1UZ-FE

duh! i have never seen a saturn with over 150k on it. i dont think that any saturn anywhere would last till 200k. its like my mom: she bought a 2003 mitsubishi eclipse spyder 4cyl auto. i told her that i would bet my life on the fact that my 94 LS with 165k is gonna last way longer than her brand new mitsu. i guarantee that im still gonna be driving my LS and loving it when she trades in that POS or it dies. and that it is HIGHLY unlikely that her car will ever see 150k. even if it does, it is gonna be in real sad shape.

the reason that the lurch is greater when the engine is cold is b/c the engine is still choked. if the engine is running at a higher RPM and then you connect the engine and transmission together, the transmission will want to spin as fast as the engine. similar to doing a "neutral drop": revving the engine up in neurtal and then jerking the shifter in drive in hopes on spinning tires or whatever (one of the WORST things u can do to a tranny). the only difference between a "neurtal drop" and what all of us experience in the morning: the RPMs are at 1,500 and not 5,000 which doesn't damage the tranny.

do a search on "ECT" and u should find the proper answer. ECT stands for "Electronically Controlled Transmission" i believe. from what i understand, this is basically what it does: when it is switched to "power", the transmission chooses the best shift point with the most HP and torque depending on how much gas you are giving it. with "power" selected, the transmission will also downshift sooner than it would in normal when giving it more gas, for passing and the like. most people think all this switch does is make it shift at a higher RPM. the tranny will shift at a higher RPM with it in "power" but a better explaination is stated above. this is supposed to give a more "sporty" driving experience. however, it doesn't matter if this switch is "normal" or "power" when giving full throttle. your tranny should always shift right around 6k RPMs.

you can not turn cross drilled and slotted rotors.

i understand all this. i have cruised at 130mph in arizona and didn't think twice about it. i am not an idiot who doesn't have common sense. i know that it isn't "required" or anything like that. i just dont see why you would go out of your way to get a lower speed rated tire. i say that b/c i have looked at tires at dealers around me and anything below H is really hard to find.

how did you acquire such a helpful tool?

thank you lexusfreak. the only other question is: WHAT KIND OF AN IDIOT WOULD PUT "T" RATED TIRES ON AN LS????? OMFG DUMB PEOPLE..... im not gonna go there. sorry, had to vent.

ok well im still confused about where this dent is exactly... stand next to your car (drivers side or passenger side doesn't matter) and face your car. depending on which side of the car you are standing, you should see either a right front tire & a right rear -or- left front & left rear. example: o------o the o's represent the tires. jack here o---^---o. your jack should pretty much be centered between front and rear tire. (this view from the side) i've even underlined where the ground is. this is another view as if u were above your car looking down. the 0's represent the tires. insert the jack where the > <'s are. the red is the outline of your car. ---------------__________ -------------------------------------- --------------|---------------|-------------------------------------- --------------|---------------|-------------------------------------- --------------0--------------0-------------------------------------- ------------ *|---------------|*------------------------------------ --------------|---------------|-------------------------------------- ------------>|---------------|<------------------------------------ --------------|---------------|-------------------------------------- -------------*|---------------|*------------------------------------ --------------0---------------0-------------------------------------- --------------|__________|------------------------------------- (try to ignore all the horizontal dashes. i tried using space bar but it didn't work.) this should give you a pretty good idea of where your jack should be. the only other thing left to explain is how far to push it under the car. if you get down next to your car, and look just in front of the rear tire and behind the front tire (indicated in 2nd diagram with *'s), you will see this: -------------___---------------------___--------------- _______|----|____________|----|__________ (imagine the red lines are connected) and actually i think u were trying to draw whats above and drew this this is a real close up. the notches on the car are actually less than an inch wide and tall. once again, this is best seen facing your car from the side with the the tires at eye level (your eyes need to be about 1 foot off the ground) and looking where the stars are in the diagram. these notches are where the manual says to jack but thats for 1 tire or corner at a time. u want the whole side up. you can use your floor jack directly between these marks in the middle of the car as shown in figures 1&2 and along the same piece of metal with the notches in it. i really dont know any better way to explain how to jack up a car word for word. i hope i am not insulting your intelligence by doing this. i am probably making myself look rather dumb by doing all those crappy diagrams with all those stupid keyboard characters. i really wish i had a digital camera....it would be soooo much easier. BTW, all these instructions are implying that you are gonna do one side at a time. to do both sides at once, well, lets not get into that. it would take twice as many words and a bunch more stupid looking digrams.

i want to delete this post: it was a double.

yes, i know how speed ratings work. i also know that the turanza LS-T should never have been put on my LS if the "T" in LS-T actually does represent the speed rating. the minimum recommended speed rating for a non winter tire is "H" (131 mph). what kind of tire shop would allow this to happen?? and can someone answer this question with just a simple "yes" or "no": does the "T" in LS-T represent the speed rating of this model tire? i am 99.99% sure this is true just making absolute sure. once again: answer "yes" if the "T" DOES represent the rating -or- "no" if it DOES NOT. i'm not trying to be mean or rude but this is the best way to avoid confusion: get a strait answer.

99, where did u get all these helpful PDFs? u seem to have one for every issue on the LS.

curb weight: weight of car with no passengers, no gas, no luggage (also known as dry weight i think) yes. a little math to reinforce 1 ton=2,000lbs, 2 tons=4,000lbs, 3 tons=6,000lbs. the LS's curb weight is a bit under 4,000lbs (2 tons). so if you have a 3 ton jack (6,000lbs), you can support the weight of the whole car + 2,000lbs more. you will only be jacking up one side of the car. the angle the car will be on with one side in the air will change the center of gravity to favor the side on the ground. in other words: with only one side jacked, the jack will be supporting LESS than half the weight of the car (2,000 lbs or less) you must jack to the frame. anywhere else is risking damage. i believe you can use the hydraulic floor jack that you have in the same place specified in the owners manual. the "spot" the manual describes is on a part of the frame, which you want. the dent you are talking about is probably from your car being jacked up so many times. is this dent in the same spot the owners manual points out?

90LS400Lexus: 99 was asking if u knew if your PS pump has ever leaked. it is very possible that the sludge you are seeing is a result of a leaking PS pump even if it was fixed years ago. in other words, that sludge could be from years ago and still remaining b/c nobody ever cleaned it. the best and easiest way to see if this is an ancient problem is to clean the existing sludge off with a cloth or something. using a pressure washer might cause you to bust seals and get things wet that shouldn't be. if you do end up pressure washing, use care and make sure you know what you are doing.

good question. im curious to find out too.

yes, the 1UZ-FE engine is built like a tank. i read somewhere that the 1UZ-FE engine has been known to handle 2,600 HP!! any engine that can produce and handle that kind of pony power that wasn't designed specifically for that purpose is amazing. my 94 currently has 166k on it and expect to see that number double with me as the owner.

i actually misread the lettering my turanzas many times and thought their speed rating was "V" (149 mph). i have taken my car up to 145 mph thinking that i was "safe" because my tires could handle that kind of speed :whistles: . i realized a few nights ago that i might be mistaken so i checked again: turanza LS-T!!! the "T" speed rating is rated at 118 mph :o !! right?? i am 99% sure that the LS-T is a "T" rated tire hence "LS-T". if such is true, im the biggest mental giant who ever lived!! really tho, i can't believe "T" rated tires held together at 145 mph and didn't just disintegrate from so much rotational force! anyway, i am still really really happy with my tires even tho the model i have limits the fun i can have on a stretch of deserted highway

to clear this up totally: "overdrive" is actually your 4th gear. when the O/D button is out, overdrive is "off" (the O/D OFF light is illuminated in the guage cluster) and this keeps your tranny from shifting into the 4th gear. the 2 most common reasons to turn O/D off is like blake said:when towing a trailer or driving up a steep hill. if you are doing either of these 2 things, it is possible that you may cause your tanny to repeatedly shift from 4th to 3rd, 3rd to 4th and so on. this is also known as "gear hunting". this will cause wear and tear on your tranny and should be avoided by turning O/D off. reasons why your car should be left IN O/D (with the button IN and NO LIGHT in the dash): since you are allowing your car to shift into the 4th gear, your RPMs will be lower resulting in less fuel consumption, you will have a cooler running engine, you will have a higher top speed b/c third gear can only go so fast w/out redlining, and less noise in the cabin (an engines sound gets louder as RPMs increase). about "more power": it may appear that you have more power with O/D off because the RPMs will be higher and your car will speed up quicker because of it. the bottom line leave you car IN overdrive unless you are towing a trailer, driving up a steep hill, or you are noticing that your car is "gear hunting".

and replace them with.....?

i am very happy with my bridgestone turanzas. the spare in my car is probably the oem tire that came on my car and its a michelin something or other. i had a giant bult go through my left rear tire sideways that has ruined my tire and can not be patched. i put the spare (michelin) tire as a permanent and the damaged bridgestone as a spare. the michelin seems to be evenly matched to the bridgestones.

woa 99, 60 mph in 2nd gear is topped?? maybe they put a 5spd auto in the 99 models but my 94 is a 4 spd auto. top speed in 1st gear is 50mph so 2nd gear is WAY higher than your car.

i dunno, its a theory i am yet to test.

well blake, that right there is a big difference between me and u. i've been pulled over b/c i look like im 12!! true story

yes there have been posts about this issue. when the engine is cold it stays in first gear all the way up to 25mph just like you said. try going just a little faster and let it shift to 2nd and then slow down to 25 or so.

i had this happen to me when i drove from NC to CA. i noticed that every time it happened, the cruise control was on and operating. it only happened like this: for example i was cruisin somewhere in arizona on I-40 at like 79mph and this crappy CRX comes up in the fast lane with a bunch of dumb lookin teenagers and the driver thought he was hot sh*t. i had to show him who's boss! with cruise still on and engaged, i manually put my foot on the gas and accelerated without ever turning cruise main off or hitting cancel. as i got past 100 mph, i think the cruise light blinked (maybe) and went off. after reaming this CRX a new assh*le, i dropped my speed back down to a legal speed and tried to turn cruise on. i pressed and pressed and it did not come on. i did the same thing that u said u did and i pulled over, shut the car off, restarted it and it worked again. this probably happened to me about 7 times in my 2500 mile drive but only when speeding up manually. i also thought as i was going that the cruise turns itself off at a certain high speed. i proved this wrong buy turning cruise main on and setting the cruise at 135 mph. one reason that i just thought of and have yet to test is when cruise is on and engaged, and you accelerate past the set speed (no matter how much past it you go) and maintain the speed manually, cruise will only stay on for a few seconds and turn itself off, but only if above the set speed. i hope this helps in some way. if i confused you, tell me and i will clear it up.

this whole topic has gotten really great!! i LMAO when i read a post about how their member number was their birth year!! how ironic! grandpa: im confused... how did u fool 93? i know how V-Tech works but thats because i have a friend with a riced out honda prelude with the H22 in it (2.2 litre 4 cyl) which is a V-Tech and i asked him to explain to me. i know that its a DOHC (Dual Over Head Cam) meaning it has 2 cams and 4 valves per cylinder. mostly all 4 cylinder cars are DOHC but not all. anyway, he said that like with his V-Tech controller, he can have just 1 cam going and then turn them both on and it takes off like a rocket ship (i know, i've driven his car and almost sh*t my pants!!). i think he also said that one cam is larger than the other... i forgot some of it, he explained this months ago. 93: cool :P! im 17 too and maybe we can hang out sometime when u come to NC state. that is just in downtown and i go there a lot to get pizza from a great joint called "I Love NY Pizza".