worldly traveler

I used a circuit tracer to find wire plugging into EC1. The EC1 was behind the glove box (must be removed) and had 4-5 plugs of multiple wires plugged into it. I made my jumper next to the manifold (drivers side) where the wire splits to the two sensors. There are two plugs (one for bank 1 and the other is bank 2). I just unplugged one of them and used wire to make my temporary jumper to find right sensor. Clear codes and drive. It took less than 1/2 mile before mine recoded. After finding bad sensor wire harness, I just cut into wire close to plug and tied in bad sensor wires to it and electrical taped the splice.....been working fine ever since.

UPDATE: I made jumper to test for knock sensor which code was not pulling. That sensor did not code while driving. After testing sensor, I made a quick fix by splicing into the lead going to knock sensor that was not coding. Fingers crossed, code was cleared and has not returned and this has been since initial post. After running the car with code off, the difference in performance was noted. I am sure eventually the other sensor will go out and end up replacing both at that time, however this bandaid is sufficient for time being. George, Very interesting and now much more clear. Thanks. So I have both sensor codes (P0325 & P0330) showing up, making me think wiring all the more. Jumpering not a fix in this case I'd think, but externally mounted knock sensor might. I haven't taken a look to see if the connection is intact at EC1, this may be the simple solution. But if it isn't (the solution) may chase the wiring back to the ECU. L

I have read through most post on here and need help.....Have 98 Lexus ES300 that recently coded P0330 which I know is knock sensor. Looking through these post, many have had overdrive problems and lack of power. I have no such issues leading to the question is there something else that could cause fault code to appear? the car runs great and there is no difference in driving after code has been erased. After erasing and driving a few miles code reappears, but like I stated no diffrence in performance. Gurus, what else could cause this coding and how can I confirm that knock sensor or harness may be bad? What are some of the checks or test that can be done before tearing into the engine to confirm?

Thanks for the input. I know that the 98 has two knock sensors that are located on the block. They are both located under the manifold and it is very extensive and time consuming to remove upper engine parts just to get to both sensors. I have tried to locate the harness that goes to the sensors and am unsure were they connect to ECM. My thoughts were to try and do a continuity check or swap the connectors to see if a code would come back or maybe the harness was bad. Any input or suggestions would be greatly appreciated on this type of check. I am trying to eliminate any other possibilities that underlining cause for code could be by product of some other issue I am unaware of.

How did you rewire (specifically) the knock sensor at the ecm? I want to try mine to see if that is actually the problem before tearing into the engine to replace them.

I recently purchased a 98 ES300 from a friend. The car is great shape and runs spectacular. Before purchasing the 100,000 mile service was completed and all was good. Since, the car has 4,500 miles added and the CEL has come on. The code was P0330 indicating the knock sensor. There is no indication of sluggish power, overdrive shifts great and functioning properly, etc. etc. Is there a test for the knock sensors to make sure that there is a problem before tearing into the engine?