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George_Jetson last won the day on January 20 2014

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    93 es300

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  1. The parking brakes are a conventional drum brake inside the rear rotor. From reading your post, it sounds like you have mechanical experience and that you probably have worked on drum brakes before. The only difference with this parking brake, as opposed to a hydraulic activated drum brake, is the cable. Besides the normal things to look for, you also what to inspect the cable for corrosion, or damage to the cable housing, things that would prevent the shoes from retracting fully.
  2. It sounds like the problem is still there, the light should have gone off far before 80 miles. What code do you have?
  3. Both the speed sensor, and "D" drive sensor are other possibilities, but one thing that you must keep in mind is that some of these switches / sensors have more than one "section" IE such as the brake switch. One section will control the brake lights, and one is a input to the cruise control. Just because one section is working, does not indicate that the other is. Now checking the brake lights is a good idea, if the lights are on all the time it would indicate what you next step would be. If the lights are working correctly you may still have a problem with the switch. So with that in mind, you can check the basics that have allready been mentioned. If you do not see the problem, you will need to get a schematic to take it further.
  4. Check the brake switch, if that is has loosened up and moved cruise control will not engage. Since the cc was designed to dis-engage when the brakes are pressed, it will generate no error codes.
  5. Looking closely at the crank gear, it looks like it may be off one tooth. Do not rely on the timming marks on the pulley. I would suggest counting the teeth on the crank gear, and placing a mark 180 deg opposite of the timming mark. Then hold a straight edge up to these two marks and see if they point to the alignment mark. It is very hard to see in the pictures, but it is possible that you are off a tooth
  6. Worn mounts are one thing to look at, how is your idle speed? Is it stable?
  7. Hi,, I actually deleted that doc. Let me know what year your car is, and your email. This site will not let me post doc (I think you have to have a paid membership to do that). Anyway, I can put that together again and email that to you.

  8. Sounds like you have a decent mounting bracket. You want AC volts because of the nature of the signal that is coming off the sensors. It looks like a high speed sine wave ( not the correct term, but the closest that I could think of). Ac volt meters are designed to read this type of voltage. DC is for a steady state voltage, and is fairly useless for this particular measurement.
  9. Hi, I have the same vehicle that you do. I noticed on one of the threads that you mentioned sending a doc that explains camshaft timing marks and pulley placement fairly well. Could you possibly contact me. I'm in real need of it right now.

  10. Is there any possiblity that you could get a borrow a oscilliscope? Since the knock sensor is pizo-electric, it will put out a signal even with no wire connected to it. I have not personnelly tried the external mount thing, (read it on another forum), but it sounded good to me. did you use a fairly heavy bracket to mount the sensors? Do you have any friends that drive a lexus/toyota of similar year? If so, (and you do not have a scope), try measuring the output with a DVM on the AC volt scale. See what a good sensor reads. I am rather tied up now, but if you can wait a few days I can measure the output on my car. The AC volts scale will not tell you exactly what the reading is (a scope would tell you exactly), but it would give you a good relitive reading that should be more than adequete. For my 2 cents, I would assume that the knock sensors are more than likely close enought between the years, they should work.
  11. Get the codes read, the check engine light does not have to be on to read stored codes. When the check engine light comes on, it will normally store the code, so even if the light goes off you should be able to extract codes.
  12. The pro flush is to clean out any garbage that the failed compressor may have left in there. Ideally you want to run the flush BEFORE you put ne new parts in, while the system is all apart. Also keep in mind that if there are any problems with the new compressor, IE it fails shortly after install, the shop will not warranty it. Also if you do your own work, do not forget to add the proper amount of oil to the compressor, and oil the orings before you install them.
  13. Try rotating the tires and see if it changes. It is possible that they made a mistake while balancing the tires, or you could have a bent rim.
  14. Are you loosing coolant? Or oil? If you are loosing water, the shop should be able to pressurize the system and determine where it is leaking from.
  15. I am at work right now, when I get back home in the morning I will try to remember to upload some information on the timing marks. Perhaps a different view will help you get it going again. Also once you had everything lined up, did you turn the engine over with a wrench on the crank pulley two complete revolutions and then re-checked the timing? If not, that is always a good idea, especially if you are working on a interference engine.
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