paulo57509

I just did the dilution method....suck out what's in the reservoir, refill it, start the engine and turn the steering whell lock to lock a few times, stop the engine......repeat. Using an Excel spreadsheet calculator (I found at http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/) I figured after doing the suck/refill about 10 times, about 90% of the fluid is now "new". It took about an hour, but was far less messy than removing the return hose and trying to pour fresh fluid into the reservoir at the same time. Using an oil bottle pump is definitely better than using a baster.

I would also add that high octane fuel doesn't burn hotter than low octane fuel.

As long as the fluid level is between the hot and cold marks on the stick, you're OK, provided the fluid is at operating temperature. When checking the fluid level immediately after refilling the transmission and before you drive off, it's a good idea to step on the brake and shift the transmission into each gear for a short moment. This is to make sure that all the fluid passageways are filled with fluid that may have partially emptied when the pan was drained. When refilling any automatic transmission, my SOP is to refill the transmission until the fluid is at the low level. I then take it for a test drive (5-10 miles of in town driving) to get the fluid up to operationg temperature. I then check and refill to the correct level. BTW, long periods of freeway driving can heat the fluid enough to where it will read higher than normal (due to fluid expansion).

I think those shark-fin antennas look like crap. Just take a look at any BMW that has one and you'll get the idea. Just my opinion.

The temp gauge on my '98 LS400 runs at a steady 2/5 up from cold....right on the line. I think you're fine.

You noticed this right after you had the tires replaced? Was the noise there before the tire replacement? Anyway, you can try putting some masking tape over the door seams and moonroof (one door at a time) and test drive it in an attempt to isolate where the noise is coming from; process of elimination. Another thought: You say the noise comes on at 45mph. I'm not wondering if the fan clutch is frozen (or the thermo mechanism is malfunctioning) and what you hear is the fan cutting the air at the RPM that correspondes to 45mph? Note the RPM the engine is turning at at 45mph (say in D-range). Drive around in a lower gear (3rd or 2nd) and see if the noise appears at a slower speed but near the same RPM as it did when in D-range.

Not quite correct. If you own a 1st Gen LS, you are out of luck on the online owners manual. Not available on the website. My reply was directed to the OP who owns an '04 LS430. Too bad that Lexus had chosen to excluded G1 owners.

The wiper blade link returns an Amazon window that reads, "no parts available, etc....." With regards to the antenna links, I'd pass on the second link which is for a Hirschmann. I had installed two of these exact same model antennas (AUTA-2040) in the past few years on my Acura Legend and they both resulted in poor radio reception. And the retract mechanism didn't last very long either, even with regular cleaning of the mast. The one for $14 couldn't be any worse than the $35 Hirschmann, IMO.

You can register for free at www.lexus.com and get access to an owner's manual as a .pdf file.

Stick with the viscosity recommendation in the owner's manual. Any API approved oil (conventional or synthetic) will do fine if you're following the recommended oil change interval. I use Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 and a Super-Tech (Wal-Mart) filter and follow the recommended 5k mile oil change interval. This is not a recommendation for Pennzoil or Super-Tech; it's just what I've chosen to use. The link below is a good place to spend a few hours. Lots of interesting reading and worth the time spent. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/ BTW, Amsoil is good stuff. I can't recall reading any negative press about their products.

How about wiring the power to the sunroof into the power window buss? The speed control works that way for safety I believe. Do any of your cars cruise controls work your prefered way? I got another; directional rims, you cant rotate the tires but one way. I have no desire to hack into the wiring. The intent of this thread is to nit-pick design, etc. But thanks for the recommendation. GM, Ford, Acura/Honda, Chrysler cruise controls all operate the way I'd prefer.

1. The one thing I cannot stand is the way the cruise control operates. I hate the way you always have to reset the set speed when the car slows below a certain speed or you come to a stop. It would be nice to be able to just hit resume. This isn't just a Lexus thing. It's a Toyota thing. My '87 Camry worked the same way. 2. How come the power windows remain operable after you turn the ignition off (for a short time or open the door), but power to the sunroof is cut off immediately? If you're going to flash a reminder on the dash that the sunroof is open after I shut down, why not keep the sunroof powered up like the windows?

No real modifications are necessary to the existing radio if you use a satellite reciever with an FM transmitter. Just the antenna (I just stick it on the roof in reach from the driver's side window) and the power (cigarette lighter) for the receiver. I use a suction cup mount and stick it to the windshield below the rear view mirror. This way, I can use the receiver in different vehicles and I can quickly take it down and stow it in the glove box, console or trunk when parked. If you want a "factory" installed look, that's something I can't help you with.

Leak diagnosis is difficult if you don't have visual access. Try cleaning the suspected area really well. Then try to locate the leak. Use an inspection mirror if you need to see around and under components. I sometimes use a UV dye to locate leaks. You pour in a small amount of dye, run the device and using a black light, you can easily follow the trace of UV dye back to the source of the leak. I've used this technique for engine oil and power steering leaks. I would caution you when adding UV dye power steering system, though. The last time I did this to my GM car, the dye really didn't mix into the PS fluid very well; it separated and did not remain mixed. It might have been just the composition of GM spec'ed PS fluid. No detrimental effects have been noted, however.

Dirty air filter? Have you been filling up at another station? Different brands of gasoline? Perhaps the fuel has had a change in formulation....more methanol?

+1 Try refilling at another station the next couple of times and check your mileage.

Another thought.....If it has air adjustable suspension I'd pass on it. From reading different Lexus forums, air suspension is something to avoid. Very costly to repair when the shocks start leaking.

I'm not an LS expert, but I picked up a '98 LS with 37.5 k miles on it for $19.5k (in line with KBB and NADA...and it was about all I wanted to spend on another car anyway). All scheduled maintenance performed, one-owner lease return. A solid 9 if not a 10. I really wasn't on the market for a Lexus, but after a test drive, I drove it home. Yes, it does look like the PS pump is weeping. I haven't taken the engine cover off to really look yet. The car you're interested in sounds like a decent deal. Unless it has been in a wreck or drives funky. Have you compared the asking price off of KBB and NADA guide? An in-person look and test drive is always the acid test.

I'm no emissions expert. That said, I'll take a stab at it. High NOx indicates high combustion chamber temps. High combustion chamber temps indicate a lean condition or an EGR system that isn't working, plugged, etc. However, the HC reading is also high which would indicate a rich condition or the cat is weak. I'm not familiar with GA emission tests.....what is a 25/25 test? In CA they test at 15mph and 25mph. I'm sure that the test was done using a five gas analyser. Please post all the HC, NOx, CO, CO2 and O2 numbers at all the various test conditions, if possible. Usually, you need to look at the entire picture, not just the snap shot when diagnosing emission test results. Also, did the tech doing the test get the engine good and hot before testing? I've attached a couple of tech articles regarding emissions, etc. emissions_analysis.pdf combustion_chemistry.pdf

Just to close the loop on the topic (which I feel should be done all the time for all tech questions).... AT dry fill capacity is 8.9 US quarts (page PP-33 of repair manual).

Thanks for the info

I was wondering if anyone can tell me what the total fluid capacity of the transmission is for a 1998 LS. I haven't yet received my OEM service manuals in the mail yet. Thanks - Paul

I just recently ordered a 1-month subscription, but I can't use the site. After logging in, the "home" page appears and then I immediately get redirected to a window telling me that I need to install Acrobat Reader (I already have a full version of Acrobat installed). This window doesn't have an option for by-passing this installation. Once this window opens, you can't go back to the home page without getting redirected. Timing the STOP button on the browser works, but eventually I get redirected back to the Acrobat Reader install window. Okay, I'll just install Acrobat Reader, no big deal. Clicking on the link provided directs me to an Adobe web page. The Install Acrobat Reader check box is grayed out (unavailable). Going directly to Adobe to install the Reader yields the same results. I've contacted the web site support and haven't heard back. At this point, this web site is pretty useless, IMO. :chairshot: I could have used the $50 to buy a case of ATF, etc. We'll see if the issue gets resolved and I'll post back.