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Everything posted by 1UZ-FE

  1. its a cleaner look for sure but i think the color is a bit too bright. also just like steviej said, some of the smilies are not loading the images: :whistles: :snoooorrrtttt: :chairshot: :cries: these are the ones that do not show a preview.
  2. good to hear that your problem is finally resolved (mostly). the SM should be very open to any comments as long as you are calm about it, like you said. keep us posted!
  3. yep. even a young'n like me can appreciate a completely original, stock, healthy LS, the way it should be. I dont plan on doing anything to my car other than regular maintenance. if you start to modify things, you start to lose the "Lexusness" of your car. just my 2¢
  4. i figured thats what you were trying to explain. i can't help you with that one. the best i can tell you is make sure you keep an eye on the coolant level and keep it topped off. you'll be fine, atleast for now...
  5. where the tranny and engine meet is called a rear main seal. mine is also leaking....but not coolant. i've only heard of/experienced oil leaking from a rear main seal. i dont know if it is possible for coolant to leak from this seal.
  6. sorry but that was more or less just a guess. ummm...i dont really know much about how to test the system/diagnostic. the only questions i can ask are rather basic: 1. does the trac system perform a self test when you first turn the car on? (trac & trac off bulbs light for a few seconds)(make sure all your warning bulbs light up) 2. are any of your check engine/trac off/trac lights on/blinking while driving? (make sure all your warning bulbs light up) 3. does the trac system function properly when you break traction? i think thats about all i got....maybe someone else could answer your questions better.
  7. Great point and well said!!
  8. oops! double post! :whistles: delete me mods! (Just the post, not the member!)
  9. does your car have trac? I believe that the trac computer/module thingy is either right on top of the throttle body, or right next to it. maybe there is something not right with your trac system?? not too sure
  10. well first off, it may be hard for some of you to believe, but even a 17 yr old like myself can vouch for the fact that "hot roding" is not the brightest idea. I used to do this too, but unlike just about every other teen driver, i grew out of it fast. I now baby my 94 with 170k+ on the clock b/c i want her to last a long time with limited repairs. Even though I ignore the urges that sometimes pop into my head, I can still understand from a teenager's standpoint why you do it. I also know that nobody can talk you out of still doing it. So, with that being said, i will do what i can to help you propel yourself to 60 a little quicker. First: the quote above--the LS has a gated transmission and will not let you rev any higher than 2k. I am not sure if this can be changed and what controls this. If your LS revved any higher than 2k, that would mean that your tranny is slipping (bad) and you would have many other issues. About performance in general: you know the drill right? clean your throttle body, plug & wires, dist cap/rotor, air filter, etc.
  11. wow i wish i was a moderator so i could move this myself. firstlexus: you want to post in the ES Forum, not the LS Forum.
  12. Good point and what a great idea!! Grab them by the balls and tell them you are done with their games. Nothing will get a dealer's attention (which cares about CSI) like releasing documents which show them in a bad light to the public. You may even consider notifying the local news about your ordeal and letting them make a story about it (or atleast threaten to do so). Great point Matt! Good luck Mike
  13. a member here (lexls) has devoted many hours to making a really great website. the website is http://www.lexls.com and it has many tutorials. one of them is how to reset your airbag light.
  14. well incase anyone is still confused: well i'm not sure about the ES and different gens, but in my 94 LS and the whole gen I LS that even though we have 4 wheel disk brakes, the rear rotors have a drum inside of them that the e-brake/parking brake uses. if you don't quite get it, here it is a little less confusing: when pressing the brake pedal during normal driving, braking force is applied to the rear wheels via brake pad to disk (rotor) contact. when you pull your e-brake/parking break when parking and such, braking force is applied to the rear wheels via brake shoe to drum contact. so, you have 3 different ways to brake your car: 2 sets of disk and 1 set of drum.
  15. well its been a while since i've been active on the greatest forum ever. so im just gonna fill u guys in on whats happened lately. over a period of about a month, i've learned that my car is going to need many repairs. with no job, no money, and a car payment, thats not gonna be easy about a month ago, i went to the shop my car was serviced at before i bought it. these repairs were performed by Triangle Imports and paid for by the private dealer i bought my car from. anyway, the reciept said that one of the things they did is replaced my PS pump, which had been making quite a bit of noise for a while. i figured they put in a faulty pump and they would have to replace it under warranty. this is where the bad news starts and its all downhill from here. they brought me into the shop and showed me 2 problems. the first: my PS pump was making noise b/c it was low on fluid...but why was it low on fluid??--it's leaking from my steering rack! thats ~$2300. the second problem: my rear main seal needs to be replaced. my brother had this done on his Jeep Grand Cherokee and it set him back about $450. i wanted a second opinion on these so i brought my car to a highly trusted shop i have used many times. they confirmed both problems. so in just one day my total for repairs that i need is ~$2700. i have known about the second issue since day 1 of owning my car. when i first bought my car, i noticed a creaking noise coming from the front suspension. this only happened *sometimes* when turning the wheel atleast 1 revolution at speeds below 5 mph, such as pulling in a parking spot. this was identified early by a lexus tech as upper conrol arms. since January of this year, it has gotten progressively worse and creaks *every time* i park, turn into a driveway, or even making a 90 degree turn onto a road. obviously, this needs to be taken care of pretty soon. i dont know exactly how much this will cost but i estimate somewhere around $700. now my total is around $3400. lastly, i had a brand new set of Yokahamas that were stored away until my Turanzas wore out. i swear my set Turanzas must be magnetic b/c i have picked up way too many nails for it to just be luck. one of my friends gave me $70 for helping him a little so i decided to mount my Yokahamas and trash my "holy" Turanzas. during my lengthy stay at Merchants Tire, more bad news. the Turnaza that was on the left front was "feathered", meaning i need an alignment. after borrowing $70 more to pay for the alignment, i was told by the mechanic that did my alignment to come outside and look at something. he pulls into the parking lot and goes 1-2 mph and taps the brake very quickly. as he does this, he tells me look at the front wheels, which seem to be shifting back and forth as he plays with the brake pedal. once my cars back up on the lift, he points out that a bushing is worn out, located where the lower control arm meets the frame. since the bushing itself cannot be replaced, the whole lower control arm must be replaced - that job is another $750. and now my total is up to ~$4200. all in all, this month i spent about $150 to find out i need to magically come up with over $4000. there are many other things that need to be fixed but these are the major problems. i still need a drivers door handle to replace my cracking one, spark plug wires, something to fix the ever widening tearing leather on my drivers seat, front pads and rotors, and a tranny flush/refill. i cant wait till sh*t starts breaking and i have no choice but to fix it.....but with what money?? anyway, please comment if you like and suggestions are appreciated too.
  16. ok i will check those. my main question is though, if i don't find that any of those are present, what are some other possibilities other than head gasket? thanks SRK and agent99 for the responses.
  17. well i found this older post while trying to find an answer to something i noticed today. I am getting white smoke from the tail pipes. It is most noticeable at idle. When i rev the engine up, it is difficult to see the smoke at all. The smoke has a sweet smell and if Mr_Ferrari is right, it is coolant. My question is: Is it definately a blown head gasket, a cracked cylinder head, or a cracked block? or could it be other things? This would be very bad news for me if this is the case. I already know i need a steering rack and a rear main seal, if I need a head gasket or any of the other 2 things mentioned above, it might be good bye to my lexie :( . someone please tell me that there are other possibilties and cheap ways to determine these. Thanks in advance for any input. PS incase you forgot to look at my signature: 94 170K
  18. yep, exactly TMaxxTim! that is the SAME EXACT problem i had on my 94. i swore it was the altenator but my mech told me otherwise. he tested the battery and sure enough it had 2 bad cells. bought a new battery and its good as new. thank god it was a $60 repair cost rather than a ~$1000 or whatever it is for a new alternator!! the battery is your best bet ;)
  19. exactly. i bought my 94 in january of this year and was flippin through the owners manual about 2 months ago and found the page explaining the security code. i had disconnected my battery before and didn't have any problems. apparantly, the previous owner never bothered (or knew) to put one in. Texas: if you have an owners manual, it fully explains all this. If you dont, you can PM me or just say in this thread you need more info and i would have no problem explaining.
  20. Indeed!! I have used you site many times and have already sucessfully used your How to remove the instrument cluster / combination meter tutorial, your How to remove the yellow fog glass tutorial, How to turn off the air bag light / Clearing diagnostic code 41 tutorial, and your How to clean the throttle body tutorials. I also plan on using your front brake pad and rotor replacement tutorials when the time comes. Many thanks!! You have saved me so much time and money! Thank You
  21. well i dont have any hard or actual proof i can present. after i figured out what the button did, i went to work one day (johnson lexus) and asked my friend joey, a tech, if i was right. he wanted to know the same thing silver did.....where did i read it? after finally convincing him that i just figured it out he said "well damn, you got it."
  22. sorry but no....i am just blessed with a very mechanical mind and simply figured it out. a little experimenting and looking at what everything does and how it works and everything. sorry :(
  23. To clarify: This button is my favorite button to press. This is not the "power" button. The power button is located on the console next to the shifter. This other button under the gas pedal is linked to the transmission. It is depressed by the underside of the gas pedal. If you have never had this button click down while driving then you have never truly floored your car. There are 2 types of flooring the LS. The first type is when u "think" it is to the floor. This happens when you push the gas pedal down until it comes in contact with this button, but does not push it in. This is where the second type of flooring comes into play. If you push the pedal down just a little harder it will depress this button and will kind of "click" down. When this button is pushed it will simply have the tranny downshift to the lowest possible gear without red-lining your engine. The best way for you to try this is to drive at about 25-30mph and just STOMP on the gas, that way you'll be sure the button is pressed. The tranny will downshift all the way down to first gear resulting in a bit of a jerk (which will NOT cause any damage) and you will lunge forward with massive acceleration all the way up to 50mph (top speed for first gear). You will also notice if you go 25-30mph and don't push hard enough to press the button, the tranny will only downshift to second gear, resulting in slower acceleration. So the short of it is that this button is only for downshifting as low as you can when you really want to haul a$$. VB: this button is in no way linked to throttle linkage. only the transmission. to see for yourself: with your engine off, open your hood and peek out of the door so that you can see the throttle linkage under the hood. then push the gas to the floor slowly. the linkage will not move any farther when the button is clicked. full throttle is applied without clicking this button, this just sends a signal to the transmission to downshift even lower. I hope this clears everything up.
  24. sounds like a winner!! just make sure to follow through with the pre-purchase inspection. I did that on my car and they found things i never even thought to look at and couldn't (knowlegde limited). sure does sound like one hell of a deal though. good luck!
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