George_Jetson

If both mirrors stopped at the same time, I would suggest looking at the grd for the switch. I have attached a copy of the diagram. You can see there is on splice that could also cause these symptoms. At this point I would detach the switch from the dash (while leaving the electrical connector hooked up. Probe the connector and see what you have. [

do you have mirrors with the memory option? or just the base remote mirrors?

When you hear the noise, can you also feel some drag/decrease in acceleration? Do you use the parking brake? If so try not setting the brake and see if that changes the symptoms. I would suggest at the first opportunity, that you jack up the rear of the car. One side at a time (supporting the car on a jackstand), and spin the wheel by hand.. Then grab the wheel at 3 & 9 o'clock position and try pushing with one hand, pulling with the other, and then vice a versa. Then grab it at 6 & 12 o'clock and try the same thing. You should feel no discernible play in any direction. If you do feel play, or hear noise when you spin it you either have dragging brakes, or a wheel bearing problem.

Tried to reply to the PM, not sure if you got it. If not, I did not get you email address.

A code P0125 may mean that one or more of the following has happened: * Insufficient warm up time * Low engine coolant level * Leaking or stuck open thermostat * Faulty coolant temperature sensor I copied and pasted the above from another site. So with this in mind first check coolant level. How does the temp gauge on the instrument panel read? Is it close to half way? If so you need to check the ECM coolant temp sensor. The ECM uses a different temp sensor than the instrument panel. So the ecm could be seeing a different temp than what the gauge indicates. And of course if the temp gauge reads cold, your thermostat is most likely stuck open. As far as the hose being collapsed, that would either be a bad rad cap, a bad hose or clogged rad. Since you just replaced the cap and rad, it is most likely the hose. I would recommend replacing all hoses and thermostat when replacing the rad, if finances allow.

Fairly straightforward, just make sure that you lubricate the new oring with a little bit of vasoline, and that you push it in straight. Also it is a good idea to disconnect the battery, and wait untill the engine is cold ( some fuel will spray out when you disconnect the old regulator ). If you really want some diagrams, PM me with your email and I will send you some.

With no details on what your friend installed, how he installed it, and if he used the stock amp, or bypassed the stock amp. Nobody is going to be able to give you specific instructions on how to fix this. I would suggest that you take it to a professional stereo installer and have them look at your system.

I suggest ohming the harness back to the ECM, you never know what the repair history is on the car. My personel car had a shorted cable to bank 1 O2 sensor. Apparently someone had replaced the valve cover gaskets, and the harness was installed improperly. The wire ended up shorting out.. As far as scanners, you may want to look at a USB scanner. You can find them in the $50 range, and they can be used on most OBDII vehicles. Which means that it will work on current cars, (although you may want to look at on that is CAN enabled).

Did you ohm the wires back to the ECM? For continuity as well as shorts? I would look very closely at this. Once the wiring and O2 sensor has been eliminated, it would tend to point to the ECM being bad. So of course you will want to make sure before replaceing the ECM. Did you use a generic O2 sensor, or did you use a direct replacement? Of course closely checking all the hoses for splits or cracks is always a good idea. Y Pulling the fuses, or disconnecting the battery works equally as well, (if you do not have a scanner). But the light will go out as soon as the problem is corrected (code will remain in memory for a short while). Do you have access to a advanced scanner, as opposed to a more basic code reader?

It sounds like you replaced the correct O2 sensor. And no, do not start looking at the Catalytic converter. Have you read the description of the code? Bascially the code is indicating that the output of the O2 sensor is not going high ocassionally. Since you have allready replaced the 02 sensor you should start looking at the wiring to the sensor. It is very possible that there is a bad connector, or one of the wires have been damaged. Since it is bank 1 sensor, it is very possible that the wire was damage on previous engine work (such as replacing the rear valve cover gasket). It is highly unlikely that the catalytic converter is causing the code. As far as gas mileage, the O2 sensor problems are probably causing this. The computer tries to enrich the mixture in a effort to drive the O2 sensor high. If you have a advanced scanner, you would most likely find that both the short term and long term fuel trims are high. This means that extra fuel is being added in a attempt to drive the signal high. Find the O2 sensor problem, and the trims should return to normal.

OBDI does not monitor anywhere near as many codes as OBDII, so You can very easily have a bad wire without having a code set. So I do not know why someone would tell you that there was a BAD valve unless they ran a compression check and or leak down check. I have several ASE certs including L1 advanced engine diagnostics, I assure you that checking the basics is the proper way to approach your current problem. This is of course assuming that you have not allready been working on the miss-fire problem. From what you have written, this is what I would suggest looking at first.

Start with the basics, such as when was the last tune-up? How do all the vac hoses look? Eliminate the normal things such as spark plugs, spark plug wires, cap and rotor, etc. Once you know that all these things are good, then run a compression check (this will tell you if there is a problem with the valves) and also check the injectors. 92 has a OBDI engine control, this is not sophisticated enough to catch most missing, 94 is when some autos started coming out with OBDII controls. OBDII will catch most missfires

Send me a PM with your email. I'll send you a doc that describes the adj in detail.

Call up the local auto wrecking yard, they will have a manual that will show all of the years, models that use the same pulley.

The rear of the door is sticking out slightly? That is fairly easy to fix. The door striker (located on the body piller) is adj. Make sure that you mark it first (with a grease pencil or something similar). Then you loosen the two screws and move the striker slightly inwards. Tighten the screws and check adj. I do not understand why the body shop did not want to bother with this, it is fairly simple of a adj.

175 is normal, were they all close to each other? %5 difference from the hightest to the lowest is great, Much more than 10% requires further testing. Glad to hear that it turned out to be minor.

How did you INSULATE the spark plug wires from the body?? This type of arcing is a sure sign that the wires need to be replace. Before trying to troubleshoot, you should do a complete tune-up. Plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fuel & air filter. When troubleshooting engine performance, you need to make sure that the basics have been checked and are in good condition before proceeding.

Are there any other symptoms? Was the damper replaced with a used or new unit? Is it leaking from the fittings? or the body of the damper? Unless the fuel pressure was too high, it is hard to see many other things that would cause a repeated leak. And if the pressure was too high, you should see other symptoms.

You are correct in your assumption. You have to plug into something that is powered all of the time. ie the such as the fuse for the radio mem / clock. If you are parking in a garage, next to a 110 power outlet it would be cheaper to buy a TRICKLE charger. Places such as harbor freight sell a decent one for app $6.00. I have been using one on my truck for over a year with no issue.

I', sorry, but I have to question the abilities of a mechanic that does major brake work, and obviously opened a brake line or two, and does not bleed the brakes after he is done? There is no excuse as to why he would not notice the problem when he test drove the car, and if he did not test drive the car it is even worse.

Check further back, near the rad cap (the one between the cylinder banks, not the one on the rad). There is a good possiblity that it is coming from that area. If you have a small inspection mirror, and a good flashlight check the entire area. The coolant can seep a good distance before it becomes visable. It could be as simple as a hose going bad.

"Normal" of course not. Exactly where around the parimeter of the head are you talking about? It could be coming from the head, or the intake manifold. Keep in mind that the leak is not necessarily right at the spot that you see it. But either way, the problem must be addressed, best to get it now before it gets worse.

The E brake system is separate from the regular brakes. it is best to have your mechanic double check the car. It sounds like there is a problem, and needs to be looked at by a mechanic.

What was the initial problem, and codes? Did you replace the timing belt recently?

Have you checked the oil level? What does the fluid look like?