SupraMan

My ES300 has 202,000 miles. I use full synthetic Mobil 1 because Walmart sells a top lube inexpensively. It doesn't leak or burn any oil, it just purrs. Engineered lubricant is exactly that, something that is designed from the ground up to offer superior lubrication characteristics with a non dyno-juice base for a longer duration at higher price point. Any quality lubricant and a great filter like Purolator Pure One with proper change interval WILL absolutely prolong engine life. For under ten bucks more per change, I can extend the drain cycle so it is actually costing less per mile. I never planned keeping the ES this long, but have a morbid curiousity how long it will run well; several friends own 250-350k+ samples still running great. Amazing value.

My wife has a long term assignment in Charleston, SC with either one of our '96 ES300/'95 LS400 vehicles. We have located a great indy garage as well as a real live Lexus dealership ASE mechanic that will moonlight at a greatly reduced rate. Are there any mechanics who fall into either camp close to Charleston? I surely would like to find either who will not hit me for ridiculous bills like the dealership. Any suggestions?

I bought a 96 ES300 in good shape at 90k miles five years ago. I've put it up to 183k miles now, only replacing the rear wheel bearing as something outside my very regular maintenance. Recently changed the timing belt, w/p, etc. so ready for another 90k miles. Never thought I would buy a car to bury it later, but a friend just retired his 1st gen ES at almost 400k miles so I think mine is far from dead. With all the cars I've owned over the years including some 60's Volvos, this is probably the best one for longevity without showing it's age. Time will tell; thanks to all here who have given me so many good ideas to keep it going this well over the years.

LL, thanks for great advice. I'm looking for that new garage guy now; mine likes running the billing clock like most. I think my swap time on the compressor and drier will be well under 3 hours with just basic tools utilized. That gives me +/- $200/hour for my contribution! I'll keep you folks posted.

Thanks GJ! I wasn't clear when I wrote this, knowing a full system flush is needed BEFORE new parts are added. Any idea of a ballpark figure on the system flush? I'm going to add 20cc of PAG-46. The rest just seems a simple mechanical swap, with special attention to keeping contaminants out of the lines during the process. then going back to the shop for a vacuum system then fill. I found this illustrated how to: http://www.scribd.com/doc/19394743/1997-Lexus-ES-300-FSM-Section-11a-Air-Conditioning. Shows all sorts of ES HVAC stuff. Pg. 1590-1601 covers it all for my a/c.

My a/c compressor died recently, verified by my mechanic. He wants $800 to replace it and the drier. I can get a fresh rebuilt Denso unit with drier, oil and o-rings for $150 delivered. I know that there will be no gas evacuation recycle because I don't have that equipment. Other than that, is it just a simple raise up the car; drop the undershield; take off compressor and drier and replace components? I think I need a pro to flush it then and recharge system.This should save over $600 for me for a couple hours work. Any comments from HVAC certified members? Thanks in advance for your help.

It turned out to be a loose connector between the main box and fuse box under the dash. There was a burn mark around the contact lug; great Toyota design that did not give a totally snug fit between spade and lug, causing a minor PITA. Geez, it would have been at least a grand to fix it at the $tealer$hip. (Maybe I would even been recommended to have it totalled because of cost/value issues!??? is what my indy repair buddy quipped). Anyhow, all is fixed and I am happy again with this first gen ES300.

Did some troubleshooting today, it appears that it's a broken connection between the main relay and the adjacent underhood fusebox. Probably a wire separation under the box, yuk. I need to work on it a couple more hours, but not tonight! :chairshot:

Thanks for your input; the '96 ES is much simpler with just one function available on door unlock. I looked for a 92-96 schematic posted but could not find one. That will give me some answers ...

I spent all day in real estate continuing ed (yuk!) courses, only to exit tonight with all four windows (w/lockout switch in correct position), power door locks and sunroof on my '96 ES300 unresponsive to control switch inputs. The front locks do click SLIGHTLY when rockers are pushed, but don't move. Is there a common relay and/or fuse for these circuits? Everything worked fine at lunch, then my black car baked outside in 90 degree heat this afternoon for 4 hours with all not operable now. Any ideas? Thanks y'all!

My 1996 ES with almost 170k just started clunking over bad pavement. I know it's not the rear sway bar, renewed bushings and connectors with a new Whiteline upgrade. New wheel bearing also. My former Toyota service manager/savvy work buddy says it's probably upper shock mount; I couldn't get anything to clunk when I put it up on a jackstand and thumped up with a hammer on the tire to replicate the condition. This car is going to be sold soon, so I'm not excited about replacing rear shocks/mounts/boots/isolators. I've checked in the trunk, nothing bumping around with my spares and tools there :>) Any ideas?

Thanks, homemech, it's what I suspected. Just another maniacal maintenance dude looking to get max miles out of my ride ...

When my car is stone cold, it sometimes takes a half mile or so to shift into overdrive then it's ok. It's a '96 ES300 with 156k miles, been babied and not abused. I changed the ATF completely with Toyota fluid when I bought it used at 85k; drain 3 quarts ATF and refill ever other oil change. Oh, dropped the trans pan and changed the filter and fluid at 120k. I use a magnetic inline ATF filter per a LOC contributor, changed periodically. It only does this delayed upshift to overdrive from stone cold, and infrequently. But it annoys the heck out of me as it happens. Is this just an age/wear thing with the autotrans, should I not be concerned, or is it possibly a part hinting fatigue? After a fruitless search here, thought I would ask for advice. Thanks to all.

Capnfred, you are waaaaaaay beyond my competence (and patience!) in repair skills. Kudos, I love reading posts like this ... especially with a happy ending. Out of detail interest, how many miles on the beast when this happened?

Thanks to all who posted on this topic, just did front vc gasket at 156k miles and will do rear soon. The rear has been a very slow leaker for the 60k miles I had it, just tolerated it until the front recently started weeping. Did get the sp seals at Toyota @$10/3 ... like previously stated, they just cracked in 2 pieces when removed. A breeze to do the front vcg; got courage to tackle rear now, I'll save $$$ and get the satisfaction of fixing it myself. For a really nice pictorial on the 1MZ engine vcg removal, check out http://www.wjowsa.com/?p=30. Great stuff, online is sometime so much better than what's in repair manual print! Did notice a little dried up sludge build up in the upper corner of the vc, probably just a nasty leftover from the slacker previous owner who liked Jiffy Lube service. I thought my post-purchase 2x Seafoam cleaner treatments and full synthetic oil use subsequent would preclude any deposits ... guess that crusty stuff in the upper corner didn't get splashed enough with the cleaner during the flushes. My concern is probably more overreaction to a normal situation, these engines are noted for sludging issues especially with dino lube. I'm just concerned that this may be indicative of much more hidden sludging, any thoughts on this?