuel filter?

Have you checked the check the trans oil level? What is the color of the oil, and does it smell burnt? See if there are any stored codes that may indicate what the problem might be

There is a link at the top of this forum, marked Marry Christmass Factory service manuals. Get the one that is closest to your car, it will show you where the sensors are, and how to test them. You need to get the three sensors functioning, it is possible that the 4th sensor is not bad, but either way, that is the last one I would look at.

He suggested to skip the tensioner and pulleys (add $500) and do those at the 100k timeline. I do not follow the timeline. The last service was at 60k, I assume that you are talking about doing the timing belt at 90k, so why would he recommend going back in at 100k to change the tensioner and pulleys? Am I missing something? You should replace the tensioner at every belt change, along with the water pump, cam and crank seals. The pulleys are a good idea (because do you want to risk the bearings lasting for 200k?) Also I do not see why tensioner and pulleys would add $500, that is too high.

P0500 and P0720 are for the two speed sensors on the trany. One is measuring the input speed ( basically the engine rpm minus the slippage in the torque converter) and the other is the output speed sensor. The ecm compares both sensors to determine if the trans in operating properly. The output sensor is also the same one used for the speedometer, so I am surprised that you did not mention a issue with this. So I would start with checking the wiring and both of these sensors. P0135 is for O2 sensor, bank 1 sensor 1 ( the one next to the firewall ). The heater is probably open. You should measure the resistance of the heater, and replace if it is open. I would not look at the knock sensor until after you have the other three codes cleared. And I would not be looking for a trans problem until you have the 500 and 720 codes repaired. The ECM detects a input error, so you cannot expect it to output the correct commands until it receives the correct inputs. IE the shift points till be jacked up big time.

Many advanced DIY can change head gaskets, if you mechanic can do it is hard to say. How does the oil look on the dipstick? Does that look normal? And how many miles have you driven it since it started overheating? It may be time to look at a replacement engine, and not just new head gaskets.

Oil in the coolant, and overheating are two signs of a blown head gasket. Your mechanic should have asked more questions instead of assuming someone added oil to the coolant reservoir. I would suggest taking it to another mechanic, it is quite possible that you have a bad head gasket.

Have you noticed a change in the oil levels? Check the engine oil and power steering, see if there are any signs of contamination. There are no other symptoms, such as running hot, or missing?

That is a OBDII connector, so I would recommend taking it down to the local auto parts store and asking them to read the codes, and write them down so that we can give you more concise information. There are two "speed sensors" for the trans, The throttle position sensor is for the engine.

First do a full tuneup, replace the air and fuel filters and spark plugs, (make sure that you gap the plugs before installing). Then clean the IAC valve, this is what controls the idle speed and would be the first suspect if there were no codes present. Also check all hoses for splits and cracks, repair any that you find. I am not sure what you have read that indicates the flywheel would be the problem, but it would not be the place to start. Do a search of this site on the IAC valve, it has been discussed before.

There are a couple 10 mm nuts that hold the handle assembly to the door. Have you looked closely at the handle? When mine stopped working I found out that it was a plastic clip which secured the rod to the handle that had broken, and not the handle itself. I soldered a piece of copper tubing to hold a washer in place. It has been working as good as new.

I would hope not, but it is possible. I have never had the opportunity work on this code. I would find it very interesting to put a scope on both sensors at the same time.

Please do me a favor and keep me send me a update in the next couple months. Thanks

In order to tell exactly what is going on, you are going to need a scanner. First you need to check the upstream sensors, the exhaust system for leaks, and then the downstream sensor. Have the O2 sensors been replaced? They recommend replacing them around 80k, so they would be a strong possibility. A scanner is necessary to figure out exactly what is going on.

There is a link at the top of the thread that has factory manuals, if you do not find your exact year, just grab the closest one. If you do not have a lot of experience, it would be a good idea to have the manual with some diagrams.

The function of the dampner to to smooth out pressure pulses from the injectors and the fuel pump. Since most liquids cannot be compressed any reduction in volume of fuel will result in a drop in the pressure. It takes a finite amount of time for the fuel pump to deliever the fuel to the fuel rails (due to line restrictions such as fuel filter). The dampner is actually a accumullator, it has a sring loaded diaphram, and the fuel is stored on the opposite side of the diaphram. As the fuel is used in the rail, the dampner releases fuel to replace the used fuel. I assume that your's has a tear on the diaphram. I would assume that replacing it will solve the problem, rubber parts do have a tendency to dry and crack. Unless there are further problems (such as a issue with the pressure regulator), I would not be concerned.

It sounds like the diapham inside the unit has failed, I would strongly recommend replacing it. I could not find any diagrams to show the internal components, but for safety's sake, replace it.

You are welcome, glad I could help you in the past. I suspected that there was a stored code. I am not too surprised that the guy at oreilly was mistaken, a lot of people do not understand how it is suppose to work, and I feel that some of the basic scanners are a little misleading, and only add to the confussion. You are correct that P0420 is for the cat efficiency but the cat is not the only problem that could set the code. To explain the basic operation of the system, The upstream O2 sensors are used to controll the fuel to air mixture. The Ecm varies the mixture from rich, to lean, trying to keep the upstream sensors switching continuously. The downstream O2 sensors are located after the cat, and they also monitor the switching from rich to lean. The cat uses the excess O2 to complete combustion of the exhaust gases so as a result the downstream sensor will switch at a slower rate than the upstream. With this in mind, the you first need to check the upstream sensors, and the exhaust system for leaks, and next the downstream sensor. Have the O2 sensors been replaced? They recommend replacing them around 80k, so they would be the first suspect.

You are welcome, glad I could help you in the past. I suspected that there was a stored code. I am not too surprised that the guy at oreilly was mistaken, a lot of people do not understand how it is suppose to work, and I feel that some of the basic scanners are a little misleading, and only add to the confussion. You are correct that P0420 is for the cat efficiency but the cat is not the only problem that could set the code. To explain the basic operation of the system, The upstream O2 sensors are used to controll the fuel to air mixture. The Ecm varies the mixture from rich, to lean, trying to keep the upstream sensors switching continuously. The downstream O2 sensors are located after the cat, and they also monitor the switching from rich to lean. The cat uses the excess O2 to complete combustion of the exhaust gases so as a result the downstream sensor will switch at a slower rate than the upstream. With this in mind, the you first need to check the upstream sensors, and the exhaust system for leaks, and next the downstream sensor. Have the O2 sensors been replaced? They recommend replacing them around 80k, so they would be the first suspect.

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