George_Jetson

One easy way to determine if the is the sensor, or the ECM is to swap the wires at the EC1 connector. This is located at the end of the cylinder head, on the trany end. There are two wires on this connector, one for each of the sensors. If you swap the wires, and the codes changes to P0325, then you know that the sensor, or the wire connected to the sensor is bad. At this point you could just jumper both wires to the working sensor. The two sensors are located just a inch or two apart. If one sensor picks up indications of pre-ignition, it is a safe bet that the other sensor is also picking up signals.

I had a spark plug blow out on mine. What you need is a kit called Time-sert. You can find them on ebay, just do a search. Make sure that you buy a kit designed for the deep spark plug wells that these cars have, and not the shorter version. I paid about $100 for my kit, considering the alternative is to pull the head, these kits are cheap. When you cut the threads, and the insert seat, make sure that the tools have a good coat of grease. This will help catch the shavings. Then use a air compressor and appropriate fittings to blow out the cylinder.

Bank 1 references the bank which cylinder #1 is located in. So in your case, you want to replace the one next to the firewall (which is a real pain in the butt to get to. It is easier to get to from underneath the car. If you decide to go this route, make sure that you use a good quality jackstand to lift the car. Do not get underneath the car while it is on the car jack. Your typical carjack is barely safe enough to lift the car to change a tire.

Send me a pm with your email. I will send a doc that explains it fairly well. Don't forget, once you have everything lined up, and set. Turn the engine over with a socket on the crank. two complete revolutions. Then recheck your marks.

I would ask the mechanic to explain what happened before passing judgement. Looking at your location "Pearl Beach" exactly how close to the beach do you live? I used to work as a mechanic in Hawaii, more than one car came in that we refused to work on due to corrosion. The salt air can destroy a car in short order. I remember one car in particular that looked fine when I drove it onto the lift, once on the lift I was shocked. The underside of the car was a rust bucket. It is possible that the mechanic was not really at fault, or at least maybe if rust was a issue he should have called you first and made you aware of the risks involved.

Check the circuit for the air mix door. In recirc mode, the heater core water control valve is normally shut off. While in normal mode, the controller mixes heated air with the cold air in order to very the temp or the air (it is much easier to control the amount of heated air than it is to control the temp or the evaporator core). A easy way to test this is to locate the water control valve, and manual turn it off and see if the air is coming out any colder.

If you have sparks coming off your battery terminals, it is evident that you have poor connections. The starter will pull app 90 amps no-load. This amount of current requires a secure, clean electical connection. There is a good possibility that there was nothing wrong with the battery, other than the fact that the poor connections inhibited the alternator from charging the battery properly. The battery cables on these cars are fairly generic, so you can "carefully" remove the entire cable. Take the cable to the local auto parts store, and buy a generic cable for less than $12 each. I would strongly suggest doing both the neg and pos, because chances are if the neg terminal is throwing sparks, the positive terminal is also is poor shape.

The white smoke would indicate a possible headgasket, along with the overheating. BUT that would not explain the fuel in the oil. A leaking injector would expain that. Another possibility to look at is the fuel pressure regulator. If the diaphram inside the regulator is torn, it would allow raw fuel to be drawn up the vac line, into the manifold. Run a compression check, then start the engine, and pull the vac line off the regulator. If you see any gas, you have a bad regulator. As far as the codes for MAF sensor, and IAT sensor. The IAT is located inside the MAF. Depending on which pin was pushed back, it is very possible that both codes would be set. Since you indicate that the code did not return, I would assume that the pin was probably for the com (grd connector).

Without being able to monitor the output, adding propane would not tell you anything. The idea is that higher end scanners will show you the actual voltage in real time. If you spray propane into the airflow meter you will see the O2 sensors putting out a high voltage.

How much are you willing to risk? You will get no warning before it goes so the question is how far do you want to push it.

I would also assume they would not pass the car with any codes. It may possibly be a slightly dirty contact on one of the relays powering the ECM or fuel pump. Did you was the engine recently, or drove thru standing water? There could have been some water intrusion into a connector. Otherwise I would just wait untill you have further sypmtoms. I know that is not the most comfortable feeling, but it does not sound like there is a mechanical problem with the engine.

Do you remember which O2 sensor you replaced? Ideally, if you have a scanner that allows you to monitor the sensor voltage, I would recommend adding propane to force a rich condition while monitoring the sensor output. This will tell you if the sensor is working. Otherwise you could look into swapping Bank 1 sensor 1 and bank 2 sensor 1

Has any work been done recently, such as changing valve cover gaskets? If you have access to a scanner, you could check the fuel air sensor response by monitoring the output while adding extra fuel (ie such as propane from a un-lite propane torch). Otherwise you could swap sensors with bank 2 (make sure the connector is the same first). You did not mention what the mileage is.

Does not sound like bad valve stem seals, since it only happened the one time there is not much that you can do. I would suggest having the battery checked. A weak batters can cause unusual symptoms and some cars are more sensitive than others (my dodge ram being one of the worst that I have seen). I would also suggest seeing if there are any stored codes. Otherwise there is not much else you can do.

Since both codes are for missfire, have you checked the spark plug? Also check compression, to small of a gap on one of the valves will cause lower compressions and a missfire. There could also be a issue with the injector, you could try swapping with with #4 and see if the missfire moves.

That is called "VSV" (vacuum switching valve). It is used to control the variable induction system. There is a vacuum controlled valve at the passenger side of the intake plenum, it controls a butterfly valve (looks like a throttle plate), inside the intake plenum. It is used to control the effective intake runner length. At lower rpm's you want a longer intake to allow the momentum of the airflow to help fill the cylinders. At higher speeds you want shorter runners that allow for better filling. The ECM controls the valve.

Fuel pumps or filters never go bad? Good luck with your car, I will not bother to make any more posts on this.

I will try all your checks I also found a crack in my air intake hose I have a replacement on its way I will clean the air flow meter then. thanks again George. The intake hose could be the problem, if the crack lets in enough un-metered air (bypasses the flow meter) it will get a leaning of the mixture. With the air intake hose this will vary as the engine tilts when you accelerate hard. The tilt will open/close any cracks in the intake. From what I have read, the front bank is more sensitive to this (I personally do not know if this is true).

If you followed the play into the rack and pinion, I would suggest getting a rebuilt rack and installing it. Make sure that you flush the lines out before installing the new one.

The fuel filter is normally considered routine maint, just as a air filter would be (only not as frequent). It is easy to change, just make sure that the engine is cold. The fuel lines remain under pressure all of the time, so when you disconnect the lines a little fuel will spray out. As long as there are no ignition sources (like a hot exhaust) it is not a problem. The fuel pump on these cars are much easier than most, most cars require that you drop the gas tank. You can reach the fuel pump from the back seat on these cars. To verify a bad pump, you need to measure the pressure and volume of the pump delivery. Since Toyota did not feel it was necessary to install a test port, you will need adapters to install a gauge. The gauge and adapters would run you a couple bills. You could swap the Fuel pump relay, it is cheap and easy. Download the factory service manual (at the top of this page), with common sense precautions this work is easy for a junior mechanic.

With 150k,I would change the filter, it is cheap enough. I would also change the pump. Unless you have the proper tools to check the pressure and volume from the fuel pump you are just guessing. With what a professional mechanic charges per hour you could just buy a pump and install it yourself.

??? FAN CLUTCH for a transverse engine??? I suggest you download the manual and look at the cooling section. Only cars with conventional engine mounting can have a fan clutch, if I remember correctly, you have electric fans.

I still recommend cleaning the airflow meter, but with that additional information I would have gone in a different dirrection. With all that has been done this is what I would recommend. 1) clean airflow meter 2) do a compression check, at least the front bank (even number cylinders 3) check the spark plugs, were they gapped before you installed them? I used to not believe in gapping the plugs, but I now firmly believe that it must be done. 4) check all vac hoses and fix any leaks. 5) I would not take it back to the guy that sold you knock sensors, that is beyond a total ripoff.

All manufactures will stamp the min thichness on the hub of the rotor, you may have to look at the back, but it will be on there somewhere.