Bedore

I just did the valve cover gaskets on my 97 ES300. You will have to remove the upper intake plenum, and set it aside. Once thats done you should be able to get at all the bolts to remove the valve cover. They are in a kind of hard spot, but I didn't have too many problems getting at all the bolts. Just take your time and you should be all set.

You should check the ABS wheel sensor on the left rear wheel. Chances are when the strut was replaced the wheel sensor got damaged or the wire broken, and the sensor may need to be replaced or cleaned. Either way when the ABS system detects a problem it will disable traction control as traction control relies on the ABS system for it to work correctly. The ABS wheel sensor will be located on the back side of the lower suspension setup, behind the hub. You won't miss it as it's the only sensor that has a wire running to it and is located on the rear of the suspension setup. Feel free to remove the rotor if you need to. That would also be a good time to inspect your emergency brake components, and make sure the shoes are adjusted properly with the adjuster. Start with locating the wheel sensor and making sure it's not damaged and still has a wire connected to it. If so, remove the wheel sensor and clean it (you can google on how to clean a wheel sensor). Start there and see what you come up with. As far as the check engine light, it's probably related to the ABS system so you can try and clear the codes when you find the problem and see if that turns the lights out or not. There may be a different method for clearing the ABS code and/or turning the light off other than a simple ECM reset, but I have not encountered it yet on my ES300. Hopefully someone else can chime in. Should be a fairly simple fix.

I tested the heater circuit as the FSM says to, looking for resistance across the two terminals. I got no resistance, so I am assuming the sensor needs to be replaced? And is there a way to hook a universal up to it?

Greetings all, I recently had the check engine light come on with the code P0141. This indicated a heater malfunction in Bank 1 Sensor 2. This would be the post catalyst sensor. I plan to measure resitances in the heater circuit. I also unplugged the sensor and plugged it back in, just to make sure there wasn't a contact problem. If the o2 sensor turns out to be no good, I do plan to replace it. Here is my issue. I have a few new O2 sensors kicking around. I do have a couple universals. I noticed the color code on the ES300 sensor was 2 blacks, a white, and a blue wire. The universal o2 has two whites, a black, and a gray wire. Obviously these colors don't match up but I was wondering if anyone here has sucessfully installed a universal O2 in place of a factory O2 sensor, and if so what colors are the correct ones to match up? At this time I am thinking it's probably not possible, but just in case I wanted to be very sure it was not possible before I shell out the money on an OEM O2 sensor. If I have to I have to, and I understand that OEM is the way to go, but i'd still like to be 100% sure, so any replies are very welcome.

Thanks for the replies. It has been years since I have had a vehicle with drum brakes, but I do recall how they operate and I should be able to fix the problem. When I pressed the e-brake, the pedal travels to the floor but it feels like it has little resistance. With the brake all the way on, the car will still roll smoothly, so I suspect that the cables are not hooked up, or the brake components are damaged. I will be able to find out more when I tear into it this weekend. I will post back with my results. Thanks again for the pointers.

The FSM for my 97 does indeed make refrence to a differential. However, it's not a common style of differential you would find on a traditional RWD or 4x4 vehicle. That said, a google search uncovered the information I posted above and also information that there does appear to be a seperate differential unit, if you will. It only holds around 1.7 quarts when drained, and is a pain in the behind to fill as the hole appears to be small. However I have also read that the way to fill it is from the transmission dipstick tube, but there is much conflicted information about it, as the information above says that there is indeed a fill hole. Perhaps someone who knows for sure can chime in and tell us about this supposed differential and how it's drained and filled, and maybe what it does exaclty, in relation to the actual transmission? Also the service history of my 97 ES300 on Lexus.com does have a differential fluid change listed as as being done to the car seperately from a transmission fluid service, so I can only surmise that there is indeed a differential, though not in the traditional sense, and does not use heavy hypoid gear oil, but ATF like in the transmission. I am hoping someone can chime in and figure this out for us.

Hello all, I have a 1997 ES300. I noticed some noise from the rear brakes, like they are dragging. Sometimes when I am going real slow not even using the brakes, I can hear a groan/whine from the rear (like when you first get in your car and it's been raining, the brakes make that kind of noise). The groan/whine isn't a huge deal and doesnt happen all the time but it would be good to fix it. It usually happens at low speeds and when I touch the brakes it begins to make the noise. If I let off on the brakes it still makes the noise as the car is rolling slowly, but once I stop and go again it usually doesnt make the same noise. However the dragging noise is there all the time. I took the pads and caliper off the wheel and turned the passenger rear disc by hand and I could hear something making contact. This is definitely the noise im hearing all the time. When I drive over a bridge or between two buildings you can really hear it good. Is this something to do with the parking brake system? Is it possible for the rear shoes to be dragging? I didnt have time today but this weekend I plan to pull the rotor off and inspect the components, but wanted to gather some info first as to what it might be.

The transmission and differential both use ATF. Not sure where the fill plug is, sorry. Looked through my FSM and could not find a good refrence. ETA: Here is info I found on a different forum relating to a Solara V6...use at your own risk! Hope this helps.