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George_Jetson

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Everything posted by George_Jetson

  1. You are welcome, glad I could help you in the past. I suspected that there was a stored code. I am not too surprised that the guy at oreilly was mistaken, a lot of people do not understand how it is suppose to work, and I feel that some of the basic scanners are a little misleading, and only add to the confussion. You are correct that P0420 is for the cat efficiency but the cat is not the only problem that could set the code. To explain the basic operation of the system, The upstream O2 sensors are used to controll the fuel to air mixture. The Ecm varies the mixture from rich, to lean, trying to keep the upstream sensors switching continuously. The downstream O2 sensors are located after the cat, and they also monitor the switching from rich to lean. The cat uses the excess O2 to complete combustion of the exhaust gases so as a result the downstream sensor will switch at a slower rate than the upstream. With this in mind, the you first need to check the upstream sensors, and the exhaust system for leaks, and next the downstream sensor. Have the O2 sensors been replaced? They recommend replacing them around 80k, so they would be the first suspect.
  2. You are welcome, glad I could help you in the past. I suspected that there was a stored code. I am not too surprised that the guy at oreilly was mistaken, a lot of people do not understand how it is suppose to work, and I feel that some of the basic scanners are a little misleading, and only add to the confussion. You are correct that P0420 is for the cat efficiency but the cat is not the only problem that could set the code. To explain the basic operation of the system, The upstream O2 sensors are used to controll the fuel to air mixture. The Ecm varies the mixture from rich, to lean, trying to keep the upstream sensors switching continuously. The downstream O2 sensors are located after the cat, and they also monitor the switching from rich to lean. The cat uses the excess O2 to complete combustion of the exhaust gases so as a result the downstream sensor will switch at a slower rate than the upstream. With this in mind, the you first need to check the upstream sensors, and the exhaust system for leaks, and next the downstream sensor. Have the O2 sensors been replaced? They recommend replacing them around 80k, so they would be the first suspect.
  3. The flat rate manual lists the labor as being only 2.2 hours, make sure to replace the expansion valve, and the reciever/dryer when you have the evaporator replaced.
  4. is it the front or rear manifold? I would call around to the local wrecking yards, or check ebay. You should be able to find a good used manifold for much less. It is not a good idea to continue to drive with a exhaust leak. CO is poisonous, and a leak can throw off the O2 sensors. I would recommend shopping around. The qoute sounds a little high, was that a dealership, or independant shop?
  5. There is a egr temp sensor, this is what the ECM uses to determine egr flow. I can send you a word doc that describes how to check the egr modulator, send me a PM with your email (I cannot upload word docs to this site).
  6. Sounds strange, I am very surprised that there would be no stored codes. It might possibly be a quirk of the model code reader that Autozone used. It probably is not anything to be too concerned about, but if you are really curious you could purchase a recorder. Recorders plug into the OBDII port and records the data stream, depending on the amount of memory, the storage can cover a long period of driving. Professional scanners have had this function for a long time. I have just found out about the hobby version a short time ago. You can pick them up for around $60, and there is a interface that plugs into you PC compatible computer.
  7. Do not replace the egr valve without further testing, chances are that is not the problem. You need to check the vac modulator before replacing the egr valve. Do you have a manual? It would also be a worthwhile to purchase a hand held vac pump, harbor freight sells one for about $20 or so. The quick easy way to check the valve and passageways is to use the handheld pump to apply vaccum to valve while the engine idles. If the valve is working, the engine will start running extremely rough. While the engine is off, you can apply vaccum to the valve and see if it hold a vac for awhile. If it holds a vac, the diapham inside the valve is good. With these two test you will know if there is any problem with the valve and the egr tubes. Anyway, the issue is probably the modulator, or the egr sensor.
  8. I would suggest backprobing the connector, the connector needs to be hooked up the the valve in order to complete the circuit. There are special probes that slip between the wire and the connector (on the rear of the connector). The one I have uses sewing pins inside a special holder. If you solder a couple wires to sewing pins you will have something that is functionally the same. Monitor the other valve to get a idea what the voltage should be. Note I have not tried this, but I would bet that it would work. A True RMS meter will calculate the true power, which should vary with the pulse width. While a regular meter only reads peak voltage, and then multiplies by .707 to display a ac voltage. Of course a scope would show the actual waveform.
  9. I have not worked on one of these yet, so you will have to wing this one. If you cannot figure out a way to do it from the valve area, you might want to pressurize it from the oil filter. Since you have already replaced the ECM, the other possibilities are the valve, wiring and oil feed line. Do you have access to a o'scope? If so check the signal at the valve. If not, do you have access to a DVM that can read TRUE RMS AC voltage? Most DVMs do not read true rms, they read peak rms and then extrapolate the ac reading. The signal to the valve is a pulse width modulated signal. I would assume that the average meter would not be able to follow the actual readings. Did you try to read the voltage at the valve? It is possible there is a wiring problem, and unless the ECM has the hardware, and software code to monitior it will not set a code for the oil control valve circuit. I am aware of only a few circuits that it does monitor, such as the O2 sensor heaters. It is possible that the wire harness or connectors are causing this problem and since the ECM is not monitoring the actual valve signal, it will not generate a error code.
  10. The light will go out at soon as the ECM see's the input reading back in a "normal" range, but the code that set the light will remain for a finite period. For this reason, if you see the light go on, even for a short period. Get the codes read, you want to know what it is, even if only intermitent. Once the problem is corrected, the code will clear by itself.
  11. When you tested the OCV for operation, did you hook it up to 12 volts to make sure that it opened? I would also suggest getting a can a brake cleaner and using that on the valve while it is actuated. If that looks normal I would suggest trying check if the oil supply tube is clogging up. If you can, try to hook up a air compressor to the supply line and blowing back thru (remove the oil filter first). I would also be concerned about the other codes that you have. Then check engine light will go off as soon as the problem is fixed, the codes should clear a short while latter. I do not recall exactly how many engine cycles it takes, but if it has been more than a few weeks the codes should have cleared themselves.
  12. What color are the front plugs? Does it smell like fuel? I would pull the manifold, check all of the plugs, and run a compression check. With the results of these checks it will be easier to determine the next steps. Remember you want to keep track of which plug is which, and the compression of each cylinder. As far as a borescope, do you know any avid hunters? Maybe on of them could hook you up with a scope. It would not take much coolant to cause knocking on a high compression engine. Take your time, at this point it is important to accurately collect information.
  13. I would strongly recomend the timing belt tensioner, and of course a new thermostat, and hoses.
  14. If you could borrow a borescope, you could pull the spark plugs and see if there is anything in the cylinders. But I would really doubt that you dropped anything in there, (i would suspect that you would know it before you drive 60 miles). My first quess would be the intake manifold gaskets leaking coolant. Have you checked the oil? Check the spark plugs for signs of coolant. If you need another engine, I would suggest doing a search on ebay for JDM engines. You can pick up a good, low mileage engine, complete with all accessories cheap. I have used these engines several times and strongly recommend them.
  15. Here is a picture of the abs relay, try pulling the abs motor relay and then see if you still have the noise.
  16. I would suggest taking it to another shop. You need to make sure that the engine is running properly before looking at the trans as having a problem. You did not mention if the check engine light is on, but the fact that it runs rough for the first 5 mins would be the first thing to correct. How long ago was the last full tune up? Have you checked the transmission oil level? What does the oil look like? Avoid a transmission flush, too many issues involved there. I would suggest shopping around more for a independent repair shop. They are out there, it just takes awhile to find one that you are comfortable with. When you talk with them, keep in mind that their side. I used to turn wrenches professionally, and got tired of putting up with the BS. Yes some shop owners push the up sell and that stuff. But there are also the customers that come in am tell you what is wrong with their cars, and exactly what you should repair. They will then scoff at you opinion and only authorize what they think should be repaired. They will then complain when it still does not work.
  17. the location depends on the year of your car, which you did not mention. I would suggest having someone put the key in the ignition while you look under the hood. Try to narrow down the location of the noise first.
  18. when you first turn the key to the run position, there is a pump inside the abs unit that runs for a few seconds to build up hydraulic pressure in the accumulator. You can test to see if this is what you are hearing by removing the abs relay and then turning the key on. In you first post, you mention that is does not mater what position the key is in. Is this correct?
  19. You need to locate the connector, and short TE1 to E1. You then turn the ignition switch to the ON position (do not start the car) and the check engine light will flash any codes.. If you do not feel comfortable with this, and want a little more detail with some pics, "PM" me your email address. I will send a word doc that includes pics, and goes into plenty of detail. ( I've tried uploading these types of files before but have not had any success).
  20. Each position has it's own light bulb. You will need to remove the instrument panel and replace the bulb.
  21. 10 months later is a very long time to try and associate at leak with a trans flush. Many people would recommend avoiding a trans flush, just change the filter and oil at the recommended intervals and you should be fine.
  22. I would have to look that one up, but first check the signals going to the motor, by probing the switch. When you troubleshoot this type of problem, you want to generally start at the middle of the ciruit. (after a quick visual). The idea is to pick a spot close to the middle, that is easy to access. This way you will know which direction to proceed once you have made the initial measurement.
  23. First I would get rid of the duct tape, You can buy a new intake duct online for around $20. You are asking for problems when you rely on this type or repair. After that you need to check the basics, just because the car can idle means very little. Things like bad hoses, spark plugs and wires will cause far too many problems. Next I would check for codes, you do not need any special tools to do this. There is a connector underneath the hood, you short E1 to TE2, then turn on the ignition (do not start the car). The check engine light will flash the codes. Other people on the bd have done good writeups, do a search for further descriptions. As far as the speed sensor, there are actually two located on the transmission, the one with two terminals in the connector is use by the ECM to monitor the transmission. The other sensor (near the differential) has three terminals, and is the one that supplies the signal for the speedometer and also the ECM (used to determine fuel delivery, spark advance). It sounds like the discount parts store that you went to is pretty lame, I would suggest looking for another one. A decent store should have had at least one person behind the counter that could have told you that OBDI engines do not have special codes readers. Most people just use a paper clip, and anyone with a little experience should have been able to tell you that.
  24. I would put the meter across both wires going to one of the mirror motors. Chances are that you have a bad grd. The switch controls both the power and grd going to the motors. That way the can reverse the direction on the motor. If you put you meter across the two wires going to the motor, the meter should read +12 and the - 12 (depending on which direction you push the switch).
  25. I would suggest taking it back, with a aftermarket radio install there are too many possibilities to try to diagnose without seeing the system. Chances are that the person who installed this use few if any of the original wire harness.
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