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i think this will answer everyones questions or atleast educate ones without questions: read this topic

Grandpa: there's been a topic on here recently and i think that you posted in in...or not, not sure. but anyway, green coolant isn't necessarily bad. read or re-read the loooong topic on green vs. red vs. pink vs. whatever other colors they got. 91LS400: make sure that you read or have read the same topic so u'll know what i'm talking about with the coolant. it is very helpful. topic on coolant

hey 93, did i read that right? in 98 u were in 6th grade?? that makes u a senior in high school now and ur about 18 right? that would make u only 1 year older than me. i thought i was the only LS owner on this forum under the age of 25! also, i've never seen any Lexus pulled over yet either. it might be true about the suit and tie but does the same concept apply to younger LS owners like you and me. i'm thinkin that cops would still see us as punk teens in daddy's car even tho we own them.

well said flanker271! i'm way too lazy to type that out. one thing tho... speaking of lazy, im too lazy to see if the fuse type for the remote under the hood is the same as all the fuses in the kick panel. i know some of the fuses in the engine compartment are like big square things for like A/C and ignition main and stuff like that. i think think there are only like 4 or 5 of the small fuses in there and i hope that the remote fuse is one of them should i ever have any issues with it.

thats what i meant, i know they are called CV joints. i called them axles b/c i always talked about them in FWD cars and... i don't know. call it slang. so it IS possible to break CV joints on RWD vehicles? if so, why is it so much more common on FWD cars for them to break?

does the tape player play regular audio tapes? if so, visually compare the tapes and try to see a difference. if not, i dont think i can help you. Good luck.

so it would tear up a bunch of other bushings... but catastrophic suspension failure or something like a wheel coming off isn't likely/possible? and also...what about that rear axle boot?? im really curious to hear about that whole issue and how similar it is to my prev. front wheel drive car

the LED light near the remote on/off switch is for the alarm in general. you can still arm the alarm with the key in the drivers door no matter what position the remote on/off switch is in. the remote on/off switch is simply that. the only purpose of this switch is to enable/disable the ability to lock/unlock your doors and the alarm. there might be a fuse that is blown in your drivers side kick panel. do you have an owners manual? it should tell you which fuse is related to the alarm/keyless entry system.

GSsoldier: there are many reasons why one should get new tires. tire wear related issues usually if not always are because of 2 things: 1.)if you drive hard and put a lot of miles on a tire it will wear down the tread and eventually become a slick like a race car. this is bad because the reason that passenger vehicles have tread is so that tires can still get grip in the rain or on sand. if you dont have any tread, it is not easy or impossible to get proper traction. 2.)tires are made of rubber! (duh) rubber ages and becomes dry rotted from being weathered. signs of a dry rotted tire are: very many small or large cracks that are visible throughout the whole surface tire, tires that squeal easily and often in almost every turn even at slow speeds (like what you said), and horrible traction in the rain. my previous car came with 2 dry rotted tires and wet traction, well, what wet traction?? dry rotted tires can cause a big problem at high speeds too. it is possible that if the rot is so extensive, the tire can simply come apart because the integrity of the rubber is lost. it sound to me like u have dry rotted tires. get real close to your tire and look for small or large cracks on the sidewalls, on top of the tread and inbetween the tread.

are 1 or both batteries new or all u know is that they have batteries? did these remotes always work up until recently?

what could/will happen if this strut bar bushing is never replaced and it's in the same condition as slgreen's? will something eventually break?

??? maybe this is totally random to me because its 3:30 AM but then again....

u said so thats what im guessing is stuck. just the rotor.-but then u said- if you removed the caliper easily, how is the frame work still stuck if u just removed it? Also, what bolts where? please be more specific.

im not sure about the whole sway bar and bushing issue and all that. about the rear alxe boots: my previous car was a 1994 mazda 626 4 cyl 5 spd. i loved to beat the hell out of it. since it was front wheel drive and i loved my burnouts, and my axle boots were dry and cracking, all the grease dripped out. once the grease dripped out, there was nothing to lubricate the moving parts of the axle. eventually, i heard a clicking sound from the axle due to metal to metal contact. theres only so much metal can take before it breaks. eventually, one of my axles broke and left me stranded and needed to get a tow truck to bring my car to a shop. after it was all said and done, i my wallet was $180 lighter. obviously prices for parts and labor for a lexus is way higher than my mazda. also, the front axles on a front wheel drive car is like a universal or "swivel" joint for a socket set to get into tight spot. the joint is turned and twisted every time you turn the front wheels and whenever i did a burn out, massive amounts of stress were put on the non-lubricated joints. the only thing that i am really curious to see is how this applies to a RWD car like our LS's. the rear axles dont have to turn and twist in weird ways like a front wheel drive car b/c the back wheels dont steer. anyway, when i first found out about my dry and cracking boots on my mazda, they gave me 3 options: 1.replace the whole axle before it breaks, 2.keep driving around and wait for it to break and replace it then (what i did), or 3.replace just the boot with a new one and full it back up with grease. number 3 only applies of the axle is still OK and hasn't snapped yet. but again, im not sure if its possibe for the axle to break on a RWD car. as confusing as this may be, maybe it will help you.

markkr64: the only other thing that i would consider is the warranted miles they are supposed to get. maybe they're all the same....i am too lazy to look into it. mbpgawest: if they are similar to the tires that my 94 came on when i bought it 6 months ago (bridgestone turanzas) then they are great. my tires are perfect in every way. also, i've looked up comments and ratings for kuhmo tires on tirerack.com and they look great. they are extremely cheap and have awesome reviews. has anyone had kuhmo tires?

oh yea. i forgot to mention my car is a 94 and that i wasn't sure if the older models had the beeping.

yes, there should be beeps when the car is locked/unlocked: 1 beep when the car is locked, 2 beeps when the car is unlocked. there is a knob that turns up the volume of the beeping. the knob is no larger in diameter than a penny and is located near the hood release. if you have an owners manual, it should tell u better exaclty where this knob is located and which way to turn it. if you dont have an owners manual and can't find the knob or figure out how to use it then just ask for more details.

oh man i love the falls!

exactly, for example: when i get into my car when its 95 degrees outside and my car is sitting in the sun so its about 130-150 inside the car, if i hit the auto button and turn the temp to max cold, the fan doesn't reach it's highest speed for about 5-10 seconds. just like SW0 said, its takes a second so its gradual and not just a huge blast

i really have no idea what could be the problem with your speedometer but you have speed sensors on all 4 wheels b/c 4-wheel ABS comes standard and thats the reason why they're there.

agreed!

i forgot to mention that i already tried switching the ect power/norm button too. i tried every combination of all the things mentioned.

ok, you had a 94 LS that got wrecked right? I have a 94 also. If you remember on you rear view mirror on your 94, when you pressed it the mirror dimmed. thats sort of what the auto mirror does on your newer vehicle(s). when the auto feature is turned on, during the day the rear view mirror will stay at full brightness, at night when the headlights of cars behind you shine into the light sensor that is right next to the auto button, the mirror will dim. the dash lights dim with the dimmer knob just like your 94. i hope this clears up any and all confusion

i've read the bit you wrote about you not understanding the climate controls a few times and still do not understand what you are confused about. what exactly do you expect the climate control to do? i fully understand all climate control units in every lexus b/c i used to work at a lexus dealer. give more details and i'm sure i can help you.

have you used the memory seats before or do you know exaclty how to use them? theres a certain procedure explained in the owners manual of how to set memory positions and how to return the seat to the preset position. all actions to either set or move the seats to a preset position must take place with the car running or off, as long as it is in the "ON" position on the ignition. your foot must be off the brake pedal with the car in PARK. if you need more info on exactly how to set and return the seat to the previously set position, either read your owners manual or ask for more info.